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Another DIY LED fixture


M@rine_lover

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  • 2 weeks later...
M@rine_lover

Picture taken under this LED lighting...due to lousy camera and phototaking skill, I'm not able to get actual colour of the corals which is richer than this... :o !

 

Acan having shrimp dinner with Water melon chalice accompany beside.

 

AcanChalice.jpg

 

Candy

Candy.jpg

 

Zoa

DSC02162.jpg

 

Birdnest

DSC02176.jpg

 

My lovely chilli crab....

Crab1.jpg

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Did you add heatsinks in the end?

 

Nope...as the temperature is still fall within the LED spec :D !

 

im currious where you got the UV leds so cheap. thanks

 

Bought online..Kaidomain.com.

 

It's a low intensity UV-A LED :P !

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  • 2 weeks later...

Super Sunnie and Watermelon Chalice under 35 LEDs lighting.

 

Super Sunnie

SS1.jpg

 

Close shot

SS6.jpg

 

Monti recovered from brown slowly to original ....blue colour!

b_Monti.jpg

 

 

Watermelon Chalice

Chalice.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Edison uses Cree dies in some but not all of their products. The series of LEDs that Nanocustoms is using right now is using the same Cree die as the XR-E series, but isn't quite as high output as a Q4/Q5/R2. The UV LEDs that they offer are not Crees, and are typically only 1W models unfortunately (there are a few 3W versions). The description on the website is generic to the LED strips, and not specific to the UV option.

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  • 2 months later...

X'mas coming.....And it's time to upgrading :lol: !

 

Ok..I'm currently look into upgrading the 6 pcs of SSC P4 Pure White to SSC P7 Pure White in my LED lighting.

 

And I'm expecting to increase 45w and Luminous Flux by 4200ml or more.

 

SSC P7 Pure White C bin

Watt : 12W,

Forward Current : 2.8A

Forward Voltage : 3.6~4.2V

Luminous Flux : 700~800ml,

 

Here is my layout. The yellow box with P7 labelled are those that I will change from P4 to P7.

I may add Fin heatsink on top of my current Aluminum plate if the temperature increase till out of the manufacturer spec :happy: .

 

JAWz Version 2.

 

JAWzV2.jpg

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I'll almost guarantee that you will need to add more for heatsinking. That's a pretty healthy increase in wattage. Why not go with the Cree MC-E? As you can wire that one in series, it make driver selection easier. Same output near enough. Damn near the same LED (uses same dies).

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I'll almost guarantee that you will need to add more for heatsinking. That's a pretty healthy increase in wattage. Why not go with the Cree MC-E? As you can wire that one in series, it make driver selection easier. Same output near enough. Damn near the same LED (uses same dies).

 

As CREE MC-E and SSC P7 is using the same die so price really important now -_- . I choose P7 b'cos I'm able to get it at a cheaper price in my country. I have couple of ELN-60-27 Meanwell PS spare so will be using it to connect 6 in a series :happy: .

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M@rine_lover ... do you have a link to where you got the Adhesive tape for Star MCB, Bond-Ply? Why did you use this instead of metal Screws? Do they hold up with the heat? Do they transfer heat to the aluminum easily?

 

Sorry for so many questions. Thanks for you time and answers.

Billy

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M@rine_lover ... do you have a link to where you got the Adhesive tape for Star MCB, Bond-Ply? Why did you use this instead of metal Screws? Do they hold up with the heat? Do they transfer heat to the aluminum easily?

 

Sorry for so many questions. Thanks for you time and answers.

Billy

 

Hi Billy,

 

Bond-Ply 100 is a thermally conductive and electrically isolating, pressure sensitive adhesive material that facilitates the decoupling of materials with mismatched thermal coefficients of expansion. The double-sided adhesive coating with its high bond strength that immediately bonds to the target surface, together with excellent wet-out and high thermal performance, make this material ideally suited to use as a replacement for heat-cure adhesive and screw- or clip-mounting solutions

 

You can get it from rapidonline

 

IMHO, It's a very good product and I will never go back to screw again when come to heatsinking project :lol::lol::lol: !

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  • 3 weeks later...

ooh...I have totally forgotten the color temp shift more towards BLV10K and lower if I replaced the 6x 3W to 12W LEDs :o ! Luckily, my friend has reminded me before I make this mistake :huh: .

 

My immediate remedy is to order additional 5x 3 Cree XPE royal blue in one round board from cutter and expect to bring the color temp close to 12~14kk which is 40/60 configuration ratio of White again Blue :lol: .

 

Currently, I'm still waiting for the 5 pieces of Cree XPE to be delivered :D .

 

 

XPE.jpg

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I love your idea for a heatsink. I might do something like that as well and add a thermal fuse in line with the led`s to help in the event that one of my fans cut out.I was also thinking about using a couple of T.E coolers to help cool an aluminium stock heat sink. Nothing wrong with redundancy. I use the same thermal fluke meter at work for alot of my evaluations and it is verry accurate. Your fixture might be the best and cleanest fixture that I have seen so far. You are an LED god lol Great work!!!!!

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I love your idea for a heatsink. I might do something like that as well and add a thermal fuse in line with the led`s to help in the event that one of my fans cut out.I was also thinking about using a couple of T.E coolers to help cool an aluminium stock heat sink. Nothing wrong with redundancy. I use the same thermal fluke meter at work for alot of my evaluations and it is verry accurate. Your fixture might be the best and cleanest fixture that I have seen so far. You are an LED god lol Great work!!!!!

 

Thanks for your kind words :bowdown: !

 

Has anyone seen these high power LEDs? The company has 20, 30 and 50 watts.

 

http://www.hyledchina.com/High-Power-LED/5...-Power-LED.html

 

No...I have never use china made LED before :ninja: !

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