dylan1464 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Solana 34 "ATO" bottles - and I use the term loosely - WTF?? Has anybody figured out a mod that might make them actually function? lol throw them out and get a ATO jk....im wondering the same thing Quote Link to comment
Gort Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 lol throw them out and get a ATO jk....im wondering the same thing A local pal just told me about one he got from autotopoff.com - he like his Quote Link to comment
d'Espresso Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 A local pal just told me about one he got from autotopoff.com - he like his I got mine from autotopoff.com and have for over almost 2 years and still work like a charm! Quote Link to comment
Gort Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 I got mine from autotopoff.com and have for over almost 2 years and still work like a charm! Do you happen to have a photo of this marvel as-installed on your Solana? Quote Link to comment
qwuintus Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Hey guys, did you make some ones in the 2nd chamber wall so the water level could rise for a fuge conversion? Quote Link to comment
j2me5ku Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Has anyone tried to T off their return to power a reactor. I'm still trying to set up my TLF reactor with my biopellets, but I'm having a heck of a time figuring out how to set it all up without having to change what I already have. have you given this a try? i've considered doing this when i buy a new return pump. since my BRS is mounted on my stand, the only problem i can imagine is not enough water pressure to get the water back into my tank. is my logic flawed? could buying a pump with a higher GPH rate help with this problem? Quote Link to comment
Gort Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I'm testing a kludged-ATO-bottle fix - I removed the two caps with the small drip holes and just installed them as-is. When the level in the return-pump chamber drops below the neck of the bottles - ATO water can flow down. The desired tank level is just below that platform anyhow. I may also try enlarging the holes in the screw-caps - we shall see ... Quote Link to comment
ermartin Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I'm testing a kludged-ATO-bottle fix - I removed the two caps with the small drip holes and just installed them as-is. When the level in the return-pump chamber drops below the neck of the bottles - ATO water can flow down. The desired tank level is just below that platform anyhow. I may also try enlarging the holes in the screw-caps - we shall see ... That's what i did just enlarged the holes. I have since just removed them as my skimmer needs a higher water level. and they were about useless anyways.. As i have 5 tanks i need to top them all off anyways so its just become a twice weekly activity for me Quote Link to comment
bananahands Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I'm testing a kludged-ATO-bottle fix - I removed the two caps with the small drip holes and just installed them as-is. When the level in the return-pump chamber drops below the neck of the bottles - ATO water can flow down. The desired tank level is just below that platform anyhow. I may also try enlarging the holes in the screw-caps - we shall see ... Trust me dude, come summer, you'll wish you had a "real" ATO. haha. Quote Link to comment
Gort Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Trust me dude, come summer, you'll wish you had a "real" ATO. haha. You're probably right about that - it already goes thru those bottles in a couple of days. Quote Link to comment
Genj Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 I'm not at my tank right now, but I was wondering how easy it is to remove the stock pump for cleaning. Last time I was back there I was pulling on the hose, thinking it was tension fit over a standard nipple, but it didn't budge. Quote Link to comment
Gort Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 I'm not at my tank right now, but I was wondering how easy it is to remove the stock pump for cleaning. Last time I was back there I was pulling on the hose, thinking it was tension fit over a standard nipple, but it didn't budge. Mine was pre-assembled, but I just looked at the manual.At the upper end of the return pump hose is the "return elbow" which looks like it's serrated to hold the tubing. This L-shaped elbow is inserted into the receptacle that routes thru the front wall of that chamber to the return "Y" in the display tank... Quote Link to comment
danilew Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 You can add me to the 34g list (up and running) and the 25g list (on it's way to my door). Quote Link to comment
adambreakey Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 You also can add me -- here is my 34g build thread Adam Quote Link to comment
pyrrhusmj Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 Hi all. I'm new to NANO-REEF but have been on my local MAS sites and RC for a few years. Been into SW and reefing since the mid 80's (minus a 10 year stone in law school and a few years after). I currently have a 95g mixed reef I am tearing down to reclaim real-estate (the wife) and I wanted an AIO for simplicity, so I bought the Solana since they look great and have a good price. Just started the pump with about 20 pounds of LR out of my DT, a couple gallons of water from the DT, and some new sand. Hopefully it won't take long to cycle. I do have a couple of questions though: 1. Is anyone running their Solana with a profilux? I am keeping my profilux when I sell my 95g and have some questions where to mount things such as the ATO. 2. Does anyone think that 2 Tunze NANO stream 6055's would be too much flow? and 3. Can anyone tell m where they mount their probes? I have a probe holder in my current sump, but I don't think it will work in my Solana. Thanks in advance everyone! Michael Quote Link to comment
pyrrhusmj Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Ok, no answers to my first questions yet, but I did figure out where to put the probes from some of the posts on here. Drill some larger holes in the ATO section, so all is good for that. Question 2, I am not even close to ready to div into, I guess it will be a t&e thing for me. One thing that is really baffling me so far ( and I know the answer must be right in front of my nose) is the float switch for my ATO. It is hooked to the profilux, but is a fairly standard float switch. Does anyone have any pictures of where and how they mounted their float switches? I haven't run across that thread yet in my searches. Any help would be appreciated! Michael Quote Link to comment
pyrrhusmj Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 I gotta to know how you made it this could be my snail solution! I so want this also. My tear down tank is eurobraced and he only jumper I had was one of my clowns when he made it into the sump somehow. Michael Quote Link to comment
j2me5ku Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 (edited) Ok, no answers to my first questions yet, but I did figure out where to put the probes from some of the posts on here. Drill some larger holes in the ATO section, so all is good for that. Question 2, I am not even close to ready to div into, I guess it will be a t&e thing for me. One thing that is really baffling me so far ( and I know the answer must be right in front of my nose) is the float switch for my ATO. It is hooked to the profilux, but is a fairly standard float switch. Does anyone have any pictures of where and how they mounted their float switches? I haven't run across that thread yet in my searches. Any help would be appreciated! Michael like this? the middle picture *edit: courtesy of inTank Edited March 2, 2011 by j2me5ku Quote Link to comment
pyrrhusmj Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 like this? the middle picture *edit: courtesy of inTank Thanks j2me5ku, that helps. I also noticed that the float will fit through the overflow bottle holes. Either way, I may be doing some kind of rigging. Michael Quote Link to comment
lpsouth1978 Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Does anyone know if the bottom glass of the solana is tempered? Quote Link to comment
DAHNIC561 Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 (edited) Does anyone know if the bottom glass of the solana is tempered? Google is your friend... http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f76/sola...led-128432.html Edited March 4, 2011 by DAHNIC561 Quote Link to comment
lpsouth1978 Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 Google is your friend... http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f76/sola...led-128432.html Thanks DAHNIC, that link had some great information, but still no definite answer on whether the bottom glass is tempered. That solana was drilled in the back panel. I sent an email to Current USA, we will see if they get back to me. I will keep you all posted. Quote Link to comment
lpsouth1978 Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 I heard back from Current USA and this was thier response. Quote: "The glass on the bottom of the Solana is not tempered so it is possible to be drilled." Quote Link to comment
jcieutat Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 In my Solana, I have a MP10ES and a Tunze 6015. I am running the MP10ES on around 40%. Do you think if I crank the MP10ES up to 90 - 100%, I could eliminate the Tunze? I am swapping out the stock return pump with a MJ1200 next week. I just want to eliminate as much equipment in the tank viewing area as possible. I have the MP10ES on the right side of the tank but would like to place it on the chamber 3 wall. Quote Link to comment
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