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Best circular saw blade for cutting acrylic?


Waterproof

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They are terrible. You can tell by the price. They are made for plywood and will only melt the plastic giving you a pretty ugly cut. Unless this is a one time job and you don't care. A better blade is an 84 tooth (or around) carbide tip, may be hard to find for a skil saw.

 

Best and cheap often don't mix.

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Has anyone tried one of the 140-150 tooth blades for cutting acrylic, plexi, lexan? Here's an example:

 

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=prod...&lpage=none

 

What the best (cheap) bet for cutting plastics?

 

Hello,

 

Let me first start off by saying that I have worked in retail at both Home Depot and Lowe's. Unfortunately the only way to cut it is using a calibrated scoring tool. Usually the stores employee score and break it, just like you would with glass. Unlike class, it takes more than one score, usually taking about ten or more. It does take a certain degree of skill to do so to get an accurate cut, the process cannot be rushed. Do not attempt to use a table/miter saw blade, it would more than likely end up fracturing your plastic, if not melting it. If you dont mind me asking, what are you trying to make?

 

By the way, only 1/4 inch and under thickness can be cut, depends on the employee. Even 1/4 can somtimes be turned away. But you can bring in your pieces to be cut for a nominal fee per cut.

Edited by driftsaru
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Hello,

 

Let me first start off by saying that I have worked in retail at both Home Depot and Lowe's. Unfortunately the only way to cut it is using a calibrated scoring tool. Usually the stores employee score and break it, just like you would with glass. Unlike class, it takes more than one score, usually taking about ten or more. It does take a certain degree of skill to do so to get an accurate cut, the process cannot be rushed. Do not attempt to use a table/miter saw blade, it would more than likely end up fracturing your plastic, if not melting it. If you dont mind me asking, what are you trying to make?

 

By the way, only 1/4 inch and under thickness can be cut, depends on the employee. Even 1/4 can somtimes be turned away. But you can bring in your pieces to be cut for a nominal fee per cut.

 

Sorry to say but you are wrong.

 

You can easily cut acrylic with a table saw, miter saw, band saw, and router. I own a business that makes acrylic equipment for AIO aquariums. You can cut acrylic with a standard low tooth saw blade but it will not be as finished. The best blade is a higher tooth like 84.

 

Scoring acrylic is the worst way to cut it and not accurate. If that is all you have then it will work, but will look like crap.

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thunderfunk

+1

I used a band saw to cut my acrylic, worked very well, im sure my table saw would have done a better job but it really didnt matter

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84T-carb

 

DONE

 

+10000000

 

Cut with the table saw and finish with a router for a perfect edge.

or just a table saw and you will have some swirls.

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I probably already know the answer, but I picked up a circular saw at Sears yesterday and was browsing the blades... I came across a diamond tipped nearly toothless blade that's meant for masonry cutting. The answer I probably already know is that it wouldn't work for acrylic, would it?? Similar to this....

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Waterproof
If you dont mind me asking, what are you trying to make?

Thanks for all the responses. I'm planning to build a hang on tank refugium. For most of my DIY tasks, I don't do a lot of planning. I just kinda wing it. I'll go in the garage, start sketching things out, and get to work. So, I'd like to be able to cut my sheets to whatever size I need.

 

StevieT,

When cutting something like teeth for an overflow, what do you normally use? I tried my dremmel, table saw, and router. I wasn't happy with any of the results. It seems a router would be best. Maybe I was just using the wrong bit.

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Thanks for all the responses. I'm planning to build a hang on tank refugium. For most of my DIY tasks, I don't do a lot of planning. I just kinda wing it. I'll go in the garage, start sketching things out, and get to work. So, I'd like to be able to cut my sheets to whatever size I need.

 

StevieT,

When cutting something like teeth for an overflow, what do you normally use? I tried my dremmel, table saw, and router. I wasn't happy with any of the results. It seems a router would be best. Maybe I was just using the wrong bit.

you could melt them with a soldering iron.....

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I probably already know the answer, but I picked up a circular saw at Sears yesterday and was browsing the blades... I came across a diamond tipped nearly toothless blade that's meant for masonry cutting. The answer I probably already know is that it wouldn't work for acrylic, would it?? Similar to this....

 

would most likely melt the acrylic. diamond/masonary blades grind and not cut.

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Doesn't that leave some ugly edges?

i guess it would..... but you could sand them down.... or something..... or heat up a puddie knife. and then use that. and then clean the edges off....

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I have cut with a tile wet saw "diamond blade" before and it actually works well but it's too messy

Just stick with the table saw IMO

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You don't really need more than 90 tooth. Just make sure they're carbide and you'll be more than fine. Also try to adjust the saw disc to be almost flush with the top of the acrylic you are cutting. Don't get it too high. You will get a nicer cut that way. To finish it, with the crappy score thingy to cut acrylic you can trim its edges as it has a piece to do so and acrylic will not cut your skin then. Then sand it with fine grit to remove any marks from table saw (if any) and finish it if a torch to melt just a little the cut and have a nice shinny finish.

 

So thats a + with Kraylen about the disc :D those should be around $60 tough. At least I find that price locally. probably you can better online depending on the brand. Mine is Ryobi. hope that helps

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make sure if you sand the edges you only sand in one direction at a 45 degree angle. If you sand parallel the solvent will not pull into the joint correctly and will make a weak and leaky joint.

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Waterproof
make sure if you sand the edges you only sand in one direction at a 45 degree angle. If you sand parallel the solvent will not pull into the joint correctly and will make a weak and leaky joint.

Since it's just for a fuge, do I need to sand at all? Is there any benefit other than edge aesthetics?

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Thanks for all the responses. I'm planning to build a hang on tank refugium. For most of my DIY tasks, I don't do a lot of planning. I just kinda wing it. I'll go in the garage, start sketching things out, and get to work. So, I'd like to be able to cut my sheets to whatever size I need.

 

StevieT,

When cutting something like teeth for an overflow, what do you normally use? I tried my dremmel, table saw, and router. I wasn't happy with any of the results. It seems a router would be best. Maybe I was just using the wrong bit.

 

 

I would personally use a small router bit. I use a router table at it makes all the difference, cuts like butter nice and straight. If you wanted smaller slots then the tabe saw would do but you would have to cut the piece vertically to avoid the round blade. This is mostly an aesthetic thing yet can be structural depending the depth of the cut vs the material left over.

 

Since it's just for a fuge, do I need to sand at all? Is there any benefit other than edge aesthetics?

 

Depends on the application. If this is a fuge as you explain that has 4 walls and bascially a tank then the best edge you can provide is recommended. Also if this fuge hold water use only cast acrylic and understand how plastic welding works.

 

see tapplastics.com for a few vids on box making. If this thing does HOLD water research, doing this cheap will spell in failure, but good find on the blade, looks like a one time use thing.

Edited by StevieT
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I probably already know the answer, but I picked up a circular saw at Sears yesterday and was browsing the blades... I came across a diamond tipped nearly toothless blade that's meant for masonry cutting. The answer I probably already know is that it wouldn't work for acrylic, would it?? Similar to this....

 

 

melting-snowman-thumb43430.jpg

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Since it's just for a fuge, do I need to sand at all? Is there any benefit other than edge aesthetics?

 

If you use a router no....If you use a good table saw blade meh, maybe. Just look at the edge and if there are deep groves you need to sand. The main thing is to get completely flat edges because the solvent will not fill holes.

 

You will most likely have a few pin holes on your first try. Just run another quick pass of solvent over the edge and it should suck right into the void and bond. If you still have a small leak use a small amount of aquarium sealant. Make sure you practice on a few pieces because it's not as easy as it looks. static from the acrylic will pull drips right into the piece and ruin it quicker then Sh!t.

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  • 2 months later...

hello all

so im about to cut some thin double layered acrylic, i was looking for the correct blade as well, my circle saw is 7 1/4th

will a 70T carbide do the trick, or even a 60T? i was told my a home depot emplyee that a 70T will work, e.g like the one i attached?

its hard to find a 84T on a 7" blade.

thanks for any help :)

freud-B001CZAT0S-1-lg.jpg

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It will probably heat up too much and cause mar Marks.  Best bet is to scour down the acrylic with a straight edge a few times and snap it down the line.  (If a super clean line isn't necessary.  Otherwise, slowly by hand is your best bet. )

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2 minutes ago, glideher said:

hmm the issue is this type of acrylic cannot be scored, its rippled acrylic and holly inside, ill need to find a picture and upload for reference

I would either cut it by hand or use a bandsaw with a slow speed setting then.  

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