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RO/DI Systems


TriggerHappyDude

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A typical RO/DI system makes virtually no noise other than maybe hearing the faint sound of water running with your ear up to it. With my system, the only noise from it (other than what you hear normally associated with a hose bib turned on) is the sound of the water trickling into my ATO bucket. :) With it in the garage, I never hear it, lol!

 

If the Rubbermaid container fits, then by all means use it! That's what about 3 gallons worth??

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TriggerHappyDude
A typical RO/DI system makes virtually no noise other than maybe hearing the faint sound of water running with your ear up to it. With my system, the only noise from it (other than what you hear normally associated with a hose bib turned on) is the sound of the water trickling into my ATO bucket. :) With it in the garage, I never hear it, lol!

 

If the Rubbermaid container fits, then by all means use it! That's what about 3 gallons worth??

 

Yep 3 gallons, hopefully I don't have a lot of evaporation in a week. I like to keep it cool in the house.

For those of you interested in the RO/DI Unit I purchased earlier in this thread, I've posted pictures on my tank build which is linked in my signature below...its a nice unit.

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TriggerHappyDude

So quick question about the hookup of this TDS meter I bought...

 

IMG_6516.jpg

 

Its a two line TDS, so it goes on the "IN" and "OUT" right?

Do I just cut my in and out tube and put the T Plugs in between the two pieces of tubing and attach the TDS meters to each of those T Plugs?

IMG_6514.jpg

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TriggerHappyDude

Right, and so the in and out tubes can be cut, and put on each end of those adapters hanging below the readout...? So that basically the water going through the tube goes into T adapters, where the meter reads is also plugged in and water passes over the meter where its read. I think I got it, its not that hard, again...noob here, but this makes sense finally.

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The 75 GPD Premium from www.buckeyefieldsupply.com is hard to beat at $169 complete for a full sized unit with vertical 20 oz refillable DI, clear housings, a Dow Filmtec RO membrane, 1 mocron prefilter, 0.6 micron 20,000 gallon carbon block, inline pressure gauge, handheld TDS meter with temp too, RO bypass valve, flush valve and more. I have yet to find a comparable unit for the same money.

 

I use nothing but Spectrapure myself but its way out of your $150 budget. You spend more initially but save from then on due to its superior performance and greatly extended runs on DI.

 

I am not a fan of inline TDS meters, they do not have the accuracy or portability of handhelds. I own two of them but only use them as a rough guide, I pull the COM-100 handheld out when I want accuracy, especially on the DI side.

 

To install the inline, cut the line between the RO membrane and the DI filter for the in probe tee and cut the line after the DI for the out probe tee. Make sure you have the probes installed all the way down in the tee and the orientation is right so they read correctly. They have a mark on them that must be pointed in a certain direction.

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deepdvnarq do not get the Dow 100 GPD membrane no matter what you do. It is only 90% rejection compared to the 75 GPD at 98% rejection, huge difference!

DI costs and life will eat you up if you make much water. A very accurate rule of thumb says for every 2% loss of rejection or removal efficiency you cut the DI resin life in HALF. With a 8% difference in rejection rate DI won't last worth a hoot. If the 100 GPD membrane is from GE Water or Applied it is OK but is actually almost identical to the Dow 75 GPD. The difference is Dow says their 75 GPD produces 75 GPD at 77 degrees F water temp and only 50 psi incoming pressure. GE Water (Osmonics) and Applied Membranes on the other hand say their 100 GPD produces 100 GPD at the same 77 degrees F but it takes 65 psi to do so. Lay the graphs over each other and you see the 75 GPD Dow makes 75 at 50 psi, 90 GPD at 60 psi and 100 GPD at 65 psi. The GE and Applied are the very same 75 at 50, 90 at 60 and their magic 100 at 65 psi. same difference.

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The 75 GPD Premium from www.buckeyefieldsupply.com is hard to beat at $169 complete for a full sized unit with vertical 20 oz refillable DI, clear housings, a Dow Filmtec RO membrane, 1 mocron prefilter, 0.6 micron 20,000 gallon carbon block, inline pressure gauge, handheld TDS meter with temp too, RO bypass valve, flush valve and more. I have yet to find a comparable unit for the same money.

Nice sales pitch but your just a bit late.

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I actually tested my first gallon and got 0TDS, so I used the first 5 gallons.Nothing bad happened, heck it was 0TDS. Only later did people tell me I still should have tossed the first 5-10 gallons. I still don't really understand why I'd waste 5-10 gallons of good water. :huh::D

 

 

I wasn't sure I was going to post it either, because it does seem obvious, but I figure better safe than sorry.

 

 

just cathing up on this thread so this may be a late response.

I bought a 75gpd unit from Air, Water and Ice that im really happy with. hooked it up with the T in my laundry room. mounted the unit on the wall. we have an old bathtub in the laundry room so i just put my containers in the tub and then run the waste line into the washing machine.

 

if i forget to shut it off for some reason the containers just overflow and the excess goes down the drain.

 

Scott... when i bought mine they suggested to run the unit for three hours to flush whatever chemicals they use to preserve the filters in shipping. Not sure what they are but that's what the instructions said....i doubt its a big issue.

cant believe i waited so long to buy a unit. So nice not having to go buy water every week.

definately worth the 150 bucks.

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Earlier you had a post asking about flushing the unit.

In this thread I explain why it is important to follow the correct flushing procedures.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=187293

 

 

Scott... when i bought mine they suggested to run the unit for three hours to flush whatever chemicals they use to preserve the filters in shipping. Not sure what they are but that's what the instructions said....i doubt its a big issue.

Thanks guys, makes sense. Using the water didn't seem to have a negative effect, but I'm better informed now. It was still probably better than my high TDS tap water.

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So how much water should I let the system create before using any in the tank?

 

At least 5 gallons, that's what I'd do to be safe at least.

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TriggerHappyDude

What should the PSI be? Here is what mine is...good enough?

The manual said between 40-80 PSI was good, this looks about 75 PSI? So good!

IMG_6512.jpg

 

Another noob question...

Do you turn the water supply off to the filter when done using it or just shut the valves that let it out?

Meaning do I need to leave water in the thing always or is it ok to shut it off and let it drain out?

 

Also, the instructions for my RD-102 says to let pure water drain for about 1 gallon before use. I've been letting it drain in my sink for about 3 hours now, so its probably ready?

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i'm thinking of getting a ro/di unit too. but i'm scared cause i think my psi is low. :(

 

Here's the deal with these filters. Three things affect their performance. Water pressure, water temp, and water quality going in. I have well water, so i pretty much have a problem with all three. I have a 50g day filter and it might produce half that amount a day. which is fine for me, really don't need that much anyways. they still work just at reduced efficiency

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TriggerHappyDude

What are the rules on the collection container for the RO/DI water? I know a lot of people use the Brute trash cans, but if I was looking for a smaller alternative, what are the things I need to look for?

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Dow Filmtec membranes get their GPD rating at 50 psi and 77 degrees F water temperature.

Looks like you have about 75 psi which is great as it will help overcome lower water temperatures.

 

If you want to get an idea of how much RO water you could expect at your 75 psi take a look at the calculator found at the top of the page here: www.buckeyefieldsupply.com .

Plug in your pressure and water temperature and it estimates the output. You should expect 75 GPD out of a Dow 75 GPD RO membrane even down to a water temp of 54 degrees. Colder water actually helps provide lower final TDS since it is more dense.

The TDS of water also has an effect of GPD but much less so than temp and pressure.

 

You can disconnect it and leave the canisters full when not in use if you use it at least onces every 7-10 days and store it in a climate controlled place like a closet or under the sink. Try to keep it away from direct lighting and extreme temperatures both high and low.

 

I store my RO/DI for top off in a 23 gallon Rubbermaid recycling can. Its rectangular so fits in a space only 12" wide by 24" deep. For changes I keep five of the 5G drinking water jugs around. You can also get nice jugs at any camping, RV or outdoors shop, even most Wal Marts have them.

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TriggerHappyDude

Thanks for that information AZDesertRat, was this concluded about my particular RO/DI unit or yours or just RO/DI units overall? I shut off the water going to the unit, and then it seemed to automatically drain out the canisters for me...is that ok to leave like that?

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The things I stated apply to all RO systems with the exception of the very first few sentences talking about 50 psi and 75 GPD. Other manufacturers of RO membranes such as Applied Membranes and GE Water(Osmonics) require 65 psi to produce that same 75 GPD. What this means is a 75 GPD Dow Filmtec is identical to a GE or Applied 100 GPD and a Applied or GE 75 is only equal to a Dow 50 GPD. The only name brand membrane to stay completely away from is the Dow Filmtec 100 GPD which is in fact not even an RO membrane but is classed as a nano-filter or 90% removal device and not a 96-98% removal RO filter.

 

Water draining out is normal, if I am going to store one I try to keep the tubes high and wrap them around the bracket on top sop most of the water is retained. The two filters dryness damages are the membrane itself and the DI resin which both need to stay moist.

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Hey Trigger, something I haven't mentioned yet is that you can increase the efficiency of your DI by turning them vertical instead of horizontal. This also helps diminish "channeling".

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When you turn them vertical also make sure the flow comes in the bottom and exits the top. Another thing is pack the DI resin as tightly as possible so water must squeeze between the resin beads and they do not float or fluidize.

 

Hey Trigger, something I haven't mentioned yet is that you can increase the efficiency of your DI by turning them vertical instead of horizontal. This also helps diminish "channeling".
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When you turn them vertical also make sure the flow comes in the bottom and exits the top. Another thing is pack the DI resin as tightly as possible so water must squeeze between the resin beads and they do not float or fluidize.

Good points.

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