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Ultimate LED guide


evilc66

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1. Typical to a spider reflector 250W (might want to tighten up the spacing a little for this one)

 

2. Typical to a low-ish PAR 150W (i.e. not a Phoenix)

 

3. Typical to a Phoenix 150W with a good reflector.

 

 

For a 22" deep tank, going with a 250W type setup would be better, unless you want to reserve the bottom of the tank to low light corals.

 

Thanks bro...You are really fast :D !

 

Btw, I think of setting up a LED array of 11 white on 40 degree and 10 Royal blue on 60 degree.

 

I'm expecting 250W and hopefully can replace my current 150MH with 2X24W T5HO :lol: .

 

What do you think about the below setup?

 

W RB W RB W RB W

RB W RB W RB W RB

W RB W RB W RB W

Edited by M@rine_lover
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If you want 250W levels, you are going to want to go with 40 degree optics on all LEDs. Alternating them will make the PAR levels a little spotty, especially higher up in the tank.

 

A suggestion would be to drop/add one LED in the middle row. It will allow you to set the middle row LEDs in between the front and rear to blend the colors a little better.

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I offered retros for them on the last group buy.

 

Were there any takers? I would get in line for one. How much will it cost? I have a budget of around $225.

Edited by fiction101
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OK, I must not be looking in the correct places.

 

Where do you buy the wider optics for Cree? So far the widest I have found is 25 degree, but there have to be more out there. Best I can figure is that I am searching for the wrong thing.

 

Also, in case I cannot find the info I need once I find the optics, anybody know how tall they are?

 

thx

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Any ideas for a BC29 hood? I want to be able to keep ANYTHING... Looking into gutting the whole hood and upgrading the fans and such...

 

 

If there was a retro for the JBJ 28 I would be in line..

 

Both are possible, and both I believe have been done already. Sps can easily be done with 60 degree optics to make an equivalent to a 150W MH.

 

OK, I must not be looking in the correct places.

 

Where do you buy the wider optics for Cree? So far the widest I have found is 25 degree, but there have to be more out there. Best I can figure is that I am searching for the wrong thing.

 

Also, in case I cannot find the info I need once I find the optics, anybody know how tall they are?

 

thx

 

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut680

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The Propagator

Evil,

 

I want to try and put together an all LED set up over my 100g frag system.

Dimensions are 60" L x 20" T x 18" W.

How many and what type LEDS would I need to construct an LED set up equivalent to 2x250 watt MH ?

If you could point me to a source for the guts I have a hood I would love to use. Its got azz loads of room in the top for heat exchange, and two big azz fan ports on either side. Its the one I am using now with my 2x250 w DE's and 2 x 96 PC. Its about the size of a 60" Hamiton hood.

Edited by The Propagator
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The Propagator

THATS what I am talking about !

 

I require photos of you're contraption so I may steal your design and copy it to the fullest of my ability please.

:P

Edited by The Propagator
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THATS what I am talking about !

 

I require photos of you're contraption so I may steal your design and copy it to the fullest of my ability please.

:P

 

Thanks. I'll be posting a full instruction sheet on RC this week. I can post it here as well if its ok.

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Would love any instruction sheet and parts list, as well as purchase sources if possible!!! Why is it that RC kills threads that link to here???

+1 to that

i have a 90 gallon I would love to Adapat tis to Want to run the same a s two 250 watt halides for this beasty.

Any and all advice accepted on how to set that up?

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I'd like to share...

 

I'll be getting PAR readings this week.

 

This isn't for a nano but it goes with the topic.

 

DSC04865.jpg

 

DSC04847.jpg

 

DSC04841.jpg

 

DSC04842.jpg

 

DSC04861.jpg

 

Nice one. Totally post details on this.

 

Prop, a setup like that would be pretty close to what you would need, but I would suggest covering the entire length of the tank instead of dividing it. This was one of the main things people complained about with the Solaris. Also, you would need optics to get the performance levels you want.

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In this setup, I am going without optics. I may change that in the future but for now, this is good. Most of the parts can be had at ledsupply.com. I have the par meter in hand and will be testing the blues alone tonight. The power supply blew for the whites and I have new ones on the way. I'll post further in the short future.

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The entire unit is driven with two power supplies that are hooked up to 8 individual buckpucks. The pucks are 1000mA on the white and 700mA on the blue.

 

Cost to build is about 600 give or take. I made many pre-prototypes and screwed stuff up along the way.

 

I am running two 24V 6.5a power supplies that I'm waiting on from the UPS guy. The power supplies that I am doing away with were those cheap crap things from dealextreme.com that supposedly put out 24V 4a. It couldn't handle the draw from the whites. Well, it did for two hours, then shot craps.

 

My first PAR readings are in... I tested only the blues only on one side, out of a tank, no water. I got 145 from 12" down and 60 at 24". Again, this was only the blues running at 700mA. I hope to have the new power supplies when I return from a business trip this week.

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