Deleted User 6 Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 Ahhh, I see now. Try plugging the ridged tubing with your finger and see if that improves or worsens the sound. If it reduces it, you could put an air valve on the tubing and use it to control the airflow (which is what I do on my stockman). If it doesn't change the sound, you have too little water flowing through the drain. Air valve. Sometimes people say things and I'm like, I am the biggest idiot on this site for not thinking of that. Thanks Fosi. You're forgiven for going to USC. Link to comment
Atari Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 your supposed to move the Rigid tubing up or down (probably down) to quite it. the system needs to "breath" if you will. You also may need to let it run for a little bit till the system balances itself after an adjustment. Link to comment
Mr. Fosi Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Thanks for the absolution. I'll watch to see what works. Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 Thanks to you both - I'll fiddle with it tonight. Link to comment
Atari Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Thanks to you both - I'll fiddle with it tonight. Link to comment
Whacked Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Air valve. Sometimes people say things and I'm like, I am the biggest idiot on this site for not thinking of that. Thanks Fosi. You're forgiven for going to USC. +1 That looks like the glass-holes system. You can always call them up and ask. I'm sure they will solve your problem Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 Alright - still working on the flow issue - right now I have the drain wide open and the pump throttled back - it's not making slurping sounds and it's not making bubbling sounds, but the water is loud draining down the PVC in the back. Any ideas? While you're thinking, check out the start of my lighting hood - is it ok to have the ballast, bulb, and wiring all in the same hood like this? Link to comment
Mr. Fosi Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 The loudness might be because of the elbows. Still sounds like you are running too little water through it. Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 So if I were to dismantle my drain plumbing and start over, how should I do it? Diagram? Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Bump on the light - will it be ok? Link to comment
Weetabix7 Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 I wouldn't put the ballast in the canopy just cause of heat issues. MH bulbs put out enough heat as it is, why add to it with the heat from the ballast? Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 I wouldn't put the ballast in the canopy just cause of heat issues. MH bulbs put out enough heat as it is, why add to it with the heat from the ballast? Mainly because the wires are too short to move the ballast elsewhere and I don't know how to rewire it to extend the ballast. Any ideas would be helpful. Link to comment
Growerguy Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Might help.. Durso standpipe You can allso look up the "herbie style" return on google. If anything put the ballast on top of the lid and drill a hole. Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 If anything put the ballast on top of the lid and drill a hole. Any idea how to extend the wires on the ballast? If I could get about 3 ft. of wire on it I could mount it inside the tank's stand and be done with it. Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Also, if I moved from rigid tubing like I have now on my overflow to flex tubing, wouldn't that reduce the noise of the drain? Most of the noise is coming from the stupid ball valve and the elbows where the water hits it. Could I go with a durso style t-connector with cap connected to flex tubing? It looks like I"ll have to rip out my current plumbing anyways, so why not start from scratch. I'll take ideas. Link to comment
Mr. Fosi Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Flex tubing is a lot quieter but it is also harder to make look nice. Personally, I don't care about the "niceness" I just want it to work the way I want it to work. So in this case, if you want quiet, you'll avoid sharp turns in the pipe (like 90-degree elbows) and try to use wider curves. I'd give you more specific design advice but I just don't have the time today. Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Flex tubing is a lot quieter but it is also harder to make look nice. Personally, I don't care about the "niceness" I just want it to work the way I want it to work. So in this case, if you want quiet, you'll avoid sharp turns in the pipe (like 90-degree elbows) and try to use wider curves. I'd give you more specific design advice but I just don't have the time today. Since it's all hidden behind the stand anyways, I don't care about nice either. And you've given me plenty of advice - I really appreciate it. I'll probably have to fix it this weekend. On the light, I think I can move the ballast to on top of the box and create some trimming to hide it. That should help with heat. Link to comment
Atari Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 I'm confused on what your asking about how to wire the MH. Do you need help on how to use wire connectors or how to read the wiring diagram on the ballast? Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 I'm confused on what your asking about how to wire the MH. Do you need help on how to use wire connectors or how to read the wiring diagram on the ballast? The ballast is all wired up - it came that way. So I know which wires connect to the bulb and which to the plug. I need to know how to lengthen the wires to the bulb so that I can move the ballast about 2-3 feet away from the bulb. Make sense? Link to comment
Atari Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 I would say go to hardware store get a box of wire nuts and a few feet of wire and go at it. Take a knife to cut the wire you need to extend strip the ends and up the wire nuts to add the new cable. Is this what your looking for? You can get more details on how to use wire nuts for the guy at the hardware store. Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 I would say go to hardware store get a box of wire nuts and a few feet of wire and go at it. Take a knife to cut the wire you need to extend strip the ends and up the wire nuts to add the new cable.Is this what your looking for? You can get more details on how to use wire nuts for the guy at the hardware store. Looks right - what type wire? Link to comment
Mr. Fosi Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 The same or larger gauge than what is on there now. Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 The same or larger gauge than what is on there now. Cool - I'll have at it tonight. Thanks guys. Link to comment
Deleted User 6 Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 So tonight I: 1. Extended the ballast so that I can mount it remotely 2. Finished the canopy but failed at how I wanted to hang it so now I'm building legs 3. Re-did the plumbing - another fail. I'm going to get flex tubing tomorrow. All in all, I didn't get very far. Link to comment
Atari Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 I'm glad the rewiring went well. Link to comment
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