zingtaw

LED MeanWell power supply?

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Having trouble with our new LED build, can anyone offer suggestions?

We finished our LED build with 3 meanwell ELN 60-48Ds, 30 leds, one dimmer LM317 circuit, one 12 v wall wart, opened up the first driver, turned svr2 all the way counter clockwise, wired the multimeter in series after the last LED, plugged in, only get initially .08 amps, turn svr2 up to max and only get .4 amps, no lights come on. Have double checked soldering, can anyone tell me where to start to figure out what we have wrong? One thing I have never been quite sure about, I know I can hook up more than one meanwell to the wallwart, but we have a separate cord for each meanwell, this is right isn't it?

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Having trouble with our new LED build, can anyone offer suggestions?

We finished our LED build with 3 meanwell ELN 60-48Ds, 30 leds, one dimmer LM317 circuit, one 12 v wall wart, opened up the first driver, turned svr2 all the way counter clockwise, wired the multimeter in series after the last LED, plugged in, only get initially .08 amps, turn svr2 up to max and only get .4 amps, no lights come on. Have double checked soldering, can anyone tell me where to start to figure out what we have wrong? One thing I have never been quite sure about, I know I can hook up more than one meanwell to the wallwart, but we have a separate cord for each meanwell, this is right isn't it?

So, we figured out what we were doing wrong and got the first strand of lights to come on.

Now the only problem we have is that our LM317 is not keeping the voltage below 10 v When we test the dimmer circuit (not under load) we get 8-14 volts. We set the LM317 pot to the lowest setting, connect the first of 3 meanwells and first strand of lights, and we cannot dim them down much and don't want to turn SVR2 up.

We put 1K and 450 ohm resistors in our LM317 per Evil's diagram. Do we need a larger resistor or is there possibly something we did wrong to keep the LM317 from doing it's job properly?

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A question about the build I am about to do.

 

I am going with diodes from StevesLEDs.com instead of Cree to test them out.

 

I cannot run these diodes at 1000mA as they are only rated to 700mA max.

 

Actinic Royal Blue

Vf = 3.3-3.6V (AC or DC)

Lux output - 175 Lux (35 Lumens)

Current - 700ma max

90° lens

455nm (for true radiative actinic)

 

Midday Sun Ultra White

Vf = 3.3-3.6V (AC or DC)

Lux output - 658 Lux (150-180 Lumens)

Current - 700ma max

90° lens

7,000 Kelvin color temperature.

 

I've read through the whole thread and I'm not positive on the best way to wire these up with the Meanwell drivers. I have a pair of 60-48Ps that I'm going to hook up to a reefangel controller for arduino dimming.

 

So the problem is the 700mA max current. I want to do between 24-28 diodes for my BC29 retro.

If I understand correctly, I should do 2 parallel strings of 6-7 LEDs in series and set SVR2 to 1.3-1.4A.

 

This would give each string of 6-7LEDs 650-700mA. Is this correct? How would the wiring on this look? Do I create 2 strings of 6-7 LEDs in series and then split the positive from the meanwell to go to the start of each string?

 

I read that another member here did this and wired them into a "grid" so that the failure of a single diode only puts the extra current into the paired diode and not the rest of the string. How does this work, exactly?

 

What is the calculation to determine how many of these diodes I can run off a single Meanwell 60-48 driver?

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A question about the build I am about to do.

 

I am going with diodes from StevesLEDs.com instead of Cree to test them out.

 

......

 

If you are going to run 2 strings in parallel you will need to create a current mirror. I am going to wire 3 series of 6 leds in parallel using 60-24D using the grid configuration detailed by meanwell for my 50B build.

 

But I wonder if you could just manually set the dimming limit with your controller, so that it doesn't overdrive the led's. Not so sure about the led's you are using, but I drive my cree's at 55% RB, 50% CW on my dimmable buck pucks.

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If you are going to run 2 strings in parallel you will need to create a current mirror. I am going to wire 3 series of 6 leds in parallel using 60-24D using the grid configuration detailed by meanwell for my 50B build.

 

But I wonder if you could just manually set the dimming limit with your controller, so that it doesn't overdrive the led's. Not so sure about the led's you are using, but I drive my cree's at 55% RB, 50% CW on my dimmable buck pucks.

 

I considered setting ~70% as the max for PWM output on the controller, however since the 60-48P dims in at 10-15% they would come in pretty damn bright to begin with. I'd rather have the full 0-100% range (well, 15-100% range) so they can fade in and out a little bit easier.

 

Another poster on here wired his diodes in a parallel grid (basically connecting the strings at each LED) so that if one LED failed only the other diode in the pair got the extra current instead of the whole string. If both diodes in a pair failed then the string would go out. The loss of $4.30 seems like it may be less of a headache than wiring the current mirror but I am still not sure. StevesLEDs diodes were so cheap that I ordered an extra 20-30% more of them than I needed for testing and replacements.

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hey evil did you happen to make the circuit for the RKM-ALC?

 

Thanks

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Any Updates on the circuit Evil on the ALC for the 48P driver?

 

thanks

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Sorry bud. I haven't had any time to work on it.

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no problem i know uve been busy with other stuff...ill be waiting on the circuit

 

 

thanks

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Hello,

 

I´m making a led´s fixture for my tank and wanted to use the "P" circuit for dimming my eln-60-48P.

 

This:

555PWM.jpg

 

I did twice and none of them works. I have not much knowledge of electronic but i have a polimeter ;)

 

What can I check and how?

 

Thanks in advance

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Hello,

 

I´m making a led´s fixture for my tank and wanted to use the "P" circuit for dimming my eln-60-48P.

 

This:

555PWM.jpg

 

I did twice and none of them works. I have not much knowledge of electronic but i have a polimeter ;)

 

What can I check and how?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Post a picture of your circuit, the top and the bottom both

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CIMG7043.JPG

CIMG7044.JPG

 

I Know it´s not the finest work.. but I´m sure that the traces and wires are ok.

When connecting to a DC12V power source I Get these values in the output:

 

Upper circuit:

 

Pot full left = 0.16v-0.17v

Pot middle position = 0.37v-0.41v

Pot full rigth = 0.34v-0.41v

 

Bottom ciruit:

 

Pot full left = 0.15v-0.17v

Pot middle position = 0.33v-0.39v

Pot full rigth = 0.32v-0.36v

 

I tested the pot, diodes, resistances and lm317 and are OK.

I can´t (i don´t know how) test the capacitors.

I noticed that although the shopping list was the same I have diferent capacitors:

 

Upper: 47nj63 and u1j63

bottom: 47nj63 and u1k63

Edited by jaimepo

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A voltmeter will not read the output voltage correctly with a circuit like this. It just can't respond fast enough to the frequency (remember, this isn't a constant smooth output). You may have slightly better luck reading the voltage as AC rather than DC. First thing to check though is that the voltage regulator is working correctly. What is the voltage on the output of the LM317? Should be close to 10v. After that, make sure that pin 4 and 8 have that same voltage. Also, make sure all your grounds are connected properly.

 

Have you actually connected it to anything to see if it works? Try using a 5mm LED with a 100K resistor inline to see if it will dim.

Edited by evilc66

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Hello,

 

I tried with the meanwell and nothing happened.

The lm317 output is the central pin, isn´t it? The reading is 9.82v

Same reading for pins 4 and 8 of the 555

I tried with a led and resistor as you said, and I can dim it!! but the light is very very poor, like it had insuficient power.

Next step?

 

Thanks a lot for your interest!!

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Hello

 

I read somewhere that "P" meanwell can be dimmed with PWM and with analog 0-10v too (as "D" )

Yesterday night I make the DEvilc66´s analog circuit and it works!!! :D

 

The dim is not so smooth, especially at low power, it shut off very quick, but it´s OK by the moment, at the end I´d like to dim the led from an amplified ardino PWM signal. B)

 

Thanks !!!

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Hello

 

I read somewhere that "P" meanwell can be dimmed with PWM and with analog 0-10v too (as "D" )

Yesterday night I make the DEvilc66´s analog circuit and it works!!! :D

 

The dim is not so smooth, especially at low power, it shut off very quick, but it´s OK by the moment, at the end I´d like to dim the led from an amplified ardino PWM signal. B)

 

Thanks !!!

With Arduino you will have a little more control over the dimming but the cut off will be the same. I wish when my arduino starts the light was lower than what it does. Starts ramping from about 15%

Edited by sammy113

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Hello,

 

I tried with the meanwell and nothing happened.

The lm317 output is the central pin, isn´t it? The reading is 9.82v

Same reading for pins 4 and 8 of the 555

I tried with a led and resistor as you said, and I can dim it!! but the light is very very poor, like it had insuficient power.

Next step?

 

Thanks a lot for your interest!!

 

Sounds like it's working. The 100K resistor will make the LED really dim. It's more of a just-in-case so the LED doesn't draw too much current from the 555 timer. If it's not working with the Meanwell, make sure you first have at least 7 LEDs connected to the driver (you need a load to test it properly), and you have the polarity of the dimming wires correct.

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Went out and got some items for my project to day

 

555 Timer x 1

Diode (1N4148) x 2

100K ohm Potentiometer x 1

0.1uF Capacitor x 3

10K ohm Resistor x 1

LM317 Voltage Regulator x 1

470 ohm Resistor x 1

3.3K ohm Resistor x 1

 

But i see now that the parts have changed a little from post #51 and #509 so my question is witch is correct or is this still a working project ?

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A question about the build I am about to do.

 

I am going with diodes from StevesLEDs.com instead of Cree to test them out.

 

I cannot run these diodes at 1000mA as they are only rated to 700mA max.

 

Actinic Royal Blue

Vf = 3.3-3.6V (AC or DC)

Lux output - 175 Lux (35 Lumens)

Current - 700ma max

90° lens

455nm (for true radiative actinic)

 

Midday Sun Ultra White

Vf = 3.3-3.6V (AC or DC)

Lux output - 658 Lux (150-180 Lumens)

Current - 700ma max

90° lens

7,000 Kelvin color temperature.

 

 

I just went to Stevesleds and copied the info for his leds...

 

Royal Actinic Blue:

Wavelength- 455nm - at the peak of the actinic spectrum. Maximum PAR output!

Topology - This is a two chip/wafer LED for higher reliability and maximum heat displacement

Forward voltage - 3.3-3.6 Volts - The forward voltage varies depending on how many LEDs you have in series on the driver. More LEDs in the array = Lower forward voltage.

Power requirement - 600-850ma

Coral impact -This LED is designed with coral growth and maximum iridescence (color "pop") in mind! Royal Actinic Blue LEDs cause GREEN and orange corals' color to pop out.

 

Midday Sun Ultra White:

Color Temperature- 7,000K - the exact color temperature of our own Sun when it is at its zenith in the sky, at the equator. This results in 100% natural color, great for freshwater or marine aquariums.

Topology - This is a single wafer design.

Forward voltage - 3.3-3.6 Volts - The forward voltage varies depending on how many LEDs you have in series on the driver. More LEDs in the array = Lower forward voltage.

Power requirement - 600-850ma

Coral impact -This LED is designed with all livestock and live rock in mind, representing what you would actually see if you went diving in the ocean.

 

According to this they can be driven to to 850ma?

Where did your get you info from?

 

DougN

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I got my LED's to day and found out that this circuit for the pwm dose not work, witch is kinda frustrating sins it cost around 42$ to make lol, but here is a photo of the circuit, if any one can see some thing i missed i will make you my king :)

 

391202600.jpg

391202609.jpg

391202618.jpg

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quick problem i am having.

 

On my fixture i have 2 meanwell 60-48d, 24 LED (12 Cree Whites and 12 Royal Blues) a multivoltage PSU.

 

Got everything soldered correctly, at least i think so, but when i power them on, only the first LED in the 2 series lights up.

 

The pots i have dont seem to dim them at all either...

 

Any hints of something i am missing?

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quick problem i am having.

 

On my fixture i have 2 meanwell 60-48d, 24 LED (12 Cree Whites and 12 Royal Blues) a multivoltage PSU.

 

Got everything soldered correctly, at least i think so, but when i power them on, only the first LED in the 2 series lights up.

 

The pots i have dont seem to dim them at all either...

 

Any hints of something i am missing?

Check for continuity in the heatsink and each solder

Have you check your current from the drivers?

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I got my LED's to day and found out that this circuit for the pwm dose not work, witch is kinda frustrating sins it cost around 42$ to make lol, but here is a photo of the circuit, if any one can see some thing i missed i will make you my king :)

 

391202600.jpg

391202609.jpg

391202618.jpg

 

Pump

 

Every pwm i have seen has the diodes connected to nr.2 and the pot's middle to ne.3, but on this one it's reverse, why is that ?

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hi

sorry for my english.....

I read everything, but I understood very little

I have 9 plates, each plate is mounted on 9 XRE Q5 Cree LED color wa and 4 led royalblu

each plate has two connectors (positive and negative) from which all food and 13 LEDs

I want to power the LEDs at 700mA and I would use a few drivers.....

the LEDs are dimmed to an Arduino with 1-10V ...

Now I would like to know how many drivers have to buy to handle 81 white LEDs and 36 blue LEDs at 700mA, whereas the white LEDs will be powered separately from the blue?

the LEDs are mounted in series or parallel?

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