LED MeanWell power supply?

[M@rine_lover]

Have anyone directly connect the ProfiLux controller's 1-10V port to Meanwell dimming function control pin?

 

Some said It need a LF-abox or EVG-AP board in between them...isit a must? and why?

[M@rine_lover]

i'd like to sit here and read 720 posts but its a bit time consuming i've been searching forever to try and find how to do it without a LM317 pwm but i'm not having much luck with it. what other options are there to provide the signal through it? i'm trying to understand the pwm circuit that evil posts on page 3 or so but i just don't really get what wires go where and what solders on what

 

I have tested using 9V dc adapter directly connect to the dimming function pin last year and it works for both D and P type .

[Ron99]

I'd keep the meanwells off the heatsink. Your are trying to cool down the heatsink as much as possible. Meanwells get hot and I'm afraid it will transfer to the heatsink unless you have a super noisy high RPM fans. Just my though.

 

Do the Meanwells get hot or just warm? I have a ton of heatsink; it is probably overkill. My heatsinks together probably weigh 40 or 50 pounds.

[sammy113]

Do the Meanwells get hot or just warm? I have a ton of heatsink; it is probably overkill. My heatsinks together probably weigh 40 or 50 pounds.

Unfortunately I don't have a hand held digital thermometer but I could say my 2 meanwells get as warm as the heatsink. Its warm... you can touch it for a couple of seconds, then ouch. With the temp probe from the tank it says 134.5F

[M@rine_lover]

Have anyone directly connect the ProfiLux controller's 1-10V port to Meanwell dimming function control pin?

 

Some said It need a LF-abox or EVG-AP board in between them...isit a must? and why?

 

can anyone advice ?

[evilc66]

Those modules provide the 0-10v signal. No module, no dimming. Easy as that.

[Crazy Tiki]

Hey Wanted to get your feedback on this as a power supply for dimming the "D" drivers.

 

0-12VDC Variable Power Supply

 

Granted it goes over the 10 vdc, but it seems pretty comparable to building the evil's circuit along with a wall wart.

[evilc66]

If it's using an LM317 as the output stage, you could mod it to max out at 10v. I wouldn't use it unmodified though.

[ming]

Question,

 

I hooked up the Lm377 circuit for the d model to a 24v .4 amp power supply and when I turn the potentiometer up or down, one of the directions makes the LM377 circuit so hot one of my 2 circuits burnt its self out with smoke and all.

 

I should probally hook it up to a mini heatsink?

I just got similar results but ONLY when I turned the pot all the way down to 1V... it got hot enough to start melting the solder at the back of the LM317. When I turn it to 5V, the LM317 gets warm, but never hot, when I turn it to 10V, it never gets warm.

FWIW, I'm using a 12V .3A power supply

 

I'm suppose to use a LM317? or a LM377?

The pic shows 317

 

 

One last question, if I wanted to hook multiple dimmer controllers of these, should they be wired up parallel or in series? In series, I'm guessing the GND of 1 goes to the Vin of the next? Sorry if the question seems dumb.

 

Thanks for all your help evil

[evilc66]

That's odd that it gets so hot when turned down. I'll have to look into that.

 

You should be using LM317s for this.

 

If you are running multiples, they should be in parallel. Nothing should be in series on this part.

[Ron99]

Next question please. I am wiring everything up right now. Using the ELN 60-48P drivers. How do I test the current they are putting out? Do I just connect the multimeter directly to the +Ve and -Ve of the driver's output or does it have to be under load? I tried just reading directly from the driver with no load and got weird readings. Of the four drivers I tried two seemed to be putting out about 900mA, one was about 1.3A and the other was 1.4A. I thought they maxed out at about 1.2A? All of them were putting out 48V. Also, the wires sparked when I touched them with the multimeter probes (measuring current but not when measuring voltage). Is that normal?

 

BTW, I am just using a 9V battery connected to the dim inputs at the moment just to get them to fire up for testing. It's a used battery and seemed to only be putting out about 6.5V. I have it connected in parallel to all 4 of the dim inputs of the drivers.

[evilc66]

You have to test under load. To measure current, you have to wire the meter in series to the LEDs. Add it in like you would add another LED. NEVER connect the LEDs or the meter to a powered driver. Power off -> connect LEDs and meter -> power on -> test and adjust -> power off -> remove meter.

[Ron99]

You have to test under load. To measure current, you have to wire the meter in series to the LEDs. Add it in like you would add another LED. NEVER connect the LEDs or the meter to a powered driver. Power off -> connect LEDs and meter -> power on -> test and adjust -> power off -> remove meter.

 

Thanks once again Evil. That makes sense.

[therman]

Still waiting on my Meanwells to arrive...

 

I was planning to put them in the fixture (three 30" heatsinks in parallel) in the roughly 6" space between the heat sinks. Can they be stacked on top of each other, or do they get so hot that heat will build up between them and they'll fry? I'm running 12 meanwells in this fixture, so to space them all out in a pendant would be a lot of real estate...

 

Any tips from those running several would be appreciated.

 

Thanks!

Tim

[Ron99]

Hopefully my last question to get everything running. I'm expecting my Arduino bits in the next few days. What is the consensus on the best circuit and transistors (NPN or PNP?) to use for the PWM signal from the Arduino to the ELN6-48P? Sorry but I have seen a couple of different versions here.

 

Thanks!

[osuav8er]

I've hit a wall and could use an idea anybody has one.

 

Setup:

 

12 3W Cree XRE's wired in series.

 

1 Meanwell ELN-60-48D driver

 

1 12V 1500mA wall wart.

 

1 LM317 circuit built to your spec's.

 

 

I've tested for:

 

120V from the wall

 

10.5V coming from the circuit board dimmable to 0V by the POT.

 

 

Connections:

 

White - Brown and Black - Blue on the AC side.

 

From Driver:

 

V+(Red) to first + pad on LED string.

 

V-(Black) to last - pad on LED string.

 

DIM+(Blue) to V out of circuit board.

 

DIM-(White) to GRND from circuit board and GRND from wall wart.

 

 

I plug the wall wart in first and then the power cord for the driver.

 

I see a brief flash from the LED's and then nothing. When I unplug, I see the LED's go from nothing to what looks like full brightness in about 3 seconds and then go out.

 

I'm out of ideas and could use any suggestion out there.

[evilc66]

Hopefully my last question to get everything running. I'm expecting my Arduino bits in the next few days. What is the consensus on the best circuit and transistors (NPN or PNP?) to use for the PWM signal from the Arduino to the ELN6-48P? Sorry but I have seen a couple of different versions here.

 

Thanks!

 

You can use both. It's all down to how you configure the circuit.

 

I've hit a wall and could use an idea anybody has one.

 

Setup:

 

12 3W Cree XRE's wired in series.

 

1 Meanwell ELN-60-48D driver

 

1 12V 1500mA wall wart.

 

1 LM317 circuit built to your spec's.

 

 

I've tested for:

 

120V from the wall

 

10.5V coming from the circuit board dimmable to 0V by the POT.

 

 

Connections:

 

White - Brown and Black - Blue on the AC side.

 

From Driver:

 

V+(Red) to first + pad on LED string.

 

V-(Black) to last - pad on LED string.

 

DIM+(Blue) to V out of circuit board.

 

DIM-(White) to GRND from circuit board and GRND from wall wart.

 

 

I plug the wall wart in first and then the power cord for the driver.

 

I see a brief flash from the LED's and then nothing. When I unplug, I see the LED's go from nothing to what looks like full brightness in about 3 seconds and then go out.

 

I'm out of ideas and could use any suggestion out there.

 

Like I mentioned in PM, check your dimmer polarity.

[davidschmaus]

Hi everyone

 

I have the 48-p with a 9v wall wart connected to the dimmer wires of the meanwell. I have 12 cree q5 wired and everything lights up just fine.

 

Here is the question.

 

I set srv1 and srv2 to the lowest setting. Now I need to know how to set these where they need to be.

 

I have a multimeter..

 

Thanks so much.

[therman]

anxiously awaiting this answer...

 

Hi everyone

 

I have the 48-p with a 9v wall wart connected to the dimmer wires of the meanwell. I have 12 cree q5 wired and everything lights up just fine.

 

Here is the question.

 

I set srv1 and srv2 to the lowest setting. Now I need to know how to set these where they need to be.

 

I have a multimeter..

 

Thanks so much.

[davidschmaus]

Hi everyone

 

I have the 48-p with a 9v wall wart connected to the dimmer wires of the meanwell. I have 12 cree q5 wired and everything lights up just fine.

 

Here is the question.

 

I set srv1 and srv2 to the lowest setting. Now I need to know how to set these where they need to be.

 

I have a multimeter..

 

Thanks so much.

 

 

Ok here is a picture of the multimeter. I cant figure out how to read it. This is with srv1 and srv2 at the lowest setting. I have the multimeter wired in just like it was the first led in the series.

[frode]

Ok here is a picture of the multimeter. I cant figure out how to read it. This is with srv1 and srv2 at the lowest setting. I have the multimeter wired in just like it was the first led in the series.

 

I've been looking at this pic of your multimeter for some time...only thing I can think of is that you have to read the Ampere from the same scale as the Ohms...???

 

What happens if you set the range of the multimeter to 10A ?

[davidschmaus]

I've been looking at this pic of your multimeter for some time...only thing I can think of is that you have to read the Ampere from the same scale as the Ohms...???

 

What happens if you set the range of the multimeter to 10A ?

 

After I posted this I played some more. Here is what I think. See the top DC line that maxes out at 250. I figure that since the dial is set at 500 I could just read the 250 line and double it. So in the picture it would be

around 200. So I increase SRV2 so that the meter read 250 (which would be 500)

 

Then I set the multimeter to 10A which I believe is 10000. The reading I got (from the 0-250 scale) was around 12 1/2) So if the needle is at 250 that should be 10000. 250x40=10000 So take 12 1/2 x 40 = 500. That makes sense. That means if I need it at 1000 the needle should read 25 on the 0-250 scale (25x40 = 1000).

 

So I turned srv2 so I got that reading and nothing blew up. That is where I left off last night. I am not sure if my thinking is right and would love for someone that knows what they are doing to help me.

 

Thanks!!

[elliottargyle]

Anyone,

 

I've been reading the Meanwell forum for hours now....my head is spinning. I like the meanwell ELN-60-48, basic unit. If I don't care about dimming, is this just a "plug and play" 13 LED's in series dialed to 1000mA? Is that all I could run off of one unit? I'm trying to keep things simple. If I wanted to power about 60 LED's I would need about 5 of these...correct? Are power supplies needed? if so I just need someone to tell me what to buy based on my build. My eyes hurt from reading so much! That's all for now....I'm going to keep reading and re-reading so I don't end up spending around a 1000 bucks and then mess it up. Do you plan on a "Group Buy" in the near future? Just curious. Once I start getting parts, I plan on documenting this build with CAD, solidworks, and pics to help others cut down on the 100's of pages of info.....I know each build is unique, but there has to be some sort of base standard to start from. Or did I miss something in a post?

[Ron99]

I have my Arduino and associated bits now and have a question about the PWM circuit. Here's the circuit I am going to use:

 

 

I am using 8 drivers to power 80 LEDS, 4 for blues and 4 for whites and given that I will need to set up two different PWM signals, one for white and one for blue my questions are the following:

 

1. Can the output from the one transistor be split in parallel to 4 drivers or do I need a separate transistor for each driver?

 

2. Can the output from the LM317 be split in parallel to the two separate PWM circuits?

 

Hope that makes sense and thanks in advance for the input.

[Giannis86]

Hey folks,

 

I would really appreciate it if someone could help with a puzzle in my head.

 

First of all let me say that my understanding of circuitry isnt that good.

 

I have 2x Meanwell ELN 60-48D which will be hooked up to 9 leds each.

As suggested in this thread, i want to build the 0-10v analog dimmer.

 

My problem is that i cannot find the same components as found in this thread, in Europe (Netherlands). For example, in the following site http://www1.conrad.nl/ i found some of the components but they seem to have different product descriptions (tolerance, max voltage), let alone they look completely different). Do these differences matter?

 

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

One last question, I might be buying a GHL Profilux II Light computer to avoid the hussle with the circuitry. From what i know it allows up to 4 channels up to 10V. Am i correct to say that i can connect each driver to a seperate channel easily knowing that the meanwell's also require up to 10v?

 

Thanks.

(btw for what its worth i have read this thread multiple times lol)