LED MeanWell power supply?

[evilc66]

For testing, sure.

[Ron99]

For testing, sure.

 

Excellent. Thanks.

[frode]

sup evil i havent been keeping up on the thread. i was wondering if you ever build the circuit for the RKM-ALC?

 

Thanks

 

Hello,

 

I'm new here on the forum. Found this thread while looking for a way to use my errorly ordered MW ELN-60-48P with my 0-1v analog dimming channel from my IKS Aquastar with Simmod. It should have been D-models. But as it took more then 2 months for the drivers to arrive from the US (I live in Holland), returning them is not my first option. That is, if I could make the P-version work with the 0-10v dimming channel.

 

Just read 36 pages with very interesseting info. But I guess what I was looking for is still not worked out?

 

Maybe I should point out that I am at the start of building my first LED-fixture. Ordered a complete package at www.rapid-led.com

 

No LED building experience yet. Very basic electronic knowledge, soldering skill I have yet to develop

 

Best regards, Frode

[opy01]

I've been running mine for several months now on the D model and the ALC finally works on my RKL. It actually dims fine, well its more of an exponential curve barely fading over about 45 minutes then the last 15 minutes it dims pretty darn quick. Has anyone else noticed with 0v in the 0-10v input the royal blues stay on very dim? I've been through this entire thread and nobody mentions it but I noticed someone else in another forum did. I was annoyed by the stupid flash when A/C power is killed and Evil told me to leave the Meanwells on 24/7 but with the royal blues staying on I cant.

[redfishsc]

Mine flashed when AC power was turned off for a short while but they don't do it now... that I notice, at least. I have mine on a timer and both the Meanwell and to 10v power input goes off at the same time.

 

 

 

My dimmer is an analog potentiometer, and there is definitely the exponential curve you mention, as I crank it up and down. little brighter.....little brighter...little brighter...little brighter.....little brighter..... a LOT BRIGHTER..REALLY BRIGHT.

 

 

I'm not sure how to stop the low-level light emitting when input is low, but mine do the exact same thing if I turn the dimmer all the way down. I don't think mine actually hits 0v, I think it goes down to 1 or 2v.

 

Now if I turn the input voltage totally off (ie, unplug the 10v power supply) then the LED's will dim and turn totally off over a 5-15 second "fade". They don't emit anything.

[disbjohn]

I got an LPC-35-700 meanwell driver and hooked it up to 3 LEDs and it didn't light up. I was wondering if there is a way to check to see if the driver is working properly. I checked voltage and current for the driver and it read 47.5V and 700ma. Are there any other determining factors indicating that the driver is working properly? I checked continuity across the LED's as well and it was reading 0. When I powered up the LED's, the voltage across the string only ready 3.7v total.

[DashingAquatics]

dim- is ground and dim+ is Vout, the LM317 is for dimming the "D" version though and it doesn't create a PWM output, it creates a variable DC output.

 

 

Where would you connect the power supply neg and pos wires?

[evilc66]

Hello,

 

I'm new here on the forum. Found this thread while looking for a way to use my errorly ordered MW ELN-60-48P with my 0-1v analog dimming channel from my IKS Aquastar with Simmod. It should have been D-models. But as it took more then 2 months for the drivers to arrive from the US (I live in Holland), returning them is not my first option. That is, if I could make the P-version work with the 0-10v dimming channel.

 

Just read 36 pages with very interesseting info. But I guess what I was looking for is still not worked out?

 

Maybe I should point out that I am at the start of building my first LED-fixture. Ordered a complete package at www.rapid-led.com

 

No LED building experience yet. Very basic electronic knowledge, soldering skill I have yet to develop

 

Best regards, Frode

I'm still trying to find a decent circuit that will do what is needed.

 

Where would you connect the power supply neg and pos wires?

Vin and GND

[frode]

I'm still trying to find a decent circuit that will do what is needed.

 

Would be nice to know

[DashingAquatics]

Question,

 

I hooked up the Lm377 circuit for the d model to a 24v .4 amp power supply and when I turn the potentiometer up or down, one of the directions makes the LM377 circuit so hot one of my 2 circuits burnt its self out with smoke and all.

 

I should probally hook it up to a mini heatsink?

[evilc66]

It should generate very little heat. Can you post some detailed pictures of how you have it hooked up?

[ming]

Yes, that's for the "P" model.

 

 

Adjusting the voltage down is fine. Adding a resistor is just wasting energy and adding heat.

 

For those of you looking to build the 0-10v analog dimmer for the "D" models, here is a diagram for you to follow. This will let you use anything from a 12-32v supply and still give you 1.25-10v output for the Meanwell.

 

 

Red lines are "solder traces"

 

All parts are available from Radioshack.

Just to confirm, you could just use a 12v supply, 2k resister, and a pot, but people are building this just so they can use any 12-32v supply, correct?

[evilc66]

Kind of. You can't rely on a "12v" power supply to be 12v on the dot. Many cheap wall warts can be as high as 16v. This circuit makes sure your upper limit is 10v no matter the input voltage.

[Crazy Tiki]

Sorry but I must be missing something. On Evi's 10v dimmable circuit for the "D" drivers I only see one Vin input (I presume wiring the + wire from 12v wall wart), But where would the second wire (negative) be attached to. Thanks for the clarification

 

 

I understand that the Vout will connect to the dim+ on the driver and the GND will connect to the dim-.

[evilc66]

GND, DIM-, and the power supply ground all get connected together.

[Crazy Tiki]

GND, DIM-, and the power supply ground all get connected together.

 

Okay I get it know, its just inline to the positive wire of the DC wall wart. thanks for the help

[ming]

Thanks Evil.

I suppose I'll build one just to be safe.

Here are the links for the parts for those who want to avoid searching... I think these are the correct parts.

LM317 - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairch...Ol%2fpaRCDcrsrF

470 Ohms - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Sp...AWP8eSSIa3ik%3d

10k pot - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ALPS/R...AHxYlzgHkxak%3d

1 uF - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata...Jcza2UA8TVU0%3d

.1 uF - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay...1e%252baSdJw%3d

1KOhms - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Sp...VO23iZBQpnCY%3d

 

I can't seem to find a circuit board on the site.. is it called something special?

 

EDIT: is this it? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Twin-I...pPMAOdENINytuBO

[evilc66]

I can't find it, but it's in there somewhere. You can get it from Radioshack easy enough though.

[h3llphyre]

I can't seem to find a circuit board on the site.. is it called something special?

 

EDIT: is this it? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Twin-I...pPMAOdENINytuBO

 

It's called "perf board" by some (short for perforated board), "prototyping board" by others. That is what you want.

[evilc66]

Yes, but they don't have plated pads. The other options that company sells (not Mouser) are expensive. The small square perfboards at Radioshack are a few dollars for two.

[hisrylfreshness2]

hey everyone,

 

i have some questions about the ELN 60-48D that i'm trying to use... I have a string of 12 xre whites and a string of 12 of the royal blues. i then try to have one of the drivers connected with V+ to the plus of the first white LED and the V- to the minus of the last LED. The DIM are not being used and are exposed because I don't need the dimming capability just yet. I have the ACn connected to the white wire of my power cord and the ACl to the brown. BUT when I plug the cord into the outlet, nothing. Sometimes i can see a flicker in the LEDs or when i unplug the cord the whole array will do a reverse type of dim and get brighter and brighter and then cuts off. Can anybody give me an explanation as to whats going wrong?

[sammy113]

Read some more here in this thread. If you don't have a dim circuit, you still need to provide a signal through it in order to operate.

[Ron99]

Read some more here in this thread. If you don't have a dim circuit, you still need to provide a signal through it in order to operate.

 

I have another question for the experts here

 

I can probably squeeze the meanwells (8 of them) into the top of the housing I am using to make everything self contained This is my 4' array build build here:

 

My Build

 

But the plastic case of the driver will most likely be in contact with the top of the heatsinks. Would anybody see this being a problem with heat build up or heat from the heatsinks? The housing is fairly well vented and I will be running 3 fans at the top of the housing to draw in cool air. Or alternatively I could run the fans to pull air out of the housing thus drawing air in the vents at the side. Or maybe two fans as intakes and one as an exhaust?

 

Any knowledgeable opinions would be welcome.

[hisrylfreshness2]

i'd like to sit here and read 720 posts but its a bit time consuming i've been searching forever to try and find how to do it without a LM317 pwm but i'm not having much luck with it. what other options are there to provide the signal through it? i'm trying to understand the pwm circuit that evil posts on page 3 or so but i just don't really get what wires go where and what solders on what

[sammy113]

I have another question for the experts here

 

I can probably squeeze the meanwells (8 of them) into the top of the housing I am using to make everything self contained This is my 4' array build build here:

 

My Build

 

But the plastic case of the driver will most likely be in contact with the top of the heatsinks. Would anybody see this being a problem with heat build up or heat from the heatsinks? The housing is fairly well vented and I will be running 3 fans at the top of the housing to draw in cool air. Or alternatively I could run the fans to pull air out of the housing thus drawing air in the vents at the side. Or maybe two fans as intakes and one as an exhaust?

 

Any knowledgeable opinions would be welcome.

 

I'd keep the meanwells off the heatsink. Your are trying to cool down the heatsink as much as possible. Meanwells get hot and I'm afraid it will transfer to the heatsink unless you have a super noisy high RPM fans. Just my though.