LED MeanWell power supply?

[Sailfish]

I`ve just looked at the schematics for the LM317 circuit and just want to be sure if I`ve understood what all the parts are.

 

To build the dim unit for the Mean Well "D"-series you would need:

- 1 x LM317, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/10-pcs-LM317LZ-LM317L-...8#ht_1654wt_939

- 1 x 470 ohm resistor, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/20pcs-470-ohm-CARBON-F...d#ht_739wt_1165

- 1 x 10K linear potentiometer, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Dual-10K-Potentiometer...1#ht_3222wt_939

- 1 x 1 uF capacitor, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/50PCS-Radial-multilaye...b0#ht_500wt_956

- 1 x 0.1 uF capacitor, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/20pcs-104J-0-1uF-0-1-u...d#ht_1196wt_939

 

So that only leaves the "1 K" thing and the red and black lines.

Is "1 K" a resistor?

And with the red lines beeing solder traces, do you mean strips of solder connecting one part to another, in stead of using wires?

And the black lines are wires right?

An the green line is also a wire, just illustrated with a different color to seperate it from the other connections?

 

Would be great if somebody would point out mistakes, if there are any

For those of you looking to build the 0-10v analog dimmer for the "D" models, here is a diagram for you to follow. This will let you use anything from a 12-32v supply and still give you 1.25-10v output for the Meanwell.

 

 

Red lines are "solder traces"

 

All parts are available from Radioshack.

[evilc66]

I`ve just looked at the schematics for the LM317 circuit and just want to be sure if I`ve understood what all the parts are.

 

To build the dim unit for the Mean Well "D"-series you would need:

- 1 x LM317, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/10-pcs-LM317LZ-LM317L-...8#ht_1654wt_939

- 1 x 470 ohm resistor, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/20pcs-470-ohm-CARBON-F...d#ht_739wt_1165

- 1 x 10K linear potentiometer, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Dual-10K-Potentiometer...1#ht_3222wt_939

- 1 x 1 uF capacitor, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/50PCS-Radial-multilaye...b0#ht_500wt_956

- 1 x 0.1 uF capacitor, like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/20pcs-104J-0-1uF-0-1-u...d#ht_1196wt_939

 

So that only leaves the "1 K" thing and the red and black lines.

Is "1 K" a resistor?

 

Yes, that's a resistor.

 

You are going to be waiting forever for the majority of your parts. Most of those listings are coming from Asia. You are also adding a lot of shipping charges. Go and buy the parts from the local country branch of places like Digikey, Mouser, or Farnell. One place, one shipping charge. The parts you picked are fine (you don't need a dual pot, but it works).

 

And with the red lines beeing solder traces, do you mean strips of solder connecting one part to another, in stead of using wires?

Yes, except the wire going to Vin. That should actually be a wire to your power supply.

 

And the black lines are wires right?

They are the leads on the components.

 

An the green line is also a wire, just illustrated with a different color to seperate it from the other connections?

 

Would be great if somebody would point out mistakes, if there are any

Correct.

[Sailfish]

I see that it is a wide variety of how for example the resistors are made.

You can get Carbon Composition Resistors, Carbon Film Resistors, Ceramic Composition Resistors, Metal Film Resistors, and the list just keeps on going.

 

Doesn`t it matter how a resistor is made, as long as it is the correct value, 1 K for example?

 

If there is favoured resistors, capacitators etc. would you mind posting them Evil?

 

Btw, thanks for al the help so far. Finally I feel like I`m moving forward.

You are going to be waiting forever for the majority of your parts. Most of those listings are coming from Asia. You are also adding a lot of shipping charges. Go and buy the parts from the local country branch of places like Digikey, Mouser, or Farnell. One place, one shipping charge. The parts you picked are fine (you don't need a dual pot, but it works).

[evilc66]

Most through hole resistors that are not power resistors (not needed here) are carbon composit. It really doesn't matter what you use for the resistors. They all work the same way without getting into the nitty gritty details. Capacitors are different. Some have polarity, like electrolytics. You only need to worry yourself with ceramic with this project.

[nick-123]

Dear All,

 

I just received a ELN-60-48. It is the basic one.

 

Can I just solder the dim+/dim- wires and use them for dimming?

What is the electronic difference between the models?

 

Can someone post pictures of your dimmable meanwell driver so that it is clear what should be added or changed.

 

Many thanks,

 

Nick

[evilc66]

There are 3 versions: ELN-60-48 (non dimmable), ELN-60-48D (analong dimmable), and the ELN-60-48P (pwm dimmable). If you have either of the dimmable drivers (it's clearly marked on the label, and will have 4 wires on the output side), then what you need has been covered already ad-nausium in this thread. If you don't have the dimmable version, then you are stuck with what you have.

[nick-123]

Thanks for your reply,

 

Can I change the pcb of the device to e.g. the P version? Can you show detailed pictures of the board?

It can not be that different since the basic pcb is the same. Just a few resistors and caps are missing.

 

 

Thanks,

 

Nick

[evilc66]

There are a lot of part differences between the two. Too many to be simple to change. You would be better off selling what you have and ordering the right one.

[nick-123]

Yeah, maybe you're right.

 

Any idea where it can be had in Europe?

Schukat.de only has the bare one. Price for that one was ok I think. Around euro 27.

 

Nick

[fergas]

Look here

Those are net prices. To them you must add vat and shipping charges.

[coolwaters]

Look here

Those are net prices. To them you must add vat and shipping charges.

 

those arent constant current drivers....

 

but they are probably stabilized DC drivers so it puts less stress on the LEDs. anyone noticed their LEDs getting dim over time if they dont use a constant current driver?

[nick-123]

ELN-60-48P sold out....

[evilc66]

those arent constant current drivers....

 

but they are probably stabilized DC drivers so it puts less stress on the LEDs. anyone noticed their LEDs getting dim over time if they dont use a constant current driver?

That was just a link to Meanwell products and not intended to say "here, buy any of these".

 

ELN-60-48P sold out....

You want the ELN-60-48D, unless you are making your own controller.

[kidrobot]

sup evil i havent been keeping up on the thread. i was wondering if you ever build the circuit for the RKM-ALC?

 

Thanks

[evilc66]

Nope. Still haven't got my ALC to use for testing. It's been a little bit of a low priority recently.

[kidrobot]

oh okay thanks. ill just wait or maybe i should buy the 48D

[nick-123]

I ordered the P version from a local company.

 

Question? If I applied a pwm of zero on it, is the output then zero or 15% of max current?

 

Nick

[crazy tarzan]

Hey Evil--

 

My P version meanwells showed up with 4 wires on the output (which I expected) and 2 wires on the input (ac) side--with a 3rd wire cut down to where the cord sheathing is cut (unexpected, was waiting for the 3 wires on the input side).

 

? is: DO I need to wire a grounded plug onto the meanwell (something about working with saltwater and electricity) or can I use a 2 prong plug for them?

 

Sorry if you've answered this before, I've read the whole thread and can't remember seeing this particular question/answer. I can provide pics later if needed.

[nick-123]

I've seen pictures of on both sides cut wires. I guess they didn't want to use it and were lazy enough to order different cables or those other cable were too thin to fit in the box opening.

[evilc66]

I ordered the P version from a local company.

 

Question? If I applied a pwm of zero on it, is the output then zero or 15% of max current?

 

Nick

Zero output.

 

Hey Evil--

 

My P version meanwells showed up with 4 wires on the output (which I expected) and 2 wires on the input (ac) side--with a 3rd wire cut down to where the cord sheathing is cut (unexpected, was waiting for the 3 wires on the input side).

 

? is: DO I need to wire a grounded plug onto the meanwell (something about working with saltwater and electricity) or can I use a 2 prong plug for them?

 

Sorry if you've answered this before, I've read the whole thread and can't remember seeing this particular question/answer. I can provide pics later if needed.

No need to do anything with it. It's not connected internally anyway.

[nick-123]

Evil,

 

Thanks. Not what I would like since I'like some output to drive my driver board. Now I have to think about that. Maybe a small lipo attached to the output of the meanwell to power the muproc or perhaps, more simpler, a battery. I have to think about it since I also need 10V to drive the pwm. If I drive the pwm with e.g 3V, will that power up the output?

 

Another option might be usage of some 3-30V from within the meanwell. A schematic would be helpful.

 

Nick

[evilc66]

Just get a DC power supply to run all of the microcontroller parts. If you are into electronics, you can build a small 10v DC supply that you could install into a project box along with the drivers and the controller. The input signal for the driver has to be 10v.

[nick-123]

Yeah, that's the easiest path. But I want to minimize the amount of parts...

[evilc66]

You won't be able to run anything on the output side of the driver, and trying to tap into the circuitry in the driver is a little risky. You may run into problems with overloading certain parts of the driver with too much current draw.

[Ron99]

Just wondering if I could use a 9V battery on the dimming input of the 60-48P just to get them to fire up for testing purposes before I build my controller interface? Any thoughts would be appreciated.