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LED MeanWell power supply?


zingtaw

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Just verified from the guys on allaboutcircuits forum that the op amp will not change the frequency at all. But the op amp generally will produce more of a triangle wave rather than a square wave, but should still work. The op amp has to be run open loop. Still a digital signal.

 

However, thanks to Sgt. Wookie on the forum, I have a circuit drawing similiar to what Evil had suggested a while back. He thinks the easiest solution for still using the PIC would be to use a logic level MOSFET or a transistor on your PWM I/O pin. It apparently will would invert the logic, so that 99% ON would be 99% OFF, but that can easily be changed that programming on the Arduino.

 

1 transistor, two 1/4W 1k resistors, and a 10v Zener diode.

 

post-14691-1261246431_thumb.png

 

I am unfortunately at my in-laws this weekend and cannot build them, but will when I get home and test both to see which works the best. I think both wil probably work fine. This was info I needed to get moving on this. I hope finally put the entire led hood together over Christmas weekend and get it over the tank.

 

 

Tried this circuit and am getting a constatnt 10.8V with the 10V diode and a 12V suply. With just a 12V supply and no zener diode on the output, I cannot get the output any lower than 6V. So tried a 9V supply (which is really feedng 10.8V) and I get just below 6V on the low side and just above 8V on the high side. Not exactly what I wanted, but it is ramping up and down between 6-8.5V.

 

As suspected, the meanwell did not recognize the triangle wave produced by the op amp design. So still looking for a good solution.

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As suspected, the meanwell did not recognize the triangle wave produced by the op amp design. So still looking for a good solution.

 

What if you series an appropriate cap to round off the triangle wave?

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What if you series an appropriate cap to round off the triangle wave?

 

Would this not be the same as an active low pass filter?

 

post-14691-1262621544_thumb.png

 

This is basically a non-inverting op amp with a cap between the feedback voltage from the output.

 

Not sure if the power supply will recognize a rounded signal on the "P" models.

 

I am going to go ahead try this and see if it will work as I still think an op amp will give the widest range of (0-10V) signal and is the best in terms of real linearity. Would be very simple and I would be done if I had the "D" meanwells....

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Just a little FYI.

 

The -25% setting for 1 amp by turning SVR2 all the way counter clockwise does not set to 1 amp. It set to ~250mA.

Just got my ELN-60-48D today, and also am seeing about 250 mA through 6 LEDs at the minimum current setting of SVR2. I checked it with my multimeter set to amps, and also checked volatage across a 1 ohm resistor connected in series with the LED string. Got the same results both ways.

Also the LM317 dimmer circuit worked perfectly. It didn't give me good results when it didn't have a load, but with it hooked up to the dimmer circuit of the driver, I can get even dimming from 10V to about 1.5V. The current at 1.5V is about 150mA and at 10V is exactly 1 amp. The LEDs are actually quite brite even at 150mA.

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Well I about gave up up making the pwm circuit. Actually I did give up making it. After reassembling it on the breadboard and ensuring that everything was connected just perfect I was still only pulling 290 mA regardless of pot position. I could not get it to dim or brighten no matter what I did with the circuit. I'm sure the circuit will work for everyone else on here with the Meanwell ENL60-48P driver, just not me.

 

Reading some other things in this thread I decided to go for broke and start screwing with the internals of the meanwell and my 12v power supply. I put the 12V across the dimmer and tried adjusting SVR2 just too see what would happen. Sure enough I could run from dropout current (where the LEDs cut out so I'm calling it that right or wrong) to >1 Amp, along with noticeable dimming and brightening.

 

I haven't run this setup but for a minute or two so I can't confirm that it won't fry everything I have for this project and don't condone anyone else try this unless it is blessed by those with more knowledge. I'm mostly posting to see what others have to say about this setup.

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You did nothing wrong. As I posted (and also Gomer), the SVR2 can be adjusted down to about 250mA. So when you adjusted it, all you did was increase the max current. I set mine by putting the dimmer at 100% on, then adjusted SVR2 to get 1000mA. That will make it so that you can then use the dimmer to get anywhere between zero and 1 amp, but will not exceed one amp.

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Here's the circuit I've designed to feed PWM 0-10V to the Meanwell "P" type driver from an Arduino. I've tested yesterday with a fan and the dimming worked fine. I'll try tonight with the driver and the leds to see what happens but before that I'd like to know what you guys think about it ?

 

Thanks in advance !

post-48060-1263377446_thumb.jpg

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Looks like my circuit although I used slightly different resistor v alues and fed my fans a pwm signal as well. I am now past the prototype stage and am woking on putting everything in boxes. The arduino sure makes it easy with these LED running the P driver.

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I am about to order a pair of 48D's from nanotuners (and a pair of 34 D's for the wife next year :lol: ) and despite the wealth of info in this thread I am still a little confused on the dimming aspect. I have a bunch of wallwarts kicking around, can one of those be brought to 10v with resistors, then wired with a pot in-line or is that a big no-no? Could I use 1 wallwart for dimming 2 separate drivers independently?

 

I think I read that someone was playing around with an auto dimming of like 30 or 40 secs with caps. So when the LED's came on via a timer they would slowly get to full power instead of an instant on. I would LOVE to have that 30 second delay for both my whites and blues for both on and off . . . any idea of how that would work?

 

Thanks!

 

~Will.

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I've got 4 "D" drivers for my 2 bc29 builds and am wondering if I can dim them with the LM317 circuit. It seems like everybody's using the RKL for the "D"s and am looking for something more economical.

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VIN-----LM317---+--R3---+---VOUT		  |	 |	   |		  |	 R1	  C1		  |	 |	   |		  +-----		|		  |			 |		  R2			|		  |			 |GND-------+-------------+---GND

 

Found it a couple pages back, any idea what size C1 would be needed for like a 2 minute delay? I checked digikey for caps, but couldn't find anything suitable at .01F, any idea where to get bigger caps that will work in this application? also, could I just use 1 powersupply for 2 of these (VIN) or would I need 2 separate ones to dim 2 meanwells?

 

thanks!

 

~Will.

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You did nothing wrong. As I posted (and also Gomer), the SVR2 can be adjusted down to about 250mA. So when you adjusted it, all you did was increase the max current. I set mine by putting the dimmer at 100% on, then adjusted SVR2 to get 1000mA. That will make it so that you can then use the dimmer to get anywhere between zero and 1 amp, but will not exceed one amp.

 

 

When I set up my 8-XRE rb array on the 60-48D, I was also getting around 220mA with the SRV2 on minimum, and dimmer input at 9.14v. I expected much more current.

 

I was confused at first, but I just kept the dimmer input at 9.14 (the max that my 9v power supply will put out)---- and then while watching the multimeter amperage reading, I "eeked" up onto 960mA, which is good enough for me. I still had a lot more room to turn the SRV2 up even higher but saw no need to.

 

 

 

Just got my ELN-60-48D today, and also am seeing about 250 mA through 6 LEDs at the minimum current setting of SVR2. I checked it with my multimeter set to amps, and also checked volatage across a 1 ohm resistor connected in series with the LED string. Got the same results both ways.

Also the LM317 dimmer circuit worked perfectly. It didn't give me good results when it didn't have a load, but with it hooked up to the dimmer circuit of the driver, I can get even dimming from 10V to about 1.5V. The current at 1.5V is about 150mA and at 10V is exactly 1 amp. The LEDs are actually quite brite even at 150mA.

 

 

Seems like you had the same thing I had---- same reading of around 220-250mA. Was this at full 10v input on the dimmer switch?

 

 

You seem to have gotten perfect results with the dimmer switch. Did you turn up the SRV2 from the minimum setting?

 

 

I have to admit that these LED's aren't cheap, but MAN are they AWESOME and great ways to light a tank.

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Seems like you had the same thing I had---- same reading of around 220-250mA. Was this at full 10v input on the dimmer switch?

 

 

You seem to have gotten perfect results with the dimmer switch. Did you turn up the SRV2 from the minimum setting?

 

 

I have to admit that these LED's aren't cheap, but MAN are they AWESOME and great ways to light a tank.

Yes, I turned the dimmer all the way up (10V), then adjusted SRV2 to get 1000mA. I also cranked up the voltage SRV1 all the way. I'm running 14 LEDs off it right now at 1000mA and it's putting out 50.2V.

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Out of curiosity, why did you crank up the voltage? I thought the driver automatically sensed the voltage need and adjusted accordingly.

 

Were you getting lower-than-desired voltage readings without adjusting the SRV1?

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Yeah, the driver will only put out the required voltage. The SRV1 adjusts the max voltage it will put out. Not really sure why it's adjustable, as I don't see any usefullness to the feature...

When I hooked up the 14th LED, the voltage was maxed out at like 48V, so I wasn't getting 1000mA. I just turned SRV1 all the way up and problem fixed. I have heard others caution against this, but the meanwell spec sheet says voltage is adjustable up to 52.8V, so I saw no problem with adjusting within the specified limits.

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VIN-----LM317---+--R3---+---VOUT		  |	 |	   |		  |	 R1	  C1		  |	 |	   |		  +-----		|		  |			 |		  R2			|		  |			 |GND-------+-------------+---GND

 

Found it a couple pages back, any idea what size C1 would be needed for like a 2 minute delay? I checked digikey for caps, but couldn't find anything suitable at .01F, any idea where to get bigger caps that will work in this application? also, could I just use 1 powersupply for 2 of these (VIN) or would I need 2 separate ones to dim 2 meanwells?

 

thanks!

 

~Will.

If you get this 1F capacitor, and use around 500 ohm resistor for R3, I believe it would take about 15-20 minutes to charge. Can anyone verify this?

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Thats a 1uF, not a 1F . . . pretty big difference omgomgomg. I remember years ago when the 1 farad caps came out for car audio (to keep your lights from dimming when the bass hit) and they were the size of a couple soup cans stacked up . . . are newer ones any smaller?

 

~Will.

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I also thought it must be 1uF, but the product info says 1 Farad, and the data sheet says 1,000,000 uF. Where do you see that it is 1 uF?

 

*Edit*

Ok, I see it in the product title. But in two other places it says 1 Farad, so which is correct?

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Would this not be the same as an active low pass filter?

 

post-14691-1262621544_thumb.png

 

This is basically a non-inverting op amp with a cap between the feedback voltage from the output.

 

Not sure if the power supply will recognize a rounded signal on the "P" models.

 

I am going to go ahead try this and see if it will work as I still think an op amp will give the widest range of (0-10V) signal and is the best in terms of real linearity. Would be very simple and I would be done if I had the "D" meanwells....

 

Well this is a bit of a cop out, but I bought some "D" analog Meanwell Eln-60-48 and did an op amp circuit on a breadboard that worked perfectly. I can run my program from the arduino and it dims perfectly. So I went ahead and tested the circuit on TINA, the Texas Instruments version of Spice and smoothed the output with the correct capacitors. I ran it for a few hours and everything was great. So I designed the pcb and send it out for production of 10 prototypes. Should have them in a week. This is the circuit. Since it is RTR Op Amp, it is truly linear so you can get to both rails and actually hit 0V and step up to the Vdd (op amp regulated power supply). So If I put on 9V PS, you get 0-9V. If I use a 12V supply, I get 0-12V. The op amp can take up to 16V. But for our uses, a 9V or a 10V PS works with the meanwells, In fact, can get the leds to run at less than .5V. So I full control over the dimming.

 

 

# Quantity Label Value

1. 1 C3 .01uf

2. 1 C4 .01uf

3. 1 R1 10k

4. 1 R5 10k

5. 1 C1 .1uf

6. 1 R4 4.02k

7. 1 VG1 0-5V

8. 1 C2 6.8uf

9. 1 V1 9V

10. 1 RTR Op Amp TLV272

 

 

post-14691-1263655113_thumb.jpg

 

The board:

 

Spark_Dual_Op_Amp.pdf

 

I am going to test with the "P" models as well, but I am back to drawing board for this circuit. It is going to be less straight forward. I was going to use a charge pump, but you cannot find one that goes below 2.5V. It does not seem to see the op amp triangle wave, and the transistor circuit tried gave a constant 10V (with a diode). Without the diode, I could only get down just below 5V and up to 10V. So once I finish this and have it above my tank, I will come up a good "pwm voltage doubler" that give a true 0-10V.

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Hi,

 

I am not an expert on electronics but regarding the dimming of the D model: Would'nt it be easier to take a fix voltage regulator instead of the lm317?.

I mean: Hook up a cheap 12V powersupply to an 7810 with a pot behind it and voila.

 

Cheers,

Nikolas

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I think I read that someone was playing around with an auto dimming of like 30 or 40 secs with caps. So when the LED's came on via a timer they would slowly get to full power instead of an instant on. I would LOVE to have that 30 second delay for both my whites and blues for both on and off . . . any idea of how that would work?

 

 

I'm not an expert in electronics neither, but I think that this circuit will do the job. It will give auto dimming feature to "D" version of "Mean Well". I haven't the leds yet, so I cant test it, but I think it will work.

 

You will need a 12 to 15V transformer to supply the circuit.

It will auto dimm from 0 to 10V and from 10 to 0V. You must have a timer with a relay where you can connect 0V, 12V and send it to the circuit.

After an action from the timer, the circuit will start to increase or decrease the signal to the Mean Well, at a rate that you can change with pot R2, from some seconds to more that an hour.

I've used half of a lm358 to the dimming circuit, and used the other to switch off or on the Mean Well. If you only need the dimming circuit you can use a lm741 instead of the 358.

 

post-49796-1264262710_thumb.jpg

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