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Automated Reef Controller Build


Vancouver Reefer

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I've never found Future to be quick with my orders. I usually order from Digikey. If you order before 1:00PM they usually can ship the next day.

 

OTOH Future is the Luxeon LED dealer. When I bought Rebel LEDs i went with http://luxeonstar.com/. They were slightly more than Future, but shipped quickly and told me if there were any parts that would be backordered.

 

 

Cheers

NRG

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I've never found Future to be quick with my orders. I usually order from Digikey. If you order before 1:00PM they usually can ship the next day.

 

OTOH Future is the Luxeon LED dealer. When I bought Rebel LEDs i went with http://luxeonstar.com/. They were slightly more than Future, but shipped quickly and told me if there were any parts that would be backordered.

 

 

Cheers

NRG

 

Thats not Future Electronics. It's Futurlec. Totally different. But I agree, Future isn't the fastest.

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It's a nice alternative to bluetooth, but what applications do you think would need this? I don't see much of a need for wireless in an aquarium setting, unless I'm missing something.

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I've had pretty good luck with it so far, just learning thebasics and getting the hang of solid state AC relays, optoisolators, and the like. Fortunately for me there's a place called "You Do It Electronics" right near where I work, which is like an electronics tinkerer's heaven, as far as parts go. I was pretty interested in the ultrasonic rangefinder idea initially, but so far the only ones I've found don't seem to be sensitive enough. I will have to give it a try though, maybe the stated sensitivity is conservative.

for example, this one(sparkfun part number SEN-08502 if the link doesn't work):

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_i...roducts_id=8502

claims to resolve from 0-255 inches in 1 inch increments. That MIGHT be good enough, but I'm not sure... 1" is kind of a lot of leeway for water level.

 

here's another try at the capacitive sensor board I was trying to show you (sparkfun part number SEN-07918):

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_i...roducts_id=7918

 

Finally, I think the simplest (conductivity) style of sensing will probably be the best. I'd likely set it up to check ever 15 minutes or so, then if it detects low water, kick into a separate function, which will refill and monitor continuously until the correct level is restored, then drop back into the monitoring function.

 

I'm glad some others are messing around with this stuff, it'll mean some great resources down the road...

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Vancouver Reefer

Keep us posted on what you find out and how sensitive they are and how well they work.

 

For me the price of the sensor places them out of my range. Because my controller is now snowballing i have to keep a close eye on cost of components, Especially if im going to help other people make/buy one of these.

 

VR

 

 

I've had pretty good luck with it so far, just learning thebasics and getting the hang of solid state AC relays, optoisolators, and the like. Fortunately for me there's a place called "You Do It Electronics" right near where I work, which is like an electronics tinkerer's heaven, as far as parts go. I was pretty interested in the ultrasonic rangefinder idea initially, but so far the only ones I've found don't seem to be sensitive enough. I will have to give it a try though, maybe the stated sensitivity is conservative.

for example, this one(sparkfun part number SEN-08502 if the link doesn't work):

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_i...roducts_id=8502

claims to resolve from 0-255 inches in 1 inch increments. That MIGHT be good enough, but I'm not sure... 1" is kind of a lot of leeway for water level.

 

here's another try at the capacitive sensor board I was trying to show you (sparkfun part number SEN-07918):

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_i...roducts_id=7918

 

Finally, I think the simplest (conductivity) style of sensing will probably be the best. I'd likely set it up to check ever 15 minutes or so, then if it detects low water, kick into a separate function, which will refill and monitor continuously until the correct level is restored, then drop back into the monitoring function.

 

I'm glad some others are messing around with this stuff, it'll mean some great resources down the road...

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Vancouver Reefer

LOL, tell me about it!!!

 

For saying my component list has gone from about 50 items to over 350 in a week on my controller alone, ive got to be careful, especially since i have not even started to purchase my tank and equipment yet!!!

 

But i think it will be a good future project to look into!! Ill add it to the future project list:

 

Controller link to internet/text indications.

Stepper motor dosing pumps.

Ultra-sonic range sensing.

 

:o VR

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I'm starting to think the best way to do a really low profile ATO without float switches is to do a basic HIGH/LOW switch using the saltwater as a conductor between titanium electrodes. They would only have to be a few mm apart and with 5VDC at extremely low amperage I can't see causing any major issues. (See LFP thread about using low voltage DC to actually encourage coral growth on that other big reefing website..) However to not have it continuously pumping current into the reef you could set a delay so it only tests every 4 hours. (8 times a day with 5VDC going through water for only milliseconds) I'm sure someone will disagree with me but it is such a simple solution, especially with the availability of titanium welding rods I think is is a solution that should not be overlooked. If you already have an arduino the whole thing could be set up in 20 min for about $15. My .02

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Titanium welding rods contain a lot more alloys than just titanium. You want something purer like Grade 2 or 6AL-4V. Grade 2 is almost 99% pure.

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Vancouver Reefer

Ive put together a webpage documenting my progress on the build of this controller.

 

Its mainly aimed at my friends and family, so ive put it into as plain English as i can

 

Rather than spend time writing 2 threads i will just update on here when i have added more to my site.

 

Ive used a couple of photos from here as your pics do a really good job of showing what im talking about. I hope you dont mind!!

 

Enjoy:

 

http://richardorme1979.googlepages.com/home

 

VR

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Vancouver Reefer

Ok so how many of you spent hours drawing out the circuits on Eagle to then realise you only get an 80mm x 100 pcb to put it all on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Now what do i do!!!!! aaahhhhh

 

No way am i paying $400 for a license!!!! Thieving Bas**rds!!!!

 

:slap:

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neanderthalman
Ok so how many of you spent hours drawing out the circuits on Eagle to then realise you only get an 80mm x 100 pcb to put it all on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Now what do i do!!!!! aaahhhhh

 

No way am i paying $400 for a license!!!! Thieving Bas**rds!!!!

 

:slap:

 

Never had an issue with keeping things within that boundary. Sometimes it takes a little tweaking to get highly efficient routing. Consider using a double-sided board and surface mount components if you need even more space.

 

If you post your eagle file, I might be able to help tighten it up on the board. :)

 

 

 

For some of us, the "Do It Yoursef" part is the point, the end result being merely a bonus.

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