The Biocube Resource Guide

[benoitcdc]

I finally got my tank running! After several delays (one of which was a flooded basement, not from the tank) I was finally able to set the tank up this past Saturday July 10th.

 

Contents So Far: 30lbs. Bimini Pink Carib Sea Live Sand, ~29lbs Cured Live Rock, DI H20

 

The heater has been on, however, I am still uncertain regarding use of the lighting during the cycling process. Is it necessary? If so, how long should the lights be on for? (I came to find out that I need a new Actinic bulb already! I turned it on a few times for minutes at a time then nothing.)

 

Its not necessary to run the lights during the cycling period but if you want to turn them on, stair into the tank and day dream, (can you tell I've done that more than once ) it won't do any harm. Check and make sure its the bulb and not the ballast. You can do this by switching the bulbs around or my switching the ballasts around. If your actinic turns back on then its the ballast, if it doesn't, its the bulb.

 

I have left the stock filter cartridge in the back chamber (even though it has slid all of the way to the bottom since I removed the false floor) figuring it could stay in there for a week or so to help polish the water since it was so cloudy from the sand/rock. I also removed the tab and have placed filter fiber on top of the drip tray. All of the bioballs have been removed, however, I have also left the sponge in chamber 3 until I replace the stock pump.

 

IMO, I would pull the stock filter. You are probably not getting any filtering if the water is flowing around it. The filter floss in chamber 2 should be sufficient. If you leave the sponge in, take it out weekly and rinse it. Some debris will collect in it over time.

 

Should I be dosing calcium, magnesium, iodine, stronium, or seachem reef builder during the cycling process? I know I shouldn't be using any filter media (I have purchased carbon, purigen, and chemipure elite). I will be adding cheeto this coming saturday.

 

Don't dose anything until the cycling is completed and then, only dose what you test for. I'd use the filter floss for filtering right now though. Hold off on using the other media for now until the cycling is done and you add live stock. The cheato should be ok.

 

What should my water changes consist of during the cycling process? 10% a week? More?

 

Good question. Some folks say changing it on a regular basis during cycling is a good thing, others say it doesn't make a difference. I am of the opinion water changes don't make a difference during cycling. You want the ammonia and nitrites to spike then drop. I have cycled all of my tanks without water changes and when it was time to add live stock, I would test the water and if it was off, do a water changes, if the water parameters were good, no water change. Now once you start adding live stock, then start doing water changes.

 

Thank you very much for your help, I am very familiar with freshwater tanks and have had atleast one at all times throughout my life, however, this is my first saltwater endeavor so I want to get off on the right foot.

 

Well, that's my 0.02.

[Krazy_Karl]

Well, that's my 0.02.

 

Yea I have definitely been doing some day dreaming staring at the tank with the light on! Haha. The only reason I ask regarding lighting is because I have some nice coraline algae on some of the rocks and I dont want it to die off. Yea I actually made sure to check whether it was the bulb or ballast prior to posting. I plugged the actinic into the other ballast and it was still a no go.

 

Thank you for your response! I will pull the filter cartridge and rinse the sponge this week. I figured that water changes were pointless during cycling but I'm still on the fence about it.

[Krazy_Karl]

Picled up the cheato today instead. This might be complete hogwash but has anyone heard that glass let's more of the light through to the tank than the plastic barrior between the lights and tank? A guy at my lfs told me that he cut out the majority of the plexi and replaced it with glass. Make sense to anyone?

[benoitcdc]

Picled up the cheato today instead. This might be complete hogwash but has anyone heard that glass let's more of the light through to the tank than the plastic barrior between the lights and tank? A guy at my lfs told me that he cut out the majority of the plexi and replaced it with glass. Make sense to anyone?

 

 

Hi Krazy_Karl,

 

It sounds like you have done some trouble shooting before. Yeah, if you want to keep the coraline algae then you will need the lights on. I've lost my lights for a couple of days (none of the LFS had replacement bulbs) and on the end of the 3rd day when I got the lights back on a lot of the coraline had turned white and died. Don't sweat the water change. I don't think you can go wrong either way.

 

Yeah, glass allows more light to be transmitted through it than plastic. I'd have to go back through my physics books again to find the explanation for it but if I remember correctly, it has something to do with refractive index and the transparency of the material.

[deepair3]

Well, here is the fish guard I put in the other week. Originally, I had blue sponge blocks set up on the back but they got dirty fairly quickly. I like this set up much better. Its rain gutter guard that I picked up at HD and I just cut it to fit. I cut it a little wider than the opening so it would spring/bow up ward.

 

 

May be a stupid question but what is the name of the coral growing on the back wall and how can I encourage that type of coverage?

[benoitcdc]

May be a stupid question but what is the name of the coral growing on the back wall and how can I encourage that type of coverage?

 

Hi deepair3,

 

There are no stupid questions here. Its a green star polyp (gsp). It was growing on the top back rock and just climbed up the back wall. GSPs are pretty easy to maintain. Like most softies, the do well with low light and decent water quality. Good water quality is always better though. GSPs tend to spread fairly easily, just lean it up against the back and let it grow. I've seen some folks just take a piece and either glue it to the back wall or use rubber bands and wrap them around an unusual shape rock or decroative piece. HTH

[Krazy_Karl]

Now that you mention it, I seem to remember that lesson on th refractive propertes of light. Maybe it's a mod in my future, although I plan on upgrading to a sunpod eventually and in the meantime I'll prob use a coralife aqualight that I acquired (2x65watt bulbs).

 

I hve also been looking around for clean up crews (trying to stay 1 step ahead) what do people recommend for the 29 gallon? I know several posts on this thread recommended snails more than crabs.

[benoitcdc]

Now that you mention it, I seem to remember that lesson on th refractive propertes of light. Maybe it's a mod in my future, although I plan on upgrading to a sunpod eventually and in the meantime I'll prob use a coralife aqualight that I acquired (2x65watt bulbs).

 

I hve also been looking around for clean up crews (trying to stay 1 step ahead) what do people recommend for the 29 gallon? I know several posts on this thread recommended snails more than crabs.

For a CUC you are probably looking at abut 15-20 snails and maybe some hermit crabs. A lot of folks don't care for crabs because they can go after snails and coral if they get hungry. For snails, look at getting some cerith, Nassarius, Nerites, and maybe a turbo or 2 later on. If you get any hermits get the blue Leg Hermit Crab, they tend to eat algae as well.

 

That sounds like an interesting mod for the lights. Make sure you post some pictures.

[TheMac86]

For a CUC you are probably looking at abut 15-20 snails and maybe some hermit crabs. A lot of folks don't care for crabs because they can go after snails and coral if they get hungry ar. For snails, look at getting some cerith, Nassarius, Nerites, and maybe a turbo or 2 later on. If you get any hermits get the blue Leg Hermit Crab, they tend to eat algae as well.

 

That sounds like an interesting mod for the lights. Make sure you post some pictures.

 

Get the red scarlet reef hermit crabs they are very docile and rarely attack snails. Leave empty shells on the sand bed so that they can alternate shells when they grow out. I have two in a BC14 and they are always cleaning the sand bed and rocks.

[Krazy_Karl]

Looks like I have diatom algae growing on the sand (brown layer). Time to get the cuc right?

[benoitcdc]

Looks like I have diatom algae growing on the sand (brown layer). Time to get the cuc right?

Yup. Check your water parameters before you put them in.

[mkizz]

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=243232

[Krazy_Karl]

Went to bed last night, the water was nice and clear. When I woke up today it's extremely cloudy, thought it might be the sand kicked up but after a few hours it still hasn't settle any. Any idea what would cause this? Parameters are all 0. Salinity was a little low at 1.21.

[skeeters]

Can any of you BC29 experts help me out on this.

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...=0#entry2938963

[Krazy_Karl]

Water is clear! No idea what that was all about.

 

Since I never replaced te actinic bulb I was wondeing if anyone has used the Current bulbs on foster and smith. Do they fit or do you have to get the coralife biocube bulbs?

 

Here's the link:

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/prod...mp;pcatid=13314

[benoitcdc]

Water is clear! No idea what that was all about.

 

Since I never replaced te actinic bulb I was wondeing if anyone has used the Current bulbs on foster and smith. Do they fit or do you have to get the coralife biocube bulbs?

 

Here's the link:

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/prod...mp;pcatid=13314

Glad to hear your water cleared up. It sounds like something stirred it up. I replaced my actinic when it burned out with a 50/50 Coralife 24w bulb from one of our lfs. It fit fine. You should be fine with the one from Smith and Fosters.

[RussianBoy]

Ok so I need some help from all of you professionals, I am going to be buying a biocube 14g on monday to start my very own reef, i am beyond excited. I have never done a salt tank, I raise leopard geckos, 33 hermit crabs and a fresh water tank, but I am starting a new project/hobby. I love this tank but I see all these modifications and I just don't know what to think or do. I worry most about everyone talking about the filter mods, and the pump and so on, so please could people instruct me what to do, before I get the tank running if I need to change things. I am very handy and know my electronics but on a budget cause most of the money is going to the tank. I was going to get a protein skimmer, and the UV sterilizer, and one of those flo pumps to move the water around more, but I don't know if I should or how to mod the filter for best performance. I read a lot of posts and it's all hebrew to me...... :-( sorry but I could really use the help.

[Krazy_Karl]

Ok so I need some help from all of you professionals, I am going to be buying a biocube 14g on monday to start my very own reef, i am beyond excited. I have never done a salt tank, I raise leopard geckos, 33 hermit crabs and a fresh water tank, but I am starting a new project/hobby. I love this tank but I see all these modifications and I just don't know what to think or do. I worry most about everyone talking about the filter mods, and the pump and so on, so please could people instruct me what to do, before I get the tank running if I need to change things. I am very handy and know my electronics but on a budget cause most of the money is going to the tank. I was going to get a protein skimmer, and the UV sterilizer, and one of those flo pumps to move the water around more, but I don't know if I should or how to mod the filter for best performance. I read a lot of posts and it's all hebrew to me...... :-( sorry but I could really use the help.

 

I'm relatively new to this tank but I would have a few suggestions I can make just through my short experience. I did a few of the mods before the tank was setup and it worked a lot better since you can maneuver around it easier and theres no water.

1. Cut the tab between chamber 1 and 2 (I used a hacksaw blade).

2. Buy the filter floss, its economical and effective. (Toss the stock filter pad)

3. If you are planning on running a "fuge" in chamber two with some cheato like I am then you either need a couple submersible LED's (which I have) or you need to scrape the paint off the back of the tank to shine a light in (I think if I were to do it again I would go with the latter since you can shine a much brighter light there).

4. Id say stick with the stock pump for a while (I just upgraded mine after about a month). When youre cycling its perfectly adequate and easily replaceable. You can also wait on the powerhead but its nice to have the flow early in my opinion to prevent algae.

5. I have no experience with either the UV or the skimmer, but I havnt needed them yet.

 

Good luck.

[benoitcdc]

Ok so I need some help from all of you professionals, I am going to be buying a biocube 14g on monday to start my very own reef, i am beyond excited. I have never done a salt tank, I raise leopard geckos, 33 hermit crabs and a fresh water tank, but I am starting a new project/hobby. I love this tank but I see all these modifications and I just don't know what to think or do. I worry most about everyone talking about the filter mods, and the pump and so on, so please could people instruct me what to do, before I get the tank running if I need to change things. I am very handy and know my electronics but on a budget cause most of the money is going to the tank. I was going to get a protein skimmer, and the UV sterilizer, and one of those flo pumps to move the water around more, but I don't know if I should or how to mod the filter for best performance. I read a lot of posts and it's all hebrew to me...... :-( sorry but I could really use the help.

+1 to what Krazy_Karl mentioned. There aren't to many mods to do but cutting the tab, making a rack to place on top of chamber 2 for the filter floss, and removing the false floor in chamber 1. If you are getting one of the newer BC14s there may be a clear area on the back of chamber two to mount a light and you won't have to scrape any of the paint off. Also, with the new BCs, there are some additional slots and or openings in the chamber walls that many folks cover/block. The only other change I would make right away is to replace the stock fans with something better. The stock fans usually start making loud noises after about 6 moths or so. You may also want to consider cutting a hole in the back wall of the hood for a fan to help with cooling, but you can do either one after the tank is filled if you want.

 

If this is your first salt water tank and you want corals I would start of with the softies first. The lights in the BCs are ok for softies most lps. If you want something that requires more light late on you can add to the stock lights or replace them with metal halides or LEDs. You do don't over stock your BC14 or over feed, and you do regular water changes, you really don't need a skimmer. I wouldn't worry about using a UV sterilizer just yet. If you practice good husbandry you shouldn't have to use one. The stock pump is good for just starting. When you start getting into lps and sps then you can upgrade to a pump with more flow. A small power head would be a good addition to the tank, something like a Karolla nano or 1.

 

One of the things you can't do in this hobby is rush. Especially in the beginning. You will need time to get the biological filter system going. Look at 1- 1 1/2 lbs of live rock per gallon of water, let the tank run for a month (2 would be better), feed it with a raw deli shrimp or some type of fish food to get the nitrogen cycle started and then when all your water parameters are good, start to add your live stock a few at a time (about 6 week interval is my preference so you don't over load the bio filter). With a tank this size you are looking at about keeping 2-3 fish. The rule of thumb is 1" of fish per 5 gallons of water. You will need to take into consideration the size of the adult fish and of any special requirements that fish may need. Others may do things differently. Here is an article on cycling. Its pretty good at explaining what happens and why it takes time. Its myth # 15.

 

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-01/eb/index.php

 

Well, that should be enough to get you going if not cause more questions LOL . While you are waiting for your tank to cycle, you can do lots of reading and research. Check out the Beginners Discussion forum and ready the threads in there. That will give you lots of good info as well. HTH

[RussianBoy]

+1 to what Krazy_Karl mentioned. There aren't to many mods to do but cutting the tab, making a rack to place on top of chamber 2 for the filter floss, and removing the false floor in chamber 1. If you are getting one of the newer BC14s there may be a clear area on the back of chamber two to mount a light and you won't have to scrape any of the paint off. Also, with the new BCs, there are some additional slots and or openings in the chamber walls that many folks cover/block. The only other change I would make right away is to replace the stock fans with something better. The stock fans usually start making loud noises after about 6 moths or so. You may also want to consider cutting a hole in the back wall of the hood for a fan to help with cooling, but you can do either one after the tank is filled if you want.

 

If this is your first salt water tank and you want corals I would start of with the softies first. The lights in the BCs are ok for softies most lps. If you want something that requires more light late on you can add to the stock lights or replace them with metal halides or LEDs. You do don't over stock your BC14 or over feed, and you do regular water changes, you really don't need a skimmer. I wouldn't worry about using a UV sterilizer just yet. If you practice good husbandry you shouldn't have to use one. The stock pump is good for just starting. When you start getting into lps and sps then you can upgrade to a pump with more flow. A small power head would be a good addition to the tank, something like a Karolla nano or 1.

 

One of the things you can't do in this hobby is rush. Especially in the beginning. You will need time to get the biological filter system going. Look at 1- 1 1/2 lbs of live rock per gallon of water, let the tank run for a month (2 would be better), feed it with a raw deli shrimp or some type of fish food to get the nitrogen cycle started and then when all your water parameters are good, start to add your live stock a few at a time (about 6 week interval is my preference so you don't over load the bio filter). With a tank this size you are looking at about keeping 2-3 fish. The rule of thumb is 1" of fish per 5 gallons of water. You will need to take into consideration the size of the adult fish and of any special requirements that fish may need. Others may do things differently. Here is an article on cycling. Its pretty good at explaining what happens and why it takes time. Its myth # 15.

 

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-01/eb/index.php

 

Well, that should be enough to get you going if not cause more questions LOL . While you are waiting for your tank to cycle, you can do lots of reading and research. Check out the Beginners Discussion forum and ready the threads in there. That will give you lots of good info as well. HTH

Thanks so much, I have been talking a lot to the InTank guy too, who has given me a lot of great advice, I know it will take time and I am excited to get it started but I will be patient with it all. I am going to do most mods before I even get water in teh tank cause I don't want to risk messing up the water and having to start over. Thinking about using media basket, filter floss, chem pure and purigen.

[chrssprngs]

There are lots of different opinions on the best way to set up your tank. You are taking the right approach. Important not to get caught up in advice from mutiple sources. Stevie T is taking the time to walk you through it which is great. Follow his advice and you will be on your way to a successful tank that you will be proud of.

[Krazy_Karl]

Im on the verge of buying a 20" Sunpod for my 29 gallon. How bad is the heat issue with this light?

[benoitcdc]

Thanks so much, I have been talking a lot to the InTank guy too, who has given me a lot of great advice, I know it will take time and I am excited to get it started but I will be patient with it all. I am going to do most mods before I even get water in teh tank cause I don't want to risk messing up the water and having to start over. Thinking about using media basket, filter floss, chem pure and purigen.

Glad to help. StevieT is a good guy and has some good products. I don't think you can go wrong with the media basket. Make sure you post some pictures once you get your tank and start setting it up. Oh, and have fun.

[floridian reefer]

add me please, link in signature, thanks

[floridian reefer]

whats a good replace pump for the 29 that will use less wattage, and has any done this and seen a drop in temp?