Jump to content
uwwmatt

The Biocube Resource Guide

Recommended Posts

benoitcdc
I currently have a bag of carbon in chamber 3 that's going to come out once I get everything from Stevie T. It sits on the pump and I keep my water level at the maximum line so it's easier for me to control water evaporation. It does cover the bag of carbon at the max level, so I shouldn't see a problem if not would it be ok to put in 1st chamber? Thanks again for all your help :)

It will work in chamber 1 as well. Just make sure you give the heater plenty of room for water flow.

Share this post


Link to post
abe88

Hey everyone!

 

So i am new here and I have a question for you all I am interested in upgrading the flow in my tank, and I notice a lot of talk about the rio 6 in chamber three but the oceanic stock pump puts out 243 gph compared to the rio's 200 so why the rio?

Share this post


Link to post
spanko

Not the Rio6, the Rio 6hf. This at 350 gph.

Share this post


Link to post
abe88

Oh okay that makes more sense lol. Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
reefbike

Well, I'm at about day 10 since adding my

live rock. It's been hard for me to tell by

those color charts just how much ammonia

I had at around a week or so and there's been

NO traces of nitrite(that ones easy to read).

I never put in a raw shrimp or fish food and am wondering

if I should at this point and start a new cycle???

Or just continue checking nitrite? Ishould note

I have noticed some brown algae building up

on the sand bed. Any advice or tips would

be appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
benoitcdc
Well, I'm at about day 10 since adding my

live rock. It's been hard for me to tell by

those color charts just how much ammonia

I had at around a week or so and there's been

NO traces of nitrite(that ones easy to read).

I never put in a raw shrimp or fish food and am wondering

if I should at this point and start a new cycle???

Or just continue checking nitrite? Ishould note

I have noticed some brown algae building up

on the sand bed. Any advice or tips would

be appreciated.

Throw in a raw deli shrimp or feed the tank with fish food every other day. Your life rock has bacteria in it but it will die off if you don't feed it. If there is no ammonia source there won't be any cycling. The brown algae is part of a new tank cycling. Do partial water changes and use RO/DI water and the diatoms will go away. HTH

Share this post


Link to post
gdayskippy

Does anyone have instructions on how to remove the lid from the 14g biocube ? I plan on using a sunpod for this and removing the hood with stock lighting.

Share this post


Link to post
uwwmatt
Does anyone have instructions on how to remove the lid from the 14g biocube ? I plan on using a sunpod for this and removing the hood with stock lighting.

 

The hood is attached using 2 hinge pins. Just pop them out, if they are really tough you may need a pliers, or you can put a screwdriver in one side and hit it with a hammer to ram the pin out.

Share this post


Link to post
gdayskippy
The hood is attached using 2 hinge pins. Just pop them out, if they are really tough you may need a pliers, or you can put a screwdriver in one side and hit it with a hammer to ram the pin out.

 

Much appreciated on the info.

Share this post


Link to post
reefbike
Throw in a raw deli shrimp or feed the tank with fish food every other day. Your life rock has bacteria in it but it will die off if you don't feed it. If there is no ammonia source there won't be any cycling. The brown algae is part of a new tank cycling. Do partial water changes and use RO/DI water and the diatoms will go away. HTH

 

 

I take it raw fish would be as good? Having sushi for dinner.... plenty of raw fish but no raw shrimp.....

Share this post


Link to post
JayEeeTeeEss

Hello everybody. I've been lurking around the NR for a couple months now and have come across this thread many times. Tonight I decided to read through the whole thing. This is an amazing resource for the BC community and we are lucky to have it... I read through because I am looking for information on the LED upgrade from nanotuners.com. I posted this in the lighting thread and didn't get any responses except for my own bump. I'm going to give it try on here!!......

 

I'm in need of a lighting upgrade and have been monitoring the T5 retro thread that is coming out from nano-tuners.com. If these had been available weeks ago I would have purchased them already as well as 1 or 2 LED strips for supplemental blue and shimmer. However, all this time waiting for them has made me start seriously considering the 5.6 LED Retro instead. My logic was that supposedly the T5 retro is going to cast about $250 so with the LED strips it would cost around $350 (just rough figures not including shipping). The 5.6 LED retro costs abut $500. Once I change the bulbs on the T5 kit i'm almost at the cost of the LED's. Is my logic off???? haha

 

What is everyone's opinion on this retro kit?

Is it worth the money?

Easy to install?

Any downfalls?

Should I stick with the T5 upgrade and 2 LED supplement strips or go for the 5.6 LED????

 

Any input would be amazing!!!

 

Question #2

 

Does anyone recommend a skimmer that fits into chamber 1 with a closed stock hood besides the BC skimmer. I have the BC skimmer and although it is better than nothing I am not thrilled with it.

 

Question #3

 

If i get the MP10 would the upgraded return pump still be recommended or will the MP10 eliminate all dead spots?

Edited by JayEeeTeeEss

Share this post


Link to post
benoitcdc
I take it raw fish would be as good? Having sushi for dinner.... plenty of raw fish but no raw shrimp.....

Yup, sushi will work too. :) That reminds me of an internet joke about finding Nemo. They had a picture of him wraped up in sushi.

Share this post


Link to post
benoitcdc
Hello everybody. I've been lurking around the NR for a couple months now and have come across this thread many times. Tonight I decided to read through the whole thing. This is an amazing resource for the BC community and we are lucky to have it... I read through because I am looking for information on the LED upgrade from nanotuners.com. I posted this in the lighting thread and didn't get any responses except for my own bump. I'm going to give it try on here!!......

 

I'm in need of a lighting upgrade and have been monitoring the T5 retro thread that is coming out from nano-tuners.com. If these had been available weeks ago I would have purchased them already as well as 1 or 2 LED strips for supplemental blue and shimmer. However, all this time waiting for them has made me start seriously considering the 5.6 LED Retro instead. My logic was that supposedly the T5 retro is going to cast about $250 so with the LED strips it would cost around $350 (just rough figures not including shipping). The 5.6 LED retro costs abut $500. Once I change the bulbs on the T5 kit i'm almost at the cost of the LED's. Is my logic off???? haha

 

What is everyone's opinion on this retro kit?

Is it worth the money?

Easy to install?

Any downfalls?

Should I stick with the T5 upgrade and 2 LED supplement strips or go for the 5.6 LED????

 

Any input would be amazing!!!

 

Question #2

 

Does anyone recommend a skimmer that fits into chamber 1 with a closed stock hood besides the BC skimmer. I have the BC skimmer and although it is better than nothing I am not thrilled with it.

 

Question #3

 

If i get the MP10 would the upgraded return pump still be recommended or will the MP10 eliminate all dead spots?

I don't have any experience with LEDs yet but from what I have been reading on this site and others, LEDS are the way to go albeit the high initial start up cost. You can get some good light into your tank without the heat and with less energy. Others here have gone/made LEDs, I'm sure they will jump in and share their experiences. $350 sounds about right for a BC LED upgrade.

 

Sapphire makes a good skimmer but I don't know about it fitting into chamber 1. I've seen them mostly in chamber 2. I don't have a skimmer for my BC 14 yet but I do regular water changes and that works for me.

 

If you get the MP 10, I would keep your return pump. If you have your BC set up like most folks you will still need water flow through the back chambers for mechanical filtering, skimmer, and media box if you use one. Plus, you can point the return towards the surface for surface agitation and better gas exchange. HTH

Share this post


Link to post
reefbike

How much water do you guys/gals top off with day to day on the BC14?

I'm not noticing much evap. yet and started with just 2 cups? Sound about right?

Share this post


Link to post
benoitcdc
How much water do you guys/gals top off with day to day on the BC14?

I'm not noticing much evap. yet and started with just 2 cups? Sound about right?

Yeah, that sounds about right. I have my water levels about an inch below the chamber walls. That gives me a little more water volume, less water fall noise in chamber 2, and it gives me volume to cover the purgen bag in chamber 3. When I open the hood every other day or so to change out the filter floss, I cheek the water level and add as appropriate.

Share this post


Link to post
reefbike

Well, my next disturbing discovery: I've been making rodi water with well water and after mixing up

a gallon of saltwater with instant ocean found that my phosphates are off the chart!!! I guess rodi s

don't filter out phosphates? WTH? I'm getting a reading of 10ppm! Does Phosban and

similar products take care of this

type of thing and how and where are people using it? Thanks again, Jim.

Share this post


Link to post
JayEeeTeeEss
Hello everybody. I've been lurking around the NR for a couple months now and have come across this thread many times. Tonight I decided to read through the whole thing. This is an amazing resource for the BC community and we are lucky to have it... I read through because I am looking for information on the LED upgrade from nanotuners.com. I posted this in the lighting thread and didn't get any responses except for my own bump. I'm going to give it try on here!!......

 

I'm in need of a lighting upgrade and have been monitoring the T5 retro thread that is coming out from nano-tuners.com. If these had been available weeks ago I would have purchased them already as well as 1 or 2 LED strips for supplemental blue and shimmer. However, all this time waiting for them has made me start seriously considering the 5.6 LED Retro instead. My logic was that supposedly the T5 retro is going to cast about $250 so with the LED strips it would cost around $350 (just rough figures not including shipping). The 5.6 LED retro costs abut $500. Once I change the bulbs on the T5 kit i'm almost at the cost of the LED's. Is my logic off???? haha

 

What is everyone's opinion on this retro kit?

Is it worth the money?

Easy to install?

Any downfalls?

Should I stick with the T5 upgrade and 2 LED supplement strips or go for the 5.6 LED????

 

Any input would be amazing!!!

 

Question #2

 

Does anyone recommend a skimmer that fits into chamber 1 with a closed stock hood besides the BC skimmer. I have the BC skimmer and although it is better than nothing I am not thrilled with it.

 

Question #3

 

If i get the MP10 would the upgraded return pump still be recommended or will the MP10 eliminate all dead spots?

 

BUMP!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
benoitcdc
Well, my next disturbing discovery: I've been making rodi water with well water and after mixing up

a gallon of saltwater with instant ocean found that my phosphates are off the chart!!! I guess rodi s

don't filter out phosphates? WTH? I'm getting a reading of 10ppm! Does Phosban and

similar products take care of this

type of thing and how and where are people using it? Thanks again, Jim.

Jim, you shouldn't be getting any phosphates in your RO/DI water. This might be a dumb question, but are you collecting the RO/DI water or are you collecting the wast water. This happens more than you think. If you already have the water in the tank, Phosban will help remove it. How old are your filters and about how much water have you filtered so far?

Share this post


Link to post
reefbike
Jim, you shouldn't be getting any phosphates in your RO/DI water. This might be a dumb question, but are you collecting the RO/DI water or are you collecting the wast water. This happens more than you think. If you already have the water in the tank, Phosban will help remove it. How old are your filters and about how much water have you filtered so far?

 

It's a new system (coralife pro 2)... I've discarded at least the first 10 gallons. I've heard about

the waste and pure water tubes being wrong. Mine produces at about a 3:1 ratio waste:pure. Does

that sound right? I guess I'll check phosphates on the red(waste) tube and see what I get... This is

getting frustrating. Don't these things usually produce more waste water or can it be the other way

around? It would be nice if it were something that simple...Mines hooked up to a spigot in my

basement. I'm making some water now.... The bummer part of this (if the lines are wrong) is that

I've already used some water from this system for my freshwater tank(and top offs for the BC) and I have lost a fish in the fresh tank....

Edited by reefbike

Share this post


Link to post
benoitcdc
It's a new system (coralife pro 2)... I've discarded at least the first 10 gallons. I've heard about

the waste and pure water tubes being wrong. Mine produces at about a 3:1 ratio waste:pure. Does

that sound right? I guess I'll check phosphates on the red(waste) tube and see what I get... This is

getting frustrating. Don't these things usually produce more waste water or can it be the other way

around? It would be nice if it were something that simple...Mines hooked up to a spigot in my

basement. I'm making some water now.... The bummer part of this (if the lines are wrong) is that

I've already used some water from this system for my freshwater tank(and top offs for the BC) and I have lost a fish in the fresh tank....

I can understand the frustration. Been there and have done that many times. I'd say try not to let it get to you but that never seemed to work for me. In the end for me was a lesson learned. The 3:1 wast to RO/DI water ration is right. I know you can reduce the amount of wast water by running the wast water from the RO membrane to a second RO membrane and then through the DI. Haven't done it yet but I will try it at some point. If you did have the hoses hooked up wrong I don't think that would have killed the fish unless you have some nasty stuff in your well water. But if you did, you would have known about it and would not be using it in the house. The biggest problem with nitrates and phosphates in the water is that they feed the nuisance algae.

Share this post


Link to post
reefbike
I can understand the frustration. Been there and have done that many times. I'd say try not to let it get to you but that never seemed to work for me. In the end for me was a lesson learned. The 3:1 wast to RO/DI water ration is right. I know you can reduce the amount of wast water by running the wast water from the RO membrane to a second RO membrane and then through the DI. Haven't done it yet but I will try it at some point. If you did have the hoses hooked up wrong I don't think that would have killed the fish unless you have some nasty stuff in your well water. But if you did, you would have known about it and would not be using it in the house. The biggest problem with nitrates and phosphates in the water is that they feed the nuisance algae.

 

I can't believe it!! Just tested the fresh waste water and it reads close to 0 ppm phosphate!! How and

the hell can these companies screw this stuff up?? The only part that was hooked up from the factory were

the waste/pure rodi water lines....I'd like to think they'd at least have that correct?!... Next I'll be at the lfs today buying a tds water meter I guess...

 

I'm still confused though because this would suggest my waste/rodi ratio is the opposite at 1/3.... arrrggg

Edited by reefbike

Share this post


Link to post
benoitcdc
I can't believe it!! Just tested the fresh waste water and it reads close to 0 ppm phosphate!! How and

the hell can these companies screw this stuff up?? The only part that was hooked up from the factory were

the waste/pure rodi water lines....I'd like to think they'd at least have that correct?!... Next I'll be at the lfs today buying a tds water meter I guess...

 

I'm still confused though because this would suggest my waste/rodi ratio is the opposite at 1/3.... arrrggg

Did you get the unit from the lfs? If so, bring it back to them and have them check it and make sure they have it hooked up correctly. I think you have the 3 stage filter, sediment filter, carbon filter, them membrane. Do you have a DI canister? The flow should be into the sediment filter then into the carbon filter, then into the RO membrane and then into the DI if you have one. Most filter housings have the in and out flow labeled. The RO membrane should also have in, out and wast labeled. Follow the flow and see where it takes you.

Share this post


Link to post
reefbike
Did you get the unit from the lfs? If so, bring it back to them and have them check it and make sure they have it hooked up correctly. I think you have the 3 stage filter, sediment filter, carbon filter, them membrane. Do you have a DI canister? The flow should be into the sediment filter then into the carbon filter, then into the RO membrane and then into the DI if you have one. Most filter housings have the in and out flow labeled. The RO membrane should also have in, out and wast labeled. Follow the flow and see where it takes you.

 

No, it's from Foster/Smith online store. I've got it all hooked up like you've stated

and there isn't really a marking for the correct lines exiting the membrane housing

waste vs. ro. I hate to keep adding to this thread with my water issues; I feel like

it should be in another forum now so sorry people about the straying of the intended

topic here.

Anyway, I've decided I'll just take a pic or two of my setup and show the guys at

the lfs and on Monday I'll call Oceanic/Coralife and see if they have any suggestions

or if it's possible they have the hoses switched. Thanks again for your help. I'll get

it figured out eventually.

Share this post


Link to post
jojoe972

Hello everyone..... i have read this thread all the way through and decided i should set up my filtration system in the back of my 14g biocube. right now in chamber one i have an oceanic skimmer with an upgraded stone and upgraded pump (cup fills in one day at a very low setting w/ clear water, boooo). as well have kent resin at the bottom of that chamber. second chamber rubble rock on bottom, blue filter pad above then rowaphos media bag on top then drip tray. third chamber just stock pump and sponge (upgrading to maxi-jet 900 this wknd. Am thinking about tossing the skimmer and getting a media basket with a one or two underwater light to grow chaeto. take the lip from 1st chamber to second for more flow. Questions that I have before setting this up.

 

1. should i keep the skimmer?

2. mediabasket.com and this website suggest chaeto at bottom, chemipure then filter floss. can I just use rowaphos in second tray and blue filter pad on top (lfs call it that but its half blue on one side and white on other)

3. can i put both rowaphos and resin in second tray or no?

4. can i just purchase one under water led light for refugium or do i need two.

5. does that light create a lot of heat since its an led?

6. keep stock sponge, use something else or take out all together

 

Let me know what everyone thinks about setting this up..... suggestions are welcome

 

i am aiming for a reef tank..... its been up and running for a little over a month now w/ 14 ibs of live rock and a 2in sand bed.

 

in tank inhabitants:

 

2 red legged hermit crabs

1 yellow tip hermit crab

1 nassarius snail

2 cerith snail

1 astrea snail

1 tronchus snail

2 nerite snail

peppermint shrimp (aptasia)

firefish goby

oscellaris clown

Share this post


Link to post
StevieT

1. should i keep the skimmer?

 

No, heater in chamber one

 

2. mediabasket.com and this website suggest chaeto at bottom, chemipure then filter floss. can I just use rowaphos in second tray and blue filter pad on top (lfs call it that but its half blue on one side and white on other)

 

You can set it up however you want, if you like chemical media vs chaeto then put those on the shelves.

3. can i put both rowaphos and resin in second tray or no?

 

depends on the size of the bags most likely no

 

4. can i just purchase one under water led light for refugium or do i need two.

 

Single light will be fine

5. does that light create a lot of heat since its an led?

 

no

 

6. keep stock sponge, use something else or take out all together

 

I still recommend keeping it since it protect that pump, Rinse it often.

Edited by StevieT

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recommended Discussions

×
×
  • Create New...