The Biocube Resource Guide

[rO.oster]

hey, add my tank to the list please if you wish. so far I have done a DIY 3.36 PC mod, 13w gang box fuge light, and other mods to my BC29. This thread is where it ALL started for me, and I hope my tank can inspire others to jump in as well.

[snlbaldwin]

I bought the tank off of a friend. Do you think they still might replace them? I'll call on monday anyway. Thanks

 

 

 

same issue here.bought mine used and 2of the 3 are out. i looked and found 5 sites that sell them but all are oos so i assume that they may not be in production anymore. let us know if u find them

[Bigben7]

Hey, maybe someone has already covered this, but I couldn't find it with search. I'm having some algae issues, even though PO4 is ZERO and Nitrates are between 0-5 ppm. I was wondering if anyone has put a hang on the back refugium on their tank? Any results?

[Krazy_Karl]

Just replaced the Pico pump I had with a Rio 6hf. This thing is REALLY loud huh? Just making sure I didnt pick up a lemon. Anyone care to confirm?

[PACMAN]

Just replaced the Pico pump I had with a Rio 6hf. This thing is REALLY loud huh? Just making sure I didnt pick up a lemon. Anyone care to confirm?

 

 

Are people putting eggcrate in their biocube and then putting the rocks on top before filling with sand? Or is it not popular to put an eggcrate on the bottom?

 

 

P.S> I'm a saltwater N00B. Just starting a biocube 29G very soon

Edited October 22, 2010 by PACMAN

[Darb]

Here is my Link v

V

V

[Beijo Gaem]

what is the long-term outlook for an emerald crab in a BC29? i was thinking of getting one as part of a CUC i plan to introduce in a few months, but have read a few online threads saying that they eventually get too big/aggressive... just wondering if anyone experienced any issues with them or have any regrets purchasing them...

 

 

thanks yall.

[Krazy_Karl]

Just chiming in again regarding the Rio 6hf. Its still really loud, I will try to exchange it for another one since i does a great job of pushing water. The tank is in my living room however, and the noise is pretty much unbearable for me. I have done some reasearch and it seems pretty hit or miss, some say theyre silent while others say theyre loud.

 

Also, I just added the Loc Line Y fitting on the return bulkhead with two different nozzles on each end. I looked into installing the fitting on here and many suggested that you sand the 1/2" fitting a little to get it to fit. Since the size difference is minimal I simply boiled some water in a sauce pan, threw the Y fitting in there for about 10 minutes to heat it up so its more flexible and was able to get it on the bulkhead pretty easy with no sanding.

[spanko]

Here is the latest picture of mine.

 

 

 

Actinic shot

 

[mlglunchbox]

I have currently had my 29g biocube up and running for about 6 months now, mostly stock everything. I am going to be upgrading the lighting very soon and was also thinking of upgrading my protein skimmer. Any suggestions? Ive tried searching for a few of the skimmers that people mentioned in this thread but havent been able to find any retailers selling them. Anyone tried the SR3 Protein Skimmer?

Edited November 1, 2010 by mlglunchbox

[coralsys]

I have currently had my 29g biocube up and running for about 6 months now, mostly stock everything. I am going to be upgrading the lighting very soon and was also thinking of upgrading my protein skimmer. Any suggestions? Ive tried searching for a few of the skimmers that people mentioned in this thread but havent been able to find any retailers selling them. Anyone tried the SR3 Protein Skimmer?

 

I have the SR3, bought it shortly after setting up my bc29 about 10 months ago. It worked very well but I recently replaced it with a tunze 9002 and steveT's media rack. The 9002 is *significantly* quieter(especially important as my tank is in living area in my home). It also produces better foam once it breaks in and takes up much less space in chamber 2 allowing use of the media rack where i have a filter pad, phosban, purigen and activated charcoal.

Edited November 7, 2010 by coralsys

[Faultless]

I just purchased a chiller, will the stock pump be strong enough to move the water through it? or should i upgrade the pump. also which pump would be recommended

[l3lumarlin]

Just got a BC29 HQI today!! Can't wait to have some questions for you guys. As for now I have an empty tank.

[l3lumarlin]

Has anyony tried running 2 return pumps on a BC 29? I'm thinking about running 2 maxijet 1200s into the one return.

[racerfreak]

does anyone know the dimensions of the BC29 middle chamber?

[Proteus]

Phew! Just read through the whole resource guide. I am new to nano reefing and am so glad I found this guide! I wish I would have known about this site when I was running my 65G SW. I shut it down a couple of years back and never started it up again. (around the birth of my first child) Currently, I am planning on setting up a 29BC. The tank is here but the stand was shipped to me defected. SO, I should have the replacement stand this week . It was a blessing in disguise because I got to research so much more. I plan on setting up shortly after. I do have a few questions about my setup. I am kind of on a budget so is it advisable to:

1. upgrade the stock pump with say the RIO hf6 or similar, or just add a Koralia? I was thinking of the nano425 @425gph. Is that enough flow for the 29g?

2. Should I put all the live rock and live sand in after I get the salinity and temp correct?

3. When you hear things like 1lbs per gallon, does that mean actual tank size or the water volume after displacements? I have ~30-35lbs LR and 20lbs of arg-alive. Will that be enough sand? More rock to come as $ becomes available.

4. How important is it to have a refractometer? Will a swing arm hydrometer be fine for now?

5. I plan on using Purigen, but is Chemi-pure that necessary or would carbon be better?

 

I think I am going to mimic nanonans mods for filtration. So far I have opened up the water way between ch1 and ch2. Knocked out false bottoms in ch1 and ch2. Built a fuge light with 9 watt, 40watt equivelant 5500K light. Will that be enough light for chaeto? I also picked up some polly fill to replace the over-priced carbon filter.

 

A big thanks to all that have added to this thread. I feel so much more prepared to start this tank. For the record, this will be my first tank that I am starting everything from scratch! All my other tanks I acquired some how or another.

[Nor_Cal_Cuber]

1. upgrade the stock pump with say the RIO hf6 or similar, or just add a Koralia? I was thinking of the nano425 @425gph. Is that enough flow for the 29g?

2. Should I put all the live rock and live sand in after I get the salinity and temp correct?

3. When you hear things like 1lbs per gallon, does that mean actual tank size or the water volume after displacements? I have ~30-35lbs LR and 20lbs of arg-alive. Will that be enough sand? More rock to come as $ becomes available.

4. How important is it to have a refractometer? Will a swing arm hydrometer be fine for now?

5. I plan on using Purigen, but is Chemi-pure that necessary or would carbon be better?

 

I think I am going to mimic nanonans mods for filtration. So far I have opened up the water way between ch1 and ch2. Knocked out false bottoms in ch1 and ch2. Built a fuge light with 9 watt, 40watt equivelant 5500K light. Will that be enough light for chaeto? I also picked up some polly fill to replace the over-priced carbon filter.

 

A big thanks to all that have added to this thread. I feel so much more prepared to start this tank. For the record, this will be my first tank that I am starting everything from scratch! All my other tanks I acquired some how or another.

 

I would upgrade to a MaxiJet rather then Rio. Better pump.

 

I add water, adjust sg, leaving room for live sand and rock, rock next, sand last. Let water clear, test sg, ph, etc.

 

I would use maybe 30lbs of live sand, unless you plan on a remote DSB in the future

 

Refractometer is worth the 50-100 hands down, more in a nano as fluctuations are more drastic.

 

Any Carbon product works fine IME. I user the stock filters out of convenience and buy them 2 for $7 online.

 

That should be plenty of light for macro algae.

 

Good luck! Sounds like you have a great start!!!!!!

[uwwmatt]

1. upgrade the stock pump with say the RIO hf6 or similar, or just add a Koralia? I was thinking of the nano425 @425gph. Is that enough flow for the 29g?

2. Should I put all the live rock and live sand in after I get the salinity and temp correct?

3. When you hear things like 1lbs per gallon, does that mean actual tank size or the water volume after displacements? I have ~30-35lbs LR and 20lbs of arg-alive. Will that be enough sand? More rock to come as $ becomes available.

4. How important is it to have a refractometer? Will a swing arm hydrometer be fine for now?

5. I plan on using Purigen, but is Chemi-pure that necessary or would carbon be better?

 

light. Will that be enough light for chaeto? I also picked up some polly fill to replace the over-priced carbon filter.

 

Welcome

 

1. I would get the koralia first because your tank will need the added flow to stop dead spots from forming. Then when you have the money upgrade your stock pump.

 

2. After preparing the sand, I would put that in first and then slowly add your premixed water (put a heater in your bucket to get the water the right temp). You can have a few gallons of water in when you first add your sand to help smooth it out. Last add your liverock. Adding 20+ lbs of sand to a full tank of water will be a nightmare and your water will stay cloudy for a week.

 

3. I would guess your tank will probably around 300lbs+ after being completely set up. The amount of sand you buy depends on the depth you want to achieve. There are formulas available (I don't know it off the top of my head) that will tell you how much sand you will need to achieve your desired depth given the tanks measurements.

 

Either go under 2 inches or over 4 inches (deep sand bed). Read up and make the decision you think best suits your style. The in between area can cause problems.

 

Adding liverock and different times can restart or prolong your tanks cycle period so I would advise against it.

 

4. You can use a swing arm. I would take it to the LFS and make sure it reads accurately though. Eventually you will probably want to get a refractometer because they are easier and faster.

 

5. I'll let someone else answer this

 

The light should be fine for cheato. It doesn't take much.

Edited January 4, 2011 by uwwmatt

[Nor_Cal_Cuber]

Welcome

 

1. I would get the koralia first because your tank will need the added flow to stop dead spots from forming. Then when you have the money upgrade your stock pump.

 

2. After preparing the sand, I would put that in first and then slowly add your premixed water (put a heater in your bucket to get the water the right temp). You can have a few gallons of water in when you first add your sand to help smooth it out. Last add your liverock. Adding 20+ lbs of sand to a full tank of water will be a nightmare and your water will stay cloudy for a week.

 

3. I would guess your tank will probably around 300lbs+ after being completely set up. The amount of sand you buy depends on the depth you want to achieve. There are formulas available (I don't know it off the top of my head) that will tell you how much sand you will need to achieve your desired depth given the tanks measurements.

 

Either go under 2 inches or over 4 inches (deep sand bed). Read up and make the decision you think best suits your style. The in between area can cause problems.

 

Adding liverock and different times can restart or prolong your tanks cycle period so I would advise against it.

 

4. You can use a swing arm. I would take it to the LFS and make sure it reads accurately though. Eventually you will probably want to get a refractometer because they are easier and faster.

 

5. I'll let someone else answer this

 

The light should be fine for cheato. It doesn't take much.

 

 

Cloudy for a week! Not even. I have setup over 20 tanks this way....

 

Swing arms are for FOWLR at best. they need to be cleaned often to maintain even modest accuracy.

 

Are you asking about repalcing the filtration pump or looking for in the DT? Koralias work wonders. I use the Hydor Flo on the return outlet and a Koralia for added movement.

 

Chemi Pure etc is a band aid for poor reef keeping. If you have unstable ph, or ammonia nitrate problems, you need to address them.

[uwwmatt]

Cloudy for a week! Not even. I have setup over 20 tanks this way....

 

A bit of an exaggeration I admit, but in my last tank build my water was clear right from the start. Which was not the case for my first biocube build where I poured the sand in after I mixed the water in the tank. I had to run filter floss for several days.

 

 

Swing arms are for FOWLR at best. they need to be cleaned often to maintain even modest accuracy.

I certainly won't argue the ease of use and improved accuracy of a refractometer.

 

However, I know first hand you can keep a reef tank. My first tank, an 8 gallon biocube, was run using a swing arm and I had no problem keeping inverts or coral. Hydrometers can be highly inaccurate, but properly maintained ones are usually very consistent. So if you disregard the specific gravity markers and take it to your LFS to calibrate (mark with a permanent marker a line for exactly 1.025 or whatever sg you want) you could get by. Once I upgraded my tank and learned about refractometers I of course upgraded, but the point is I maintained a healthy tank with a hydrometer.

 

There are other issue though with a hydrometer. You have to basically put your whole hand in the tank to fill it up. The less time your hands are in the tank the better. You also have to place it on a level surface and make sure no bubbles are trapped under the arm that could cause an inaccurate reading.

Edited January 4, 2011 by uwwmatt

[Proteus]

Cloudy for a week! Not even. I have setup over 20 tanks this way....

 

Swing arms are for FOWLR at best. they need to be cleaned often to maintain even modest accuracy.

 

Are you asking about repalcing the filtration pump or looking for in the DT? Koralias work wonders. I use the Hydor Flo on the return outlet and a Koralia for added movement.

 

Chemi Pure etc is a band aid for poor reef keeping. If you have unstable ph, or ammonia nitrate problems, you need to address them.

 

Thank you for your quick response! I am considering replacing the filtration pump. I only question that because it seems to be the popular thing to do. I am also looking to add a Koralias nano 425. Is that enough flow IYO?

I like the answer for the band-aids. I would prefer to keep it simple.

[Proteus]

A bit of an exaggeration I admit, but in my last tank build my water was clear right from the start. Which was not the case for my first biocube build where I poured the sand in after I mixed the water in the tank. I had to run filter floss for several days.

 

 

 

I certainly won't argue the ease of use and improved accuracy of a refractometer.

 

However, I know first hand you can keep a reef tank. My first tank, an 8 gallon biocube, was run using a swing arm and I had no problem keeping inverts or coral. Hydrometers can be highly inaccurate, but properly maintained ones are usually very consistent. So if you disregard the specific gravity markers and take it to your LFS to calibrate (mark with a permanent marker a line for exactly 1.025 or whatever sg you want) you could get by. Once I upgraded my tank and learned about refractometers I of course upgraded, but the point is I maintained a healthy tank with a hydrometer.

 

There are other issue though with a hydrometer. You have to basically put your whole hand in the tank to fill it up. The less time your hands are in the tank the better. You also have to place it on a level surface and make sure no bubbles are trapped under the arm that could cause an inaccurate reading.

 

Thanks uwwmatt! I love your resource guide and your passion to help out beginners. I share your opinion on swing arms. I too have used them for SW tanks in the past. This is my first tank I plan on keeping corals in and didn't want to skimp on my setup cost. I would prefer to get the essentials right away and then as time goes by, add corals etc... My next step is to build the stand (hopefully the new one is not defected) and get it cycling. Then add a nice custom crew from reef cleaners. Pictures to come in the future.

I plan on using a deli srimp to start the cycle. How long should I keep it in the tank?

[Proteus]

I am looking to order a Koralia water pump. Is anyone using the 750 on a BC29? Or is that too much water flow?

Should I stick with the nano 425?

[Nor_Cal_Cuber]

I am looking to order a Koralia water pump. Is anyone using the 750 on a BC29? Or is that too much water flow?

Should I stick with the nano 425?

 

I have the 250 in my 8g and it is plenty. I'd venture the 425 would be good. You may want to poll others.

 

As far as the filtration pump, more is better. Does an MJ1200 fit in the chamber? (if it fits, I would do it, you could put a ball valve inline to slow it down if needed.

[Proteus]

Does an MJ1200 fit in the chamber?

 

 

 

As far I know from this thread it does. Its one I am considering, the other being the RIO hf6.