T5HO Information

[05XRunner]

its called BLOWN highlights..pretty easy to do when you meter for the rock and coral area which is much darker then the light reflecting off the sand bed and that will be brighter and blow the highlights just like it did in the pic. Pretty typical looking shot..like I said P&S AWB are not the best and its really easy for it to mess up and bleed colors int he red spectrum especially when they are solid like the 2 fish..then going back to adjust the WB to a more accurate one would do this no problem if the camera sensor could not ge the color correct of the fish the first time.

Edited January 3, 2009 by 05XRunner

[lakshwadeep]

Yes, I understand the limitations of P&S cameras since I have one myself.

 

I was mainly pointing that out because the photos in this thread are mainly about showing examples of different bulb configurations, and a member who decides to get the same ratio of ATI blue pluses might not expect a blue appearance in person. However, since I have not seen the pro color or fiji pink except online, I can't say how the color should be altered.

[dan06277]

Yes, I understand the limitations of P&S cameras since I have one myself.

 

I was mainly pointing that out because the photos in this thread are mainly about showing examples of different bulb configurations, and a member who decides to get the same ratio of ATI blue pluses might not expect a blue appearance in person. However, since I have not seen the pro color or fiji pink except online, I can't say how the color should be altered.

You make a good point about showing the different bulb combos. I should have taken a photo just in auto. I was in the mode of highlighting the livestock. I will take a new photo with no adjustments.

[Travis]

The problem I have is that when I take a picture in auto, even with my Nikon D80, it comes out the wrong color. The only solution I have found is using Photoshop. Not to make something look like what it isn't, but to make something look like what it looks like in person.

 

****Edit, wanted to add this.****

When I took pics of my tank when it had MH, I could simply resize and post to the web. For some reason, T5HO tanks are a PITA to photograph and as I said earlier, photoshop is the only way to get a picture to come out looking right.

Edited January 3, 2009 by Travis

[05XRunner]

The problem I have is that when I take a picture in auto, even with my Nikon D80, it comes out the wrong color. The only solution I have found is using Photoshop. Not to make something look like what it isn't, but to make something look like what it looks like in person.

 

****Edit, wanted to add this.****

When I took pics of my tank when it had MH, I could simply resize and post to the web. For some reason, T5HO tanks are a PITA to photograph and as I said earlier, photoshop is the only way to get a picture to come out looking right.

because T5HO bulbs are fluorescent bulbs...They are on a cycle and are constantly changing color you cant see it but florescent type of lighting always throws AWB cameras into haywire. The halide doesnt have the cycles and is a constant burn so it will not mess with the WB as much.

[dan06277]

Sorry to cause havoc in the thread. Going back and looking at the picture, I would say it is mostly accurate. On the left hand side of the pic towards the back, you can see the bluer color on the sand bed and across the upper 2/3's of the tank. For some reason, the front is just popping out. I don't know if it is because of where the Fiji Pink is placed in the fixture or what. Like I said before, I will try again and see if I can get a better pic.

[el_vulture619]

I know little about T-5's, but if I get a 220w Workhorse ballast I should have no problems running 4 39w tubes right? When you buy the ballast will it come with enough wiring needed for this set up? If not what will I need?

 

Looking to set up T5s for my 40b

[masterbuilder]

Workhorse ballasts are one of the worst for T5HO. The don’t use a programmed start, etc. Just get a good ballast that’s designed for T5HO. About the same price. Check out a place like reefgeek.com

[lakshwadeep]

Besides a ballast and tubes, you will also need endcaps and stand-offs.

[GobyInPeace]

Workhorse ballasts are one of the worst for T5HO. The don’t use a programmed start, etc. Just get a good ballast that’s designed for T5HO. About the same price. Check out a place like reefgeek.com

 

5 years of running Workhorse ballasts here and I just chuckle at those who bash them. I paid $20 each for mine. Granted they don't have the perfect start-up but the amount of time turning them on and off when applied to a reef tank is almost negligible. Unless you have used these ballasts before I could care less what someone says about them.

Edited January 4, 2009 by GobyInPeace

[el_vulture619]

So the start up problem would be flickering in the tubes like a T8 shop light?

 

After reading your thread GobyInPeace, if they do flicker it doesn't have an impact on the life of the tube. Still deciding between cheap T5 from fishneedit.com, or just puting one together myself with a good ballast.

 

hoping to use some of the great tube combos seen in this thread!

[05XRunner]

no the workhorse does the instant start..there is no delay its on and off like a normal incandescent bulb

[vresor]

I think I have read that the ballast has a significant impact on the lumens delivered by the bulb(s). I think I have read that that also applies to T5HO bulbs, not just MH bulbs. Goby, your respect of Workhorse ballasts says a lot and makes me believe that the FishNeedIt.com lights and others that use Workhorse ballasts are a genuine deal. Can you address the lumens delivered by Workhorse ballasts relative to others you've used? Thanks.

[el_vulture619]

I think I have read that the ballast has a significant impact on the lumens delivered by the bulb(s). I think I have read that that also applies to T5HO bulbs, not just MH bulbs. Goby, your respect of Workhorse ballasts says a lot and makes me believe that the FishNeedIt.com lights and others that use Workhorse ballasts are a genuine deal. Can you address the lumens delivered by Workhorse ballasts relative to others you've used? Thanks.

 

So fishneedit.com uses the workhorse?! Well then looks like I am getting the fixture from them then!..pending reply to vresor's question of course

[vresor]

Hmmm, I don't actually know that FishNeedIt.com uses Workhorse ballasts. I deduced that from the replies in this thread. Probably would bear confirmation from FNI before counting on it. I've talked to them by phone and they were quite helpful about answering the individual reflectors question.

Edited January 4, 2009 by vresor

[masterbuilder]

Workhorse ballasts are just OK for T5HO, they are general use ballasts that drive any fluorescent lamp. You won’t get quite as much output from your T5 as with ballast that’s specifically designed for T5. Workhorse ballasts underdrive them, not much less but still a measurable difference. Like stated earlier that they don’t use a programmed start like dedicated T5 ballast, thus you will get shorter life from your lamps. How much shorter life, I dont know. Lastly Workhorse ballasts don’t have an end of life detection, not a huge deal but something to consider. Long and short, Workhorse's are economy ballast that will do the job and are certainly better than some of the cheap Chinese stuff. Best thing is if buying ballast, get real T5HO ballast like Accustart or Universal for a little price difference, is paying $9 more worth it...you decide . If your choosing fixtures, just be aware of the ballast differences and factor that into your decision.

Not bashing...just information.

 

p.s. I happen to have two workhorse ballasts in my fixture. I dont sweat it I just know the facts. Like I said in an earlier post.... If I could choose the ballast I would get a different one but like I also said...it does the job.

Edited January 4, 2009 by masterbuilder

[GobyInPeace]

When I started using the Workhorses T5s where still pretty new. Now there are better/more choices available. As far as loss of lumins etc... I have no way of telling. All I can do is compare my fixture to others like the TEK unit and I can honestly say that my bulbs appear considerably brighter. Anyone who has seen my tank in person will tell you this. My thinking is if it isn't broke why fix it?

Edited January 4, 2009 by GobyInPeace

[Weetabix7]

When I started using the Workhorses T5s where still pretty new. Now there are better/more choices available. As far as loss of lumins etc... I have no way of telling. All I can do is compare my fixture to others like the TEK unit and I can honestly say that my bulbs appear considerably brighter. Anyone who has seen my tank in person will tell you this. My thinking is if it isn't broke why fix it?

 

But aren't you overdriving your bulbs?

Wouldn't that automatically make them brighter?

Not trying to argue or anything, I honestly don't know much at all about how the different T5 ballasts affect performance, so this is all educational for me.

[vresor]

Icecap maintains that overdriving T5s does not shorten bulb life. I believe their reasoning is that the start up is what determines bulb life and their's is very quick and controlled. Pushing more watts through the gas once it's "lit" doesn't deminish bulb life. At least that's Icecap's point.

[GobyInPeace]

But aren't you overdriving your bulbs?

Wouldn't that automatically make them brighter?

Not trying to argue or anything, I honestly don't know much at all about how the different T5 ballasts affect performance, so this is all educational for me.

 

Yes that's part of my point. The ballasts are cheap, they overdrive the bulbs and I am getting long enough life out of them to satisfied with their overall performance. The proof is in the health of my tank and that's all I need.

[SaltyVT]

I need to re-up my lights. I am waiting on upgrading to better lights so for now I was thinking of going with:::

 

2 ATI 12000K Aqua Blue

1 Fiji Purple

1 UV Super Actinic

 

What do you think?

[rufousreefer]

I am curious about reflectors.

 

It has been said many times that individual reflectors are what make a great t5 unit. That is why a nova extreme pro is more money than a nova extreme.

 

And how about the t5 from hello lights. 100-125 bucks and everyone is raving about it. Does it have individual reflectors? Do individual reflectors matter on a 4 bulb 24" unit? It seems like individidual reflectors would matter more for a deeper system like a solana cube. Am I correct on this?

[got2envy]

yes it does have individual reflectors..in a 15g maybe overkill for softies but if you u have a 20h SPS tank it will make all the difference more light for your bux

[dangsy]

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...fm?pcatid=16770

 

these nova extreme's have individual reflectors, relatively cheap though the wattage comapred to the pro's are lower

[masterbuilder]

I need to re-up my lights. I am waiting on upgrading to better lights so for now I was thinking of going with:::

 

2 ATI 12000K Aqua Blue

1 Fiji Purple

1 UV Super Actinic

 

What do you think?

 

Depends on what look you want. Your selection will be white with a touch of blue/purple. I would ditch the actinic and replace it with a ATI Blue +, however. Will look about the same (ever so slightly bluer) as your selection with just as much pop, more PAR though.