Nano Sapiens 12g - Ye Olde Mixed Reef

[Squared]

awww but he was getting better? what happened?

[Nano sapiens]

awww but he was getting better? what happened?

 

He got much better, then went down hiill yet again. Immune system was just too weak to fight off the infection. Other fish are perfectly fine which is good news.

[jball1125]

Sorry to hear that man.

[Squared]

that sux. but you know what would look amazing in your tank?

 

this little guy > http://www.liveaquaria.com/diversden/ItemD...amp;ddid=160705

[Nano sapiens]

that sux. but you know what would look amazing in your tank?

 

this little guy > http://www.liveaquaria.com/diversden/ItemD...amp;ddid=160705

 

Yeah, the possum wrasses are awesome, but I hear they can jump. Due to the small size of this tank, I'm leaning towards adding a pair of Green Banded Gobies or Neon Gobies.

 

 

Sorry to hear that man.

 

Thanks. Its part of the hobby that some creatures just don't survive no matter how well they are cared for. In this case, I have no idea how this fish was collected or how it was maintained before it reached the LFS, etc.

Edited July 31, 2012 by Nano sapiens

[metrokat]

Cherub Angel finally expired...RIP.

aww. I'm sorry to hear that, do you need a hug?

[Nano sapiens]

aww. I'm sorry to hear that, do you need a hug?

 

Thank you Kat (virtual hug). The tank's a bit barren without the little fella...

 

I saw that your Neon Goby has some type of sore or possibly a tumor. Hop that it doesn't get any worse (fingers crossed).

[metrokat]

Thank you Kat (virtual hug). The tank's a bit barren without the little fella...

 

I saw that your Neon Goby has some type of sore or possibly a tumor. Hop that it doesn't get any worse (fingers crossed).

Thanks, I can't figure out what it could be behavior wise he's still doing fine but it just appeared out of no where. No fish have been added since April.

[Nano sapiens]

More Lighting Updates:

 

Just for the 'halibut' I added another Stunner Strip that I had lying round. That makes six and that's just about the limit that'll fit in this canopy (I could actually squeeze in one more, but its a stretch).

 

I made the mistake of testing the system while it was upside down on my desk (with my face about a foot above it) and a half hour later I can still see all the LED 'spots' when I close my eyes

 

I'll be running the system for 9 hours/day.

 

Couple of things I really like about these strips:

 

1. Very even light coverage . There are no 'dark spots' (except under the LR).

2. No fan, no noise...ever.

3. No bulky heatsink. This aluminum canopy distributes the waste heat very evenly, so it only feels slightly 'warm' in any given area.

4. Very little heat added to the tank (I'm seeing a 1 degree rise, at most)

 

As they say, "The proof is in the pudding', so I'll take pics in few month's time to look at color/growth.

[eddiecorrea]

With 5 it looked to be putting off great color and I bet the PAR numbers are pretty dang good. I'd be really interested in seeing the growth pictures in say 3 months.

[Nano sapiens]

With 5 it looked to be putting off great color and I bet the PAR numbers are pretty dang good. I'd be really interested in seeing the growth pictures in say 3 months.

 

I'll do a 3 and 6 month, but I don't expect fast growth within the first few months since the corals, especially the SPS, need to first adjust to the new lighting spectum/intensity. Coloration tends to be the first thing that changes rapidly and so far I'm quite happy with the progress.

[metrokat]

PAR on stunners are dismal actually. Even on the PRO modules:

1 12K White/445nm Blue Module - 55 PAR at the bottom of a 28 Gallon Biocube

1 12K White/445nm Blue & 1 445nm Blue - 85 PAR at the bottom

 

In a 12G with stunners, you're probably getting these values or possibly less since stunners are used for color only, not growth. I nearly killed hardy SPS using 1 PRO and 1 stunner in my BC14.

 

 

 

The lights you have are perfect for softies, possibly some LPS. But time will tell.

[Nano sapiens]

PAR on stunners are dismal actually. Even on the PRO modules:

1 12K White/445nm Blue Module - 55 PAR at the bottom of a 28 Gallon Biocube

1 12K White/445nm Blue & 1 445nm Blue - 85 PAR at the bottom

 

In a 12G with stunners, you're probably getting these values or possibly less since stunners are used for color only, not growth. I nearly killed hardy SPS using 1 PRO and 1 stunner in my BC14.

 

 

 

The lights you have are perfect for softies, possibly some LPS. But time will tell.

 

Hi Kat,

 

For a 28g cube, you've got some depth there. A typical 12g is much shallower, so lighting doesn't need to be as strong/penetrating.

 

A while back 'Aquanerd.com', using an Apogee PAR meter, got 105 PPFD at the water surface. 12" away from the light source PPFD reading was 71. Not great, but certainly not all that bad considering the LEDs are only 1/4W/each.

 

Per Ecoxotic, adding the individual reflectors will double the output. I used a more conservative estimate of a 75% increase, that puts PAR at the water surface around 185 and 12" from the light (where most of my hard corals are) at around 125. Its not 150W MH numbers, but its not bad considering the much lower wattage.

 

After a couple weeks with my setup (36W total) my Montis are doing super. With the NO T5s I would get some growth, but not a lot of color. With the all stunner setup, I'm seeing improved coloration and growth is picking up, too.

 

Keeping Acros colored up is another story and I can't say whether this setup will work..or not. I may just pick up a Milli and see how it works out

[imadams]

AWESOME Top off method!!!

 

I would love info on how to do this correctly.

 

Pretteh, Pretteh Please?

[Nano sapiens]

AWESOME Top off method!!!

 

I would love info on how to do this correctly.

 

Pretteh, Pretteh Please?

 

There isn't really much to it. Buy bottle, fill with water, mount so that spout opening is just barely under the water level you want to maintain.

[metrokat]

Hi Kat,

 

For a 28g cube, you've got some depth there. A typical 12g is much shallower, so lighting doesn't need to be as strong/penetrating.

 

A while back 'Aquanerd.com', using an Apogee PAR meter, got 105 PPFD at the water surface. 12" away from the light source PPFD reading was 71. Not great, but certainly not all that bad considering the LEDs are only 1/4W/each.

 

Per Ecoxotic, adding the individual reflectors will double the output. I used a more conservative estimate of a 75% increase, that puts PAR at the water surface around 185 and 12" from the light (where most of my hard corals are) at around 125. Its not 150W MH numbers, but its not bad considering the much lower wattage.

 

After a couple weeks with my setup (36W total) my Montis are doing super. With the NO T5s I would get some growth, but not a lot of color. With the all stunner setup, I'm seeing improved coloration and growth is picking up, too.

 

Keeping Acros colored up is another story and I can't say whether this setup will work..or not. I may just pick up a Milli and see how it works out

 

The #'s you provided look promising and I'm glad for that. Look forward to new additions.

[Nano sapiens]

The #'s you provided look promising and I'm glad for that. Look forward to new additions.

 

I should mention that the numbers/example I provided was for four Stunners. I'm now running six just for kicks (looks like I could get one more in there, but that might be just a wee bit excessive)

Edited August 7, 2012 by Nano sapiens

[Nano sapiens]

Couple new photos (practicing to get decent photos under all LED lighting):

 

 

M. undata, started as a half finger nail sized frag, starting to color up. Very thin flesh on this species (you can see near the bottom where I brushed up against it while cleaning the glass). Growth has been on-again/off-again and I haven't quite figured out the trigger. The M. setosa up top also came from a mini-mini frag and its now nearly 4 inches long. Grows like a weed no matter what

 

 

 

This little Leptastrea has been fragged at least 7 times since 1999. In my 50g with nearly no WCs, the piece grew to the size of a small plate in 2 years. It grows slower in my Nano (which is fine by me), so long as coloration and health remain good.

Edited August 8, 2012 by Nano sapiens

[jball1125]

Great shots man!

[Nano sapiens]

Great shots man!

 

Thanks. How's it going with your tank?

[metrokat]

This little Leptastrea has been fragged at least 7 times since 1999. In my 50g with nearly no WCs, the piece grew to the size of a small plate in 2 years. It grows slower in my Nano (which is fine by me), so long as coloration and health remain good.

That is the piece you were talking about! very nice.

[Nano sapiens]

That is the piece you were talking about! very nice.

 

Yup, that's it. I once gave a frag of this to a fellow reefer who accidentally left it overnight in CoralRX, but it survived! Talk about a tough coral!

[buddythelion]

That leptastrea is gorgeous! Makes me want to try one.

[Nano sapiens]

That leptastrea is gorgeous! Makes me want to try one.

 

Leptastreas are definitely one of my favorite favids. They'll grow in lower or higher light (they just adjust their polyp size depending on light levels), eat just about anything, even small Mysis (amazing, considering the smaller polyp size) and are very hardy. The one I show above is a 'typical' Leptastrea, but there are some really unusual color morphs around such as orange (which I also have), green, blue, etc.).

 

Many Favids have potent sweepers, but Leptastrea don't. But, anything that touches them will get 'burned' badly. I used to have Nassarius snails and the would get 'hot-foot' whenever they tried to slither up steal the Leptastrea's food. Quite funny to watch

Edited August 8, 2012 by Nano sapiens

[metrokat]

Yup, that's it. I once gave a frag of this to a fellow reefer who accidentally left it overnight in CoralRX, but it survived! Talk about a tough coral!

seriously? wow. I bought my 3rd leptastrea a couple of weeks ago from a hobbyist, it was going fine then I started seeing STN right in the middle on one polyp, then it went to 2. is has stopped there but I might have to superglue it if I see it continue.

 

The hobbyist that gave it to me said that leptastreas stop growing if their growth pattern forms a ball. If that happens, unglue it or frag it off and glue to a flat piece of rock and it wlll start growing out again. Perhaps your coral could use that?