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28g JBJ HQI Club....

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viinse

The instructions that came with mine weren't the same as the pdf. Mine was one page and all the screws were labeled the same letter. :

The base and the top also were marked the same. :lol:

Edited by viinse

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lqdKaos
The instructions that came with mine weren't the same as the pdf. Mine was one page and all the screws were labeled the same letter. :

The base and the top also were marked the same. :lol:

 

I got my tank last night. My instructions were also 1 page with line drawings of the various parts. I just figured it out on my own with a little guidance from the pics. Just for some additional security, I added wood glue to the joints and pegs. I did feel though that the holes were drilled a bit large for the screws they provided. I just did not feel like they got much purchase in the "wood"

 

Once built however, the stand seems pretty sturdy. Though I may put a piece of wood under it since it will be going on carpet.

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SamK

Well, this is interesting info regarding the stand. I am told that a small chiller (if needed) can be put on one of the shelves, given the ventilation of the stand. Is there enough space inside for a small external fuge?

 

By the way, in light of all the talk about the clip-on fans that some people are using to avoid bothering with a chiller, I sent an email to Nanotuners. Here is the new clip-on fan upgrade that they have just offered:

 

http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php...products_id=586

 

I wouldn't want to annoy the DIYers, of course. :o

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Cytosol

With the HQI ballast, pumps, wavemaker, power bar, and a chiller, you would really be running out of room inside that stand.

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SamK
With the HQI ballast, pumps, wavemaker, power bar, and a chiller, you would really be running out of room inside that stand.

Thanks.

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Cytosol

You would be better off hanging something off the back since you have easy access to the overflow, and it would be a fairly straight forward thing to do.

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SamK
You would be better off hanging something off the back since you have easy access to the overflow, and it would be a fairly straight forward thing to do.

Thing is, Cytosol, the center compartment on the tank can already be used for a small fuge. So the question is, how much larger can one go with a hang-on? I figured that if I was going to go the fuge route, I'd need to justify this with some real capacity, or so I'd think.

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Cytosol

That is true, I don't see exceeding 2-3 gallons with a hang-on. I think if you put your HQI ballast outside the stand and crammed everything else at the bottom of the stand, the top shelf might give you a bit of room.. But even in there, I don't see putting more than a 3 gallon fuge.

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SamK
That is true, I don't see exceeding 2-3 gallons with a hang-on. I think if you put your HQI ballast outside the stand and crammed everything else at the bottom of the stand, the top shelf might give you a bit of room.. But even in there, I don't see putting more than a 3 gallon fuge.

Well, then that answers the question. What's the point of such a small fuge? However, maybe I should think of a different stand. It's already clear that people aren't jumping up and down in admiration with the JBJ stand. While the stand is often "free," it wouldn't be free if I got the nanotuners' modded tank.

Edited by SamK

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DrCooper

Hey everyone. I know some of you have made the middle a fuge! I am interested in doing this and would love feedback!

Also I need to take out one of those dividers on the side compartment to fit my HOB Skimmer, any advice

 

Thanks and Happy New Year everyone

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viinse
Cytosol, is this

 

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...mp;pcatid=18693

 

the stand you got?

 

Are you wanting to put a chiller and a fuge inside the stand? What size fuge?

There's very little room in that stand.

I can give you the inner dimensions when I get home tomorrow.

Edited by viinse

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SamK
Are you wanting to put a chiller and a fuge inside the stand? What size fuge?

There's very little room in that stand.

I can give you the inner dimensions when I get home tomorrow.

Hi viinse. Yes, I was thinking of (possibly) a chiller and a fuge. I don't yet know if a chiller will be necessary (I live in Michigan), but it would be foolish for me to assume that it won't be needed. I would think that the minimum would be 5 ga, right? Yes, if you could report the inner dimensions that would be swell.

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SamK

I found a good estimate of the the wattage used by the modded "Platinum" nanotuner's version of this tank from none other than ... nanotuners (the hardworking Nick). Gosh, these guys really are good: they answer detailed questions promptly and accurately. Most impressive.

 

--------

 

The bulb runs at 150w. The ballast should be running around 156w (1.3a x 120v). The PC's will run at 18w each with the ballast at 38.4w (0.3a x 120v). You should be able to calculate kWh based on those numbers.

 

Unfortunately I don't know the specific wattage off hand for the return pumps and skimmer. I'd say at very most you'd likely see an extra 100 watts between all of that. It should be enough to give you the idea though.

 

 

Nick Driver

Nanotuners Customer Care

info@nanotuners.com

 

805-277-3292

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viinse
Hi viinse. Yes, I was thinking of (possibly) a chiller and a fuge. I don't yet know if a chiller will be necessary (I live in Michigan), but it would be foolish for me to assume that it won't be needed. I would think that the minimum would be 5 ga, right? Yes, if you could report the inner dimensions that would be swell.

Inside dimensions in inches are about

12" wide

17" deep

28" high

Not a lot of space.

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cezarnano

got mine from fed ex today. i didnt have any real issue with the stand. mine came with the single page assembly instructions, as well as a booklet. paint looked good, no gouges. i thought the wood qaulity was better than most of the cheap furniture i have assembled. im definetely happy with it. now i need to check for leaks and get some supplies :D

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mutiny64

I did some power testing today. Using a "Kill A Watt" meter I measures the following: (note: I run the JBJ cube stock)

 

night view lights: 6VA 3w .05amp

MH hood (fans on): 152VA 146w 1.27amp

wavemaker, no pumps, constant flow: 10VA 1w .09amp

wavemaker, 1 pump of 2 running: 17VA 11w .14amp

wavemaker, switch between pumps: 19VA 12w .16amp

"all on": 182VA 171w 1.54amp

 

my 2 Marineland Stealth heaters (not sure I got the gal rating correct):

50w-30gal: 91VA 91w .8amp

100w-75gal: 177VA 177w 1.53amp

 

hope this is useful, Is anyone wants any other equip measured just shout out. next step is eval of a few backup bettery sources I've gathered

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S197
Be sure to post your results on your success with a UPS. Even though it is probably something I wouldn't consider, it would be good to know what this tank draws in terms of wattage.

 

I use an APC Smart UPS 150 and I get 1hr 15 min of power with one pump running at a time and the heater plugged in (heater running 100% of the time) UPS's arent very efficient at such low power consumption. I was able to run my UPS with everything on (Metal Halide, 1 stock pump at a time, 1 Korilla Nano, and a heater) for about 30 minutes. They post there efficiency charts on there website, so you can see the time you will get based on the power consumption. My power was just out for 2 days on the 30th-3 hrs before the new year and this thing saved my ass twice. After about 15 min of the power being out I went out and bought a generator since I knew it was going to be a while due to the power going out at night, cheap $150 dollar one that powers 1000watts. On the 2nd night at 3am when I woke up to fill the generator with gas the starter pully was jammed and I spent 1 hour in 29 degrees with just a flashlight takin the damn thing apart and fixing it. UPS kept me going both times and Im glad I have it.

 

btw as a side note, my house was 47 degrees and my tank ran at 76 (not the 78 I had it set to) with a 100 watt jager heater. So if your looking for a great heater for this tank, id spend the extra $2 on it. (I did have the tank covered in towels though to keep the heat in)

 

I just hope my fish appreciate me sleeping in a 47 degree house all alone for 2 days skipping work so I could fill gas in my cheap ass generator every 4 hours

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SamK
Inside dimensions in inches are about

12" wide

17" deep

28" high

Not a lot of space.

This is very useful information, viinse. Isn't the height divided into two with shelves? Also, I assume you got the stand that was designed for this new tank? (I ask because the old stand for the 24 g will hold this new tank as well.)

 

But yeah, this is not a lot of space. :(

Edited by SamK

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SamK
I did some power testing today. Using a "Kill A Watt" meter I measures the following: (note: I run the JBJ cube stock)

 

night view lights: 6VA 3w .05amp

MH hood (fans on): 152VA 146w 1.27amp

wavemaker, no pumps, constant flow: 10VA 1w .09amp

wavemaker, 1 pump of 2 running: 17VA 11w .14amp

wavemaker, switch between pumps: 19VA 12w .16amp

"all on": 182VA 171w 1.54amp

 

my 2 Marineland Stealth heaters (not sure I got the gal rating correct):

50w-30gal: 91VA 91w .8amp

100w-75gal: 177VA 177w 1.53amp

 

hope this is useful, Is anyone wants any other equip measured just shout out. next step is eval of a few backup bettery sources I've gathered

This is very useful indeed. I have previously posted the draw from the actinic add-on (both the separate ballast and for each additional tube). This is with the electronic ballast, which should be a bit more energy efficient. Still, maybe use that figure and add 10%. This should give a reasonable estimate.

 

Wait, doesn't the skimmer take anything?

 

What seems clear to me even now, however, is that if only the moon lights are turned on, the only substantial power draw will be the heater. If actinics are turned on:

 

"The PC's will run at 18w each with the ballast at 38.4w (0.3a x 120v)."

 

So, that's 18*4+38.4=110w. Since w=a*v, this would mean 0.92a additional. Add ~10% for fudge factor, and we get about 1.0a additional. So, the actinics are a substantial additional power drain.

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SamK
I use an APC Smart UPS 150 and I get 1hr 15 min of power with one pump running at a time and the heater plugged in (heater running 100% of the time) UPS's arent very efficient at such low power consumption. I was able to run my UPS with everything on (Metal Halide, 1 stock pump at a time, 1 Korilla Nano, and a heater) for about 30 minutes. They post there efficiency charts on there website, so you can see the time you will get based on the power consumption. My power was just out for 2 days on the 30th-3 hrs before the new year and this thing saved my ass twice. After about 15 min of the power being out I went out and bought a generator since I knew it was going to be a while due to the power going out at night, cheap $150 dollar one that powers 1000watts. On the 2nd night at 3am when I woke up to fill the generator with gas the starter pully was jammed and I spent 1 hour in 29 degrees with just a flashlight takin the damn thing apart and fixing it. UPS kept me going both times and Im glad I have it.

 

btw as a side note, my house was 47 degrees and my tank ran at 76 (not the 78 I had it set to) with a 100 watt jager heater. So if your looking for a great heater for this tank, id spend the extra $2 on it. (I did have the tank covered in towels though to keep the heat in)

 

I just hope my fish appreciate me sleeping in a 47 degree house all alone for 2 days skipping work so I could fill gas in my cheap ass generator every 4 hours

Wow! I'd want you for an owner if were a fish. I don't see an APC Smart-UPS 150 as a model, though. Do you mean the 980 Watts / 1440 VA model (the UPS 1500VA)?

 

BTW, I don't see the efficiency point you are making. The metal halide hood with fans alone will draw substantially more than your heater. So offhand, the power drain seems proportional. Am I missing something?

 

Finally, it's good that you used a true sine wave UPS. That's what I was planning to do.

Edited by SamK

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S197
I don't see an APC Smart-UPS 150 as a model, though.

 

Im blind, its an APC Smart UPS 750

 

 

BTW, I don't see the efficiency point you are making. The metal halide hood with fans alone will draw substantially more than your heater. So offhand, the power drain seems proportional. Am I missing something?

 

Im just saying I can run my whole tank for 30 min, you would think a 16 watt pump and heater would run much longer then that, but I guess all UPS's arent very efficient at minimal load compaired to above 50% load

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SamK

Now let's think some more about this for those of us who simply are not allowed to run a generator--or those who don't want to spend hours in extreme cold. ;)

 

We know that the heater doesn't care if you feed it cheap square waves. Amazon has the following:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-Technologies...360&sr=1-31

 

Which has 40aH, which someone on Amazon has calculated as "400 watts for about 35 minutes." It's also really cheap at about $135. I'm not an engineer, but let's say power draw is linear in this range, so a 100w heater would go for 2h, if it was going all the time. If you insulated your tank, though, with heavy blankets, you could substantially decrease heater use. Triple it, maybe? If you got two of these units, that would mean 12 hours of heat.

 

The pumps have relatively little draw. They, the skimmer, and other low-draw additions, and the moon lights could be attached to the sine wave UPS. If necessary, this UPS could also pick up where the cheap Amazon UPS left off. Extra sets of batteries could be bought ahead of time. Each set will give less power than each of the Amazon units, though.

 

I dunno, but this sure looks feasible for a small tank, even without a generator. I'll bet that we could keep this system fully functioning (except for most of the lights) for a solid few days, except in subzero cold. And if we could increase the efficiency of the insulation beyond blankets (and what is Home Depot for?), I'll bet that even subzero cold wouldn't faze us.

 

Im blind, its an APC Smart UPS 750

 

 

 

 

Im just saying I can run my whole tank for 30 min, you would think a 16 watt pump and heater would run much longer then that, but I guess all UPS's arent very efficient at minimal load compaired to above 50% load

Ah, but actually, a 100w heater is a very major power draw.

 

OK, the UPS unit you got has 500w. The one I thought you were talking about has twice as much.

 

P.S.: if your hot water does not require electricity to run (mine does), you also have access to added heat in form of ziplocks (or maybe carefully sealed plastic containers) of hot water that you can attach to the tank (or even float in the tank). This will be tremendously helpful.

Edited by SamK

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S197

It just hit me that my 100 watt heater is using 100 watts :) So yah I guess that is a lot of power. BTW I bought the generator for $109 so it may even be cheaper then a UPS for you. And as long as your power doesnt go out in the winter (usually the summer for me) it will last you much longer since all you really need to run is 1 pump to keep circulation, oxygen and filtration going (assuming you use the stock media basket)

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SamK
It just hit me that my 100 watt heater is using 100 watts :) So yah I guess that is a lot of power. BTW I bought the generator for $109 so it may even be cheaper then a UPS for you. And as long as your power doesnt go out in the winter (usually the summer for me) it will last you much longer since all you really need to run is 1 pump to keep circulation, oxygen and filtration going (assuming you use the stock media basket)

Alas, my landlord would not look kindly on a gas generator outside....

 

It just hit me that my 100 watt heater is using 100 watts :) So yah I guess that is a lot of power. BTW I bought the generator for $109 so it may even be cheaper then a UPS for you. And as long as your power doesnt go out in the winter (usually the summer for me) it will last you much longer since all you really need to run is 1 pump to keep circulation, oxygen and filtration going (assuming you use the stock media basket)

But isn't there more than one pump to run? Aren't there two + the skimmer?

Edited by SamK

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