allen2656 Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Can I get in the club with a 24g jbj ? lol Little cloudy just set it up with rock from my 75s sump to the club I think you will enjoy being here! Allen Link to comment
TheNooBie Posted October 1, 2009 Share Posted October 1, 2009 Why is this thread not a STICKY?!?!?! Link to comment
blkrota Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Hey guys , Tanks look great, cant wait to get one. I live in Australia so i have to pay $550 just for shipping from nanotuners This will be my 3'd tank. I want to attach one of my large established canister filters to run along with the factory one, Do i have to cut anything to hang in the pipes. Also i will be using the canister to pump water to and from the chiller, any suggestions or info???? so this nanotuners tank without a stand is going to cost me $1100. Addon's to be purchased in OZ: Chiller Stand Tunze ATO Total + $2,000 I know our love for this hobby is not cheap, I have been into reefing for 6 years, will it be worth it or should i spend it elsewhere? Link to comment
justinT Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Awesomeness! I have the nanotuners mod, JBJ C-breeze on the back (it's been cold in the midwest recently so I unplugged it...gives my heater a break), purigen, chemipure elite and will pick up de-nitrate today (nitrates 10-20, wanna get them lower), stock skimmer and pumps, koralia nano in tank. fish: Oc. clown bicolor angel purple firefish royal gramma 4 hermits 3 astrea 2 nass 1 skunk cleaner No algae problems yet, just a slight red/brown what i think is a diatom bloom. I will get more snails as needed, but I had some more but i think they starved :-( I also had a pygmy cherub but he was a bully and ended up back at the LFS and his cousin the bicolor replaced him....so far so good! Link to comment
lukem Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Dude - Speak to Paul, Tank Aquariums - Belmont NSW. He ordered one in for me through the OZ Disturbution channel. 1000 bucks for the HQI including stand! Can't speak highly enough of the tank and the service! I was going to use Nanotuners as well, shipping and customs costs are way to high ... Hey guys , Tanks look great, cant wait to get one. I live in Australia so i have to pay $550 just for shipping from nanotuners This will be my 3'd tank. I want to attach one of my large established canister filters to run along with the factory one, Do i have to cut anything to hang in the pipes. Also i will be using the canister to pump water to and from the chiller, any suggestions or info???? so this nanotuners tank without a stand is going to cost me $1100. Addon's to be purchased in OZ: Chiller Stand Tunze ATO Total + $2,000 I know our love for this hobby is not cheap, I have been into reefing for 6 years, will it be worth it or should i spend it elsewhere? Link to comment
blkrota Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Cheers Lukem, il call today, I realy want the MH and 2 PC lighting mod. So did you get it for $1000 with the PC mod or just stock? Are you the luke thats into rotarys? Link to comment
lukem Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Unfortunately, you will only be able to get the HQI. You could order the PC kit yourself through nano-tuners, than mod it yourself. IMHO, you don't need the PC w/ the 150 watt halide. No I'm not into rotary's. Check out my tank thread > http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...p;#entry2462613 Link to comment
blkrota Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 just checked out your thread, Your tank looks awsome. Thanks for all your help lukem Adam Link to comment
justinT Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 It's getting there looks good. Recently went frome a 3yr old Aqua pod 12gl reef to the 28 JBJ HQI. What is the best way to config the back. I have mini Artica chiller return in the heater column but I think more water flows over the filter basket then goes thru it. I bought the Nano Glo and turned the filter basket into a fuge but I don't think it was worth the $. Anybody got any sugggestions? Or tell me your set-up's for the back filter area. Not really very happy with the filtering of this tank. DKDK4 I agree with you...a lot of water spills over the back and totally avoids my filter media. I'm going to try and find a way to raise the back and sides a little, see if that helps? Otherwise IDK what other ways to cram the filter media in the back.... So far my params have been good so maybe enough is getting through the media. I haven't done any refugium mods to it...they kinda scare me. Plus i'm a chemist so i'm really into my artificial medias! Link to comment
smokinjoe2122 Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Hi guys, to my surprise I just received one of these as a present. I have had 2 small basic tanks with some small mushrooms and some hardy fish (Clown, sixline, & firefish) , but I have never used such a sophisticated peice of equipment. Is there anything I really need to know that you guys had to figure out the hard way? How hot do these HQI lights get? I have seen a lot of people bought extra fans for the unit. I am assuming I will have to do the same? I am planning my transfer over from my 29 gallon hex tank, I might read up and buy any extra equipment before I think of setting this thing up. Looks like a good setup though, extremely excited! Link to comment
meterpai Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 i just ordered a nc 28 hqi with stand for 400 bucks brand new! not to mention shipping was 5.99 flat! i'm so excited! i don't want to be plugging for any company, but if you're interested in knowing where this deal came from, pm me! Link to comment
Sahin Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Well, some may remember I posted a thread about electricity usage of my 150watts halide ballast using around 245watts! I found a suitable ballast and checked with supplier who confirmed that it would work with my intended halide bulb. It arrived yesterday and I duly set about wiring it up to my JBJ/D&D 28G Nanocube HQI. The hood contains 4 cooling fans that run in addition to the halide bulb, so I was unsure how could get these to run once the new electronic ballast was in place. I thought I would have to end up using a suitable DC adaptor. Well, once I opened up the ballast housing, this is what it all looked inside: Notice all the wires and the little transformer to run the 4 cooling fans. You can just see edge of the old white magnetic coil. I thought I would have to cut the external wires etc. But I carefully looked at the wiring as well as copying it all down in case the new ballast didnt work or I had return the hood and ballast for warranty purposes, this is the result: Once that was all done, with a more carefully look, I reaslised I could retain the transformer to run the cooling fans, AND I could wire it all internally WITHOUT cutting any of the external wires. This meant the cord rurning from the exterior of the ballast will remain the same and the hood need not be touched. Here is the result after I wired in the new Tridonic Electronic/Digital Ballast: All looking good. It fitted nicely into the old housing and from the outside it all looks the same. It is as if nothing has changed! I think a job well done. Was quite impressed with myself. First time I ever looked inside a ballast, and managed to wire it all and get it correctly wired first time. I'm not a sparky by the way! Anyway, why did I do this again? 1. To cut down on electricity cost 2. To burn the 14K Phoenix Bulb at the correct wattage etc it was meant for - was being over driven by the manetic ballast resulting in the colour shifting away from the blue/violet end 3. Do my bit for the environment/carbon footprint How much did it cost? Only £15 / $24US for a brand new ballast and about 2 hours work! After I hooked it all up: 1. The bulb does burn with a bluer tint, as I wanted 2. The ballast runs MUCH cooler 3. The ballast PLUS the little transformer that runs the cooling fans are now using only 164 watts of power compared to 245 watts! 4. That saves me about £30 /$48US a year in electricity costs. 5. Not 100% sure on this, but I think the bulb may run a little cooler too as the hood was cooler to the touch. 6. No more excess heat from the ballast. Nor any humming noise. I suppose I have lost a small percentage of light the corals will receive, however, I think 150watts of it is quite sufficient in this small tank. Very happy with this mod as there are many benefits! Link to comment
Mike_Hancho Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Well, some may remember I posted a thread about electricity usage of my 150watts halide ballast using around 245watts! I found a suitable ballast and checked with supplier who confirmed that it would work with my intended halide bulb. It arrived yesterday and I duly set about wiring it up to my JBJ/D&D 28G Nanocube HQI. The hood contains 4 cooling fans that run in addition to the halide bulb, so I was unsure how could get these to run once the new electronic ballast was in place. I thought I would have to end up using a suitable DC adaptor. Well, once I opened up the ballast housing, this is what it all looked inside: Notice all the wires and the little transformer to run the 4 cooling fans. You can just see edge of the old white magnetic coil. I thought I would have to cut the external wires etc. But I carefully looked at the wiring as well as copying it all down in case the new ballast didnt work or I had return the hood and ballast for warranty purposes, this is the result: Once that was all done, with a more carefully look, I reaslised I could retain the transformer to run the cooling fans, AND I could wire it all internally WITHOUT cutting any of the external wires. This meant the cord rurning from the exterior of the ballast will remain the same and the hood need not be touched. Here is the result after I wired in the new Tridonic Electronic/Digital Ballast: All looking good. It fitted nicely into the old housing and from the outside it all looks the same. It is as if nothing has changed! I think a job well done. Was quite impressed with myself. First time I ever looked inside a ballast, and managed to wire it all and get it correctly wired first time. I'm not a sparky by the way! Anyway, why did I do this again? 1. To cut down on electricity cost 2. To burn the 14K Phoenix Bulb at the correct wattage etc it was meant for - was being over driven by the manetic ballast resulting in the colour shifting away from the blue/violet end 3. Do my bit for the environment/carbon footprint How much did it cost? Only £15 / $24US for a brand new ballast and about 2 hours work! After I hooked it all up: 1. The bulb does burn with a bluer tint, as I wanted 2. The ballast runs MUCH cooler 3. The ballast PLUS the little transformer that runs the cooling fans are now using only 164 watts of power compared to 245 watts! 4. That saves me about £30 /$48US a year in electricity costs. 5. Not 100% sure on this, but I think the bulb may run a little cooler too as the hood was cooler to the touch. 6. No more excess heat from the ballast. Nor any humming noise. I suppose I have lost a small percentage of light the corals will receive, however, I think 150watts of it is quite sufficient in this small tank. Very happy with this mod as there are many benefits! Wow thats pretty cool.. What Temp was the tank running before and after the mod? Link to comment
Sahin Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Haent measured the tank temps yet. I know wha the before mod temp is but not sure of what the after mod temp is. I wont be able to measure for a while as am cycling some of my rock, but I never run the lights during this time. Will measure and update though. Link to comment
Sahin Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 For those with the D&D/JBJ Nanocube HQI 28G, heat issue is quite a common thing. My living room where the tank is located is always a very warm room...good for the cold winters, but not so good due for having a tank with a halide light. I carried out various tests to see what the average temp the tank runs after the halides have been on for 8 hours. Typically, the tank will heat up an additional 10'F after the halides have run. I bought an Azoo twin fan and duly placed this over the rear "sump" area as everyone does. This does help, but, is limited to reducing the effect of the halide heating by about 5-6'F. So the tank still heats up an additional 4-5'F with the halides on. I wanted to improve on this without buying a chiller or adding additional fans. For I while I pondered with the idea of taking apart the Azoo fans and locating them inside the hood. This will also free up some space at the back... So, aftertaking apart the Azoo fans, I fixed the fans on either side of the front of the nanocube hood and wired the fans up as well as routing out the wire out one of the side vent: This provides the best placement of the fans for the cooling effect. Note that I have removed the feeding lid. This is required so that fresh air can enter and water vapour can flow out etc... I then cut a long strip of paper in a very thin slice and placed at the two side vents and notice that air was being forced out the vents! I also tested and found that air was also flowing to the back of the hood past the halide glass and coming out the two cut outs for the hinge mechanism! Wow, pretty good I thought. Airflow: My stand is very high and I dont mind having the feeding lid missing. Anyway, how much better is the cooling? Well, now with this mod, the fans can COOL the tank to a temp LOWER than what the temp was before the halide starts! They are that good now with this mod. I think it is a combination of evaporative cooling, but also, due to having the the airflow, some of the heat from the halide bulb that otherwise would heat up the water is routed out the vents! I can now keep my tank at a rock steady 79'F ALL the time (they are on a controller). The fans used to run around 14 hours per day if the halides were on for 8 hours as it would run for 8 hours whilst the halides were on, and then another 6 hours to bring the temp back to 79'F from 84'F. Now the when the halides comes on, the temp goes upto 80'F at which point the controller turns the fans on...they run for about 4 hours and bring the temp down to 79'F and so on... net effect is they run about 6 hours less = a few pennies saved heehee. No need to raise hood, buy chiller or go open top. The fans are very near the feeding opening and so water vapour does not build up in this area so I am not worried about them rusting etc. Even if they get damaged, I can easily replace them with same size PC fans which are much cheaper than the Azoo fan. If you are worried, replace them evr six months. Should cost you no more than a few £'s for each fan. Temp stats for this tank in my living room: 1. Heating due to halide = 1.1'F Per Hour 2. Cooling by Azoo fans (before mod) with halide OFF = 0.8'F Per Hour 3. Cooling b Azoo fans (before mod) with halide ON = 0.5'F Per hour 4. Cooling by Azoo FAN MOD with halide ON = 1.3'F Per Hour So you can easily see how even with the halides on, you can cool the tank. Phew...long write up... Link to comment
Phixion Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 Not sure if it's been mentioned in here, but has anyone seeing what JBJ has coming down the pipe soon here in December for the 28g tank?? I see a lot of nice potential in this one!! It's equal to the 150w HQI setup. Link to comment
Reef Infidel Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Can I join the club with a JBJ 28g Quad CF nano? I don't have much in the tank at the moment: 6 dwarf blue leg hermits 2 dwarf zebra hermits 2 nassarius snails 2 astrea snails 4 caribbean nerite snails 1 emerald crab 1 peppermint shrimp 1 blood red fire shrimp 1 chalk bass I plan to mainly focus on fish (once I get a fuge and a skimmer setup), but I plan to eventually add some zoas, a duncan, a ricordea or two and maybe some purple shrooms. FTS (w/hitchiker polyps [fron left]): Link to comment
Sahin Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Looking good there ReefZealot. Really like your rockwork. Link to comment
creatureteacher Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 This is a great thread! I started this tank about 10 weeks ago, so I don't have a lot in it yet. I had two things in mind when I started it. I wondered whether this tank would be sufficient with just the equipment it included, and I wanted to make it a Caribbean LOOKING reef (I say this because I know that most Caribbean corals are off limits, so I will have to substitute). The only equipment I added was a chiller and heater; everything else is stock. I started with 40 lbs live rock and 20 lbs live sand. Here are some photos from when I put in rock up to present. who else runs this set up? what mods have you done already... a quick profile and some pics of your tank would be cool also.. here's mine... Tank: 28g JBJ w/ NanoTuners upgrade Lighting: 150w MH DE (20k Radium bulb); (2) 18w PC actinics; (4) Moonlights Skimmer: Tunze Nano DOC 9002 Fuge: AquaFuge Medium size w/ chaeto Controller: Neptune AC JR Top Off: Tunze Osmolator Chiller: JBJ 1/15 HP Birthday: 09-09-08 Latest FTS: 09-11-08 Link to comment
clownfish14 Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 this is my nano cube hqi. no mods all stock. hope you like it. -clownfish14 Link to comment
OneTimer Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 Hello, Can anyone tell me if the MH on the KBK produces excess heat that the built in fans cannot handle and do you need to run a chiller? this is my nano cube hqi. no mods all stock. hope you like it. -clownfish14 Link to comment
clownfish14 Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 i dont run a chiller but my tank stays at a solid 83 all day and all night Link to comment
NanNewB Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 I have the same unit and added a chiller and my corals are much happier. I was always at the 81-83 but after reading several posts from everywhere I decided to bite the bullet and add the chiller. I have seen an improvement and now I'm always at the 77-78 mark. Link to comment
Colione Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Here's my latest with LEDs Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.