evilc66 Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 I like the idea for the plumbing between tanks. The twin pump setup scares me though. I don't think the second pump will be needed. With the u-tube setup, you will always have the water levels equalized. When the water is pumped from the fuge to the display, the water level in the fuge drops and the area behind the false wall in the display will follow. The water pumped into the display will now spill over the false wall and force the water level in the fuge up again. Because the same amount of water is taken out of the fuge and being put effectively into the area behind the false wall, it will stay level. If you have two pumps running, there will always be one pumping faster than the other. It will be very hard to tune the flow on both. Link to comment
j0hnny Posted September 18, 2008 Author Share Posted September 18, 2008 This should be sweet.....how much LR u planning in each??? Thank you! That's a good question. I haven't thought that far ahead yet. I have LR/sand/mud/etc. from my other system. I may order some rubble rock from Premium Aquatics. That's such good stuff. Perfect for this tank, and the rest I'll use for gluing frags to. Heck, while I'm at it, I might get some of their coraline rock too. =) We'll see. Link to comment
j0hnny Posted September 18, 2008 Author Share Posted September 18, 2008 I like the idea for the plumbing between tanks. The twin pump setup scares me though. I don't think the second pump will be needed. With the u-tube setup, you will always have the water levels equalized. When the water is pumped from the fuge to the display, the water level in the fuge drops and the area behind the false wall in the display will follow. The water pumped into the display will now spill over the false wall and force the water level in the fuge up again. Because the same amount of water is taken out of the fuge and being put effectively into the area behind the false wall, it will stay level. If you have two pumps running, there will always be one pumping faster than the other. It will be very hard to tune the flow on both. This is what I labored over pretty heavily. I did come up with one solution that would work, but it isn't as slick, nor as simple as the plan I'm going with. I'll draw some pics to give a better idea, but for conversation sake: Both tanks will be alike and have 2 chambers. Chamber A is the display (front half of the tank that you can see. Chamber B is the rear chamber behind the false wall - will not be visible from the front. A PVC pipe will Connect both Chamber B's together. This should always regulate the level in both rear chambers to be equal. Regardless if one pump pumps more than the other, or if one stops all together. A pump in Chamber 1B (back) will pump water into chamber 2A (display). A pump in chamber 2B (back) will pump water into chamber 1A (display). If either pump fails or slows down, it will limit, or stop the flow to the display chamber on the opposite tank. The rear sections will be like one continuous sump with two pumps supplying individual displays. Both displays overflow into the same sump. I'll draw a picture! Link to comment
JKUNZ Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 This is what I labored over pretty heavily. I did come up with one solution that would work, but it isn't as slick, nor as simple as the plan I'm going with. I'll draw some pics to give a better idea, but for conversation sake: Both tanks will be alike and have 2 chambers. Chamber A is the display (front half of the tank that you can see. Chamber B is the rear chamber behind the false wall - will not be visible from the front. A PVC pipe will Connect both Chamber B's together. This should always regulate the level in both rear chambers to be equal. Regardless if one pump pumps more than the other, or if one stops all together. A pump in Chamber 1B (back) will pump water into chamber 2A (display). A pump in chamber 2B (back) will pump water into chamber 1A (display). If either pump fails or slows down, it will limit, or stop the flow to the display chamber on the opposite tank. The rear sections will be like one continuous sump with two pumps supplying individual displays. Both displays overflow into the same sump. I'll draw a picture! You're right, If you connect both with a two way tube you solve any problem two pumps would create, considering the rears will have equal water levels consistantly. genius! I think it sound great, but maybe that's just me. So each chamber will have three holes?? 1) from pump (tank 1) to return (tank 2) 2) from pump (tank 2) to return (tank 1) 3) two way connecting both That's what you mean, right?? Link to comment
j0hnny Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 You're right, If you connect both with a two way tube you solve any problem two pumps would create, considering the rears will have equal water levels consistantly. genius! I think it sound great, but maybe that's just me. So each chamber will have three holes?? 1) from pump (tank 1) to return (tank 2) 2) from pump (tank 2) to return (tank 1) 3) two way connecting both That's what you mean, right?? You are exactly right, however, I'll be making 4 holes in each for plumbing. I'm going to put a "Y" off each of the return pumps. There will be two returns per display tank. (I have to use up some loc-line that's been laying around.) This set up should be pretty inexpensive because I'm going to bond all the fittings to the ABS tank floor, rather than using bulkheads. I'll probably be drilling some additional holes for power cordrs too. I'm going to experiment with bonding the jacket of the cord to the ABS directly. Basically mix up some ABS shavings, melt it down with some cement/MEK and make an ABS butter to fill in the gap around the power cables. Basically, if a unit fails... It's going to be extraordinarily inconvenient to swap! But the cool factor should make it worthwhile. I drew a picture last night, but ran ot of time to post it. I'll have access to the computer it's on in a few hours. I'll get that posted today, and I might even get started on the build tonight. Link to comment
angelacbishop Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Am I the only one super excited about the webcam? Link to comment
j0hnny Posted September 20, 2008 Author Share Posted September 20, 2008 OK, just so you guys know I'm not full of you know what. I'm posting the progress I've made so far: As promised, a flow diagram: Being careful was taking too long, and not very fun, so I went for the right tool. I put the tank in a tupperware bucket, covered it with a towel and gave it a whack with a ball-pien hammer. I had so much fun that I'm glad I got to do it on two tanks! Cut new bottoms out of ABS sheet and test fit in the bottom trim: Full tank shot: Bottom of tank: Both tanks, and a warning message: Pumps, and Loc-Line: That's all I have so far. Other than purcahsing the two tanks, I haven't spent any money yet. I've used scraps of ABS sheet and Loc-Line from my 20L display fuge project, my water change pumps, and some elbow grease. I'm unclear about the $15 dollar rule. If it is in effect, then nothing I've added so far has gone over that threshold. Tomorrow I'll cut the rear walls, and start mocking in the pumps, heater and loc-line. I've decided to run the power cords for the pumps and the heater through the bottom of the tanks as well. For each cord I'll be drilling a small hole, then cutting through to the edge of the sheet to slip the wires in, then bond the slit in the sheet with ABS glue, and seal the hole around the wire with something. I have to get all of this done before I seal the new bottoms on the tanks. Essentially I get one chance to assemble the tanks, fit both bottoms with all components, then glue them to the bottoms of both tanks. The way I'm building it, if I get it wrong on the first try, I'll have to start all over. I won't be able to remove the new bottoms without destroying the remainder of the tanks. This isn't a project for the light of heart, but what fun would it be otherwise!? FYI, in case anyone is interested in trying this with these tanks, the walls of the tanks rest on top of the bottom piece. This forces you to remove the bottom trim before you bust out the bottom - but will make for a much nicer end product I think. Also, it is absolutely easiest if you remove as much silicone (with a razor blade) before cracking the glass. This way you can remove the broken glass without breaking the walls. Until next time! Johnny Link to comment
Kraylen Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 Looks like a great start man.... taggin along. Link to comment
Prowland Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 looking good! I would be scared about the pumps pushing different volumes. Link to comment
JKUNZ Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 Looks awesome. The pumps won't be an issue coz he's included a two way tube connected both rear chambers, effectively making them act as one chamber. My only concern is if one of the pumps fails a few months in, and the cords are cemented through the flooring. Then what???? You should surpass 6 months easily before pumps become an issue though. I'm hooked johnny, need more!!!! Link to comment
evilc66 Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 Flow makes more sense now. Looks good. Link to comment
Zombo Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 FREAKING AWESOME! I'm so impressed by the thought you've put into this! Link to comment
j0hnny Posted September 20, 2008 Author Share Posted September 20, 2008 Thanks guys! I'm going to a local reef shop today to pick up some LR. If I can't find anything good, I'll buy rom Premium Aquatics. Their rubble is awesome, but shipping is outrageous for such a small amount. I'm also picking up the rest of the supplies needed to finish the plumbing/false walls. If I had some low voltage pumps, I'd just build plugs through the plastic - but I'm not messing with 110 in the water. If a pump does go out on me, I'll have to drain the rear chamber, cut the plug wire, feed it through the hole, and splice the plug pack on outside the tank. Not convenient, but it would work... After my trip to the stores today I should make some good progress, and at least get the tanks assembled tonight. Hopefully I can fill them with water by tomorrow to start leak testing. JKUNZ is correct, the pumps can pump at complete different rates, and there still won't be any flooding with this setup. As a matter of fact, the pumps are adjustable and I can vary the amount of flow to each tank. Might be a good idea if I were to put say, dwarf seahorses in the "refugium" (more like a planted display tank really..) I could turn the flow down on one side which won't affect the other side at all. Thanks for the compliments, I can't wait to get this thing working! Link to comment
got2envy Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 awesome plans so far! I am keeping up with your DIY build I wish I was handy Maria Link to comment
tubatime1010 Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 It's not outrageous for me! I live in their one day ground zone! I just ordered 10 pounds of rubble to help with the this DIY and it only cost me approx 15 bucks to ship. Link to comment
JKUNZ Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 Now that you mentioned dwarf seahorses I expect to see some!!! Link to comment
hxcaquaman Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 dwarfs would definately be a different change of pace, and with a small tank you could keep TONS of them Link to comment
Prowland Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 I live about 6 mins from premium aquatics!! The have this LR called timora or something... full of life! Link to comment
j0hnny Posted September 22, 2008 Author Share Posted September 22, 2008 Man, you guys are lucky to live near Premium Aquatics!! Shipping, for me, is more than the rock. Luckily I found some good rock locally. Tonight I started assembling the new tank bottoms. I clipped the power plugs near the wall outlet end,drilled holes through the tank floor, fed the power wires through, and put some 60 minute epoxy in the holes to seal them up nice and tight. All rear chamber plumbing holes have been cut too. I'm using 1.25" vinyl tubing to connect the two rear chambers together. Unfortunately, I made a mistake cutting the fittings too short, and they won't clear the bottom trim. The store was closed by the time I went back for replacements, so the plumbing and final assembly will have to wait until tomorrow. Additionally, I forgot to buy lumber for the stand, and this system won't work without a stand. All the wires and plumbing dropping through the bottom of the tank won't let them stand up straight. I'll post some pics tomorrow, when I have more interesting progress to share! Pump power wires routed through the floor of the tank: Heater power wire routed through the floor of the tank: Layout of the components on the floor of the tanks: Gratuitis shot of me and Todd Bridges in London (Heathrow Airport). Guess which one is me!?: Link to comment
pismo_reefer Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 thats awesome! the funny part is: you probably made his day by wanting a photo...hehe Link to comment
j0hnny Posted September 23, 2008 Author Share Posted September 23, 2008 After a bit of error and more error, I got these things glued back together. I used some elbow grease and a lot of silicone! The silicone is curing still. Later tonight I'll run a small bead along the edges of the back wall, and they should be ready for a fresh water test tomorrow!! I started building the stand too, I had to before I started gluing the tanks back together. I used e6000 to attach the plastic to the glass, then slapped silicone over that because I'm not sure if the e6000 will leach anything into the water. (Fingers crossed) Here are some shots of the nearly ready system: Rear of both tanks, on the stand - note high tech salt bucket and water change bucket used as weights to hold it all together while the adhesives are curing: Rear of right hand tank: Rear of Left hand tank: All electrical wiring routed through the bottom of the tank: All plumbing routed through the bottom of the tank: Later tonight I'll reconnect all the power plugs and mount the power strip. Tomorrow I'll connect the plumbing and run fresh water through the system!! Maybe by the end of the week I'll start cycling. Link to comment
BibleSue Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 I like the look. Are you going to be able to remove the things with the wires running through the bottom of the tank for cleaning? Link to comment
Prowland Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 ....now I get it! haha Looks good Link to comment
j0hnny Posted September 23, 2008 Author Share Posted September 23, 2008 I like the look. Are you going to be able to remove the things with the wires running through the bottom of the tank for cleaning? Thank you for the compliment! Uh... cleaning? I designed this tank to be ...uh... self cleaning! Yes, the components are on suction cups and have enough slack in the wires to allow me to pull them out. I probably should have had the wires and the tubing from the pumps exit the same side... but it's too late now. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. The heater won't come all the way out, but I will be able to get it up and out of the way. If this doesn't work, I'll turn it into an over/under install with a waterfall dropping out the bottom of the upper tank into the sump. I think it will work. =) ....now I get it! haha Looks good Thank you! Does it make a bit more sense? Later tonight I'll post some pics of the front chambers, and some birds.worms eye views Link to comment
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