rhinoivory Posted July 27, 2001 Share Posted July 27, 2001 Today I saw something that could change the attitude of many regarding this hobby. After having an in depth discussion with my LFS over light fixtures available in Australia he showed me the lighting he uses on his 30 gallon show tank, 18 inches deep, housing acroporas, blue maximas, brains and one anemone, along with a plantation of mushrooms and polyps. To my amazement I SAW AND INVESTIGATED that IT WAS run on 4 NO LIGHTS!!!!!!!!!!! What is going on! The inhabitants (corals, e.t.c) are vibrant, he has corraline everywhere ! Is there a logical explanation for this? I always thought that they were VHO lights or something but I checked pricing and specification of the lights and they are just good quality aquarium no fluoros!!!! Link to comment
Christopher Marks Posted July 27, 2001 Share Posted July 27, 2001 I have seen this a lot with garf.org. My guess is that it has a lot to do with coral placement. The acros are at the very top, and low light corals are at the bottom. It's hard to say why some people have success with NO lighting, and others don't. If he sells corals from it, it works because the specimines don't stay in that tank very long. All in all....it beats the heck outta me. Link to comment
rhinoivory Posted July 27, 2001 Author Share Posted July 27, 2001 He doesnt sell any corals from it, nor fish. It's just one of those set-ups for "added decoration" to the aquarium. The acros and other sps are everywhere, at the bottom, top, it's compelling, yet so, so, weird! How do you find Garf.orf ? It's a pretty informative website, though, at times, it can become a bit to technical........................ Link to comment
Fant Posted August 19, 2001 Share Posted August 19, 2001 Iv seen similiar things. I know of a 715 gallon tank that is lit with a combination of VHO and PCs. The owner of the store and the tank swears that MH kill and harm corals. He has some of the most colorful corals I have ever seen. He also has tanks with just NO bulbs i think the largest is a 75 and the smallest is a 10 or 12 gallon. The 12 gallon has one bulb on it, with a thriving bubble tip anemone. Last time i was there it had split once previously and one of the new ones was about to split again. It confuses me also, I have a few theories one being since he fast access to the corals they have a better chance of adapting to those light levels. I purchased a few corals from him and they did wonderful under NO lighting, when i upgraded to PC they did outstanding. I purchased some new sps from a different source that used MH lighting, those that came from the MH lighting arent doing as well. I think a major point in choosing lighting is to consider where your corals are coming from. I believe it is harder to acclimate them to different light levels then what we fully understand. Sorry for the long post. Link to comment
rhinoivory Posted August 20, 2001 Author Share Posted August 20, 2001 You are exactly right, it has been prooven that if you frag an sps and then add it to your system when it is very small, it will grow faster and healthier. Link to comment
Korova Posted September 17, 2001 Share Posted September 17, 2001 Check-out GARF's site, they use NO's all the time. Maybe give them a call, they're allways very helpfull when I've called... Link to comment
schrader Posted September 24, 2001 Share Posted September 24, 2001 I have always used NO lighting on my tanks(haven't had the money to up grade) I have a colt ,buttenpylps,devels hand,?blue coral,woodpylps,and a long tentecal anenome.everything is growing great.It is a 30 gallon.I got them all when they were small the anenome has been in there for just over a year.Just thought I would share.Brad Link to comment
Charlene1028 Posted September 24, 2001 Share Posted September 24, 2001 I know this is probably a stupid question but im new sooo..What does the initials stand for...VHO,PC,MH,and NO...Thanx Link to comment
Charlene1028 Posted September 24, 2001 Share Posted September 24, 2001 I know this is probably a stupid question but im new sooo..What does the initials stand for...VHO,PC,MH,and NO...Thanx Link to comment
schrader Posted September 25, 2001 Share Posted September 25, 2001 VHO very high output fluorescent NO normal output fluorescent PC power compact fluorescent MH metal halide (HID high intensity discharge lamps) Brad Link to comment
sergentmajor Posted October 5, 2001 Share Posted October 5, 2001 the photosyntesis may happen also in dark Link to comment
Son Of Skyline Posted November 14, 2001 Share Posted November 14, 2001 Quote: from Charlene1028 on 3:37 pm on Sep. 24, 2001[br]I know this is probably a stupid question but im new sooo..What does the initials stand for...VHO,PC,MH,and NO...Thanx Uh...Since you brought it up..What does LPS, SPS stand for? (Another beginner here!) Link to comment
Daniel Posted November 15, 2001 Share Posted November 15, 2001 sps = Small-polyped stone lps= large-polyped stone Link to comment
reefohalic Posted December 22, 2001 Share Posted December 22, 2001 i have been doing some reading and according to what i read the corals that do fine in no bulbs are down deep in the sea were there isn't alot of light and some need alot of light do to them being up on the top. you can actualy acclimate them to higher light out put but have to be bery carefull not to bleach the corals. Link to comment
theviking Posted January 8, 2002 Share Posted January 8, 2002 ive been checking out light for my upcoming 30 gallon reef and i live in iceland so there isnt alot of lighting available for reef aquariums now but the shops are bringin in alot of saltwater corals and fish and everything you need exept VHO or PC ligthing i dont know why but it is so ok i have herd that soft corals do well with NO ligths is this true!!! and they have MH ligths but they are pretty expensive 250-500$ and if it is ok to have NO ligths i will have just soft corals Link to comment
Guy Posted January 12, 2002 Share Posted January 12, 2002 Just my 2 cents on the Garf reference. When you follow the progression of the tanks, they always mention that they start out with 2-3 NO bulbs, but when you read the updates posted by Sally jo over the following months, she has upgraded her tanks to VHO over time. I do think the response by Fant makes a lot of sense. I never thought of that before. Guy Link to comment
printerdown01 Posted February 22, 2002 Share Posted February 22, 2002 No b.s. I used to run a 55 gallon with 4 NO bulbs!! I even kept clams. I always kept them about mid tank, never attempted to keep them at the bottom! But it is VERY possible. Some tanks just react differently for some reason. I have seen other tanks that absolutely needed the major lights, 'cause their owners couldn't get anything to stay with NOs! I currently keep a nano with 30W of NO... everything is doing just fine!! I even have a sps that hitch-hiked with my LR. It was almost dead when I got it, but it is comming back... It's regrowth process is slow though (probably be a lot faster if I had better lighting). I'm not keeping it this way though, I'm upgrading to PCs, should be ariving in a couple of days (thanks Chris ). But it is MOST certainly possible, I'm living proof!! I actually just checked and there is a pict of it on my site... It is labled and everything as "almost dead from shipping" I think... Link to comment
Samc Posted February 22, 2002 Share Posted February 22, 2002 I use 110 watts pc + 2 32 watt NO bulbs (these are different, made by zoomed, they put out slightly more lux than the standard NO) on my 75. Anyway, before I got the PC lights, I had a bubble tip , and it died within 6 months (turning from green to white). Since, I have never tried corals or anemones. I wonder if this is enough light (I thought I you need 3-4 watts per gallon). I don't use the PC, being that I only have LR, LS, shrimp (my family is a major fan of them), 3 fish (Dwarf Angel, Gold rimmed surgeon, and a yellow tailed damsel) and a cleaner package from ffexpress.com. The live rock has ok coralline growth, just with the NO. i am wondering If I could add some softies, putting the PC'S back on the tank. By the way, I use a wet/dry filter (currently, we are replacing the bio balls with LR), and a Prizm skimmer (it works well, a little finicky to adjust). Thanks! Sam Link to comment
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