My DIY Tank

[Nolimdien]

Going for a basic tank with filter in the back. I plan to have macro algae in the area where water comes into the filter and live rock in the next section.

 

I was too lazy to make it look like there tubing from the pipe to the return hole, there's going to be tubing going from the pump to the return hole, and from there maybe a piece of Y plumbing to get more flow going.

 

I plan to keep a relatively mixed tank, but more LPS than anything at this point. I am planning on 3x 24W T5 HO (I'm unsure of which colors at this point).

 

The tank's dimensions are 2' x2' x1'.

Taking 6" of width for the back filter.

So the display area is 2' x 1.5' x1' and the filter is 2' x 0.5' x 1'.

 

Roughly 28 gallons total - and roughly 21gallons for the display section.

 

 

My questions are:

1) Would one stronger pump with a Y section into the tank be enough flow? The pumps I am looking at are about 315g/hr.

2) What color temperature should I go with on the 3 T5s? I like a white-ish look with some actinic ( I don't want it really blue, but bring out the colors in my corals).

3) Is 3x 24W T5 HO's enough lighting for what I'm looking for?

4) Is that an effective area for my heater to go?

5) I was looking at a 75W heater, is that enough?

6) Anything I missed or any other suggestions?

 

Over all, I'm happy with the way that I think it will look but this will be my first DIY so I don't have much experience.

 

Thanks!

[121a]

um it is called DIY, not DYI. LOL, other than that it should be a very cool tank. are you going to be using glass or acrylic?

 

Well to answer some of your questions:

1. The only problem with pumps like maxi-jets and other powerheads like that is they have linear flow. This is just a straight 'jet' of flow and not dispersed like in the ocean. You might be able to get away with 310gph, but you will have dead spots, where little to know water will flow. A korlia 1 might be something to look into.

 

2. Why not 4 t-5s, you'll only find retro kits available in 2 and 4. Check my link at the bottom of my sig, has a bunch of pics and bulb combos. I heard many say ATI, blue plus and aqua blues, you can find a good selection of bulbs here:

http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5_Fluorescent/Bulbs/

 

3. I would go with 4, you will be able to keep anything.

 

4. The only problem i see is if the water level drops and the heater goes dry. You could always put it in the fuge.

 

5. You might be ok, i would personally go with 100w.

 

6. Your overflow leading right to the fuge might lead to the sand in there to get stirred up. That is the only thing i see wrong.

 

Good luck!

[Ernie McCracken]

DYI = Do Yourself In?

[evilc66]

121a is right about the potential sand storm. You should look at changing the baffle that is after the surface skimmer to go all the way to the bottom, and have the top at a lower height than the bottom of the surface skimmer. Maybe add a few holes lower down to promote flow lower in the fuge so it doesn't just skim across the top leaving the fuge stagnant. You will also want to lower the baffle at the other end of the fuge so it's the same height, or just lower than the first one. You can then put the heater in the first chamber when the water level will be constant and you won't cook the heater.

[abe]

substrate directly underneath the overflow is not a good idea. will keep your water cloudy and will get substrate into your last chamber, which is best kept clean.

 

EDIT: seems like that base has been covered already

[Nolimdien]

Well that's a bit embarassing, 1:30am posts before bed usually lead to some fun typos like that.

 

Was going with 3x T5's because I found a kit that I liked and it came with 3. I'm in Australia and there are some things here that aren't sold in the US and vise-versa. I just didn't want too much light for my corals, it's only going to be 10"-11" deep at the deepest with substrate.

 

So put another baffle down at the bottom after the overflow so that the substrate is separated? I was thinking the macro algae would soften the flow and wouldn't disturb the substrate too much, but then again, I really have no idea.

[Nolimdien]

Okay, here's the second try. This one seems like it would work better. As for the flow, I'd like to get one of those Tunze powerheads but they are $120+ here and I was looking to save money where I could. I like the way the Tunze powerheads look though, but I don't see any other powerheads that look as clean (not hanging or screwed in to something).

 

121a: It's a glass aquarium with the filter/display separation panel being black acrylic. I was just going to go with clear acrylic for the baffles.

 

Questions:

1) How does the "improved" set up look?

 

2) Any other alternatives to tunze power heads or should I get a larger pump to make the flow stronger? That would make more water go through my filter though, I'm not sure if that's good or bad.

 

3) I was going to load up that second section of the filter with live rock, how much would you recommend I put in? I just planned on filling it to the top of the baffles, but is that too much?

 

4) My design is not exact, how far apart should baffles be from eachother?

 

Thanks again!

[noobofreefs]

Load where the substrate is with chaeto. Make sure to give it a little hanging light and it'll export nutrients great.

 

I have a koralia powerhead. Works great & is way cheaper here at least.

[Nolimdien]

Thanks, I found this one for $65. Is that enough for my tank or do I need something more?

http://www.aquariumproducts.com.au/catalog...41&catID=41

 

Take out all the substrate in the back and replace it with the macro? I wasn't going to put much live rock in the diplay section so I was going to try to compensate it in the back.

[121a]

the baffles should be .25inches from each other to ensure proper flow. what size glass are you using?

[Nolimdien]

The tank is made out of 6mm and 10mm glass, 0.23" and 0.4". I'm not making the tank myself, all the glass places wanted to charge twice as much as a already built tank I found online. I'm just designing around the tank that I found.

 

Would size acryclic would you suggest for the baffles?

 

Thanks a lot for your help so far!

[norcal99]

I like your second design better and to even further improve your design, I would add a taller baffle with teeth at in front of the second set of baffles. Like has been mentioned, load up the 2nd chamber with some macro algae (chaetomorpha) with a small clip on light and that will be an excellent nutrient export and if you run it on a reverse lighting cycle, will help to stabilize pH swings when your main lights go off. As for the first chamber with the heater, that looks ok and if you really wanted, you could even throw some live rock rubble for added filtration. A Hydor Koralia 1 (or nano) would probably be a good idea for added flow to help reduce dead spots once you get the tank up and running.

 

Everyone has their own opinions on how far baffles should be apart from each other but I prefer to have them 1" apart from each other just because it helps to slow down the flow. When the baffles are closer together, the velocity of water traveling through your baffle system will be faster which could create a microbubble issue. As for acrylic thickness, just any 1/8" stuff should be enough.

 

I like your design and it should be a KILLER tank!

[evilc66]

1" separation is a bit excessive. 1/2" will be more than enough.

[Nolimdien]

Why take out the substrate and LR and replace with macro? Does it filter the water better or are the nutrients that it creates much more important than corals?

[norcal99]

Why take out the substrate and LR and replace with macro? Does it filter the water better or are the nutrients that it creates much more important than corals?

 

Keep the LR and substrate, but also add some macro in the center section. It's commonly used as a nutrient export as when your main display lights are, your corals are photosynthesizing thus sucking up nutrients. When the display lights go out, have your macro algae light flip on (reverse photo period) and your macro will be photosynthesizing and growing thus continuing to export nutrients. It's also got a few other benefits, most notably it will help reduce pH fluctuations at night.

[crrichey]

Hehehe, return hole.

[Nolimdien]

I like your second design better and to even further improve your design, I would add a taller baffle with teeth at in front of the second set of baffles.

 

I'm not sure I'm following what you mean by that there. Would that be to help prevent algae or other material from going into the pump section?

 

 

 

Okay I used my superior photoshop skills to create different images of how I should fill the back section.

 

Substrate with Live Rock

 

Substrate with Macro

 

All Macro Algae

 

All Macro Algae and Live Rock in the over flow section

 

All of the above

[Nolimdien]

Bump for the last few questions.

[Shortie]

I vote all macro unless you are going to go bare bottom. In that case, add the substrate to the rear chamber.

[Nolimdien]

I've managed to come up with another question. It's about the flow in the display tank this time:

I'm still unsure of which powerhead(s) I'm going to put into the tank to get the flow moving.

 

This one I found on special for $60! It's 3000lph (800gph)

http://www.aquariumproducts.com.au/catalog...12&catID=41

 

For $65 - Hydor Koralia Nano 900lph (240gph)

http://www.aquariumproducts.com.au/catalog...41&catID=41

 

And for $95 - Hydor Koralia 1500lph (400gph)

http://www.aquariumproducts.com.au/catalog...49&catID=41

 

I'm looking to save money where I can of course, but I'd like to not have any dead spots (no flow areas) in my tank. I'm sure I've mentioned it above but I'm looking to keep my euphyllia and cataphyllia in this tank, so having too much flow would not be ideal.

 

1) Any ideas on which to by and/or placement of the powerhead(s)?

 

2) Has anyone here used the Hydor FLO? I was thinking it might be cool to hook it up to my return pump. It's only $25, I might give it a try.

http://www.aquariumproducts.com.au/catalog...37&catID=78

 

 

Thanks as usual!

[aparnold]

2) Has anyone here used the Hydor FLO? I was thinking it might be cool to hook it up to my return pump. It's only $25, I might give it a try.

http://www.aquariumproducts.com.au/catalog...37&catID=78

 

 

I use one in my 12g nano. It works great, but be aware it will greatly reduce your flow, so make sure you get a pump strong enough to compensate. I added a Koralia nano in addition to it, even after swapping the pump. I really like it though. It creates a very rhythmic water current.