Jeffry83 Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Made a small video update of my latest inhabitant, A Orange Diamond Goby, i love that little sand digger. Quote Link to comment
nam2212 Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Anyone else had problems with the glass scratching easily on the RSM? I used a Magfloat on it and it scratched the glass all over the sides. I checked and there was no sand or anything on the Magfloat. Are these known for the glass scratching easily? Quote Link to comment
StevieT Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 Glass is pretty much glass. Mine has only scratched on my own account. Sand probably in the algae cleaner. Check again grain doesn't have to be big at all to scratch glass. On another note, part of having an aquarium is that it will scratch over time. No matter how careful you are. Quote Link to comment
nam2212 Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Glass is pretty much glass. Mine has only scratched on my own account. Sand probably in the algae cleaner. Check again grain doesn't have to be big at all to scratch glass. On another note, part of having an aquarium is that it will scratch over time. No matter how careful you are. I have never had a problem with scratching another tank. I am sure it was sand in the Magfloat but I wasn't able to find any. Oh......can you add me to the owners list? Thanks. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=283521 Quote Link to comment
Jeffry83 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Something that i have noticed with a Magfloat, is that between the Magfloat and the glass some hard algae can develop, or other stuff like those little tiny worms that make a home on everything they want. I use a toothbrush to clean my tank once a while, like at the wire sections were salt builds up, a weekly rub over that Magfloat is also a good thing to do weekly. Quote Link to comment
amiralisomji Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 for an RSM250, what would you guys recommend - the Vortech MP10 or MP40? Quote Link to comment
anseK Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 for an RSM250, what would you guys recommend - the Vortech MP10 or MP40? MP40. I have an MP10 in my 130D and if you are going to have just one you will need more than what a single MP10 can produce to create what I feel is the desired amount of circulation. Quote Link to comment
Spirofucci Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 You might consider two MP10s at opposite ends programmed to change flow 180 degrees. Let us know what you decide with pics of course. Quote Link to comment
amiralisomji Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 okay, so i update my question: would you all recommend 1xMP40 on one side, or 2xMP10's on opposite ends? Quote Link to comment
Spirofucci Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 amiralisomji, you might want to pose this question in the general area, I think you'll get more views and responses. I think its a good question and I'd like to see the responses here as well. thanks Quote Link to comment
StevieT Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 If you have the cash (2) MP10's for sure Quote Link to comment
amiralisomji Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 amiralisomji, you might want to pose this question in the general area, I think you'll get more views and responses. I think its a good question and I'd like to see the responses here as well. thanks Posted: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=286971 Lets see what others think... Quote Link to comment
gwcreefer Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 I was wondering if anybody did a LED lighting upgrade besides Nguyen Led over 2 years ago. I've been looking at doing a diy, but not really sure what works in a 130 RSM. Quote Link to comment
Red Sea Reefer Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 I was wondering if anybody out there goes topless with there tank? I can tell the stock hood/lighting will require a chiller for me this summer. Wife likes the house around 80 and I don't mind with 0.30 cent kWh electrical rates. If you go topless is there any way to keep the clean look of the RSM. How can I cover just the back skimmer/electrical area? If I can figure a way to look good going topless I would like to add LED's and a fan to aid in evaporative cooling. Quote Link to comment
StevieT Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 I've been topless for years now. I've tried to keep the figure up but it's tough with a desk job There is a need for a cover, I see it now. I have custom one that was made years ago but it's time to spread it's wings.... stay tuned Quote Link to comment
Red Sea Reefer Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Yes indeed there is a need. I would like to see something that slipped over the back covering the skimmer/electrical/media. I would like to run topless with LED in the summer, then cover up and run stock hood/lighting in the winter. This would be the best of both worlds for me. If you have a prototype I will volunteer to try it out and give you feedback. I will be waiting to see what you release. Quote Link to comment
StevieT Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 Once you go LED there is no way you're putting the stock hood back on and looking at that color pallet ever again. - just my prediction You can see my cover here Quote Link to comment
Red Sea Reefer Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Now that's what I'm talking about. Simple snd sleek. I would think you could sell enough of these to make it worth your time. I'm a new to the hobbie but LED seems it will be taking a large share of the lighting market. Going topless is the best way to beat the heat in a tank and you have more work to tweak RSM tanks to give the community what they desire. Quote Link to comment
StevieT Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 A production unit will just be a bit taller. I have a custom really short cup in there on the 9002, only becuase my previous light was lower and bulky. It will have to be made to fit the cups that everyone has in the tank. I also removed the tabs that hold the rear pins for the stock hood, a taller cover should eliminate the need to do that. If you get a chance let me know how tall those pieces are. Quote Link to comment
picoreef78 Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Does anyone have PAR readings for the stock lighting? They seem to be doing a good job, I just added some brown stag horn acropora (I think) to the top of the tank and hope they will do well. I like the new Ecotech Radion but on the fence about getting it (no Mac compatibility for now). Quote Link to comment
StevieT Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 I had good luck growing SPS and a clam up top with the stock lights. They are pretty bright. Quote Link to comment
picoreef78 Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Everything is growing really well. So far, new to SPS. All my ricordea have split once, Hammer and Torch growing nicely as well has chalice and my Zoa's are out of control. My toadstool went from Brown to florence green polyps and damage to my Mycedeium Robokaki and Oxyporalacera healing nicely. My green chalice (unknown) was brown now green with red florescent highlights. That light looks pretty cool though, programmable more natural lighting. Here is a link with the newest of pictures, just changed the lights. My Acans spread out as does the BTA. Just curious on PAR for comparison, they give the 4w/g not useful byline. http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...72977&st=20 Quote Link to comment
Red Sea Reefer Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 A production unit will just be a bit taller. I have a custom really short cup in there on the 9002, only becuase my previous light was lower and bulky. It will have to be made to fit the cups that everyone has in the tank. I also removed the tabs that hold the rear pins for the stock hood, a taller cover should eliminate the need to do that. If you get a chance let me know how tall those pieces are. Stevie, I will get back to you tonight with those measurement's. I will take the hood off to get exact clearance for you. I could see another mod for production as well if it is cost effective for you. I would like a clear plexiglass hood to cover and keep the heat in the tank durring the winter. Simple enough for your average DIY but you have the problem of water condensation gathering on the top. Could you make one that was slightly dome or A frame shaped? Just enough of an angle to keep the water from colletecting on it. I turn the heat off at night in the common area of the house where the tank is. A cover would help the tank run more efficiently. Also if people are going topless somesort of mesh cover with a frame to fit in the rim of the tank would be nice. Keep on working hard and making up for RSM's shortcomming's. Quote Link to comment
Red Sea Reefer Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 As promised I took the measurement for you Stevie. The height to the top of the clips is 3 1/8 inch. On another note I noticed the bio cube has a cleaner look with the top off. I found the BC 29 with stand online for $410. My LFS let me return the used RSM and for $100 more they price matched and I got the BC29. I will contact you via storefront I just bought all your gear for the RSM and would like to exchange for BC gear. Thanks alot. Keep putting out great products. Quote Link to comment
StevieT Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 Thank you for the measurement Quote Link to comment
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