Red Sea Max Index Thread

[modulok]

Blow

[inTank]

That's what she said

[Spirofucci]

I think it should blow in over the pumps.

[metrokat]

Has anyone installed a CPR overflow box on a hooded RSM 130D?

[metrokat]

Was woken up, again, at 3am by a rattling awful noise from one of the RSM pumps. I turned it off again, I've already opened it to check for obstructions when this happened last week. Do the RSM return pumps have a genetic problem?

No point replacing it with a RSM stock pump if it has these problems.

[Spirofucci]

I had intermitant rattling a while back. I did buy two more RSM pumps from Stevie to have spares, they not very expensive. However, it turns out that a snail or two got caught in one. No problems since.

[StevieT]

It is a wear item. They don't have a genetic problem IME.

[metrokat]

would i be better off with an MJ900?

[StevieT]

Do you want to mod that area to make it fit?

[metrokat]

i thought it fit fine. nope no mods.

[Jessy-Ray]

I had one of my pumps crap out on me a while back, it was all good when i turned it off before I did a water change but when i switched it back on it was kaput???????. They're worth 50 bucks over here but the lfs showed me another manufacturer who produces the same pump for 20 bucks!. Oh and stevie is that a no for me being on the list or ???

[Jon Lazar]

My pumps sometimes rotate slightly around the point where the nozzle passes through the back of the tank. When this happens, the top of the pump casing can touch the glass between the pump section and the heater section. This makes a very loud buzzing. When I straighten the pump, the buzzing stops nicely.

[metrokat]

Thanks everyone. Working with Aviad on the issue.

 

Next issue is a film at the water surface. I removed the surface skimmer as it takes up too much space. In keeping the water level high enough for the pumps to function, the water doesn't "fall" through the grate on to my media basket, the level back there is rather high because the tank is very full. Aiming my powerhead or return pumps at the surface will fix the issue but also causes splashing on the light cover.

Any suggestions to fix the surface film problem?

[metrokat]

So I chanced upon a custom lighting upgrade for the RSM 130 which includes 24 LED's.

It is not a DIY, you send your hood to the company, they do they install and send it back.

Cost of parts and labor is $225 plus shipping both ways to and from Louisiana.

 

UNFREAKINGBELIEVABLE!

 

omgomgomg

[supernip]

I always took you as more of the rimless type

[metrokat]

I love my hood!

[supernip]

I stand corrected

[metrokat]

Thanks everyone. Working with Aviad on the issue.

 

Next issue is a film at the water surface. I removed the surface skimmer as it takes up too much space. In keeping the water level high enough for the pumps to function, the water doesn't "fall" through the grate on to my media basket, the level back there is rather high because the tank is very full. Aiming my powerhead or return pumps at the surface will fix the issue but also causes splashing on the light cover.

Any suggestions to fix the surface film problem?

The answer to my own question:

 

Q: There a dirty film floating on the surface of the water.

A: The dirty film is simply detritus, or dead organic matter, that has risen to the surface of the water and is held there by surface tension. Under normal conditions, surface detritus is drawn into the filtration system. However, if your MAX is filled right up to the base of the rim (i.e. so you can't see the waterline from the outside), then the surface of the water will actually be above the level of the filter inlet grill, meaning that it does not get drawn into the filtration system. There is no easy way around this, other than to lower the water level (permanently or temporarily) so that the waterline falls to below the top of the inlet grill, or to increase surface turbulence by repositioning the powerheads.

 

If lower the water level to avoid the film coating at the surface and the return pumps start throwing bubbles as noted earlier.

I raise it to avoid the pump throwing bubbles and the surface film appears.

I position the return nozzle to blow at the surface and get salt water splashed on the light lens and my LED's.

 

Great.

[Smity]

Kat why dont you just use the upgraded skimmer attachment?

 

 

I have been meaning to ask you Steve do you know of anyone that has made a successful refugium in the 130 instead of a skimmer atleast for some cheato? Im pretty sure there too much flow back there and the cheato would just get sucked down to the third(return) chamber but idk if its worth exploring?

 

I'll be setting up a 130 soon also just need my InTank!

[metrokat]

I'm skimmerless by choice due to the abundance of macros. I actually did use the back chamber for Chaeto and it worked well. Use a small slice of the stock black sponge to fit the baffle the heater goes in (heater can be removed from that chamber and suctioned on to the media basket or tunze.

 

Right now I have a nano reactor in the back.

 

EDIT: you mean the surface skimmer?

Yes I had that, and as you will see for yourself, the thing messes with the water level, takes up too much space and will need to be removed.

[Smity]

I dont understand how it takes up space when its in the upper right corner? I did do a test fill on my tank and it seemed to hold the water level fine while the pump chamber lowered so im a bit confused why it will need to be removed when it was a upgraded design? I dont mind running the water line lower than the trim as long as the display volume stays the same.

 

I take it your water is higher than the trim?

[metrokat]

Well, for starters, here's my tall rock work:

The surface skimmer is rather big and juts out considerably and would touch my scape. But my scape aside, other RSM owners have also opted not to use this upgrade for water level issues. For some reason the balance of water in the RSM is harder to maintain. Lower waterline in DT results in bubbles being blown by the pumps because water pouring over the baffle of the heater chamber causes bubbles that are sucked into the pumps and chopped up and voila: micro bubbles in display.

 

With the surface skimmer, even a little evaporation caused a big drop in the water flowing to the back.

My ATO was pumping water repeatedly into the back chambers and to the brim of the DT, I was worried of an overflow at some points.

 

Much of this cannot be explained, you have to experience it.

[Smity]

Ahhh, I see what you mean especially with your rockwork. Has anyone ever tried wedging something to stablize the skimmer upgrade so it doesnt use the water level to hold it up?

[metrokat]

It doesn't use the water level to hold it up. It attaches with an adjustable slider.

 

You have to keep adjusting it as water evaporates

[Smity]

umm... I am confused then doesnt the water level drop in the return section and not in the display like a normal sump and thats why most people put the auto topoff in the return section...

 

*can someone else chime in because either Kat or myself are very confused on this AIO system.

Edited May 8, 2012 by Smity