** StevieT's How to Change Water Guide **

[Atari]

yes, soak everything that is involved in your ATO in vinager, then rinse with fresh water.

 

Ever other week or so?

 

If you are making up water in "dirty" buckets and having it grow things for two weeks, it can't be a good thing. I would change that as well.

 

Sounds like I got a lot of cleaning to do to night...

 

Thanks for all the help.

[StevieT]

not every other week. I have only done it once in a year, but it doesn't grow any junk either. The ATO is only for RO water.

 

I would do it every few months in your case since it sounds like you get algae growth. As for the buckets, rinse and clean after every use.

[Militant Jurist]

I know this is slightly OT on the subject of getting rid of coralline on the glass, but I use an old credit card (or gift card). To get the corners, I bend the card in the middle, and it seems to do the trick!

[Atari]

yes, soak everything that is involved in your ATO in vinager, then rinse with fresh water.

 

If you are making up water in "dirty" buckets and having it grow things for two weeks, it can't be a good thing. I would change that as well.

THANK YOU!

 

I finally had the chance to clean everything with vinegar a few days ago. Last night I did the first water change with the "clean" equipment. 24 hours later I have seen about a 70% decrease in diatoms and expect to see them gone tomorrow!

[StevieT]

wow, thats awesome! Good to hear it helped

[Cytosol]

I have a quick question. Can I use a powerhead like a maxi-jet to mix the water, as well as pump water from the mixing container up to the tank? Just put some tubing on the outlet? Also, what size tubing will I need and will I need an adapter to do this?

 

I think this is a much nicer solution rather than lifting a 10g bucket up and pouring it into the tank like I used to do!

[masterbuilder]

I use a old mag-drive pump. Have to remember that a maxi-jet cant pump uphill very far.

[StevieT]

I have a quick question. Can I use a powerhead like a maxi-jet to mix the water, as well as pump water from the mixing container up to the tank? Just put some tubing on the outlet? Also, what size tubing will I need and will I need an adapter to do this?

 

I think this is a much nicer solution rather than lifting a 10g bucket up and pouring it into the tank like I used to do!

 

 

yes, you can. The hose needed is 1/2 ID

[bzphotog]

thank you for the post very informative...cleared up some noob q's i had

[NanoCube-boy]

Sticky.... Like glue. Awesome information.

[here fishy fishy]

I do this on my black substrate in my office tank. Just spot suck all the garbage up.

 

Okay, so you guys mean regular airline tubing? Not the tube that comes with the wide end for siphoning? I tried the siphon tube today with out the siphon end just for kicks....got plenty 'o sand, some snails, a couple loose shrooms....that sucker was slurping everything up. Then I thought, I bet they might mean regular thin airline tubing, which would be great for tight spots.

[StevieT]

yep, try the smaller tubing, it should suck less

[here fishy fishy]

yep, try the smaller tubing, it should suck less

Thanks! Sounds like a great idea!

[StevieT]

Let us know how it goes, it should help others.

[coralcor]

now that this thread is up. do you use a food safe bucket for mixing and a normal one for taking water out?

[StevieT]

what do you mean by up? It is really old.

 

Food safe, well that would be the best option but I just use buckets that were new. Plastics are not all made the same but take like a homer bucket from home deopt, those are fine to use. I have a green one and a white one. That way I always use the green one for waste and the white one for mixing.

 

I do change my mixing bucket about every 6 months just to be safe since even with cleaning there is salt buildup and who knows what else from storage every week. My new one is an old salt bucket from Red Sea Coral Pro.

[coralcor]

what do you mean by up? It is really old.

 

Food safe, well that would be the best option but I just use buckets that were new. Plastics are not all made the same but take like a homer bucket from home deopt, those are fine to use. I have a green one and a white one. That way I always use the green one for waste and the white one for mixing.

 

I do change my mixing bucket about every 6 months just to be safe since even with cleaning there is salt buildup and who knows what else from storage every week. My new one is an old salt bucket from Red Sea Coral Pro.

by up i ment ok this threads back. i havent seen it in a while.

 

and i got a food safe bucket. for mixing. gota get me a new bucket for taking water out. all i got is a 3 gal one.

[StevieT]

Get a 5 gallon bucket, I take out and put back about 4 gallons each WC.

 

This thread is a sticky in the beginners section, right up at the top.

[coralcor]

Get a 5 gallon bucket, I take out and put back about 4 gallons each WC.

 

This thread is a sticky in the beginners section, right up at the top.

i do a like 5.5 gal change. most of the time.

 

 

and wow i never notesed it LOL

[greech]

First I want to say how much help this site (and especially this thread) has been for me. I am very new to saltwater but I have quite a bit of Cichlid experience so I am not 100% lost (yet ). I purchased a 12-gallon AP that was up and running for about a year so it was cycled when I bought it (I moved everything that was in the tank and set it back up). Getting ready for my first saltwater WC and have everything this post mentions. I tested the existing water last night and my calcium seems a little low but everything else is looks ok. Before I start I wanted to ask just a few questions:

 

I purchased RO water from my LFS. Is this dechlorinated, etc,? Do I need to add anything else besides the IO Reef Salt I purchased? I plan to test the water again after the WC so if calcium is still low should I add a 2-part supplement like the LFS suggested?

 

How often should I clean the filters and pump. I know I tried to clean those items every other WC in my cichlid tank because I didn't want it too clean.

 

BTW the tips on cleaning the curved glass were awesome. That was driving me crazy! Thank you!!!

Edited February 17, 2009 by greech

[StevieT]

to N-R

 

Freshwater and saltwater are two completely different games, there really isn't much that is similar besides PH.

 

Depending on what corals you have, a water change will help with your calcium. Aim for 420-480 ppm. I have to dose every other day with a two part solution, but I have a lot of SPS corals that just eat up calcium

 

RO/DI water is pure, so yes it is dechlorinated. You will need nothing else. IO salt IMO is on the lower end of "quality" there are others that have more trace elements included in the salt. But many use IO with good results.

 

I would junk that huge sponge that is included with the AP12, also throw away the bio balls. Keep a clean filtration set up. Use filter floss instead of the sponge and replace it every 5-7 days depending on how fast it clogs up. You can use chemical medias in the rear chambers like chemi pure. Or set up one as a fuge and grow chaeto.

[greech]

to N-R

 

Freshwater and saltwater are two completely different games, there really isn't much that is similar besides PH.

 

Depending on what corals you have, a water change will help with your calcium. Aim for 420-480 ppm. I have to dose every other day with a two part solution, but I have a lot of SPS corals that just eat up calcium

 

RO/DI water is pure, so yes it is dechlorinated. You will need nothing else. IO salt IMO is on the lower end of "quality" there are others that have more trace elements included in the salt. But many use IO with good results.

 

I would junk that huge sponge that is included with the AP12, also throw away the bio balls. Keep a clean filtration set up. Use filter floss instead of the sponge and replace it every 5-7 days depending on how fast it clogs up. You can use chemical medias in the rear chambers like chemi pure. Or set up one as a fuge and grow chaeto.

 

Thank you! I don't have any hard corals but would like to eventually (one step at a time). I will go through the bag of IO I bought and get some higher end salts. A couple more questions if you don't mind:

 

I have read about topping of tanks a number of times and it sounds like you just use plain RO water (no salt) to do this. I have had little to no evapoaration over a week so I don't think this will be too much of a problem but it just didn't sound right to add staright RO water (guess is dilutes the salt since it doesn't evaporate?).

 

On the chemical medias, I assume these are similar to carbon in that you add them in a net/bag? Also, is ditching the sponge and the bioballs all at once ok (in addition to a WC). Seems like that would be quite a shock to the system? Maybe that is the freswater experince talking? I guess the live sand and live rock will keep it in balance pretty well? Thanks again.

[StevieT]

Add fresh RO water when you top off. Salt does not evaporate and is left behind. If your water level goes down then your salinity will go up, and on a small tank it happens fast. You may see more evaporation this summer or when you run your lights longer. The fans and strong lighting do not help the situation. I go through 4+ gallons a week in top off. Done automatically by my ATO

 

The safer thing would be to remove the sponge first. Then tank a handful of bioballs out every week. That would prevent any shock to your system. OVerall your live rock is taking care of your biofiltration, sand is mostly aesthetic.

 

Chemical medias are nice, I like chemi pure, it is of higher quality than normal carbon. Comes in a bag and lasts 3-5 months. A fuge would be a good idea. Just provide a small amount of light and throw some chaeto (macro algae) in a chamer.

Edited February 17, 2009 by StevieT

[greech]

Add fresh RO water when you top off. Salt does not evaporate and is left behind. If your water level goes down then your salinity will go up, and on a small tank it happens fast. You may see more evaporation this summer or when you run your lights longer. The fans and strong lighting do not help the situation. I go through 4+ gallons a week in top off. Done automatically by my ATO

 

The safer thing would be to remove the sponge first. Then tank a handful of bioballs out every week. That would prevent any shock to your system. OVerall your live rock is taking care of your biofiltration, sand is mostly aesthetic.

 

Chemical medias are nice, I like chemi pure, it is of higher quality than normal carbon. Comes in a bag and lasts 3-5 months. A fuge would be a good idea. Just provide a small amount of light and throw some chaeto (macro algae) in a chamer.

 

Outstanding, thank you so much! I am really excited about this and its good to know there are folks out there that can help a Noob like me. Keep up the good work!

[NanoReefNovice]

Awesome guide SteveT!

 

Would like to add... to start a siphon submerge the wide vacuum attachment in your tank, then raise it up out of the water letting the water fill up the hose going into bucket. Just before all of the water drains from the vacuum end submerge it again in your tank again. If done right it is a quick and easy way to prime a siphon. I used to prime it with sink water but that got old quick and I don't prefer to suck on anything.

Edited March 1, 2009 by NanoReefNovice