Jump to content
SaltCritters.com

TJ_Burton Returns - last pics...


TJ_Burton

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 582
  • Created
  • Last Reply

I spoke with the owner of 3iq (makes of SCWD) on Friday becuase I'm having trouble with my SCWD. He told me they will soon be releasing a new model. Apparently it will have 1" male threaded ends, the ability to open the top for cleaning and a better housing! Maybe you can wait...

Link to comment
I spoke with the owner of 3iq (makes of SCWD) on Friday becuase I'm having trouble with my SCWD. He told me they will soon be releasing a new model. Apparently it will have 1" male threaded ends, the ability to open the top for cleaning and a better housing! Maybe you can wait...

 

This is great information! I am guessing he did not give an ETA on the newer model?

Link to comment

He said it would be released in Feb. He's sending me a replacement SCWD for the malfunctioning one I have. I asked if he would just wait till the new ones came out and send me one of those instead... no dice. He did say he has one running on his tank right now.

 

Ben

Link to comment

I have heard some people have had problems with the SWCD's, but mine has worked flawlessly for more than 6 months. I suppose if they made them so that you could take them apart and clean them, that would be a definite design improvement. I'm psyched to hear that they are improving the design. Most wavemaking machines cost alot of money and don't do the job half as well as the SWCD, IMO. The ability to get into the guts to fix/clean it makes it even more appealing.

 

Sorry to hear yours jammed up bdare, but at least they are taking care of you. I hope mine doesn't die on me now, as the karmic result of having told the world I think its a great product, LOL.

 

- Josh

Link to comment
He said it would be released in Feb. He's sending me a replacement SCWD for the malfunctioning one I have. I asked if he would just wait till the new ones came out and send me one of those instead... no dice. He did say he has one running on his tank right now.

 

Ben

 

This is great news! I honestly don't know how long it is going to take for my system to be put together, and I have a trip to cuba coming up on the 18th of Feb, so waiting until then may be the best bet! (I hate waiting but you gotta do whatchya gotta do).

 

I have heard some people have had problems with the SWCD's, but mine has worked flawlessly for more than 6 months. I suppose if they made them so that you could take them apart and clean them, that would be a definite design improvement. I'm psyched to hear that they are improving the design. Most wavemaking machines cost alot of money and don't do the job half as well as the SWCD, IMO. The ability to get into the guts to fix/clean it makes it even more appealing.

 

Sorry to hear yours jammed up bdare, but at least they are taking care of you. I hope mine doesn't die on me now, as the karmic result of having told the world I think its a great product, LOL.

 

- Josh

 

Fingers crossed for you Josh! Hope that device keeps on working for you for at least another 6 months! lol. (My first one lasted 9months then died).

Link to comment

Lots of good information here. Thanks. Really looking seeing this 40 set up. I'm planning on doing a similar project over the summer.

Link to comment
Lots of good information here. Thanks. Really looking seeing this 40 set up. I'm planning on doing a similar project over the summer.

 

Glad to help! If you ever have any questions feel free to ask!

 

Ok,

 

Now I am thinking about this gate valve at the bottom of the return going into the sump. There will be the extra weight of the water in the pipe putting strain on the glass around the bulkhead, and then a bulky gate valve as well. Is there a good way to help deal with the extra weight? Should it be hard or soft plumbed? I generally like soft plumbing better, and I guess that way the gate valve could sit in the sump, supporting itself negating that extra weight from the equation. But I have never used a valve at the bottom of the drain line before, so any advice would be great. I am probably going to use a Stockman style standpipe to conserve space. But I know that can be adjusted to make sure I get the right hight of 'fall' over the box.

 

Any thoughts?

Link to comment
Glad to help! If you ever have any questions feel free to ask!

 

Ok,

 

Now I am thinking about this gate valve at the bottom of the return going into the sump. There will be the extra weight of the water in the pipe putting strain on the glass around the bulkhead, and then a bulky gate valve as well. Is there a good way to help deal with the extra weight? Should it be hard or soft plumbed? I generally like soft plumbing better, and I guess that way the gate valve could sit in the sump, supporting itself negating that extra weight from the equation. But I have never used a valve at the bottom of the drain line before, so any advice would be great. I am probably going to use a Stockman style standpipe to conserve space. But I know that can be adjusted to make sure I get the right hight of 'fall' over the box.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Well, if you are only travelling from the underside of the tank to the sump just below it, there shouldn't that much length of plumbing filled with water. I would say just try to keep the drain line a short as possible and bracket it to the inside wall of the stand or something to help support the weight. You could also have the very end of the drain line rest against the bottom of the sump with a 90 degree elbow or something like that, thus making the floor of the sump support some of the weight. Just try to keep the angles in mind, so to speak, so you have some idea of the directions in which the weight of the drain line will torque the bulkhead, and you can compensate. Glass is really very strong stuff, so I think you should be fine as long as you are midful of the forces involved.

 

The valve need not absolutely be below the water level of the sump, but you don't want there to be a lot of vertical height between valve and sump, or the water in that last bit of pipe will be under significant negative pressure. Well oxygenated water + negative pressure = microbubbles. If you want to see that phenomenon in action, put 5ml of water in a 20ml syring with no air inside. Plug the end of the syringe and pull on the plunger. The water inside will at first form bubbles, and then boil at room temperature as you decrease pressure. Obviously, the vacuum inside your plumbing could never be that strong, but it could possibly cause some microbubbles to form. I have seen it happen in long vertical runs of plumbing with valves placed up high. The water enters the tube clear, comes out all bubbly. Just keep it to a foot or less of height difference, and I don't think you would have any offgassing occurring in the plumbing.

Link to comment
Well, if you are only travelling from the underside of the tank to the sump just below it, there shouldn't that much length of plumbing filled with water. I would say just try to keep the drain line a short as possible and bracket it to the inside wall of the stand or something to help support the weight. You could also have the very end of the drain line rest against the bottom of the sump with a 90 degree elbow or something like that, thus making the floor of the sump support some of the weight. Just try to keep the angles in mind, so to speak, so you have some idea of the directions in which the weight of the drain line will torque the bulkhead, and you can compensate. Glass is really very strong stuff, so I think you should be fine as long as you are midful of the forces involved.

 

The valve need not absolutely be below the water level of the sump, but you don't want there to be a lot of vertical height between valve and sump, or the water in that last bit of pipe will be under significant negative pressure. Well oxygenated water + negative pressure = microbubbles. If you want to see that phenomenon in action, put 5ml of water in a 20ml syring with no air inside. Plug the end of the syringe and pull on the plunger. The water inside will at first form bubbles, and then boil at room temperature as you decrease pressure. Obviously, the vacuum inside your plumbing could never be that strong, but it could possibly cause some microbubbles to form. I have seen it happen in long vertical runs of plumbing with valves placed up high. The water enters the tube clear, comes out all bubbly. Just keep it to a foot or less of height difference, and I don't think you would have any offgassing occurring in the plumbing.

 

Right on, I get what your saying.

Well, I think I am going to have to wait until I have the system in place before I can start playing around with this idea. I will think of ways to support the extra weight in the meanwhile.

 

In other news,

My rose anemone decided to split this week (shortly after changing over to the 20L). I am not sure if this was a act of distress and survival or if the flush of new clean water and flow promoted it. Either way, I now have 2 of them and will be selling one once they both finish the devision and get their mouths back.

Link to comment
Great set up and a nice tank Burton. Your Anemone split is allways a positive.

 

Thanks for the kind words :)

And I am glad to hear that my anemone is just happy enough to frag itself!

 

Ok Josh,

 

So I was thinking about possibly bracketing the pipe like this (picture attached). What the picture shows is a cross section of the stand, with with pipe coming down then slightly out the back of the stand. It is being bracketed to the top of the back of the stand (I can extend a piece of 2X4 down so it has more of a drop before the 90. It then has another 90 that leads to the Gate valve which is mounted externally to the sump. I am not sure how effective or practical this would be, or if it will cause too much restriction. Just figured I would post up the thought.

 

Josh, I am looking to you for guidance! lol...

 

*edit*

Also just noticed the Blue Anthelia growing back quite nicely! I will snap some shots of it when I get a new camera.

post-7376-1200360205_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Thanks for the kind words :)

And I am glad to hear that my anemone is just happy enough to frag itself!

 

Ok Josh,

 

So I was thinking about possibly bracketing the pipe like this (picture attached). What the picture shows is a cross section of the stand, with with pipe coming down then slightly out the back of the stand. It is being bracketed to the top of the back of the stand (I can extend a piece of 2X4 down so it has more of a drop before the 90. It then has another 90 that leads to the Gate valve which is mounted externally to the sump. I am not sure how effective or practical this would be, or if it will cause too much restriction. Just figured I would post up the thought.

 

Josh, I am looking to you for guidance! lol...

 

*edit*

Also just noticed the Blue Anthelia growing back quite nicely! I will snap some shots of it when I get a new camera.

 

That looks to me like a good way to plumb it. It also places the valve on the outside so you can easily get to it, which is nice. Just make sure its somwhere where nobody will accidentally kick it or bump it or whatever.

 

It won't cause too much restriction so long as the pipe you use is wide enough. plus you are going to have alot of water pushing on it from above, so that'll help keep it moving through the pipes. Do make sure you put unions on either side of the gate valve so you can easily take it off to clean it after a year or two of running, or if something should get into it and clog it. (an unlucky snail). I'm sure you are also aware of what little encrusting creatures can do to plumbing over time. If you are going to use PVC, make sure you can take it all apart to clean, or if you have to move the tank. Think about how each piece of pipe will come out if you ever have to remove it, so you don't end up having to saw your plumbing up when you have to move the tank, or if it gets clogged somewhere.

 

tl; dr version: Yep, that will work well, use lots of union fittings.

Link to comment
That looks to me like a good way to plumb it. It also places the valve on the outside so you can easily get to it, which is nice. Just make sure its somwhere where nobody will accidentally kick it or bump it or whatever.

 

It won't cause too much restriction so long as the pipe you use is wide enough. plus you are going to have alot of water pushing on it from above, so that'll help keep it moving through the pipes. Do make sure you put unions on either side of the gate valve so you can easily take it off to clean it after a year or two of running, or if something should get into it and clog it. (an unlucky snail). I'm sure you are also aware of what little encrusting creatures can do to plumbing over time. If you are going to use PVC, make sure you can take it all apart to clean, or if you have to move the tank. Think about how each piece of pipe will come out if you ever have to remove it, so you don't end up having to saw your plumbing up when you have to move the tank, or if it gets clogged somewhere.

 

tl; dr version: Yep, that will work well, use lots of union fittings.

 

I hear you, it all comes down to access and practicality! The only part of this system I plan on being hard plumbed is the drain, and I don't like using slip fittings and glue; I prefer threaded. So I will put at least 2 unions at the gate valve to make it easier, and one at the base of the drain. The rest of the system (returns etc) will be threaded barbed fittings, non-kink tubing, and clamps.

 

Thanks a ton for the suggestion! I think I will be very happy with this plumbing set up. :)

Link to comment

omgomgomg

 

i was just talking to my local lfs about setting up a cheape vrsion of ur tank(im 14) how much flow should u have in a tank like this?

 

do u think that this is a good light to start it up with. Sundial (314 watt)

 

plan looks awsome so far!!! :ninja:

Link to comment
omgomgomg

 

i was just talking to my local lfs about setting up a cheape vrsion of ur tank(im 14) how much flow should u have in a tank like this?

 

do u think that this is a good light to start it up with. Sundial (314 watt)

 

plan looks awsome so far!!! :ninja:

 

I'd love to answer you but I need a bit more information. Do you plan on having a 40b? If not what tank dimensions would you be looking into getting. Also, what type of stand/canopy will you use (if any).

 

Because, for instance, you would be good with a retrofit instead of a pendant if your going to have a custom canopy done for the tank. If that isn't the case, then the pendant you showed me would be good for a tank that is 30" wide or less. Even on my 20L (30" tank) I have 2 separate pendants.

 

For flow like 40 to 50 times turnover. Keep in mind though that I want mostly sps which require this kind of circulation. Some corals do not do as well with this type of water flow.

 

Well I sort of answered, but I would be more then happy to get more in depth when you give me more info.

Link to comment

Looks like I have some reading to do. At first glance, it looks like your plans look like they may have changed. Your illustrations are quite helpful for us not-so-handyman reefers. Since I'm a visual guy, this thread will be bookmarked as my manual for future builds. Thanks for the effort you've put into it.

Link to comment
Looks like I have some reading to do. At first glance, it looks like your plans look like they may have changed. Your illustrations are quite helpful for us not-so-handyman reefers. Since I'm a visual guy, this thread will be bookmarked as my manual for future builds. Thanks for the effort you've put into it.

 

Which plans are you refering to that "changed"? I could probably help explain my decisions if you are confused at all. I am actually not sure which plans you are refering to. And no sweat with the illustrations, to be honest I am a visual guy too - and I need to see my plans laid out before I can fully grasp what I am thinking (as odd as that just sounded).

 

I am very honored to hear that some of you are finding this thread such a big help. :)

Link to comment

Just checked my Params in the 20L, they are a touch off...

 

PH - 8.0-8.1

Alk - 200ppm

Calc - 350-400 (Probably closer to 375)

Nitrate - Just reading under 10

Nitrite - not registering on chart

Ammo - not registering on chart

 

I would like my calcium and ph higher, so I have to figure that out tomorrow. Hopefully it doesn't take too much to correct. I have to bring the PH up a touch, and I have a good buffer for it - it is just complex and easy to mess up.

Link to comment
Just checked my Params in the 20L, they are a touch off...

 

PH - 8.0-8.1

Alk - 200ppm

Calc - 350-400 (Probably closer to 375)

Nitrate - Just reading under 10

Nitrite - not registering on chart

Ammo - not registering on chart

 

I would like my calcium and ph higher, so I have to figure that out tomorrow. Hopefully it doesn't take too much to correct. I have to bring the PH up a touch, and I have a good buffer for it - it is just complex and easy to mess up.

 

Meh. Thats not awful. What buffer are you referring to?

Link to comment
Meh. Thats not awful. What buffer are you referring to?

 

 

I am actually at work right now, and I don't have it in front of me, but I will get the name of it when I get home.

 

More good news,

Both the small piece of purple M.Digitata and purple M.Capricornis are finally beginning to gain their color back! I find this quite nice since both of them were once at the point where I thought they were dead and nearly tossed them out. The M.Digitata went completely bleached at one point, and I could just barely make out the clear polyps on top of the white skeleton. I threw it in the shade for a while until it turned brown again, then gradually moved it back under the halides. Now it is dark brown, but I can see the tips of it starting to turn purple. The Cap just always looked like a crappy brown since I got the piece from a buddy who found it under his rockwork when he was doing major tank revamping. It had almost no polyp extension for 2 months, and just recently it has put on a layer of growth, and the polyps have turned purple.

 

My Montipora palawanensis went through a slight pigment adjustment when it got moved into the 20L. It began to bleach out for the first 5 days or so, but now seems to be turning a new shade of green, and the polyps are starting to get their blue hue back.

 

I find it fascinating how corals regulate their colors/pigments/zooanthellae depending on their light source. I think its amazing that a coral can bleach out, and come back as some variant of its original color to cope with a new source of light. I didn't worry too much when I noticed the Montipora palawanensis because I knew it would just pop back as a different varient of it's previous color. When I first started out, I would have been quite worried when this started, but by now I have realized corals are a little bit hardier then we give them credit for. Corals want to live! We sometimes act like corals are trying to commit suicide in our systems, and that we have to force them to stay alive with supreme conditions. I now understand that corals are struggling to live, and if we do our research, and set up a system that tailors to their needs, our corals will be just fine, even through the little bumps and bruises along the way.

 

Anyways, back to work for me :)

Link to comment
The M.Digitata went completely bleached at one point, and I could just barely make out the clear polyps on top of the white skeleton. I threw it in the shade for a while until it turned brown again, then gradually moved it back under the halides. Now it is dark brown, but I can see the tips of it starting to turn purple.

 

I had an almost identical experience with my pink digi. It bleached to bone white, looked like it was dead or about to die, then SLOWLY turned brown, then back to pink. Corals do indeed have amazing regenerative capacity.

 

- Josh

Link to comment
I had an almost identical experience with my pink digi. It bleached to bone white, looked like it was dead or about to die, then SLOWLY turned brown, then back to pink. Corals do indeed have amazing regenerative capacity.

 

- Josh

 

Do you know what lighting the coral was originally under?

I know both the digi and cap were under 4x54w T-5 lighting in my friends tank. He said everyone else who got his frags ended up turning them brown, and nobody had been able to get the purple back. I think I am about to break that chain. The move from T-5 to MH was a big change for the coral, and it needed to adjust.

Link to comment
Do you know what lighting the coral was originally under?

I know both the digi and cap were under 4x54w T-5 lighting in my friends tank. He said everyone else who got his frags ended up turning them brown, and nobody had been able to get the purple back. I think I am about to break that chain. The move from T-5 to MH was a big change for the coral, and it needed to adjust.

 

Ok, here is the tale of my pink digi:

 

I got it at a store (not online). It was under 250W 20k lights, in a deep tank all the way at the bottom in the store. I think it was a 90 gallon tank, i'm not sure.

 

At the time, my system only had one 150w 20k Coralife bulb for lighting, set dead center over my tank. So, I put the pink digi in the tank, low and to the left, and it was fine. A month or so later, I added a second MH pendant, identical to the first, and changed both bulbs to 10k bulbs. Each pendant was centered over a point 1/3 of the tank length from either end, if you know what I mean. Needless to say, this was a dramatic increase in PAR for the whole tank, and that was my intention. I wanted monster SPS growth. Now, these lights are pendants, and thus adjustable in height, so I had raised them as high as I could over the tank to help acclimate things. All my corals took well to the change except my digi. Within two days, it had bleached bone white and all the branch tips had died. When I noticed this (yes, I should have been more cautious and observant, but I haven't ever kept a tank this shallow before) I immediately crammed the coral all the way into a corner, in the dimmest spot in the tank. There the coral remained for a couple of months, pretty much ignored. A couple of times I even contemplated foisting it upon the LFS for their frag tank. I thought it was a lost cause.

 

In these pictures, taken maybe a month or two after burning the coral, (one was intended to be a pic of the crab, not the coral) you can see the branches of the coral are pretty close to bone white. By this point the coral had only just begun to regain the slightest hint of a tan color. You can also see the dead tips in one of them.

 

IMG_0476.jpg

 

IMG_0517.jpg

 

Over the subsequent weeks, it slowly went from white to light tan to dirt brown to pinkish brown to bright pink to pink with purplish highlights. Here is a fairly recent photo that shows what it looks like now:

 

EDITED_IMG_0845.jpg

 

So basically, this coral has been through some serious lighting changes, analogous to what yours has been through. It never ceases to amaze me that some corals can come back to full health from the brink of death like that.

 

I really feel that keeping bright colors in most SPS is simply a matter of gently introducing the coral to as much light as you can throw at it, but not all at once. I once saw a colony of millepora growing less than 2 feet directly under a 1000w 6500k bulb. Ever since that day, I have been convinced that you just can't even come close to reprocing in captivity the amount of light that a shallow reef gets in the wild. For some species of corals (shallow water SPS) you just can't overilluminate them, IMO, provided you acclimate them carefully.

 

It should be noted that my pink digi is now about a foot directly under a halide, smack in the hot spot, and it looks happy as can be.

 

- Josh

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recommended Discussions


×
×
  • Create New...