Luk3s 12g AP *new stuff w/pics*

[khaynes3]

SO just take out bioballs and ceramic rings and put in filter floss in one of the chambers? Will that truly substitute the ceramic rings and bioballs? and why is filter floss so much better?

 

The filter floss won't replace the bioballs and ceramics. Those are made to be a breeding place for the bacteria that turn ammonia and nitrites to nitrates. They are used in fish only systems instead of live rock, but since you are using live rock, these beneficial bacteria are breeding on the rocks. Therefore, the ceramics and bioballs are only collecting crap and adding to the bioload.

 

The filter floss is used in the first chamber to catch the crap coming into the filter area, to be removed (by you) from the tank. You can also use the sponge that came with the tank. Most people say cut it in half and use one half, then clean it after a week, and use the other half during the next week. I think it's much easier to just use filter floss and be able to just toss it and get a completely new one each week. But it's up to you. You can try searching and seeing what works for other people. Just type filter floss into the search bar, and you should find some good articles.

[clifford513]

I dont know maybe its just me being stupid but it just seems that that stuff is in there for a reason and taking it out just seems like a waste of space. The sponge and balls and rings all seem to have a purpose but again that could just be me being an idiot and over thinking

 

My God Man! Read what others with your tank have done. Look at the pretty pictures. Then make a decision.

[Luk3]

The filter floss won't replace the bioballs and ceramics. Those are made to be a breeding place for the bacteria that turn ammonia and nitrites to nitrates. They are used in fish only systems instead of live rock, but since you are using live rock, these beneficial bacteria are breeding on the rocks. Therefore, the ceramics and bioballs are only collecting crap and adding to the bioload.The filter floss is used in the first chamber to catch the crap coming into the filter area, to be removed (by you) from the tank. You can also use the sponge that came with the tank. Most people say cut it in half and use one half, then clean it after a week, and use the other half during the next week. I think it's much easier to just use filter floss and be able to just toss it and get a completely new one each week. But it's up to you. You can try searching and seeing what works for other people. Just type filter floss into the search bar, and you should find some good articles.

Thanks alot that puts things into perspective for me

My God Man! Read what others with your tank have done. Look at the pretty pictures. Then make a decision.

lol i know i know ive read and read but there are so many different people doing so many different things im just skeptical about making a bad decision i guess

[khaynes3]

Thanks alot that puts things into perspective for me

 

No problem. Here is a link to what H2O has done as far as a shelf to hold the filter floss, there are many other options, but this was just one of his solutions.

*Note- I believe H20 got this idea from someone else, and I believe he referenced this other person his his thread.

 

Here is a link to his thread. H20's Aquarium

[swoll54]

bio balls we are finding out really build up nitrates. thats why for fish systems or other system stay away from a trickle system. thats also why in refugiom it is better to use live rock then use bio balls. live rock eats up nitrate for the simple fact anaerobic bacteria is stored in the center of the rock wich only eats nitrates. which can also be found in deep sand beds. but how every it can be very dangerous in a sand bed. bio balls never build up anaerobic bacteria on then just arobic bacteria wich eats up nitrit and amm.. i love using ###### louds of live rock for in tank filtration and that it. and use a sump just for my skimmer. i love using the berlin method. i was told it was not good for really small nano tanks though because there just is not enough surface area.

[clifford513]

i know i know ive read and read but there are so many different people doing so many different things im just skeptical about making a bad decision i guess

I understand that. Everyone is trying to tell you why you have high nitrates. Not enough live rock and trapped detritus.

[khaynes3]

I did another search for some more good reading for you...

 

Mods for your Aquapod

[swoll54]

water flow and healthy live work is just as improtant from what i was told and read. what do you think about water flow. i was told to take the tank size and times it by 15 and that is how much water flow you would want. not sure if that is 100 percent true though. but it does seem to work for me.

[Luk3]

Well again thank you all for your help.

I went to my LFS store today and picked up 5 more pounds of live rock. 2.5 pounds went into my tank and the other half i broke up for LR rubble and i ditched the bioballs and ceramic rings.

So my setup looks like this.

Chamber 1: Stock sponge with bottom vents blocked off

Chamber 2: LR rubble and bag of carbon

Chamber 3: LR rubble and 100 watt heater set to 79 degrees

Chamber 4: Stock pump

I hope this fixes my zoanthids i still dont know why they wont open anymore, anyone got any ideas?

[shevel]

i heard you arent supposed to run LR and carbon in the same chambers? i did and this guy told me it wouldnt work the way its supposed to.. anyone know anything about this? is it ok to run carbon ALL the time in a tank?

 

dont mean to high jack your thread, sorry

[Luk3]

no problem i was wondering the same thing actually anyone know anything about this?

[paOol]

how are your nitrates doing now?

i have a similar issue with my nitrates , but i think its because i dont have enough live rock.

i got about 20-30lbs curing right now, so about another week to go >_>.

[shevel]

anyone know about the LR with carbon issue?

[Luk3]

bumpity bump

[spanko]

Just started reading here and have not read the entire thread but a couple of observations from the last few posts.

You should have removed the bioballs over the course of a week or so a few at a time. They are part of your biofiltration and you have effectively reduced that a lot buy removing them all at once. Too late now but you will move on.

The live rock addition, depending on the condition of the cure of the rock, may have some die-off that may increase your ammonia.

Moving forward I would be doing some daily testing for ammonia and nitrates at this point and when seeing a rise have premixed change water available to dilute the problems. In other words if you see an increase in ammonia - do a water change. As you already have some livestock in there you don't want any ammonia.

 

You can get through this but I think you really need to be watching now after the removal all at once of the bioballs-ceramics and the addition of more live rock.

 

Jum my $0.02 hope everything goes well.

[Luk3]

thanks alot spanko

 

Any comments about the carbon and LR?

[spanko]

thanks alot spanko

 

Any comments about the carbon and LR?

 

Not really as I have not heard any problems with running them both. A lot of people have live rock, and a lot of people run carbon. Don't know where this came from. This is really all I can see.

 

Tips on using activated carbon:

 

1. MAKE SURE IT IS ACTIVATED CARBON. Many types of carbon are sold in pet stores. For a reef aquarium you need carbon that has been activated--a process that substantially increases the porosity of the carbon, and as a result greatly increases the total active surface area, allowing it to be much more effective at absorbing compounds that need to be removed from the tank's water.

 

2. TEST FOR PHOSPHATES. Some carbons may leach phosphate into the water, contributing to the load of nutrients that one must keep under control. Careful testing of the product you plan to use is the only way to determine if this is going to be a problem. To test, a sample of the product is placed in seawater overnight, and the water is then tested for phosphate. Any detectable amount, using a phosphate test kit with a lower detection limit of 0.05 ppm, is too much.

 

Useful products for detecting and removing phosphate:

Red Sea Phosphate Mini Lab (phosphate test kit)

Seachem PhosGuard (phosphate remover)

Kent Marine PHOSPHATE SPONGE

 

3. FLOW WATER THROUGH, NOT OVER. Your activated carbon will work much better if water is actually forced to go through the amount used, rather than just flowed by, and over it. More contact between the activated carbon and the water obviously results in a more efficient cleansing process.

 

4. REPLACE YOUR CARBON. Activated carbon has a maximum adsorption capacity, which is the reason that it should be replaced from time to time. How frequently is hard to determine, because it is dependent on the quality of the water that is flowed through the carbon.

 

5. IN REEF TANKS, PUT THE CARBON BEHIND THE LIVE ROCK OR IN THE SUMP.

[shevel]

great info spanko!! i run my carbon in a AC30. its full of carbon and then a sponge on top to collet debris. every week i dump the water out, clean the spong and put it back on. never changed the carbon before and its old. maybe i should change it also the owner at my LFS said there was no need to buy new carbon, just take the stuff that you used and bake it in the oven at 350 for a few minutes. he says this cracks the carbon and kinda 'refreshes' it. not sure if thats really true but i know hes very knowledgable. hes been breeding FW fish since the 50's and has much experience with SW so some of the things he says i trust but now im sketchy on this one lol

[spanko]

Here is some more on carbon.

http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/filtration/a/aa061098.htm

 

Also I found this from here: http://fins.actwin.com/mirror/filters.html

GAC cannot be rejuvenated outside a laboratory, but fortunately, it is cheap enough to use liberally. Always wash your carbon before use to remove the dust that accumulates during shipment. Advice on how much to use vary, but smaller amounts changed more frequently seem to work best. You probably want to experiment, but 1/2 cup per 20 gallons water, changed monthly is a good starting point. In summary, activated carbon is an excellent, cheap and effective filtration method which is highly recommended for all aquaria.

[Luk3]

Well as of right now not much has changed. Nitrites are still at 0 ammonia is at 0 but my nitrates are still up there. I just did a waterchange so im going to let the water settle before i test.

My snails arent as active as they used to be be (turbo snails) since i reduced the light cycle i havent gotten anymore algae or diatom blooms which is probably why my snails arent all over they place. I just hope they dont die. My 2 blue leg hermits are fine scuttling around the tank together. My zoas still wont OPEN!!!! and i dont know what to do. Oh and one night my GSP fell off of the rock i had it on before ( pic on page 6) so i sorta layed it on another rock and it attached after a couple days which sorta tells me things in my tank are growing and not withering away. Ive counted 15 feather dusters in all and they are growing nicely also i have some random green plants growing out of my rocks (pics coming soon) And those bugs i mentioned earlier are now everywhere.

So thats about it for my update again any comments are helpful

[spanko]

With the exception of the zoas it sounds to me like you are doing fine. Could the zoas have a flow - lighting - becterial - parasite problem keeping them from opening? Maybe some pictures will show others something that will job the memory and be able to help you with them.

[Luk3]

With the exception of the zoas it sounds to me like you are doing fine. Could the zoas have a flow - lighting - becterial - parasite problem keeping them from opening? Maybe some pictures will show others something that will job the memory and be able to help you with them.

Thanks for the positive comment.

Im just not sure about the zoas i havent changed anything which is why they are confusing me.

I will get pics tomorrow.

Im thinking about adding a scooter blenny I know i know there dragonets and need pods to eat and so on. But i have an enormous supply of pods in my tank plus ive seen with my own eyes that the scooter blenny has taken mysis shrimp/ flaked food on multiple occasions.

[spanko]

http://www.reefs.org/library/talklog/s_tyree_110198.html

http://www.biogeosciences.net/3/489/2006/bg-3-489-2006.pdf

 

Whew, those made my head spin....................

[Luk3]

Well again my nitrates seemed MAYBE a little lower but thats it nowhere close to 0 so im still not sure what to do.

I have tons of those little bugs now and some other things im not sure of any ID would be helpful.

Bugs

My poor excuse of zoas

More zoas (not sure why they wont opened as they were happy before)

My little feather duster colony (at least they are doing good)

Bugs

[bluebastion]

The first 3 bug pictures are pods... most likely copepods. As for the latter, try to get them out of the tank ASAP. Not to alarm you, but they are planaria, AKA flat worms. The kind you have don't look extremely harmful, but left to multiply and they can become an eyesore. Also, if they multiply in hordes, then die off, they can nuke your tank with their toxins.BTW Both are common hitchhikers.