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sammy33

sammy33's 28G Nano Cube HQI Thread

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jdokos

Hi Sammy,

 

Please do let us know how that product works in your tank. I would like to try something to help cyano on my sand as well.

 

Thanks,

Jeff

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sammy33

I swapped lamps again today. I had originally used an XM 20K lamp when I first set up the tank. I then swapped this out for the stock JBJ 14K lamp and have now swapped that lamp out for a Radium 20K.

 

I love the Radium 20K! :bowdown:

 

This is very similar to the coloration and spectrum I got from the Ushio 20K on my last tank. This is the first time since using the Ushio lamp that my Orange Ricordea actually look orange. The fluorescing (glowing) factor is pretty extreme with this lamp. Everything just looks...better. :happy:

 

Initial PAR tests on the Radium 20K are very high but this is pretty normal with a new lamp. I am getting well over 1000 PAR at the top of the tank. The Radium 20K appears visually brighter than the JBJ 14K. Will be curious to see how it looks in a couple of weeks when the lamp "burns in". I will get some pics when I remember to bring in my camera.

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peaglesrx
I swapped lamps again today. I had originally used an XM 20K lamp when I first set up the tank. I then swapped this out for the stock JBJ 14K lamp and have now swapped that lamp out for a Radium 20K.

 

I love the Radium 20K! :bowdown:

 

This is very similar to the coloration and spectrum I got from the Ushio 20K on my last tank. This is the first time since using the Ushio lamp that my Orange Ricordea actually look orange. The fluorescing (glowing) factor is pretty extreme with this lamp. Everything just looks...better. :happy:

 

Initial PAR tests on the Radium 20K are very high but this is pretty normal with a new lamp. I am getting well over 1000 PAR at the top of the tank. The Radium 20K appears visually brighter than the JBJ 14K. Will be curious to see how it looks in a couple of weeks when the lamp "burns in". I will get some pics when I remember to bring in my camera.

 

Hey sammy,

 

I've also been using the radium 20k bulbs. I have to say that they are really good, bright bulbs!! I can't tell if they're much brighter or better than my old xm 20k as I ran them in my sunpod in my old tank. So, when I switched to the 28g, I wasn't sure if the increased brightness in the 28g was d/t the radium bulb or d/t JBJ's enclosed reflector or simply the fact that it's closer to the water. To be honest, it's probably a combination of all three. Either way, my light setup on the 28g blows away my old, 24g with an open top and a sunpod over it.

 

1000 par at the top!! Whooohoo. Go JBJ and radium bulbs!!!! Have you taken extra PAR readings at the bottom?

 

Thanks and keep up the good work!

Phu

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Owen28GT

Hows the Prodibio working out for you?

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sammy33

Prodibio seems to be working in terms of reducing overall nutrient levels (phosphate, nitrate and dissolved organics). I had already noticed some lightening of the leather corals when they were in my tank at home (also using Prodibio). This lightening is most likely a result of reduction in zooxanthellae (symbiotic brown algae) populations in the corals. These corals were darker with more of a brown appearance before using Prodibio. This lightening is also showing better color pigments on the corals.

 

My skimmer also seems to be producing a darker skim. This indicates an overall reduction in nutrient levels. I have added a second fish finally. I have had a Rainford Goby for almost two weeks now. Will post pics soon.

 

I did get another toy in the meantime. B) I finally savd up for a Phosphate photometer. I got the Martini instuments unit and have been testing Phosphate with much better results. I had some issues in the my previous nano with phosphate and always had a tough time with testing for PO4. I got the Martini Photometer so I could actually test phosphate with a reasonable accuracy.

 

Most all of the liquid phosphate test kits on the market are designed to test above the maximum 0.03ppm limit for phosphate. I used to always test zero well at least below 0.03ppm but still had some nuisance algae growth. The photometer allows me to test down to the 0.001 accuracy level. :D My phosphate in level in my 28gNC is 0.01ppm since I started using Prodibio. Note that this is what my RO/DI water tests at. My tap water is 0.15ppm which is extremely high! :o

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sammy33

Full tank shot for May 2008 :)

 

fts-5-08-nano.jpg

 

Compare this to the previous full tank shot and notice the more intense oranges and reds. The colors are really starting to shine through now that I have the nutrient levels under control. The cyano bacteria is also completely gone. I have to credit Prodibio for this.

 

I took the kalk reactor off the tank as the top-off was overdriving my pH. This was resulting in my ATO shutting down during the day-time and causing the water level to drop very low in the filter area in the back. The pH was always pegged at 8.4. I am now back to dosing B-ionic manually for CA and Alk maintenance. My pH has dropped to 8.2 which is still good for me.

 

The next problem I have to tackle is the bubble algae (Valonia). I got a Emerald crab (mithrax) in hopes that he may munch a few. I have tried to remove some by hand but this stuff is tenacious. Any ideas on battling bubble algae? :huh:

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sammy33

The nano has been weathering the summer heat quite well. Temps hover around 80-81F peaking during the mid day. The office is cooled during the weekends so it seems to be doing well. The leathers are growing like crazy so I need to update with a full tank shot but here are some goodies I picked up this week. :)

 

pink-paly-7-08.jpg

Pink Paly

 

mint-chocolate-eagle-7-08.jpg

Mint Chocolate Chip Zoa and Eagle Eye Zoa

 

zoa-garden-7-08.jpg

The colony on the right probably needs to be dipped again in the Tropic Marin Coral Cure. It has been closed up for a few weeks. :huh:

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MarvinsReef

great thread going.. :)

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MarvinsReef
I swapped lamps again today. I had originally used an XM 20K lamp when I first set up the tank. I then swapped this out for the stock JBJ 14K lamp and have now swapped that lamp out for a Radium 20K.

 

I love the Radium 20K! :bowdown:

 

This is very similar to the coloration and spectrum I got from the Ushio 20K on my last tank. This is the first time since using the Ushio lamp that my Orange Ricordea actually look orange. The fluorescing (glowing) factor is pretty extreme with this lamp. Everything just looks...better. :happy:

 

Initial PAR tests on the Radium 20K are very high but this is pretty normal with a new lamp. I am getting well over 1000 PAR at the top of the tank. The Radium 20K appears visually brighter than the JBJ 14K. Will be curious to see how it looks in a couple of weeks when the lamp "burns in". I will get some pics when I remember to bring in my camera.

it's been 3 months since the upgrade.. you mind doing another PAR testing?

 

thanks again... :)

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sammy33
it's been 3 months since the upgrade.. you mind doing another PAR testing?

 

thanks again... :)

 

I will retest the PAR again in the near future. I will try to get some measurements first part of next week as well as some new pictures. :happy:

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MarvinsReef
I will retest the PAR again in the near future. I will try to get some measurements first part of next week as well as some new pictures. :happy:

excellent... :)

 

looking forward to the results....

 

Thanks again..

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sammy33

Here are the PAR numbers from today. This is using the stock 150w HQI ballast, the stock reflector and a Radium 20k lamp.

 

par-28g-rad20k.jpg

 

The numbers at the top of the reef are mostly between 300-400. The 1198 at the top of the tank was measured just below the surface of the water directly under the lamp. You can see the PAR drops off a bit on the sides and at the bottom. These numbers were measured with my Apogee Instruments Quantum Meter.

 

This range from the bottom to the top of the reef structure between 180 to 430 is great for these corals. I have pretty much all soft corals now and am very happy with the light levels. If I were keeping SPS I would want to see a range from about 250 to 600 PAR.

 

Side Note: I think I also got the color balanced a bit better in this shot than my previous full tank shot from 5-12-08. The 20K lamps are difficult to get good pictures under as the color renders very blue on most cameras. I used the evaluative white balance feature on my Canon A620 in the last round of photos showing all the closeups on the zoanthids and it looks very natural. The Olympus camera that I used today for the full tank shot is older and the white balance is limited. I think the results from the Canon are much better.

Edited by sammy33

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ballerina

Hi sammy,

I just got the 28G HQI Nano. Just set it up. For the filtration box you mentioned that you replaced the stock filtration with carbon and something else? Just wonder what you replaced with what and why. I am very new to this hobby and I am trying to learn as much as possible! Thanks!

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MarvinsReef
Here are the PAR numbers from today. This is using the stock 150w HQI ballast, the stock reflector and a Radium 20k lamp.

 

The numbers at the top of the reef are mostly between 300-400. The 1198 at the top of the tank was measured just below the surface of the water directly under the lamp. You can see the PAR drops off a bit on the sides and at the bottom. These numbers were measured with my Apogee Instruments Quantum Meter.

 

This range from the bottom to the top of the reef structure between 180 to 430 is great for these corals. I have pretty much all soft corals now and am very happy with the light levels. If I were keeping SPS I would want to see a range from about 250 to 600 PAR.

 

Side Note: I think I also got the color balanced a bit better in this shot than my previous full tank shot from 5-12-08. The 20K lamps are difficult to get good pictures under as the color renders very blue on most cameras. I used the evaluative white balance feature on my Canon A620 in the last round of photos showing all the closeups on the zoanthids and it looks very natural. The Olympus camera that I used today for the full tank shot is older and the white balance is limited. I think the results from the Canon are much better.

Thanks for the update sammy33... :)

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sammy33
Hi sammy,

I just got the 28G HQI Nano. Just set it up. For the filtration box you mentioned that you replaced the stock filtration with carbon and something else? Just wonder what you replaced with what and why. I am very new to this hobby and I am trying to learn as much as possible! Thanks!

 

I used Pura complete for a few months after I set up the tank. This is a blend of carbon, phosphate remover (GFO) and a reduction resin that helps reduce nitrates. This was a good choice initially as my phosphate tested a wee bit high at around 0.06 ppm. I also had some algae that started growing so this is why I was using the media (to reduce PO4 and NO3 .

 

I took the sponge and the ceramic rings out and still do not use them. I do have a filter bag on the output of my Remora skimmer to reduce micro bubbles. I also helps filter out bigger particles making the skimmer a bit more effective. The ceramic rings are meant to be a biological media but I have plenty of live sand and live rock to cover denitrification.

 

I started using Prodibio several months ago and it seems to take care of the nitrate and phosphate reduction in this tank (along with the weekly water changes) keeping the levels very managable. I have stopped using the Pura Complete and only use carbon in the filter basket. :happy:

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ballerina

what tester do you use?

Also for the Pura Complete, where do you put it? In the filter box?

Edited by ballerina

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sammy33

Testing stuff...:happy:

 

Temp and pH - ReefKeeper2

Salinity - Milwaukee Refractometer

PO4 Phosphate - Martini Photometer

NO3 Nitrate - Aquarium Pharm and Salifert

Ca Calcium - Instant Ocean and Salifert

ALK Alkalinity - Instant Ocean and Salifert

Mg Magnesium - Red Sea

 

Is that what you meant?

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ballerina
Testing stuff...:happy:

 

Temp and pH - ReefKeeper2

Salinity - Milwaukee Refractometer

PO4 Phosphate - Martini Photometer

NO3 Nitrate - Aquarium Pharm and Salifert

Ca Calcium - Instant Ocean and Salifert

ALK Alkalinity - Instant Ocean and Salifert

Mg Magnesium - Red Sea

 

Is that what you meant?

 

yes thank you! also where do u put the pura complete. In the filtration box? Which section of the filtration box...sounds to me like you replaced everything with pura complete?

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sammy33
yes thank you! also where do u put the pura complete. In the filtration box? Which section of the filtration box...sounds to me like you replaced everything with pura complete?

 

The Pura Complete media worked very well for this tank. I used a bit less than the directions recommend and put it in the middle section of the filter basket with upper and lower sections empty. I used just enough media to get a good pass through but not so much that it blocks off the flow through the basket. I do the same thing now but with just carbon and change it every 30 days.

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ballerina

Is the carbon small particles? I ask mainly because I dont want a huge mess. Also did you take out the sponges that were in the pump chambers

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sammy33
Is the carbon small particles? I ask mainly because I dont want a huge mess. Also did you take out the sponges that were in the pump chambers

 

The trick with filter media particles is to make sure the media bag mesh size is smaller than the particle. I also rinse the carbon until it runs clear before I use it.

 

I took out all the sponges in all the chambers as well as the sponge in the filter basket. :happy:

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hppd432

:) Awesome tank Sammy!

I have my 28g hqi running for about two weeks now. Love it and cycle just finished added a small clean up crew and have about 25lbs live rock.

What website are you getting the best quality for the $ on corals?

Thanks again for this thread it has definitely given me some ideas!

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sammy33
:) Awesome tank Sammy!

I have my 28g hqi running for about two weeks now. Love it and cycle just finished added a small clean up crew and have about 25lbs live rock.

What website are you getting the best quality for the $ on corals?

Thanks again for this thread it has definitely given me some ideas!

I have only ordered from a few places as far online livestock purchases. I like Live Aquaria as they seem to have a decent selection and pretty good service. I have only had one DOA out of six orders from them and they credited it the same day.

 

I think I saw your thread and will post some comments in it. I am glad to hear you got some ideas from my thread. :happy:

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WindCloudWRX

Where did you buy that tank? Does it come w/ a stock skimmer?

 

How's the aqua holding up?

Could the tunze possibly fit in the back?

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sammy33
Where did you buy that tank? Does it come w/ a stock skimmer?

 

How's the aqua holding up?

Could the tunze possibly fit in the back?

 

The Nano Cube came from Aqua Buys. It does come with a skimmer. The stock skimmer is air driven and works fairly well.

 

By aqua I am assuming you mean the AquaC skimmer? The AquaC remora is awesome and is holding up well. The Tunze nano doc will fit in the middle but I think you have to cut something off of the skimmer, or maybe off of the tank, or maybe both?

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