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sammy33

Upgrade pumps for [28g HQI Nano Cube]?

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sammy33

I recently got a 28g HQI Nano Cube and have thought about upgrading the pumps. I think the new JBJ accela pumps are pretty good but the idea of only 260GPH in a 28g when I have almost 400GPH in my 7g seems weak. I thought about upgrading but there is not many choices for increasing the flow. Maxi-jet 1200's are rated at 295GPH so this is only 35GPH higher than the accela. :huh:

 

The only other pumps I could find that might work are the AquaClear 70 powerhead at 400GPH and the Tunze Turbelle 1600 at 427GPH. I have a hunch that these pumps are on the big side and will be a tough fit.

 

Has anyone thought about upgrading the pumps in the 28G Nano Cube?

Edited by sammy33

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S.I.C.

I would use the maxi-jets, they are lower wattage and will transmit less heat.

I don't know about how mentioned pumps will do using the wavemaker.

 

You could always add more outlets and add two more pumps like I did or remove the wavemaker and keep both pumps on all the time.

Edited by S.I.C.

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sammy33

Here are the specs as best I could find on the pumps:

 

Maxi-jet 1200 - 295GPH, 21 watts, 3.5 x 2 x 3.25 $22.00

 

AquaClear 70 - 400GPH, 20 watts, 5 x 2.25 x 4.75 $43.00

 

Turbelle 1600 - 427GPH, 12 watts, 3.9 x 4.1, $108.00

 

I need to re-measure the openings where the pumps would go but I think that they are only like 3.5 x 4? This may mean that the maxi-jet is the only thing that will fit. :huh:

 

The Tunze Turbelle looks like it may work well for this with the low wattage draw. Will probably run very cool...not cheap though at $108 each.

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S.I.C.
Here are the specs as best I could find on the pumps:

 

Maxi-jet 1200 - 295GPH, 21 watts, 3.5 x 2 x 3.25 $22.00

 

AquaClear 70 - 400GPH, 20 watts, 5 x 2.25 x 4.75 $43.00

 

Turbelle 1600 - 427GPH, 12 watts, 3.9 x 4.1, $108.00

 

I need to re-measure the openings where the pumps would go but I think that they are only like 3.5 x 4? This may mean that the maxi-jet is the only thing that will fit. :huh:

 

The Tunze Turbelle looks like it may work well for this with the low wattage draw. Will probably run very cool...not cheap though at $108 each.

 

Are you using the wavemaker? The Tunze might or might not work well being cycled on and off constantly. The maxi-jets will do fine.

 

You can easily remove the wavemaker and keep then on all the time and double your flow without spending any money.

Edited by S.I.C.

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sammy33

That model is the standard Turbelle that runs AC so they should work on the timer. I had thought about just running the two pump without the timer but I wonder if the oveflow can handle that level of GPH?

 

I think the two stock pumps both running at 520 GPH would flow ok but I would how 850+ GPH would work? The overflow is only about 4 inches wide.

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S.I.C.
That model is the standard Turbelle that runs AC so they should work on the timer. I had thought about just running the two pump without the timer but I wonder if the oveflow can handle that level of GPH?

 

I think the two stock pumps both running at 520 GPH would flow ok but I would how 850+ GPH would work? The overflow is only about 4 inches wide.

 

Yes the overflow can handle the double pumps no problem, JBJ took this into consideration at the time of engineering.

 

You might need to break out a tooth or two on the overflow for 850+, I will be able to answer that one from experience soon but cant right now.

 

I know the pumps will "work"; but will they clank. Google "soft start".

 

Like my Tunze skimmer once I turn it off I can't turn it back on for 8 hours, its just a powerhead. Some are not designed to be turned on and off. Most pumps can't handle this in the long run.

Edited by S.I.C.

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sammy33
Like my Tunze skimmer once I turn it off I can't turn it back on for 8 hours, its just a powerhead. Some are not designed to be turned on and off. Most pumps can't handle this in the long run.

 

Does the Tunze fit in the 28g nano? Do you have the 9002 Nano DOC?

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ke6guj
Yes the overflow can handle the double pumps no problem, JBJ took this into consideration at the time of engineering.

Really? I do know that when the wavemaker gets plugged in, it turns on both pumps and will completely empty the pump chamber so that they start sucking air. The overflow never seems to catch up and refil the pump chamber. Would a higher water level help?

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sammy33
Really? I do know that when the wavemaker gets plugged in, it turns on both pumps and will completely empty the pump chamber so that they start sucking air. The overflow never seems to catch up and refil the pump chamber. Would a higher water level help?

 

This is what I thought may happen especially if all of the filter media they pack in with the tank was left in place. That was one of the first things I did was remove all of the sponge media, ceramic rings etc. There are also two foam blocks filtering the last chambers before the pumps. Removing all of this may help?

 

The other thing I may do is cut some teeth out of the filter media box. The slots look narrow enough to impede some flow especially if it was packed with media. Hmmm...can't wait to start wet testing mine. :D

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S.I.C.

Yes more water will keep the chambers full.

 

I did remove the filter box I have no restriction. You might want to add some filter floss but make sure to change it out every few days. At least did toss the bio material in there.

 

I don't know about the 9002 for the rear chamber. I have a 9010 in a sump/refugium. There are pics of it in the refugium section somewhere.

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sammy33

So now you got me thinking about skimmers. What choices would a 28g Nano Cube owner have?

 

I would guess almost any of the hang on skimmers like Remora, bakpak, Deltec would work. This really seems to be the advantage with this tank because that back section is open at the top. This allows easy use of any hang-on equipment.

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S.I.C.
So now you got me thinking about skimmers. What choices would a 28g Nano Cube owner have?

 

I would guess almost any of the hang on skimmers like Remora, bakpak, Deltec would work. This really seems to be the advantage with this tank because that back section is open at the top. This allows easy use of any hang-on equipment.

 

All of those should work.

 

What do you want to do with the tank? Then you can base your hardware around your inhabitants.

 

The Tunze is gentle on plankton but others are more aggressive.

 

Your tank bro, stack it your way. :D

Edited by S.I.C.

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sammy33
All of those should work.

 

What do you want to do with the tank? Then you can base your hardware around your inhabitants.

 

The Tunze is gentle on plankton but others are more aggressive.

 

Your tank bro, stack it your way. :D

 

Definitely a high energy system. I think this setup is capable of supporting SPS corals as is. The only thing you would need is a good way to keep up with CA and Alk demands. I am thinking an ATO with an inline kalk doser would be a good start.

 

I may even try the aquarium completely stock for at least a month just to have a base starting point to reference performance.

 

I have plenty of cured live rock and fish and corals from my 7g mini-bow ready to go in. It will end up as a mixed reef with zoanthids, LPS, SPS and likely a clam or two. A few fish as well. B)

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joesmoe517

dont know if you got an upgraded pump yet but you should look into Rio HF's. I couldnt find any site with both dimensions of the pump AND the wattage rating but if you could fit an 8HF it might be one of the better choices (even though the 10hf is the same dimensions w/ ~100gph more and its wattage seems to be a bit higher). These would also be a little cheaper than the others for a good quality pump with a cool impeller design.

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S.I.C.
Definitely a high energy system. I think this setup is capable of supporting SPS corals as is. The only thing you would need is a good way to keep up with CA and Alk demands. I am thinking an ATO with an inline kalk doser would be a good start.

 

I may even try the aquarium completely stock for at least a month just to have a base starting point to reference performance.

 

I have plenty of cured live rock and fish and corals from my 7g mini-bow ready to go in. It will end up as a mixed reef with zoanthids, LPS, SPS and likely a clam or two. A few fish as well. B)

 

Make sure you have enough LR. You want at least 1 pound per gallon of water.

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sammy33

I measured the opening where the pumps go and it is only 2 3/8" x 3.5". This means that only the stock accela pumps or maxi-jets will fit.

 

The stock pump flow is actually not that bad at 266GPH each at 16 watts. The ocean pulse wavemaker defaults to both pumps running when you first plug it in and on restart after power outs. The oveflow seems to handle this double flow pretty well but it does drop the levels in the back fairly dramatically. If using a top-off this could cause a bit of a problem if the power goes out with the ATO dumping in some extra water.

 

I understand that the both pumps should run when the timer is set at zero but I think that only one pump should run, even on startup, when there is an interval set. :huh:

Edited by sammy33

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sammy33

I did not get much opportunity to play with the tank today. The 28g nano is replacing my 7g nano at my office so I get to play only if I stay after work for a while. :angry:

 

I filled the tank with tap water to test the flow, temps and clean it up a bit before I fill with saltwater later this week. The one thing I did get to do is a quick PAR test with the stock JBJ 14K lamp and the HQI ballast.

 

Using my Apogee Quantum meter here are the readings:

 

Top (just below the surface) - 1022 PAR

4" down 685 PAR

12" down 230 PAR

 

This is pretty impressive! These levels are plenty high enough to support just about any coral. Most SPS including picky Acros only require between 300-400 PAR to reach photosynthesis saturation. These levels are a bit higher than some other 150w systems I have tested. This is probably due to the HQI ballast driving the lamp harder than an electronic ballast. Note that the water was somewhat cloudy so the levels may be a bit higher when the tank clears up.

 

The temps got up to about 79F with the lights running for about an hour. The ambient temp at my office is about 74F. Tomorrow I will let the lights run for most of the day to see if the tank gets any hotter.

Edited by sammy33

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S.I.C.
I did not get much opportunity to play with the tank today. The 28g nano is replacing my 7g nano at my office so I get to play only if I stay after work for a while. :angry:

 

I filled the tank with tap water to test the flow, temps and clean it up a bit before I fill with saltwater later this week. The one thing I did get to do is a quick PAR test with the stock JBJ 14K lamp and the HQI ballast.

 

Using my Apogee Quantum meter here are the readings:

 

Top (just below the surface) - 1022 PAR

4" down 685 PAR

12" down 230 PAR

 

This is pretty impressive! These levels are plenty high enough to support just about any coral. Most SPS including picky Acros only require between 300-400 PAR to reach photosynthesis saturation. These levels are a bit higher than some other 150w systems I have tested. This is probably due to the HQI ballast driving the lamp harder than an electronic ballast. Note that the water was somewhat cloudy so the levels may be a bit higher when the tank clears up.

 

The temps got up to about 79F with the lights running for about an hour. The ambient temp at my office is about 74F. Tomorrow I will let the lights run for most of the day to see if the tank gets any hotter.

 

This is great information for NC HQI 28G peeps! Sounds like a great start for a tank thread, start one up. :) I am sure you will have lots of people following.

Edited by S.I.C.

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sammy33

Temps after 5 hours with the stock lights and pumps running - 78.5F. This is good news. B)

post-1618-1190139722_thumb.jpg

Edited by sammy33

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sammy33

Dimensions of the 28g chambers:

 

Skimmer section - 2 3/8 x 2 3/4

Center section - 2 3/8 x 4 5/8

Pump Section - 2 3/8 x 3 1/2

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sammy33

This is the final temp after eight hours of running the lights. My digi-therm showed 80.6 and my Tropic Marin Precision therm showed 80.9. This is actually still cooler than my 7G with a 70w Sunpod.

 

No mods really needed here. The 28g Nano Cube actually runs well with the stock lighting/pump/fans.

post-1618-1190150182_thumb.jpg

Edited by sammy33

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S.I.C.
Dimensions of the 28g chambers:

 

Skimmer section - 2 3/8 x 2 3/4

Center section - 2 3/8 x 4 5/8

Pump Section - 2 3/8 x 3 1/2

 

Looking good! Have you thought about a refugium in the back?

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sammy33
Looking good! Have you thought about a refugium in the back?

 

I have. That middle section is looking very attractive for a ball of cheato and some RDP action. B)

 

Another thing I have been thinking about is Ca and Alk maintenance. I don't think the stand will have enough room for a calcium reactor/co2 bottle and an ATO/bucket, HQI ballast, ReefKeeper2 etc.

 

I thought about using one of these kalk dosers from Tunze. It fits inside the bucket and works with an ATO feeding through to mix the kalk.

post-1618-1190245237_thumb.jpg

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S.I.C.
I have. That middle section is looking very attractive for a ball of cheato and some RDP action. B)

 

Another thing I have been thinking about is Ca and Alk maintenance. I don't think the stand will have enough room for a calcium reactor/co2 bottle and an ATO/bucket, HQI ballast, ReefKeeper2 etc.

 

I thought about using one of these kalk dosers from Tunze. It fits inside the bucket and works with an ATO feeding through to mix the kalk.

 

I am surprised nobody has made this a fuge, its easier than the NC24. Well at least I have not seen one posted.

 

I agree about the amount of room and from what I have seen dialing in a reactor is difficult and not accurate due to the low flow bubble rate nanos require.

 

I will be using a dosing A & B using pump Litermeter III. This is about 6 months out so I still have more research to do on this topic and have time to change my mind. Maybe somebody will come out with a complete nano reactor setup that works reliably. I don't knock kalk, there many people who swear by it.

 

You might know but Two Part Solutionhas good bulk pricing without a label.

 

As far as the stand this is where my issue lies. I planned not using the shelf at all. I found that the middle shelf is engineered to be in that location for support. When you place the empty tank on the stand without the shelf the sides bow slightly. I can only imaging that the stand would collapse if tank was full. I figured out what I need to do but just need to find the time to work this one out. Simple bracing from top to bottm will not work since my sump/fuge fills the entire compartment.

 

I don't recommend modifying the stand to anybody. The stand is the only thing I don't like about it but I did create this monster.

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fourtanks

I removed everything in the back compartments and the pumps still sucked air when I ran them both at the same time.

 

I added the tunze nanostream 6025 which doesn't look bad in the display tank and it adds 660gph to the 260. This way I didn't have the restraint of trying to fit something else in the back.

 

Has anyone looked into upgrading the skimmer? Is there a better one that will fit where the standard one goes?

Edited by fourtanks

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