REEFERBOY Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 ill add updated fts in 2-3 days i think give the corals time to adjust to new places, camera for some reason dosent do colors justice tho a top of the line camera it rarely seems to capture the way my bias eyes see the tank lol Link to comment
REEFERBOY Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 anyone know if frogspawn and torch can sting eachother? Link to comment
jedidad Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 frogspawn and torch should be just fine next to each other. you can also keep a hammer with them. tank is looking great. wish i could get the traffic on my tank thread you do. Link to comment
REEFERBOY Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 frogspawn and torch should be just fine next to each other. you can also keep a hammer with them. tank is looking great. wish i could get the traffic on my tank thread you do. the only traffic on here are the same 3-4 people...and mainly 1$r, you and redstang...honestly for th amount i post updates i wonder if theres a better site out there with more posters to banter with, also if u are checking by numbers ive been on this site with my tank for 3.5 years or so so amount of views is basd on that Link to comment
jedidad Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 yeah i've wondered the same thing. i also use reef central but i get even less traffic on there. it seems like if your not in the in crowd on here you don't get much notice. Link to comment
shaqdan Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 Great pics. Has the anemone stopped moving around so much since the Clown decided to host it? Link to comment
REEFERBOY Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 Great pics. Has the anemone stopped moving around so much since the Clown decided to host it? it has settled in that top left nook for a week now, moved yesterday to where feather dusters are but moved back 4 hours later to same spot.....i hope it just dials into where it is...tho i heard if they move its for a reason so maybe im due for a water change..... (tho im not til sunday) yeah i've wondered the same thing. i also use reef central but i get even less traffic on there. it seems like if your not in the in crowd on here you don't get much notice. yo same man i tried reefcentral but same thing it seemed even worse than here !!! i dunno ill just keep posting updates n questions i dont need answers too lol Link to comment
REEFERBOY Posted July 16, 2011 Author Share Posted July 16, 2011 corals settled so heres a couple of pics frogspawn/torch "lawn" ricordia and stomli thing more open aussie acan thing another acan frag behind favite and the blasts for 1$R comments ?? Link to comment
jedidad Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 nice new specimens. should look great when it starts to grow out. Link to comment
jedidad Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 I've got a blasto like your red one but it's only like 3/4 of a head. someone did a real hack job on fragging it. It seems to be doing well so far. Can't wait for it to grow out though. What kind of nitrate levels do you usually have? I can keep mine under 10 fairly easily but I would like to get it to 0. I want to start keeping some sps. Link to comment
REEFERBOY Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 I've got a blasto like your red one but it's only like 3/4 of a head. someone did a real hack job on fragging it. It seems to be doing well so far. Can't wait for it to grow out though. What kind of nitrate levels do you usually have? I can keep mine under 10 fairly easily but I would like to get it to 0. I want to start keeping some sps. jedidad, i honestly havent checked in a couple of months (mainly because things are going well but i will go check right now for you as i have a kit) will have an answer (and some other test answers to in half hour or so) Link to comment
REEFERBOY Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 Based on test kits and note that water change was due today but didnt get time so will do tmrw NITRATE= 10 NITRITE= 0.2 (i did high range test) tho low range sid to compare with higher numbers which i found odd CALCIUM= 400PPM tho depletion is normal for day of water change PH = 8.0 i dont really know what optimal PH is i think CALCIUM should be 450-550, NITRITE seems fine and NITRATE looks good only problem i have is that my tank is running at 85* its been super hot here for a the weekend, ive been adding ice cubes and floating ice packs to help but it isnt doing much to be honest, i usually run around 80-82 tho and have my thermostat set to 81 so that the swings arent too big. Link to comment
longbeachstateofmind Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 You have people watching your thread. Most people just lurk. Nice tank BTW. Link to comment
Coastie5685 Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 80-82. pretty high man. i usually freak if i ever see 80 on my thermostat. chiller time?? lol.. Link to comment
REEFERBOY Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 80-82. pretty high man. i usually freak if i ever see 80 on my thermostat. chiller time?? lol.. u think?? i did some reading about reefs like to be around 80-82 but maybe i should do some more research....if it should be lower ima have to get a chiller i guess ugghh, it has been uncharacteristically hot for the last two weeks here in calgary canada and my tank is by an east facing window so even tho i keep curtains closed the room still gets very hot, maybe i should just get ac for the whole house !!! from www.reefkeeping.com "In most instances, trying to match the natural environment in a reef aquarium is a worthy goal. Temperature may, however, be a parameter that requires accounting for the practical considerations of a small closed system. Looking to the ocean as a guide for setting temperatures in reef aquaria may present complications, because corals grow in such a wide range of temperatures. Nevertheless, Ron Shimek has shown in a previous article that the greatest variety of corals are found in water whose average temperature is about 83-86° F. Reef aquaria do, however, have limitations that may make their optimal temperature somewhat lower. During normal functioning of a reef aquarium, the oxygen level and the metabolic rate of the aquarium inhabitants are not often important issues. During a crisis such as a power failure, however, the dissolved oxygen can be rapidly used up. Lower temperatures not only allow a higher oxygen level before an emergency, but will also slow the consumption of that oxygen by slowing the metabolism of the aquarium's inhabitants. The production of ammonia as organisms begin to die may also be slower at lower temperatures. For reasons such as this, one may choose to strike a practical balance between temperatures that are too high (even if corals normally thrive in the ocean at those temperatures), and those that are too low. Although average reef temperatures in maximal diversity areas (i.e. coral triangle centered Indonesia,) these areas are also often subject to significant mixing. In fact, the cooler reefs, ( i..e. open Pacific reefs) are often more stable at lower temperatures due to oceanic exchange but are less tolerant to bleaching and other temperature related perturbations. All things considered, those natural guidelines leave a fairly wide range of acceptable temperatures. I keep my aquarium at about 80-81° F year-round. I am actually more inclined to keep the aquarium cooler in the summer, when a power failure would most likely warm the aquarium, and higher in winter, when a power failure would most likely cool it. All things considered, I recommend temperatures in the range of 76-83° F unless there is a very clear reason to keep it outside that range." a chart from same webpage Table 1.� Parameters critical to control in reef aquaria. Parameter: Reef Aquaria Recommendation: Typical Surface Ocean Value:1 Calcium 380-450 ppm 420 ppm Alkalinity 2.5-4 meq/L 7-11 dKH 125-200 ppm CaCO3 equivalents 2.5 meq/L 7 dKH 125 ppm CaCO3 equivalents Salinity 35 ppt sg = 1.026 34-36 ppt sg = 1.025-1.027 Temperature 76-83° F Variable2 pH 7.8-8.5 OK 8.1-8.3 is better 8.0-8.3 (can be lower or higher in lagoons) Magnesium 1250-1350 ppm 1280 ppm Phosphate < 0.03 ppm 0.005 ppm Ammonia <0.1 ppm Variable (typically <0.1 ppm) Table 2.� Other parameters in reef aquaria. Parameter: Reef Aquaria Recommendation: Typical Ocean Value:1 Silica < 2 ppm, much lower if diatoms are a problem <0.06 - 2.7 ppm Iodine Control not recommended 0.06 ppm total of all forms Nitrate < 0.2 ppm Variable (typically below 0.1 ppm) Nitrite < 0.2 ppm typically Variable (typically below 0.0001 ppm) Strontium 5-15 ppm 8 ppm ORP Control not recommended Variable Boron < 10 ppm 4.4 ppm Iron Below Kit Detection Limits (additions OK) 0.000006 ppm Link to comment
REEFERBOY Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 i guess i could jump on the wagon and switch to leds....my viper 150mh does give off a whack load of heat.....anyone have any ideas as to what would be comparable ?? im not very hands on diy kinda guy so something that is alrdy set up would be ideal for me Link to comment
Jtotheb Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 If you're looking for less heat but still alot of light look into the 6 T5 Nova Extreme Pro. I have one with the nanotuners UVL bulbs. I did have to open it up and replace the fans with super quiet computer case fans though. But other than that I couldn't be happier with it. I also gutted the bc hood, cut it into two, and then put the fixture centered in the middle. Looks close to stock and get the benefit of a close top. Also I had to do a small simple mod to make the bulbs fit. Long story, issues with bulbs not fixture. Do you like your light alot? Maybe at this point just get a chiller. You'll be able to keep your light and never worry about temps again. I just figure with price of new fixture and or bulbs, throw a chiller on. I have a Artica 1/15 on my bc29 and love never worrying about temps even if the air goes out for a while. Remember also, air conditioning can go out for days at a time. After having the peace of mind of a chiller, I will never run a reef tank without one again. But I know money doesn't grow on trees. So that you know, I've only been in the hobby with one bc29 for a couple of years. When I did my research into torch, hammers, and frogspwans touching. Most people never have problems. But it does seem that they can start fighting on rare occasions. You should be on the look out for this. Even now but down the road when they grow out. Our nano tanks cant take too much coral warfare in such a small amount of space. A torch and frogspawn battle could affect everything in you tank. Something to look into. I just hopped on your build. Looks great! Link to comment
REEFERBOY Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 If you're looking for less heat but still alot of light look into the 6 T5 Nova Extreme Pro. I have one with the nanotuners UVL bulbs. I did have to open it up and replace the fans with super quiet computer case fans though. But other than that I couldn't be happier with it. I also gutted the bc hood, cut it into two, and then put the fixture centered in the middle. Looks close to stock and get the benefit of a close top. Also I had to do a small simple mod to make the bulbs fit. Long story, issues with bulbs not fixture. Do you like your light alot? Maybe at this point just get a chiller. You'll be able to keep your light and never worry about temps again. I just figure with price of new fixture and or bulbs, throw a chiller on. I have a Artica 1/15 on my bc29 and love never worrying about temps even if the air goes out for a while. Remember also, air conditioning can go out for days at a time. After having the peace of mind of a chiller, I will never run a reef tank without one again. But I know money doesn't grow on trees. So that you know, I've only been in the hobby with one bc29 for a couple of years. When I did my research into torch, hammers, and frogspwans touching. Most people never have problems. But it does seem that they can start fighting on rare occasions. You should be on the look out for this. Even now but down the road when they grow out. Our nano tanks cant take too much coral warfare in such a small amount of space. A torch and frogspawn battle could affect everything in you tank. Something to look into. I just hopped on your build. Looks great! thanks for the comments and advice. like i said im terrible for diy....to be honest tho i dont hugely like my light as a look, i dont find it blue enough for my liking and most of the photos show the honest color of my tank, some violet or blue leds would sure help that. do you know if i can send nanotuners my current hood and have them fit it out for me? Link to comment
jedidad Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 thanks for the info. that list of preferred params is nie too. i didn't realize that most corals lived in that warm of waters. Link to comment
Jtotheb Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 I don't really know. I haven't played around on the website in awhile. It sadly seems though that due to low demand (poor economy) nanotuners is having to scale operations down a little. Still there though and have always been more than helpful. That includes just emailing them with what you're looking for and what they could do for ya. They have me hooked for life on the uvl T5-r bulbs! LOL Link to comment
REEFERBOY Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 I don't really know. I haven't played around on the website in awhile. It sadly seems though that due to low demand (poor economy) nanotuners is having to scale operations down a little. Still there though and have always been more than helpful. That includes just emailing them with what you're looking for and what they could do for ya. They have me hooked for life on the uvl T5-r bulbs! LOL you have a link to ur tank by chance? ive been looking around the inet and clamp on leds seem to be running around $600 + for good ones....maybe this is why everyone diys lol i'd be in for a $200-300 switch over to leds but that about max considering i already have a 150w mh with a 3 month old bulb i looked at chillers too but they were around $600+ as well...... feeling kinda stuck here...i could just run a $25 fan aross my water surface Link to comment
jedidad Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 i would try the fan before shelling out for a chiller Link to comment
REEFERBOY Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 i would try the fan before shelling out for a chiller aha yeah thats what ill be doing. i had a fan before but for some reason decided i would throw it out after i went back to having the top on. now im top off again n need a fan again lol. donkey move on my part. especially having the ato so i dont have to worry about extra evap from fan Link to comment
REEFERBOY Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 yo i got a coco worm today !!! not as cool as yours III but it will look good with my brown feather duster and purple feather duster. pics to come maybe tmrw Link to comment
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