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Light Acclimation necessary?


MWafler

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In my 10g, I have a small BTA, some purple mushrooms and a small Zoa frag. I'm upgrading from 65W PC to 150W Mh. Do I still need to do a screen layer acclimation or can I just put the light over and slowly lower it? (and if so to how close.) Thanks.

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In my 10g, I have a small BTA, some purple mushrooms and a small Zoa frag. I'm upgrading from 65W PC to 150W Mh. Do I still need to do a screen layer acclimation or can I just put the light over and slowly lower it? (and if so to how close.) Thanks.

 

I have always thought of light acclimation as nonsense...on my 180, I went straight from pc lighting to 3x250 with no problems. When you ship a coral, they spend time in complete darkness...light acclimation would also insinuate that you should slowly introduce shipped coral to light since it is used to the darkness.

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I went from stock lighting in my BC29 to 150 MH and I started to light aclimate - however someone told me that I really didn't need to since all I had was softies anyhow... So on the 3rd day I pulled off all the layers of netting and jsut went for it. I did have one casualty... my neon green hairy mushroom went inside out while red and blue hairy which was on the lower part of my tank did just fine.

 

The netting cost me .75 cents at a fabric store - Mushroom was $7.00 - I should of taken it slower.

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Yes, I'd light-acclimate them. 65W to 150W mh is a huge jump!

 

either the screen method or the gradual increasing lighting period will work fine.

 

I once bought a hammer that was only exposed to artinics at the lfs. When I got it in my tank, it shrank when my lights were on. I had to do a lighting acclimation for it, like about a week's time. And mine is only t5ho 96W.

 

So, better be safe than sorry. hth

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Play the safe side, acclimate even for a week. I just recently upgraded my lighting from PC to 250W MH, I hang the hallide 2ft above the water level then lowered it 2 inches every two days till I reached my desire height of 8 inches above water level.

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