Jump to content

Aquaclear 500 baffle question


Helpinsmepls

Recommended Posts

Helpinsmepls

Hi,

 

Ive seen many pictures of the aquaclear 500 DIY fuge. And I have a question about the 2 baffles that go in to the right of the propeller. What are the exact measurements of these baffles? Do they go all the way down to the bottom of the aquaclear?

 

I would think they would have to, so the sand would be kept out of the impeller. But if that's the case how does the water flow into the holding chamber?

 

Just a few noobish questions so I get that mod right. Would hate to have to undo silicon and super glue

 

 

Also I bought a 18w fluorescent daylight bulb from walmart to put on this fuge. Anyone else had success with it? Or should I use a clip on lamp with a 27w curly Compact?

 

What Kelvin rating should I be shooting for?

 

 

Also I know mandarins are mostly frowned upon here but some have been able to keep them. I have 40+ pounds of LR and am getting some cheato for my fuge. Anyone know any products that can add some live pods to my fuge? I want to supplement the pod growth I already have on the back and sides of my glass.

 

Oh and can brine shrimp live in a fuge on a SW tank?

 

Thanks

Link to comment
shaggydoo541

I ran an ac500 on my 18g and all I did was put in a couple pieces of LR and some chaeto. No need for baffles really since it will accomplish little to put sand in so small of a space.

Link to comment
Helpinsmepls
I ran an ac500 on my 18g and all I did was put in a couple pieces of LR and some chaeto. No need for baffles really since it will accomplish little to put sand in so small of a space.

 

 

Is there a way to keep the flow reasonable without adding a baffle or cutting the propeller. I know it has the built in adjustment. I have no way of replacing the propeller if I make a mistake cutting it.

Link to comment

I have an AC 110 (500) modded fuge on my 10g... I cut a piece of acrylic to fit perfectly, ran it flush with the bottom (so I could have a sand bed) and used aquarium sealant to lock everything in place. You want to leave about an inch and a half at the top, so the water can flow over the baffle. I also put in a small chamber for my heater. IMO, the flow was too strong still, so I trimmed the propeller down. I believe there are six blades on the propeller... I cut 3 in half, and left the other 3 alone. The flow turned out perfectly for me. I have a refugium mud bed, lr rubble, and cheato that I have to trim down every two weeks... its also loaded with pods. I am only running a 13w Azoo Galaxy II Light, which has been plenty of light for the not even half gallon fuge chamber.

 

As for aquacultured pods, I've seen a few online stores that sell them. I even think Drs. Foster & Smith have them available from time to time. But I don't think you really need it. If you can get some seeded chaeto, you'll be overrun with pods in no time.

Link to comment
shaggydoo541

Why do you want to cut down on the amount of flow? More is better in most situations and I think most tanks do not have enough water movement (bad generalization I know).

Link to comment
yankeereefer

Baffles are virtually the same size as the sides of the media basket that came with your filter - Your baffles should go all the way to the bottom of the filter - water will flow over the tops of them, filling the heater chamber and the refugium

 

I use a spiral daylight bulb for my HOB fuge - Shoot for a 6500k or so spectrum - Do a search in DIY forum for my name (Yankeereefer) - I made a thread on the fuge light I built for my AC -

 

IMO - I don't think that the AC fuge will be able to produce enough of a pod population to sustain a mandarin, even if you "seed" the fuge with the bottled pods. Those who have been successful with mandarins have weaned them onto prepared foods.

 

I did not trim the impeller on my AC500 - I would suggest that you look into the surface skimmer that hooks up to the AC's intake tube. It's $7-10 - Not only will it keep the film from building on your water surface, it will also significantly reduce the flow. You should also note that as your filter ages, it will slow down. Should you decide to cut your impeller and screw up, replacements can be found at or ordered by most LFS's

 

Let your silicone dry for a full 24 hrs before attempting to expose it to water - I didn't and I ended up having to redo it which delayed my getting started another day.

Link to comment
Helpinsmepls

Thank you all very much!

 

Im going to start a 20gallon pod factory and im going to use the HOB fuge on my 29 as an exchanger between the 2 tanks. I read the fish may eat cyclopsees, and I can alway's wait to get it till I can see the petstore has one that feeds on processed food.

 

Thanks again

Link to comment
Why do you want to cut down on the amount of flow? More is better in most situations and I think most tanks do not have enough water movement (bad generalization I know).

 

Generally agreed... but for a hob fuge, you don't necessarily want 500 gph. If you compare other similarly sized fuges (the small hob CPR Aquafuge, for instance), they usually run just a small pump around 150 gph. And don't quote me on this, but I believe that even the small CPR fuge is alot bigger than the AC which runs at the aforementioned 500 gph. Just my opinion. B)

Link to comment
shaggydoo541
Generally agreed... but for a hob fuge, you don't necessarily want 500 gph. If you compare other similarly sized fuges (the small hob CPR Aquafuge, for instance), they usually run just a small pump around 150 gph. And don't quote me on this, but I believe that even the small CPR fuge is alot bigger than the AC which runs at the aforementioned 500 gph. Just my opinion. B)

 

Well I ran the ac500 on my 18g and didn't throttle it down at all. In fact I tried to clean it as much as possible to keep it flowing at max capacity. My chaeto loved it and my 18g still needed more water movement so I added a mj900 and would have added more if I had more space.

Link to comment
Helpinsmepls
Well I ran the ac500 on my 18g and didn't throttle it down at all. In fact I tried to clean it as much as possible to keep it flowing at max capacity. My chaeto loved it and my 18g still needed more water movement so I added a mj900 and would have added more if I had more space.

 

 

Really? I have a aquaclear 70 on my 29g and it on full flow seems to be the max the tank can handle. It picks up my corals so I had to move them to a quiet spot. And my clown pair and neon will not go near it. Although I do have a powerhed running in the other corner with a ocilating head to prevent dead spots. (funny but my fish sleep under it. I think the flow is less intence under the powerhead.)

 

also with this filter I added a front screen and placed in some cheato and it would get pushed up against the screen even with low flow setting. Ultimatly this cheato died so thats why I got the 110 for a real HOB fuge with low flow.

Link to comment
travisurfer

i just did one baffle. i put my heater on the side closest to the prop so that all the water has to flow over it. on the other side was rubble, sand, and rock. it ended up just being chaeto in the end though.

Link to comment

I would buy reef mud for the substrate. I did 3 one-inch baffles and a 5 inch divider. I have one bag of chemipure between the chamber and the impeller assembly. I have about 5 lbs of LR rubble in the chamber and 18watts of 6700k lighting for the chaeto. 6700k is the typical wattage used for planted tanks and will really make your cheato grow. I leave mine on 24/7. Stick a tiny CUC inside to control any algae.

Link to comment
shaggydoo541

My chaeto would get pushed over the edge of the ac500 sometimes, but I would just roll it over and ball it back up. I actually got better growth of chaeto in my ac500 than in my current sump under my 120g. I had to take softball size chunks out of my ac500 almost every week.

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recommended Discussions

×
×
  • Create New...