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Quick Chiller Question


Phuntoon

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I'm gonna get a 1/15hp chiller for my 29g. Question is, When I read the specs for it it says, min flow 300 max flow 600. Does this mean I need to get a separate pump to run it or does the chiller itself have an internal pump with flow adjuster? Thanks for any replies!

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Scott Riemer
I'm gonna get a 1/15hp chiller for my 29g. Question is, When I read the specs for it it says, min flow 300 max flow 600. Does this mean I need to get a separate pump to run it or does the chiller itself have an internal pump with flow adjuster? Thanks for any replies!

Which chiller?

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1/15hp Current USA Prime Chiller w/ Dual Stage Thermostat

 

specs here:

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=CU02680

 

If I do in fact need a pump, Could you recommend one? I don't have a sump so I'd prefer one that could be outside the tank and not add to the powerhead clutter in the tank. Thanks for any replies!

 

There are plenty of options for this but I have found through much research that it all depends on the head. What this means is that how much tubing are you planing on having coming from the tank to the pump, to the chiller and back to the tank? Is it going to be straight up or is it going to be just some arcs out of the tank and back into the tank..

 

I would say you need to look at the head room for the blueline series. I would probably suggest

 

Blueline Pumps

 

I would also suggest that you take a look at the head room

 

BlueLine Head Charts

 

Then I would suggest you purchase from

 

Champion Lighting Prices

 

They seems to have very reasonable prices and shipping.

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It needs it's own pump... Since the flow requirements are high, maybe consider an external pump like a Quiet one or a Mag, or even an Eheim. For an internal pump, Rio's aren't too shabby.

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There are plenty of options for this but I have found through much research that it all depends on the head. What this means is that how much tubing are you planing on having coming from the tank to the pump, to the chiller and back to the tank? Is it going to be straight up or is it going to be just some arcs out of the tank and back into the tank..

 

It's a 29g tank on a stand and the chiller would be sitting next to the tank. I'm guessing about 4 feet or so for each tube. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by straight up, but I think my plan is what you said with the "arc" setup. I would have the 2 tubes coming from the chiller up the back reaching up and over into the tank and then back down to the chiller. Also is the pump connected to the tube going down into the chiller, or the return tube pumping it back into the aquarium?

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Running a Mag 2 on that same chiller right now. It's feeding a 1.5 gallon tank only so I had to ramp the flow down with a valve (half open). It's pushing through about 4' of head total.

 

I would take a look at something like a Mag 3 or 5 to run that chiller with about 3' of head and then add a valve on there so that you can fine tune the flow.

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It's a 29g tank on a stand and the chiller would be sitting next to the tank. I'm guessing about 4 feet or so for each tube. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by straight up, but I think my plan is what you said with the "arc" setup. I would have the 2 tubes coming from the chiller up the back reaching up and over into the tank and then back down to the chiller. Also is the pump connected to the tube going down into the chiller, or the return tube pumping it back into the aquarium?

 

What I meant by straight up was having the hose from the tank straight down to the pump and straight up back to the tank.. Make sure you know the exact figures.. I have an AP12 sitting on a table and I have the pump on the table with the chiller at the same level as the tank. I have 3.5 feet to the pump, 1 foot to the chiller and another 3.5 back into the tank. That is an 8 foot head with a drop in tube size to 3/8ths inside the chiller itself. That should give me about 250 - 280 return flow through the chiller and back into the tank ( which I like cause it provides extra flow ) In your case you have to decide where to start the pull and where the return is going, measuring that cable well and seeing if your hose even fits in the tank and what size OD and ID it is compare to the pump and the chiller connections. Make sure you consider everything there for connections. You might need some extra parts to make things work a drop in size from the pump input of maybe 3/4 down to 1/2 inch tubing again dropping the flow rates etc...

 

Really draw it out and put measurements on the paper including connector sizes. Make sure you have it well planned. Get some clamps too for the external connections just so you never have to deal with leaks and potential slip offs.

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I could be totally wrong here, but I believe head pressure really only comes into play when pushing the water UP, rather than across or down in Mynd's case. Eitherway a control valve wouldn't be a bad idea since many pumps (such as the MJ1200 powering my 1/20th Arctica Nano chiller) aren't adjustable unfortunately. I'm running '6 feet of total tube length with about '2.75 of it actually having the water be lifted through it. I put my chiller ontop of the box it came in right next to my tank, both the raise it up to minimize tube length and head lift and also since on the floor in the corner it's in would probably increase the heat factor of it as I'm sure the carpet would retain a bit of the heat. I have a temp sensor on the back of the chiller and it says the output air is usually between 103F and 108F!! :o Never realized they run that hot to expel the heat from the water they intake.

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