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You all are my last hope


mels95yj

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Ok, for the last month or so, I've been battling cyano. It's gotten worse, and I cannot, for the life of me, stop it. The cyano on the sand is getting plenty of flow. The cyano is blowing like crazy. I'm about ready to take the tank down for good. Here's what I've done so far:

 

Weekly 13% WC's with RO/DI

Occasional 50% WC's

Red Slime Remover on four occasions

Maracyn 1 tablets on two occasions

Reduced lighting to 7 hrs of daytime lights (9 hrs total including actinics)

Added air pump with bubble stone in rear chamber

Currently using AquaC Remora (not nano version) for four days now

 

I don't know what else to do here! I only use RO/DI and always have. No tap water here. I only use IO salt to 1.026. All the softies in tank are shrunken, the mushrooms are shriveled, but the open brain is looking fine.

 

I cannot have chaeto for some reason. I've tried twice and it always gets gunked up with some kind of hairy, jelly substance. My parameters are the following using Salifert kits:

 

Temp - 81°

dKH - 7.6

Ca - 420

NO2 - 0

NO3 - .2

PO4 - 0

 

Any suggestions? The only thing that has been added in the last few months is a 3.24 hood which was in January. I'm thinking about switching back to the stock hood. TIA

 

Mel

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I haven't tried Chemi-Pure yet, but I thought Red Slime Remover was the same thing just from a different manufacturer. I'll see if the LFS has any.

 

I forgot my ph is 8.2

 

Mel

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Which RSR did you use?

 

UltraLife

 

Slimenew.jpg

 

I don't think this matters, but the "cyano" is not red, it's green, but I've read that cyano can be both colors.

 

Mel

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It's long, stringy and holds air bubbles so I assumed it was cyano. When I first set up the tank, I battled hair algae, so I know it's not that. This started off on the sand, but is now moving onto the rocks and coral. If I take the baster, I can blast it off the rocks and then suck it up.

 

Sorry, I meant I haven't used Chemi Clean, not Chemi Pure.

 

Mel

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travisurfer

Is the red slime remover the chemi-clean brand? If so, you can take a bit of a gamble here. To finally get rid of your cyano, I would:

1) do a 25% waterchange syphoning as much cyano as you can off of the sand and scrub it off of the rocks

2) turn off your skimmer and remove all carbon

3) add an airstone driven by and airpump to the tank

4) dose the normal amount of chemiclean

5) the day after, do another small dose of chemiclean. I think i used half the recommended dosage.

6) wait through the entire 40hr period or whatever it is they call for. i can't recall it atm and keep filter floss over your pump intakes to catch all the cyano.

7) then, do your 40% waterchange that the box tells you to do. syphon up any remaining cyano.

8) turn on your skimmer and replace any carbon, etc.

 

that is rather risky imo, but it worked for me. again, only do this if you are desperate to get rid of it and willing to take a risk.

 

EDIT: I used boyd's chemiclean red slime remover but I will leave this up here for anyone else needing help with stubborn cyano.

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The Propagator

One problem that will keep it thriving is drirect constant current.

I dont know why but it will grow stonger and thicker under direct unchanging current.

 

This is what I would dop if it were me......

1:st vaccum up all you can , then pull your carbon

add some Ultra red slime remover.

 

Wait 24-36 hours......

 

Change your filter pads and carbon then add a phosphate sponge.

Shorten your photo period to 6 hours per day for a week.

 

That will definately get rid of it short term so you can get a better handle on it.

 

Sounds like you have excess nutrient issues in a big way.

Have you tested your water parameters lately?

 

Also make sure your filtration is adequated for the tank size and that your skimmer is adequate for the tank size too.

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hmm ... ive have read an article in a fish magazine (can't remeber which one) but it said that if you leave the cyano build up on the sand bed and it starts to trap air or gas bubbles it can become so wide spread that it smothers itself ... when i had cc i had a serious problem with red cyano (because of build up of nutrients) and i got so fed up i left it and it slowy disappeared on its own

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One problem that will keep it thriving is drirect constant current.

I dont know why but it will grow stonger and thicker under direct unchanging current.

 

This is what I would dop if it were me......

1:st vaccum up all you can , then pull your carbon

add some Ultra red slime remover.

 

Wait 24-36 hours......

 

Change your filter pads and carbon then add a phosphate sponge.

Shorten your photo period to 6 hours per day for a week.

 

That will definately get rid of it short term so you can get a better handle on it.

 

Sounds like you have excess nutrient issues in a big way.

Have you tested your water parameters lately?

 

Also make sure your filtration is adequated for the tank size and that your skimmer is adequate for the tank size too.

Propagater is Correct , follow these steps . The only thing I would add to this is when your doing the water changes suck out the sand ( All of it ) . It's no big deal you can always add live sand later when you get it under control . In the mean time it will be easier to blast it off and net it out on a bare bottom . Good Luck and don't give up . Three years from now it will just be a bad memory as you enjoy your piece of the ocean .

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As Dud says above: I DK if it is the same for SW, but in a planted FW tank I had, there was a HUGE cyano bloom... I would pick at it, and it would grow back like crazy. I literally gave up, and said to myself... it has to at some point run out of nutrients (the tank was empty save plants, as I had just set it up) So... I was able to just let it sit, and after 4 days, everything was covered! Then, the next day, it recided (sp?) and got smaller and smaller, and I haven't seen it since! (tank has been up for a little over a year now)

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Just poping in to make sure, but you have tested your RO/DI to 0 TDS, correct?

 

Also, just wondering what is causing such high Nitrates... Are you doing heavy feedings, how many fish/gallon do you have?

 

Also you said your chaeto keeps dying off, do you have it under MH? Or is it under a smaller florescent lamp?

 

-Chuck

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I tested my RO/DI a few months ago and it was reading 3TDS, so while not zero, it wasn't too bad.

 

I necessarily wouldn't consider .2 nitrates as being high.

 

I have had a problem maintaining alk, as I have to add B-Ionic every morning. My ph has read 8.2 since I've had the kit which is about 2 months. This is testing during the day with the lights on. I can't test at night since I'm not at work. I was having calcium precipitation because some of my sand was hardening. Since adding the bubble stone, that has ceased.

 

I feed no more than twice a week, but usually only once. Currently, I have an clown and skunk shrimp along with about 7 or 8 snails. Corals I have an open brain, ricordia, mushrooms, toadstool, devil's hand and neon green sinularia.

 

My cheato wasn't dying. It was getting filled with slimy gunk. It would grow, and I'd have to trim it back, but it was getting gunked up, so I tossed it both times.

 

The only things in my chambers are filter floss, grounding probe, heater, thermostat probe and return pump.

 

Mel

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I recently went through a huge problem with Dinoflageletts (Brown Slimy Algea) on my 29 gallon tank which sounds similar to what you have. This algea is a brown slime with strings that produce air bubbles.

 

To get rid of the problem I have done the following:

 

1. Transferred the fish to another tank so I would not be adding nutrients to the water.

 

2. Added Boyd's Chemi Pure (bag) to my skimmer output trap

 

3. Reduced photo period to 4 hours per day for a week. Corals should survive this short time period.

 

4. Did a 5 gallon water change ever 3 days for 2 weeks

 

5. Finally added 1/2 tablet miracyn (I think this is how you spell it)

 

Also, make sure you clean the top of the sand bed to get any of the algae off of it along with the rocks and glass. This stuff will reproduce and as it dies it lets off more nutrients to almost self- feed itself.

 

It taks a lot of time and effort to get rid of these types of algea. Do a search on the Dino's to see what it says about that. One thing I did not try was to raise my PH to 8.6. Apparently Dino's don't live under such a high PH.

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Also, just because your test kits are reading low levels doesn't mean you don't have excess nutrients. In many cases, fast growers can easily use up all excess nutrients before they can get to your test kit.

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