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I want to get going on Saturday -- help!


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I've taken so long to decide on a tank -- I've got one now and I want to get going. I want to have any mods done by Friday. I'm thinking of doing another pump -- in addition to the one that's already there -- w/ a return like the one on this cadlights tank.

 

http://www.cadlights.com/product_info.php?...fb96331d06cfa59

 

Anyone have any suggestions as to how I should do this? Which chamber, etc.? I also want to have a fuge in there. Any other suggestions?

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That would be cool...

 

Where would you put the second pump? Chamber 1 would be the best I would think, depending on your fuge plans (if you have any)

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If you got a really small pump, you could put it in chamber 3 (where stock pump is) on top of the sponge. Then drill a hole, and run it down and along the back, and around to the front. (Just an idea)

flyingjeff: I think that a pump in chamber 1 (assuming you mean where the slits are) may stop the flow around the tank, and may make the back chamber run dry. (Because it will remove any water that may come in through the slits via the stock pump.)

I'm not sure if this is true, but it seems this would happen.

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I would recommend doing FW testing of flow and levels prior to LR/LS SW...Most of my mod's required a little bit of tweeking to get them to funtion as needed...sometimes too much sometimes not enough!! many of the corrective actions had to take would not have been real possible if the tank was full of SW and LR/LS

 

-R

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I would recommend doing FW testing of flow and levels prior to LR/LS SW...Most of my mod's required a little bit of tweeking to get them to funtion as needed...sometimes too much sometimes not enough!! many of the corrective actions had to take would not have been real possible if the tank was full of SW and LR/LS

 

-R

 

 

Couldn't this be done Fri. night?

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Couldn't this be done Fri. night?

 

If you're fast and lucky....silicone & adhesives typically need 24hrs to cure before contact with water.... Straight tap water may contain things like chlorine etc... I think you'd want that all out and dry before adding SW...unless you used RO water for the testing, but that would take time if you have ro/di unit, or $$ if you don't. Then after any mods to the mods, you'll want to fill again and test again IMHO.

 

-R

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I know you won't like what I'm about to say... neither would I if someone posted this to me, but you really need to be patient with aquaria. If something springs a leak/ seizes up/ overheats, you could have a real problem on your hands, and you may loose everything you purchase. I wanted to get my tank up and running by the 15th of January, but I am getting a lighting mod, and even though I could purchase LR/ LS, when I add my new lighting my temps might be out of wack and my new powerhead may not work how I want. (Flow/ direction wise) Instead, I have decided to wait and be patient about it, to ensure sucess and to avoid wasting money. I would take my time, plan everything out and most importantly test it out! Tweaks may be needed, and I doubt you'll want to drain the tank just to seal something better/ reconfigure a pipe!. Do what you want, but Don't Rush!!! :D

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^^Agreed^^

 

it took me a couple months of mod/test/mod/test to get things just right. these are items that you can't just change easily if you screw up...rockscape you can change somewhat easlily...filterfloss; purgen; phosban etc...all easy; but these things are the foundation of your tank....poor foundation meens sketchy structure

-R

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Okay, Okay -- I'm sold. I'll be patient. :)

 

So... Do you guys know if there is such a thing as black pvc?

 

Also -- I'm gonna want to do a lighting mod later on. How does one manage that if they already have a tank up and running. The guy at nanotuners told me I could do that later on.....

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Very good. I think you'll be better off in the long run :D

Black PVC... did you check your local hardware store, or better yet, a lowes or home depot? (They may have somthing like that just make sure it is reefsafe!) Or better still, go here, I think this is what you're looking for:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod...p;N=2004+113794

I never used this stuff before, but it looks like it would do the trick for you... just be sure to take measurements and get all the correct adapters. (My 2 cents)

 

If you are good w/ electronics and wiring, Chris said it takes them roughly an hour. At night is probably best if you have livestock. You just pop the hood off (two pins in the hinges... use a very thin screw driver to GENTLY pop them out) You can see the detailed instructions on the page that the item is on. Only problem is, if you mess up, you're in trouble (if you have livestock that needs lighting.) From what I've heard it's not too hard, but I am sending mine in to them to mod before I set it up so everything is good and ready.

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http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...35&t=101001

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...=35&t=97920

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...=35&t=97202

 

These are BioCube 8 owners that have had great success in a slighty smaller space. I am sure it is a matter of scale to get it in a 14.

 

I have done it myself, but alas, have not updated my thread.

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Ok --

 

Tell me if this sounds right....

 

Heater in chamber one. LR rubble, then chaeto (w/ fuge light affixed to the back of the tank) with floss on top of that in chamber two. Chamber three will have stock pump on the bottom, with a small pump oin top of that. What cutting should I do on the tank except for the new pump return and the sticker on the back for the fuge light?

 

Is it possible to stick a protein skimmer somewhere in there without taking something away?

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Well, I'm trying to go skimmerless, and use a chemical pad instead, but I'm still not using a fuge. You can try the chemical media and a fuge, but it depends on what you'll be keeping. Unless you want to use chamical media alot, I would go with the skimmer instead of the fuge. Anyone out there that has used just chemical media like I am proposing? How did it work?

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If I put both pumps in chamber three, can I put them right next to each other on the bottom? Do I need to put anything in between them?

 

My thought was a small pad in between the vent and the new pump (I got a mini-jet 404 BTW) and then the two pumps side by side. Should I put anything between them?

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Are you using the blue sponge? Will they fit side by side? If so, I guess it wouldn't hurt to put some sort of pad between them to cut down on excess noise, but if they fit in next to each other without touching, and suction to the bottom, it should be fine. If not, maybe do something like this:

Chamber3.jpg

and put the second pump on a piece of plastic/ acylic- your drip tray piece would work good if you cut it down :)

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Are you using the blue sponge? Will they fit side by side? If so, I guess it wouldn't hurt to put some sort of pad between them to cut down on excess noise, but if they fit in next to each other without touching, and suction to the bottom, it should be fine. If not, maybe do something like this:

Chamber3.jpg

and put the second pump on a piece of plastic/ acylic- your drip tray piece would work good if you cut it down :)

 

 

From where the stock pump is now, there'd be a 1/4 to 1/2 inch extra space w/ the other pumpdown there. Do I need the blue sponge?

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I would be careful with the heat issues that might occur with two pumps. You might just want to upgrade the stock pump to a RIO 4HF which will give you 260 GPH. Nanotuners offers this pump and I have heard good things about it. I am considering this one myself.

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That's a really good idea- can't believe I hadn't thought about that. Then you can just split the flow (if you can, use something you can control each one (water as I am sure you know takes the path of least resistance). Good idea!

 

Sponge: I would use it, just as added protection to your pump(s). Just be sure to clean it regularly, as well as the pump(s).

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