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Biggest Reef Myths


akaMonkey

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Since I started in this hobby not too long ago, I've witnessed more than my share of misinformation, half knowledge, and controversial subjects.

 

BRISTLE WORMS - People continue to insist that bristle worms will eat things in your tank, when the experts seem to agree that aside from one or two very uncommon baddies, they're not only safe they're beneficial and will NOT eat living things. I have some big fireworms in my 29G, and they always come out and scoop up the food on the gravel bed after a feeding.

 

WATER CHANGES - I've seen everything from "weekly water changes are the most important thing you can do" to "frequent water changes reduce the stability of a tank and lead to stress." I suppose this depends on tank size, bioload, etc, but people state it as a hard and fast rule.

 

BIOBALLS ARE NITRATE FACTORIES - Can anyone actually cite any scientific evidence for this claim? I've got bioballs in my tank and when I tested the water this morning, the nitrates were less than 5. I haven't changed the water in a week, and I've been overfeeding (as evidenced by my fish getting fat).

 

YOU HAVE TO USE RO WATER - Once again, several of the books I've read say that the elements you're likely to find in tap water are far less of a concern than the other things you can do to your tank. I read the water quality report on my local tap water first and decided to give it a try, and it has been giving me less problems than many of the people I read on here who are using RO water in terms of algae blooms and such. This is another example of people spouting something as a requirement when there are obvious exceptions.

 

YOU NEED MH LIGHTING FOR CLAMS - I hear this a lot, but I continue to see posts from people who have thriving clams in tanks with PC lighting.

 

These are a few off the top of my head. Anyone else care to add or dispel some myths?

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I can adress a few of these...

 

Frequency of water changes should be determined by your bioload and filtration/skimming. If you have a likely stocked tank, you can probably get away with infrequent changes. Hell, if you dose trace elements, have a sump and fuge, and light bioload, you might be able to go months without one.

 

Bioballs in your filtration have a tendency to accumulate detritus. Rinse them off regularly and they should not add nitrates to your system. LR rubble is just better due to the porosity.

 

As for RO water, many people run successful tanks with tap water. Many more really have a tough time of it with the algae outbreaks resultant from using it. You are just fortunate to have good tap water. I know my tap water is pristine in winter, but terrible in spring and fall when our reservoir becomes a giant goose toilet for the yearly fowl migrations.

 

As for clams in with fluorescent lighting, Derasa and Gigas can do fine with enough PC or T5's.

 

BTW don't take anything in this hobby as gospel, but don't take any foolish risks either. Learn from the mistakes of others here. I know it can be frustrating when someone posts about something that is merely regurgitated, unfounded crap that they got from who knows where.

 

10 years ago, the idea of nano's at all was laughable. Limits can be stretched and "rules" rewritten.

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Ok for the record, I have never done a water change in my life. And my water is perfect. The fact of the matter is i top about 5 gallons of fresh water a week. I also use tap water which i've had no problem with, As long as you declorenize it properly you should be fine, I hate when i here that people do 10% water changes weekly, that is so unnessesary.

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Ok for the record, I have never done a water change in my life. And my water is perfect. The fact of the matter is i top about 5 gallons of fresh water a week. I also use tap water which i've had no problem with, As long as you declorenize it properly you should be fine, I hate when i here that people do 10% water changes weekly, that is so unnessesary.

 

Interesting... how long have have you been doing this? Got some pics of the system you don't change water in?

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HecticDialectics
Ok for the record, I have never done a water change in my life. And my water is perfect. The fact of the matter is i top about 5 gallons of fresh water a week. I also use tap water which i've had no problem with, As long as you declorenize it properly you should be fine, I hate when i here that people do 10% water changes weekly, that is so unnessesary.

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...p;hl=Dallassask

 

You started your tank in September. I'd hardly call three months successully "proving" that no one has to do water changes and can use tap water for top-off.

 

http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n203/Da...assstuff056.jpg

 

And your tank isn't level... (Yes... I'm a bada$$ I found pics of your tank lmao)

 

Been three months so I'd hope it looks better than that ;)

 

 

Edit: Oh...here we go http://www.saskreef.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=3291

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neanderthalman

Just FYI, the reduction of nitrates in your tank is one of the most minor reasons for a 10% weekly water change. The biggest one that comes to mind is that aquarium salt is not just plain old salt. It is a balanced mixture of many different minerals, many of which are essential for coral growth. A weekly water change is the safest and cheapest way to ensure that all essential nutrients are available for your livestock.

 

I too have neglected to do a water change for several months, and witnessed no ill effects. My nitrates were less than five, just as yours is. I also witnessed zero coral growth during that time. Your animals may not die, but their growth will likely be stunted from malnutrition. Crabs, shrimp, snails, softies, LPS, SPS, they all need calcium and iodide to grow new skeletal material, just as a single example. Dosing calcium is commonly done, but dosing Iodide/Iodine is not, and can be extremely dangerous.

 

If you had the appropriate knowledge, dosing chemicals, test kits for each element, and the time to do dozens of tests each week, then you could replenish these nutrients without water changes. IMO, I'd rather do a water change, and in two minutes, I've replenished all of the necessary elements, as well as removing some residual toxins that may or may not be present in the water.

 

Weekly water changes are not a waste, they are the least expensive and easist way to ensure the highest quality water for the animals in your care.

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I keep a 2 oz. pico reef in a medicine bottle in my back pocket. I use my body to heat it.

 

I think time has shown that if you are willing to do the work and the upkeep, it will work. None of us can say we have truly achieved long-term success. We are bottling up a natural process--it's educated luck for all of us.

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And your tank isn't level... (Yes... I'm a bada$$ I found pics of your tank lmao)

 

Been three months so I'd hope it looks better than that

 

 

OMG, pwned!!!!!!!

 

Those pics are some of the funniest stuff I've seen in while!!!!!

 

OMG HD where did you find that stuff. Good sleuthing!

 

Dallas quit strumming your banjo and do a water change!!! Oh yeah you have no livestock!!!!

 

Sorry to be a jerk but I couldn't resist :)

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I have heard quiet a few since I have only been in SW for about a month, and these are all what LFS people have told me. Mind you, some of these guys are 17 years old and some alot older to know better(Then again, maybe not).

 

1. You need a fish to cycle, so a week after you put in the liverock, you need to throw in a hardy fish like a Damsel.

 

2. You need Metal Halides for corals.

 

3. Nano's will not work, you need atleast a 50 gallon tank.

 

4. You dont need to feed the Anenomes.

 

5. Once your tank is cycled, nothing will die anymore.

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1. Make sure you drip acclimate everything for at least an hour.

 

2. You can't keep a reef without a skimmer.

 

3. No SPS will grow without MH.

 

4. Don't stick your hand in your tank without gloves on

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neanderthalman

nice.....very nice hectic, idog, and timanator.

 

1. Aragonite helps buffer a nano

 

2. You need Live Sand

 

3. You need actinic lighting

 

4. SPS all require intense light

 

5. LEDs need resistors (sorry, couldn't help myself)

 

6. All zoos contain palytoxin

 

Edit for newbs - Feel free to use tap water if you've tested it for phosphates, silicates, nitrates, copper, and the TDS. If they are all zero, and the TDS is low, go for it.

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neanderthalman

It's not BAD advice, but it is unnecessary fearmongering.

 

You can be injured by the animals in your tank. Allergic reactions, venemous fish/inverts, LR slivers (horrible), are all possible. They are also extremely rare. Know the signs of infection and allergic reaction.

 

Careful crossing the street.

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wow that tank is awsome.... i can wait to see what happens when that caulerpa goes sexual...

 

I was trying to say that ''I'' dont need to do water changes because i have almost 1 gallon of evaporation a day, you guys are all so superficial and you think if you miss your weekly water change that everything will go down the drain, there just not that important, mabey once a month but not once a week. And yah i do have livestock, i have a large colony of GSP some macro, two grey chromis, a six line wrasse, and my CUC.

 

Oh, and I dont appreciate you guys making fun of my tank, I have limited cash to spend on it, and it hasnt been set up for very long, the only point I was trying to make was that people go overboard on water changes and i think we can all agree on that

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I got some new advice from a first hand experiment last night.

 

NEVER put your arms into shoulder deep water and accidentally brush against a light canopy that has wire "shrink wraps" in place of wire nuts and electrical tape. :haha:

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I had a pair of those shoulder length gloves that you could birth a calf with...

 

Bloody useless. I would damage livestock because I could not tell the pressure I was handling stuff with. I found out I'm not allergic, so I go for it. Only annoying part is the clowns that nibble your arm hair, and the cleaner shrimp that tries to exfoliate me.

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Oh, and I dont appreciate you guys making fun of my tank, I have limited cash to spend on it, and it hasnt been set up for very long, the only point I was trying to make was that people go overboard on water changes and i think we can all agree on that

 

Oh, I've heard 'Rider fans can be senstive. Comes from losing all the time... Come on lighten up :)

 

But seriously, in three months how can you decide what is a good water change schedule? A 55 is not a nano. Water changes are crucial for nutrient export and trace mineral replenishment. You are getting along fine without them because you have less livestock than a 10g could support and you have tons of macro. Your whole tank is basically a refugium.

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Using tap water - if you are lucky enough to live in an area that has stellar water quality right out of the tap, then fine. The thing is, most of us don't. Its not fearmongering to advise people to use RO, it is just what will work best for the vast majority.

 

Partial water changes - exports bad stuff, replenishes good stuff, cleans the tank of excess detritus. cost less than bottles of part A & B. If you play your cards right, can be used as an excuse not to go to your sister-in-laws baby shower. "Gee I really want to, but....." BTW always make it sound like a water change is a huge PITA and that you really hate doing them, then turn on the game and grumble alot.

 

Most of this sage advise has some basis in fact and is what will work best for masses, exclude most LFS advise. of course.

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