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The Evil Nano Cube of Death


RayWhisperer

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Thanks everyone.

 

Mybuick, I have a protien skimmer I wanted to add. I needed to bring the PH back up after the reactor. Two problems that I found. One, was stability. I was worried about cracking. I already have three holes drilled in close proximity, and old cubes have a bad reputation. The other problem was the pump. Adding another pump would further resrict the flow getting to the last chamber, thus possibly starving the Mag. This was also the reason I couldn't build a DIY in chamber version.

 

Anyone reading this who knows me, now understands why I never have money! I've actually had to go without food at times. It's a sickness.

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Oh, trying to horn in on Mr. Fosi's glory, are we?????

;)

Yes Travis, you did, and I'll thank you now.... Thank You Travis!

Just be aware, Fosi spent about a week helping me. (Yes, I know, I'm not too bright...... But my tank is!)

 

Fish; I plan on one Barnacle blenny, if I can ever find one. I'd like something else, I just don't know what. It needs to stay really small, and withstand ALOT of current. Maybe neon gobies, what do you think?

 

Inverts; I have added some cerith snails, and stomatella's, and one other kind I can never remember the name of. Beyond that, I'm thinking a couple of staghorn hermits. That would be in keeping with the SPS theme I've got going here

 

On the down side, I've got a spot behind the rock that doesn't recive near enough light. I ended up putting a small micromussa colony back there. So, it's not entirely SPS now. I may end up removing it, and trying some deep water acros though.

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mybuickskill6979
Thanks everyone.

 

Mybuick, I have a protien skimmer I wanted to add. I needed to bring the PH back up after the reactor. Two problems that I found. One, was stability. I was worried about cracking. I already have three holes drilled in close proximity, and old cubes have a bad reputation. The other problem was the pump. Adding another pump would further resrict the flow getting to the last chamber, thus possibly starving the Mag. This was also the reason I couldn't build a DIY in chamber version.

 

Anyone reading this who knows me, now understands why I never have money! I've actually had to go without food at times. It's a sickness.

 

 

awesome, yeah cubes are known to be not so easy on the bottom glass hehe.

 

you couldn't build a version that would fit into the chamber before the pump compartment? then you wouldn't have to worry to much about starving the mag!!

 

i could imagine the not eating thing hehe. its sort of liek tweak, with out the whole rotting teeth, skin and bones look haha. dude i wish i had a better job hehe. i'd be building alot of things. DAMN MONEY!! i need to find another dude who can jack things for me and only expect food in return hehe!! :lol:

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Hell, I'd do it for food. Too bad your not local.

 

The thing with putting a skimmer in the rear chambers, is it would restrict flow. I've got over 300 GPH going back through there. Putting a skimmer back there would interrupt/restrict flow too much. I'm pretty sure it would run the Mag 5 dry. Besides, it's an OG. That means there are 4 really small chambers, not 3, like on the newer DX's. Those skinny chambers make any pump or DIY skimmer a water barrier.

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mybuickskill6979

true that would suck. oh snap lol i thought this was another thread thats why i mentioned the bottom glass lol!! err (i feel stupid now :unsure::blink:) but yeah for sure too many holes isn't a good thing lol!!

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Reefone, thanks for the compliment!

 

This was all theory on my part, but I was worried about the intense heat of the bulb so close to the canopy. I figured, with just the reflector, massive amounts of heat would be transferred through it. Even with all those fans, since the bulb would be mounted directly to it.

 

So, my thought was, use another piece of metal with alot of holes, and air space between. The air space, coupled with the holes provides a ton of dissipation.

 

To provide the air space, I needed something thin, but not too thin. I used washers, super glued to the heat shield, to provide a gap between the heat shield and the reflector. There was already a gap in the canopy, since the screws are in raise mounts. The fans are mounted so they draw a small amount of air through this area.

 

I figured that I'd want the majority of the air drawn out through the sides. I didn't want any heat buildup near the top. So, using the CFM rating provided by the fans. I devised a plan that would allow maximum air out, versus air in. I'm about 15 CFM higher air out. This draws 15 CFM of cool air through the vent at the top, cooling the canopy and heat shield.

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Ray Whisperer that tank looks Great but not the best tank I have herd of, I know this guy who ran a model train right through the center of his tank and to top it all off the engine would actually smoke right up through the water. Talk about going postal this guy had all sorts of mad skills. Some day you to will be as good as this half million gallon tank certified builder. But your tank does look killer for a first timer.

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LMAO!

Thanks Lord Damsel!

I wish I could have been there to see that!

Did he build tanks for Petco? If so, I think I heard of him......

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Oh, trying to horn in on Mr. Fosi's glory, are we?????

;)

Yes Travis, you did, and I'll thank you now.... Thank You Travis!

Just be aware, Fosi spent about a week helping me. (Yes, I know, I'm not too bright...... But my tank is!)

lol ray :huh:

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Hello Mad Doc. You are sick! ;)

 

Seriously! I have toyed with this idea, being a M/H sicko.

 

My idea was a hood scoop. Hole in the center of the top over the MH light. Scoop going towards the back with a fan in the end of the scoop. Reverse the stock fans forcing air into the top and pulling out throught the scoop fan. What do you think?

 

I have freind that does fiberglass he could pull a mold of the top and form a scoop.

 

By the way you stole my idea for the temperade glass application. :P just kidding but you are right on for that application.

 

Have fun!

 

Dean

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Do it Dean! I think it'll work, but you might need a bit more airflow.... Higher CFM fans instead of stock, plus maybe 2 more.... I didn't need as many as I installed, I could have cut out two or four 30 mm fans. It would have run a bit hotter, but I think it still would have held.

 

Another thing I would change, if I were to do it all over again.... I would have used a different reflector. The stock reflector limits the amount of light getting to the back of the tank, and behind the rock it's almost too dark. I think a reflector shaped like this---->), only flipped down.... I hope you know what I mean.....Ahhhhh, a domed reflector, without any right angles. I hope that's better.... Something like that would have broadcast the light more evenly.

 

As for the tempered glass, those kudos goto Shao-lin nano. He originally tried this idea in a NC 6. That's what got me going on this tank. I had been toying with the idea for along time, but couldn't figure how I would lose all that heat. He came up with the vent, and since he used regular glass(it cracked), he suggested tempered. I was still a bit unsure, but after some research, I found tempered can withstand around 400 deg F.

 

Hope that helps you some. Thanks for the compliments too.

 

OOOOOO, this is post # 69!

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Do it Dean! I think it'll work, but you might need a bit more airflow.... Higher CFM fans instead of stock, plus maybe 2 more.... I didn't need as many as I installed, I could have cut out two or four 30 mm fans. It would have run a bit hotter, but I think it still would have held.

 

Another thing I would change, if I were to do it all over again.... I would have used a different reflector. The stock reflector limits the amount of light getting to the back of the tank, and behind the rock it's almost too dark. I think a reflector shaped like this---->), only flipped down.... I hope you know what I mean.....Ahhhhh, a domed reflector, without any right angles. I hope that's better.... Something like that would have broadcast the light more evenly.

 

As for the tempered glass, those kudos goto Shao-lin nano. He originally tried this idea in a NC 6. That's what got me going on this tank. I had been toying with the idea for along time, but couldn't figure how I would lose all that heat. He came up with the vent, and since he used regular glass(it cracked), he suggested tempered. I was still a bit unsure, but after some research, I found tempered can withstand around 400 deg F.

 

Hope that helps you some. Thanks for the compliments too.

 

OOOOOO, this is post # 69!

 

Just got my BC29 and haven't even got wet yet so it may be a while before I get to the MH project. I may just wimp out and do the duel 70's when they come out. I though I would throw the scoop idea out there for those lurking with sick minds like yours and mine. B) Could call the mod the John Force mod. 0 to 150 in a hot second.

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Is nanotuners gonna do a dual 70 for the BC's too? Or are you gonna do it yourself? Either way, that's a cool mod.

 

I've been tinkering with the idea of a 250 HQI in a NC 24.... I just don't have the coin to drop on this kind of mod now. Maybe next year.

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Is nanotuners gonna do a dual 70 for the BC's too? Or are you gonna do it yourself? Either way, that's a cool mod.

 

I've been tinkering with the idea of a 250 HQI in a NC 24.... I just don't have the coin to drop on this kind of mod now. Maybe next year.

 

I heard you on the cash end of things. People ask me all the time is it true keeping marine fish harder then FW. I say heck no as long as you have a bunch of extra money to burn.

 

I thouht I read in another post on here nanotuners is working on a dual 70 DE's for the BC29.

 

Before I purchased this tank I was going to buy a AG 16 bowfront and put a 250w Odyssea over it and some little sunglass for the fish. But like I said in my other post. Having this tank in a public office I figured it was to much over kill. Besides I woudn't be able keep up with the evaporation being gone over the weekend.

I was in the local Petco today and they had a cool AG Cube 16x16 I think 20h raterd 20 gal. Never see one before. I think if I had see that before I got my BC I would of went for it. Tank and stand $200

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question, can u list what u did for the wires, how did u link all those fans together with one or two power cords, i am trying to do the same for my tank. Also what fans diffrent types of fans did u use.

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question, can u list what u did for the wires, how did u link all those fans together with one or two power cords, i am trying to do the same for my tank. Also what fans diffrent types of fans did u use.
Sure can....

Fans; I will list them from front to back, both sides. So, everything will be double.

Front set;

30 mm

40 mm

40 mm

The sets on each side are wired together. All I did was cut the molex connectors off each fan. I left all the molex with about an inch of wire on them. I then matched the wires, red to red, and black to black. Using wire nuts and electrical tape, I tied all three fans to one male (I think) molex connector.

 

With me so far? Now I've got one bank of three fans on each side, and one molex on each side...

 

Back set;

30 mm

30 mm

Here I did the same as above. Tying each bank of two fans to one molex.

 

Still with me? Now I've got two banks of fans (one with three and one with two fans respectively), and two molex per side.

 

Intake fans; These are those two CPU fans located where the stock fans originally were. I'm not sure the size or make, but they were just listed as CPU fans, so I think they are all one size.

These two, I just connected with the molex connectors. I didn't cut anything.

 

Now, using all the female (I think) molex I cut off the aforementioned fans.... I took wire nuts and electrical tape, and connected them to the wires of the stock ballast cord. Here is where I might lose you, so I'll try to be as clear as possible. Each ballast cord has five individual wires in it. All are color coded, but I don't remember the individual colors. For this description I'll use white, black, red, green, and blue.

I took the black and white wires, and tied them to the red and black wires of one of the female (I think) molex. I did the same with the blue and green wires. This left me with one Red wire off each ballast cord. Making note of which red wire was from which cord, I tied these two wires to on molex as well.

 

I then cut the quick connects off the other end of the stock ballast cords, and exposed the wires. Matching the colors I used above, I used wire nuts and electrical tape. I connected them to five male (I think) molex connectors. Each one of these molex was the power cord for one set of fans.

 

Then I connected them to the four bank fan controller. So, bank one is connected to the front right set of three fans. Bank two is connected to the front left set of three fans. Bank three is connected to the back right set of two fans. And, bank four is connected to the back left set of two fans. That last set of two red wires powers the CPU fans. I connected these directly to the power supply. I figured I would want as much air as possible, blowing on the halide bulb.

 

NOTE: I don not remember if I used male or female connectors at any given point. I used the molex connectors from the computer power supply, and worked my way up to the canopy from there. I put the respective molex (male or female) for each step into a labeled ziplock bag to avoid confusion. That way, as I worked, I just grabbed the bag labeled for the point I was at....

 

I hope you can figure it out from this. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pics of this part of the job. I didn't think anyone would be interested, and I was in a bit of a rush. I had been working on this project so long, I just wanted to get it done.

 

 

Oh, I also think I was short a few molex connectors. I just used ones taken from the computer I garbage picked for the power supply.

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