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LED DIY BUILD – plug & play and open source join forces


jfarabaugh

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I don't know about anyone else but 95% percent of DIY instructions out there are lacking. They always seems to be missing some important piece of information or the right pictures. My goal was to find highly functional plug and play hardware and combine it with open source software (krusduino) that can used to make building LED lighting for nanoreefs easier. Turns out I had to have some items custom made (but should available for all to purchase now or very soon) so I joined forces with Mark Chester (Koyaanisqatsi) from chestersgarage.com to build me a board and used his all ready available power shield. There is some assembly involved still and you still have to solder wires to the LEDs. But as far as auto diming, channel mixing/blending, temperature monitoring (LEDS temp) and fan control that is all done. No more thinking about how to dim your LEDS, how to power fans, etc. Did I mention everything runs off ONE POWER SUPPLY!

This is just some teaser pictures and info. Look forward to an extremely detailed build in the weeks to follow.

 

IMG_5333.JPG

 

IMG_5334.JPG

 

IMG_5335.JPG

 

 

So the 10000K LEDs came in today so I put together a quick (very quick) rig and took some pictures. Keep in mind the color and the overall difference in color can be skewed by your monitor. Everything here is running off of 2 AAs. Big thanks to Steve from http://stevesleds.com/ in getting these out to me so quick. Let me know what other combos you want to see with these 3 different LEDs

 

10000k

10000K_1.JPG

Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White

Cree_CW_1.JPG

10000k & Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White

Cree_CW_10000k_1.JPG

10000k & Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White

Cree_CW_10000k_4.JPG

10000k & Cree XR-E RB

10000K_Cree_RB_1.JPG

Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White & Cree XR-E RB

Cree_CW_Cree_RB_1.JPG

10000k & Cree XR-E RB & Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White

All_Three_1.JPG

10000k & Cree XR-E RB & Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White

All_Three_4.JPG

10000k & Cree XR-E RB & Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White

All_Three_Over.JPG

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Very interesting.

 

I was actually looking for something to control dimming during the day. Would this accomdate that feature?

 

How customizable is this compared to say ReefKeeper, can additions be requested for those of us purchasing this device? Will it be compatible with say the meanwells, or multiple meanwells?

 

How much are we looking at here for features and specializations?

 

I am looking forward to seeing some design samples and more features that are available.

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Because this is based on the Arduino platform you can add more boards (shields) to do just about whatever you like. 0-10V signal out, PH probes, etc are some examples.

 

The unit you’re looking at is around $250 BUT it does a lot of really cool stuff and makes things pretty simple. My price is most likely higher as it has design, and test cost with it. I can't say what the final mass production price of the custom board I had built would be. This cost is running 4 pucks which is anywhere from 80 to 100 just for them. You also have to put in perspective that this controls and drives everything....fans and all.

 

You can even simulate cloud movement over your tank with this.

 

Diming is all controlled by the software (drop krusduino in google). Power range is broke down between 1 and 255. 1 would be used for moon lights, 255 is full power, 0 is off. So you have a very wide range in-between.

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ok so this is basically what i want in a light controller.

 

Clouds is a big plus, but isnt necessarily needed.

 

An ability that would allow me to set when the white LEDs come on and go off, increase in intensity throughout the day, then dim as the day wears on, basically simulate dusk and dawn.

 

The temp isnt really a big issue with me, but to control fan speed when say a temp probe attached to my heatsink reads a certain temp fans kick into overdrive to help cool down further.

 

Thats really all i would want in the light controller.

 

Would you have some units that come with less features and more features?

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When I say autodim I really mean the ability to do dusk and dawn.

 

There are actually 4 different boards in that cluster. 1 arduino board, 1 LCD board and 2 are from chestergarage. If you just want LED control you would eliminate the proto shield from chestergarage and just use the power shield but would still need a Real Time Clock (RTC) in order to perform dusk and dawn. Talk to mark over at chestergarage for options.

 

I am using the power shield (LED Driver) and the proto shield (custom item I had built which has the RTC, Fan control, and temp sensor)

 

The real flexibility is in the software as the hardware selection was based on the ability to plug components together and not have to think about it.

 

I am not actually selling these items just putting together an easier way with a complete guide for people to follow. I will be listing out where all the parts can be purchased as I work on the build and the guide.

 

This whole idea was loosely based on http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=206246 but that project required a lot of work and a lot EE knowledge. I wanted to finally put something together for everyone to build with little knowledge.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So the 10000K LEDs came in today so I put together a quick (very quick) rig and took some pictures. Keep in mind the color and the overall difference in color can be skewed by your monitor. Everything here is running off of 2 AAs. Big thanks to Steve from http://stevesleds.com/ in getting these out to me so quick. Let me know what other combos you want to see with these 3 different LEDs

 

10000k

10000K_1.JPG

Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White

Cree_CW_1.JPG

10000k & Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White

Cree_CW_10000k_1.JPG

10000k & Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White

Cree_CW_10000k_4.JPG

10000k & Cree XR-E RB

10000K_Cree_RB_1.JPG

Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White & Cree XR-E RB

Cree_CW_Cree_RB_1.JPG

10000k & Cree XR-E RB & Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White

All_Three_1.JPG

10000k & Cree XR-E RB & Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White

All_Three_4.JPG

10000k & Cree XR-E RB & Cree XR-E Q5 Cool White

All_Three_Over.JPG

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Hey!

 

Great thread! I went over to Chester's Garage website and the

spec's for the buck puck shield indicate that 7 leds can be run

per buck puck. I thought the conventional wisdom around here

was 6 per buck. Is that an advantage of the shield or was the 6

recommendation just a bit conservative?

 

Following along!!

 

 

 

DougN

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Koyaanisqatsi

The limitation of 6 LEDs is based on using a 24V power supply and white or blue LEDs. If you use 28V or 30V, you can drive more LEDs. It depends on the power supply voltage, the color of the LEDs and the current you drive them at. Red, for example runs at 2-point-something volts. But blue and white run at 3-point-something volts. So you can put more red LEDs in a string than blues or whites. Also, the voltage drop on a Cree XP-E white LED, for example, is 3.2 volts at 350mA but 3.5 volts at 1000mA. So the harder you drive them, the fewer you can put in the string.

 

The 24V power supply is nice because it's a standard value that works with a lot of things and you can put two 12V fans in series connected to a 24V supply. If you don't need that convenience, you can run a higher voltage power supply (up to 32V absolute max) and thus more LEDs in the string.

 

In theory (and I have not tested this) you can run 9 white or blue XP-E LEDs, or 13 red per string at 350mA on a 32V power supply. Incidentally, I've tried twice this week to get an answer out of LuxDrive on whether the BuckPucks can withstand a constant, full 32V power supply voltage. But no answer so far.

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In theory (and I have not tested this) you can run 9 white or blue XP-E LEDs, or 13 red per string at 350mA on a 32V power supply. Incidentally, I've tried twice this week to get an answer out of LuxDrive on whether the BuckPucks can withstand a constant, full 32V power supply voltage. But no answer so far.

 

Thanks for the info Mark. Let us know if you hear back from LuxDrive

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do not run any more than 6 leds per buckpuck, its not only a 24w max power thing but also some other magic, people blow buckpucks at over 6 leds

 

JF, thanks for the pics

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Koyaanisqatsi

OK, this one bugged me because the spec sheets indicate otherwise. So I called LuxDrive...

 

LuxDrive recommends a maximum of 6 LEDs due to the amount of heat compared to the size of the BuckPucks. Any more LEDs than that and you risk overheating the BuckPuck.

 

They can handle input voltages up to 32V continuously. However, it runs the device hotter. The worst case scenario is 32V input and one LED, because the BuckPucks become less efficient with greater difference between the input and output voltages.

 

The best case scenario is an input voltage that is as close to 2V more than the LED load as possible. So the 24V/6 LED configuration maximizes the BuckPuck without pushing it into the danger zone for heat.

 

In all cases, lower LED drive current is easier on the BuckPucks and can sometimes allow you to push other limits.

 

It really frustrates me that BuckPucks can't be run near maximum specs without damage and there isn't anything in the spec sheet that explains this!

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What company makes the 10k LEDS?

Sorry but I do not have that info. All Steve from Steves LEDs said is that it is a manufacture from China

 

Maybe it is semiLED....who knows.

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Great info, just a couple of questions:

 

Does steves has those 10K leds? there is no info on his pages about them.

 

Can you elaborate more on the color and intensity you see between the 10K an crees? the pictures are good but can't really see differences.

 

thks

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Great info, just a couple of questions:

 

Does steves has those 10K leds? there is no info on his pages about them.

 

Can you elaborate more on the color and intensity you see between the 10K an crees? the pictures are good but can't really see differences.

 

thks

 

Yes Steve has them but I had to email him to find out about them. There is a clear difference when comparing the first 2 pictures being the 10000k and the Crees in color temp. 10000k are more white/blue where the Crees are more white/yellow. As comparing the brightness between the 2 they both seem the same with my naked eye when hooked up to 2 AAs. Once they are wired up on the drivers I will take some more pictures.

 

The specs on the 10000K that I got from Steve is 3W 3.5v 750mA so that is what I will be driving them out.

 

Right now I am planning on running

 

6, 10000ks

6, Cree CW

6, Cree RB

6, Cree B

 

This may change once I get it put together if I cannot get the color I want out of it. I think this may be a first as far as DIY LED builds are concerned

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i love my leds but if i had to do it all over again i would get the neutral white or even warm white leds. they have more red in the spectrum and i think it looks more natural. looking forward to the parts list and code. tagging along!

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I changed these colors again after about 4 hours of reading last night.....ordered some cyan and NW.

 

As of this minute I am thinking of breaking down the following

 

4 Cree CW

4 Cree NW

4 10000k

 

3 cyan

5 Cree Blue (May replace one of these with a Red)

4 Cree Royal Blue (looking at the graphs for both the CW and NW they seem to cover this area very well already)

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OK, this one bugged me because the spec sheets indicate otherwise. So I called LuxDrive...

 

LuxDrive recommends a maximum of 6 LEDs due to the amount of heat compared to the size of the BuckPucks. Any more LEDs than that and you risk overheating the BuckPuck.

 

They can handle input voltages up to 32V continuously. However, it runs the device hotter. The worst case scenario is 32V input and one LED, because the BuckPucks become less efficient with greater difference between the input and output voltages.

 

The best case scenario is an input voltage that is as close to 2V more than the LED load as possible. So the 24V/6 LED configuration maximizes the BuckPuck without pushing it into the danger zone for heat.

 

In all cases, lower LED drive current is easier on the BuckPucks and can sometimes allow you to push other limits.

 

It really frustrates me that BuckPucks can't be run near maximum specs without damage and there isn't anything in the spec sheet that explains this!

 

This has been common knowledge on the Buckpucks for some time now. It's also common knowledge that the datasheet is horribly inaccurate. There are a number of other glaring issues in there that I won't get into right now, but as a general rule of thumb, Buckpucks should be considered as follows:

 

- 1-6 LEDs

- Up to 32v input DC, but 24v is recommended

- No more than 5v input for dimming (they claim up to 10v)

- 1000mA units HAVE to be ventilated

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Koyaanisqatsi
This has been common knowledge on the Buckpucks for some time now. It's also common knowledge that the datasheet is horribly inaccurate. There are a number of other glaring issues in there that I won't get into right now, but as a general rule of thumb, Buckpucks should be considered as follows:

 

- 1-6 LEDs

- Up to 32v input DC, but 24v is recommended

- No more than 5v input for dimming (they claim up to 10v)

- 1000mA units HAVE to be ventilated

 

Cool. I'm not sure I'd call it common knowledge as there are people asking about it. And I had to call LuxDrive to find out for myself.

 

I'm interested in the "other glaring issues" if you have a moment to PM me on it. Thanks!

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