BC14 LED Setup

[dhraakoxr]

Hey I have all my equipment together to make this happen but I am currently trying to finalize what configuration I'm going to use.

 

I wanted to have more blue/royal blue up near the front of the tank where my zoos and rics are located (option B ) but I am not to sure if I should try to get more white up there as well. Since this is a BC14 the area is rather small so either option may work. Please tell me what you all think.

 

I went for a 2:1 ratio between blue wavelength LEDs and Whites:

 

 

 

ADDITION:

 

Cost breakdown:

 

Royal Blue CREE LEDs (5): $42.30

Blue CREE LEDs (5): $42.30

CREE Q5 LEDs (5): $50.00

BuckPucks (1000/750): $45.00

HeatSink: $28.00

Wire: $20.00

Heat Shrink: $4.00 x 3 = $12.00

Switch: $8.00 x 2 = $16.00

Flux: $9.00

Flux Remover: $9.00

Fans: $12 x 2 = $24.00

Thermal Adhesive: $20.00

Egg Crate: $5.00

 

I had everything else like the soldering iron, solder etc.

 

Total cost in CAD without shipping for a few items: $322.60CAD

 

Obviously I have nice round numbers listed so there may be a few dollars variance. I did not include shipping since anyone in the states would likely get much cheaper shipping.

[evilc66]

I would use option B, but hold off on using so many UV LEDs until I can get a good feel for what our true UV requirements are. I don't know if that many UV LEDs would be too much (probably not).

[dhraakoxr]

I would use option B, but hold off on using so many UV LEDs until I can get a good feel for what our true UV requirements are. I don't know if that many UV LEDs would be too much (probably not).

 

Sorry, I didn't say what I was using for LEDs:

 

X5 Cree Whites X 5

Cree Blue X 5

Cree Royal Blue X 5

[evilc66]

So the purple dots are the blues or the royal blue? Also, what is your reasoning for using both types of blue?

[dhraakoxr]

Yeah the purple is royal blue and the blue is well blue

 

I wanted to be able to excite my corals over the largest range possible and I figured the best way to get the broadest excitation range was to go for both blues. Whether or not it was worth while I will not know until it is all setup.

 

I went with the 2:1 ratio because of someones zoo tank I saw on some forum that had a 2:1 ratio and the coloration was amazing. I realize there is more to coral colour than lights alone but I also know that PC lighting will not get me what I want.

 

SO long story short I needed a project and this seemed like a gooder

[evilc66]

It's a good project thats for sure.

 

Some things to ponder:

 

1. Royal blues will cover most of the fluorescing colors. The blues and royals overlap quite heavily in their spectral output and probably won't give you much of an advantage. Cyan would be better if you want to hit some more greens and yellows.

 

2. 1:1 mix is a little easier to blend than a 2:1 mix. You can still get your 20K color temp by using the dimming feature on the drivers if thats what you are looking for.

 

3. For a BC14, you can easily get away with 12 LEDs and still have great performance and coverage. This could save you a bunch of money on LEDs and drivers.

[dhraakoxr]

LEDs all setup and ready to be mounted. I opted to use arctic silver glue to get a nice thermal conductive bond to the heatsink:

[Waterproof]

I've seen several LED threads using UV LEDs, but I recall reading a thread that indicated UV light is largely blocked by glass and acrylic. Some people have used them in a biocube or similar setup, in which an acrylic splashguard is between the LEDs and water. If, in fact, acrylic filters out the majority of UV light, wouldn't this limit the usefulness of UV LEDs in a closed top setup?

[dhraakoxr]

I've seen several LED threads using UV LEDs, but I recall reading a thread that indicated UV light is largely blocked by glass and acrylic. Some people have used them in a biocube or similar setup, in which an acrylic splashguard is between the LEDs and water. If, in fact, acrylic filters out the majority of UV light, wouldn't this limit the usefulness of UV LEDs in a closed top setup?

 

hah not sure, I have no UV LEDs setup though so I won't have to worry about it. I may one day get a few but not for the time being.

[Waterproof]

hah not sure, I have no UV LEDs setup though so I won't have to worry about it. I may one day get a few but not for the time being.

 

True, I just saw the discussion above and have been meaning to ask the question. Maybe evil can chime in w/ his expertise!

 

Good luck w/ the project!

[Maddevil1]

LEDs all setup and ready to be mounted. I opted to use arctic silver glue to get a nice thermal conductive bond to the heatsink:

 

 

What is the size of your heatsink?

[evilc66]

True, I just saw the discussion above and have been meaning to ask the question. Maybe evil can chime in w/ his expertise!

 

Good luck w/ the project!

 

UV-B and UV-C are almost entirely blocked by glass, but not UV-A which is what we are dealing with. If I remember, it's only blocked by about 25%. Either way, we are dealing with 410nm LEDs which are still technically in the visible light spectrum.

[dhraakoxr]

It's a good project thats for sure.

 

Some things to ponder:

 

1. Royal blues will cover most of the fluorescing colors. The blues and royals overlap quite heavily in their spectral output and probably won't give you much of an advantage. Cyan would be better if you want to hit some more greens and yellows.

 

2. 1:1 mix is a little easier to blend than a 2:1 mix. You can still get your 20K color temp by using the dimming feature on the drivers if thats what you are looking for.

 

3. For a BC14, you can easily get away with 12 LEDs and still have great performance and coverage. This could save you a bunch of money on LEDs and drivers.

 

Thanks for the input!

 

For the drivers I have one 1000mA buckpuck for the 5 whites and a 700mA for the blues. The blues will be in parallel so they'll be dropping 350 per string. I am not so sure this will be enough and I may end up changing my design and getting another 700 for each string of blues. I will see how it looks when all is said and done.

 

Am I correct in my assumption that if I run the whites at 1000mA they will be outputting closer to 20k than the base rated 6.5k? I got this impression from the data sheet that is on LEDsupply's site.

 

Maddevil: For the question about the heatsink: It is a foot by 7.5ish inches.

 

For my fans I bought a separate wall wart which I've already wired up:

 

 

 

 

 

Random pic on how the main power is going to be hooked up:

 

 

 

I had a few spare computer connectors that I used so I can easily disconnect the power supplies if need be. I need to buy larger heat shrink tomorrow to finish some stuff off and I'll likely get some split loom to make everything prettier.

 

Ohh yeah and for some stupid reason I bought white wire instead of black .. didn't notice until it was to late (to take it back)

[Muggz]

dhraakoxr,

Looks like a great retrofit. If you don't mind me asking, what is your budget on a project like this? I'm interested in doing something similar for my BC8.

[evilc66]

Double the LEDs will not make up for half the current. You will lose a lot of potential performance from running the blues at 350mA. 90% of us are running all the LEDs at 1000mA. They are more than capable of being run at that current and will really up the PAR. This is one reason why I mentioned that you can get away with just using 12 LEDs. It's very easy to hit 200+ PAR at the sandbed in a BC14 with only 12 LEDs, and most have to turn them down to a more practical level for the inhabitants. 15 LEDs would yeild a little higher performance, but if you are going to have to turn it down anyway, why not save a few bucks.

 

The color temperature of the cool white LEDs will not change with changes in current. The only way to get higher than 6500K is to order it that way. Changing the current will only change the intensity.

[dhraakoxr]

dhraakoxr,

Looks like a great retrofit. If you don't mind me asking, what is your budget on a project like this? I'm interested in doing something similar for my BC8.

 

Well I wasn't so concerned with the cost so it hasn't been super cheap. I'll break it down when everything is said and done.

 

But I do believe it will cost in the ball park of 350+-20 USD.

 

Double the LEDs will not make up for half the current. You will lose a lot of potential performance from running the blues at 350mA. 90% of us are running all the LEDs at 1000mA. They are more than capable of being run at that current and will really up the PAR. This is one reason why I mentioned that you can get away with just using 12 LEDs. It's very easy to hit 200+ PAR at the sandbed in a BC14 with only 12 LEDs, and most have to turn them down to a more practical level for the inhabitants. 15 LEDs would yeild a little higher performance, but if you are going to have to turn it down anyway, why not save a few bucks.

 

The color temperature of the cool white LEDs will not change with changes in current. The only way to get higher than 6500K is to order it that way. Changing the current will only change the intensity.

 

Damn on the whites .. I wanted at least 10k but I suppose I missed that somewhere haha. Ahh well .. as for the blues once this is all hooked up and setup I'll check into it and likely order another 700, but for the time being this will have to do.

 

Thanks for all your input

[Muggz]

Thanks, dhraakoxr. I just wanted an idea of how realistic it might be for me to do that. Sounds reasonable.

[dhraakoxr]

Thanks, dhraakoxr. I just wanted an idea of how realistic it might be for me to do that. Sounds reasonable.

 

Actually I think I totally over estimated .. but I didn't have to buy the power supplies as I got a few older laptop power supplies for free. So yeah I guess 350 would be fair if I had bought power supplies.

 

I am Canadian like yourself so shipping was a little brutal for some stuff .. I figure if you could get out of buying stuff from the States you'd be better off for shipping.

[dhraakoxr]

hazza the LEDs are stuck unto the heatsink now.

 

Thanks for the eggcrate n book idea evil.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I finished soldering up the power side of the connector now I just need to hook the buckpuck up and solder those LEDs.

[evilc66]

Worked out pretty well didn't it.

[djprofd]

regarding his color temp, didn't i read somewhere that the color temp LEDS is not as much a factor as in other sources of light? And that by tuning the pots on the whites and blues, you could effectively alter the "look" (to human eyes) of your tank as regards to color temp without actually changing it?

 

Or is that totally wrong.

 

d.

[mg4015]

while the color temp of the led output doesnt change, dimming the whites (lowering their ammount of output) and brightening the blues (output increase) will appear to create a dramatic difference in k.

 

is that egg crate squares to press the leds to the heatsink? debating on whether to screw mine down or epoxy. also, how much epoxy did you put uder each star? im a total noob looking to retro my aquapod 24, and i am just about to order parts. thanks!

[dhraakoxr]

Worked out pretty well didn't it.

 

Worked damn well

 

while the color temp of the led output doesnt change, dimming the whites (lowering their ammount of output) and brightening the blues (output increase) will appear to create a dramatic difference in k.

 

is that egg crate squares to press the leds to the heatsink? debating on whether to screw mine down or epoxy. also, how much epoxy did you put uder each star? im a total noob looking to retro my aquapod 24, and i am just about to order parts. thanks!

 

thanks for the input on the color "look" appreciate it.

 

And yes the egg crate (via Evil's idea) is used to press the LEDs on the heatsink. You just simply carefully place a book on top and leave them for an hours or so and bingo you have pressed LEDs.

 

As for the amount well you really don't need much. I found I put a little to much on when I thought I was putting on too little so that gives you an idea. Just like a small pea in the center of the LED smeared around would likely suffice.

[dhraakoxr]

We have ignition.

 

Whites dimmed:

 

 

 

Whites full bright:

 

 

 

This was all just hashed together to make sure everything worked which is did. Now I can clean it all up, get things finalized and maybe throw it all into the hood.

 

I'm thinking I'll be buying myself another 700mA buckpuck to power each blue string by itself. Not really sure what I was thinking in the first place but meh

 

Kind of neat how you can see the difference between the blue and the royal blue.

[johnamon]

while the color temp of the led output doesnt change, dimming the whites (lowering their ammount of output) and brightening the blues (output increase) will appear to create a dramatic difference in k.

 

is that egg crate squares to press the leds to the heatsink? debating on whether to screw mine down or epoxy. also, how much epoxy did you put uder each star? im a total noob looking to retro my aquapod 24, and i am just about to order parts. thanks!

 

I just drilled and tapped my heatsink this week. The beauty of tapping threads into the heatsink is that you can change the led arrangment / layout as you wish without having epoxy remnents where old LED's used to be.

 

A small problem with tapping the aluminium with such small threads (in my case an M3 thread) is that the aluminium can yeild very easily and you can strip your newly created threads very easily. In this case i just poked a small amount of JD Weld in the hole, and gently hammered the screw in.....

 

Drilling and tapping is 100x more work, but the result is very very nice indeed, a professional job just like if you had bought the unit