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New Biocube 29


crinus

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Since April 2008 I've been running 125G Indo-Pacific community tank at a university. It was my first introduction to aquaria, and now I'm addicted. I've really wanted to install a tank at home, and I finally bit on a used 29 gallon BioCube (it was used for freshwater fish for 6 months). I know just enough about aquaria to be dangerous, so I thought I'd better request some advice.

 

Right now, the tank is sitting in my home office, the live rock (28 lbs) is in a tub of warm, circulating saltwater, and I'm eager to plug it in (after I install a GFCI).

 

Mostly, I'd like to include a diversity of zoanthids, LPS, ornamental arthropods, 1 or 2 clams, and several echinoderms. I prefer unusual inverts, but I'm sure that I'll add 2-3 fish as well.

 

I'm not currently interested in upgrading the lighting. My biggest questions relate to filtration and what I should do with the 3 chambers in the back of the BioCube. I've already removed the bioballs from chamber 2 and added a CPR SR3 skimmer, but after looking at several of the posts here, I was wondering if I shouldn't have installed instead SteveT's custom media rack, etc (I could still return the SR3).

 

If I stick with the SR3, should I still try to add some sort of media to the system? If so, what type should I add, and can I make it work in chambers 1 or 3?

 

In chamber 1, there is a plastic "vent" about 1/2 way down the chamber. What is this for? Should I remove it? I've read that several people have placed their heater in this chamber. Does anyone have a recommendation on a good heater to purchase for this tank?

 

Any suggestion for modifying/adding to chamber 3? Is the sponge filter or "micro-bubble diffuser" worth keeping there or should I replace it with something else?

 

I received with the tank with about 15 stock BioCube filters that separate chambers 1 and 2--do these provide adequate filtration or are they a joke?

 

I've also considered adding an HOB AquaFuge refugium, but because of cost and size I'd rather avoid this (I'd prefer the tank to be flush against the wall). However, if it would significantly increase the stability of the system, I'd probably do it.

 

Another question relates to in-tank circulation. On the university 125G, we run two Koralia 3's on a ReefKeeper that alternate on/off every 6 mins. I'm very tempted to hook up two Koralia nano's or Koralia 1's to an ocean pulse wavemaker and have them generate alternating flow. Does anyone have experience with this in a nano? Is it helpful, or is it just overkill? Honestly, I've actually considered setting up a K1 in front of chamber 1 and a K-nano in front of chamber 3 to vary both the intensity and direction of flow.

 

Maybe I'm just thinking about this too much, but I suppose that's the nature of addictions!

 

I realize that there are several "right ways" to set up/modify a tank, but I'd appreciate any advice that you could offer.

 

Thanks very much.

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In for answers.

 

I just set up my tank (bought used as well)

 

Currently tank is cycling.

 

20# LS

30# LR (10 base 20 High Quality rock)

 

Chamber 1 - took out that false floor - put heater there, It came with a NEW stock carbon filter - threw it in there too just to get rid of it. (Ill trash it after cycle)

 

Chamber 2 - Took out the false floor - filled the 1/2 the chamber with filter floss

 

Chamber 3 - took out the stock sponge - it was used and gross. I took some MORE filter floss , but it into a small nylon media back and put it in place of the sponge - i figured this would prevent debris getting ito chamber 3 and jamming the stock pump (and also dissapate bubbles).

 

I have chemipure elite - not sure if i should ptu it in now or after the cycle.

 

I have no idea what route to go with for filtration - rack? skimmer? fuge? HOB fuge?

arrhhhgg, so much to read, very little time :/

 

Hoping someone comes in and helps :D

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Hi Lilcheen,

 

Thanks for your reply. It sounds like we're in the same boat--wondering what to do about filtration. I plan to start cycling my tank tonight or tomorrow. What is the wattage of your heater. I purchased a 200W and was wondering if that was overkill. I thought I'd go a little big because the room that I'm keeping it can get pretty cold.

 

Did you find the false floor in chamber 1 to be difficult to remove? It seems that I'm going to have to be pretty aggressive with it if I'm going to get it out. It's in there pretty tight.

 

Good luck with your tank, and I also hope that we can get some more advice on modifying our chambers for filtration. Once you cycle your tank, are you going to remove the stock carbon filter for the BioCube permanently? If so, what are you going to put in its place (if anything)? Do you plan on putting a phosphate remover/activated carbon elsewhere in the system?

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Hi Lilcheen,

 

Thanks for your reply. It sounds like we're in the same boat--wondering what to do about filtration. I plan to start cycling my tank tonight or tomorrow. What is the wattage of your heater. I purchased a 200W and was wondering if that was overkill. I thought I'd go a little big because the room that I'm keeping it can get pretty cold.

 

Did you find the false floor in chamber 1 to be difficult to remove? It seems that I'm going to have to be pretty aggressive with it if I'm going to get it out. It's in there pretty tight.

 

Good luck with your tank, and I also hope that we can get some more advice on modifying our chambers for filtration. Once you cycle your tank, are you going to remove the stock carbon filter for the BioCube permanently? If so, what are you going to put in its place (if anything)? Do you plan on putting a phosphate remover/activated carbon elsewhere in the system?

 

My heater is 50w - not sure if its enough as my house is 73- Tank is at 76 . I am planning on getting the MJ1200 so I'm going to wait to see if that adds any heat to my tank.

 

Chamber one - I took the back of a screwdriver and pressed on a corner of the floor - it will take a little force but give slow and even pressure untill it moves - the floor is held by silicone - it will give don't worry.

 

Once cycled I will remove the stock filter and throw in Chemi-Pure Elite.

I bought my tank used and it came with a biocube skimmer - I put it in tonight also in Chamber 1 - i hear it's crap - lets see what it pulls!

 

I'm probably gonna start a BC29 log thread sometime tomorrow.....

 

Chamber 2 filtration ideas

 

1) media rack with filter floss and chemi-pure and purigen

2) fuge with cheato, purigen and chemipure in chamber 1 & 3

3) Skimmer plus some cheato ?

3) HOB Refuge (not really interested in this idea )

 

what else is there?

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Since April 2008 I've been running 125G Indo-Pacific community tank at a university. It was my first introduction to aquaria, and now I'm addicted. I've really wanted to install a tank at home, and I finally bit on a used 29 gallon BioCube (it was used for freshwater fish for 6 months). I know just enough about aquaria to be dangerous, so I thought I'd better request some advice.

 

Right now, the tank is sitting in my home office, the live rock (28 lbs) is in a tub of warm, circulating saltwater, and I'm eager to plug it in (after I install a GFCI).

 

Mostly, I'd like to include a diversity of zoanthids, LPS, ornamental arthropods, 1 or 2 clams, and several echinoderms. I prefer unusual inverts, but I'm sure that I'll add 2-3 fish as well.

 

I'm not currently interested in upgrading the lighting. If you want to keep clams you will need to upgrade the lighting. Stock lights will not serve them well long term. My biggest questions relate to filtration and what I should do with the 3 chambers in the back of the BioCube. I've already removed the bioballs from chamber 2 and added a CPR SR3 skimmer, but after looking at several of the posts here, I was wondering if I shouldn't have installed instead SteveT's custom media rack, etc (I could still return the SR3).

 

If I stick with the SR3, should I still try to add some sort of media to the system? If so, what type should I add, and can I make it work in chambers 1 or 3? You could replace the blue sponge in chamber #3 with a bag of chemipure elite.

 

In chamber 1, there is a plastic "vent" about 1/2 way down the chamber. What is this for? Should I remove it? Not sure what the is here if it can be removed. Can you post up a picture?I've read that several people have placed their heater in this chamber. Does anyone have a recommendation on a good heater to purchase for this tank? I have a 100 watt Stealth heater in mine.

 

Any suggestion for modifying/adding to chamber 3? Is the sponge filter or "micro-bubble diffuser" worth keeping there or should I replace it with something else? see above

 

I received with the tank with about 15 stock BioCube filters that separate chambers 1 and 2--do these provide adequate filtration or are they a joke? They work well but load up quickly, need to be replace, and are expensive. Some have taken the media out of them, the white fluff and underneath the carbon, so that all you have left is the frame. Then you can purchase some inexpensive Polyester fiber fill from Walmart or one of the fabric stores and use it. Can be replaced daily for little money. (the fiber fill that is)

 

I've also considered adding an HOB AquaFuge refugium, but because of cost and size I'd rather avoid this (I'd prefer the tank to be flush against the wall). However, if it would significantly increase the stability of the system, I'd probably do it. This will definitly help with system stability in terms of nutrietn export, and will give a place to have pods reproduce.

 

Another question relates to in-tank circulation. On the university 125G, we run two Koralia 3's on a ReefKeeper that alternate on/off every 6 mins. I'm very tempted to hook up two Koralia nano's or Koralia 1's to an ocean pulse wavemaker and have them generate alternating flow. Does anyone have experience with this in a nano? Is it helpful, or is it just overkill? Honestly, I've actually considered setting up a K1 in front of chamber 1 and a K-nano in front of chamber 3 to vary both the intensity and direction of flow. This last idea will be sufficient for this tank. Koralia powerheads are not designed to be turned on and off so I would nix that idea if I were you. The other thing I have done has been to replace the stock return pump in chamber #3 with a Rio 6hf. The stock pump is 243 gph and the Rio is 350 and uses less watts to power it so less heat in the tank.

 

Maybe I'm just thinking about this too much, but I suppose that's the nature of addictions!

 

I realize that there are several "right ways" to set up/modify a tank, but I'd appreciate any advice that you could offer.

 

Thanks very much.

 

Hope that helps a little and we are looking forward to seeing pictures of your progress setting up and running your tank.

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All good points by Henry above...

 

About your skimmer...I have one, so I would recommend running one. I have the Tunze 9002 which takes up about 50% of your chamber 2 space. That's how I am able to use a media basket in that chamber. If you decide to keep the skimmer you have, and it takes up all of chamber2, then just do as Henry suggested and add your chemipure elite bag to chamber 3. Just make sure you are using floss somewhere near the overflow from chamber 1 to chamber 2 as you don't want large amounts of waste accumulating in chambers 2 and 3. As Henry stated, the stock slide-in carbon/floss filters work, but they impede flow.

 

Also, I think I read that you had a question about opening up the chemipure bag and mixing it with something else?? The chemipure bag should not be opened...just rinse with tap water and add it to your tank. If you buy chemipure elite, it contains a phosphate blocker as well. So, you could use it and not have to use another product specifically for phosphate protection. I am using the regular chemipure in my media basket in chamber 2 and have a bag of phoslock in chamber 3.

 

My advice would be that you:

1. Read up.

2. Don't do any mods until you have thought them through and know that you will benefit from them.

3. Continue to look at threads from other BC29 owners. You will easily sort out those you want to take advice from vs those who give advice and really shouldn't.

4. Do not, under any circumstances, add livestock to your tank until it is cycled.

 

Have fun..

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I think I'm gonna go with: mainly b/c I'm getting tired of the research...

 

Chamber 1: False floor removed...Stealth Heater

Chamber 2: inTank media basket (floss/macroalgae/ChemiPure Elite) and Tunze skimmer. (+ inTank Cup)

Chamber 3: MJ1200 return pump + some filterfloss in a bag ( to make the size of stock sponge) in the slot to prevent anything from getting into the chamber + it should help disspate bubbles.

 

 

I think this should work well , plus...I can order the basket now -- get the skimmer later - or i have the option of using the biocube skimmer in Chamber 1 and getting the inTank fuge.. keeps my options open for a while.

 

One problem I see is - I'll need to scrape paint to get light to the media rack - my tank is in a corner - i'm not sure how i can reach back and scrape...would the inTank submursable LEDs enough?

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One problem I see is - I'll need to scrape paint to get light to the media rack - my tank is in a corner - i'm not sure how i can reach back and scrape...would the inTank submursable LEDs enough?

 

 

Yes, the lights are enough to grow chaeto in the rear chamber. But FYI, they are not LEDs

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Yes, the lights are enough to grow chaeto in the rear chamber. But FYI, they are not LEDs

 

 

B) This clears up SO much - I was thinking, since when do LEDs provide light neccessary for plant growth ( I could be wrong but I thought I had read somwhere red/blue LED lights do the trick)

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White LEDs will promote plant grown, I think i read somewere that they think LED's will replace MH....I don't know about that, or about red/blue LED's doing the trick. IMO I would have to say no to the different colour lights!

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B) This clears up SO much - I was thinking, since when do LEDs provide light neccessary for plant growth ( I could be wrong but I thought I had read somwhere red/blue LED lights do the trick)

 

 

in a size comparison you would need a lot more LEDs to provide the light needed to grow chaeto. My underwater lights give off so much more in a smaller package.

 

LEDs, possibly will replace MH one day. The largest issues is that a company not related to aquariums patented the use of LEDs to be used for aquarium lighting and put the #1 manufacture out of business.

 

So that is a HUGE set back, but it doesn't stop the hobbyist from doing their own.

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Thanks for all of your input.

 

After looking at reviews of the CPR SR3 and Tunze 9002, I'm probably going to return the SR3 and pick up a Tunze. Generally, what I've read indicates that people have been either equally happy or happier with the Tunze. Not only is the Tunze equally good, if not better than the SR3, it has a much smaller footprint, which will allow me to include one of the fantastic InTank media racks. One concern about the Tunze is that it runs on 115 V. Will this cause a problem if the outlet voltage in my home is not the same? I'm certainly no electrician.

 

For display tank circulation, I plan to add a Koralia nano (In addition to the Koralia 1 that is already there). I'm still tempted (and will probably try) hooking them up to a wavemaker. Most reef organisms are adapted and seem to prefer moderate to strong intermediate flow, which will be provided by the wavemaker. I know that the Koralia's aren't designed to be turned on-off, but that's exactly what they are doing in the 125G university tank very successfully. I plan to try both methods (with and without the wavemaker), and I'll keep you posted on the results.

 

Because I don't plan on upgrading the lighting (right away), it sounds like a clam is out of the question (thanks for the advice).

 

I have removed the false floor in chamber 1 for the heater.

 

I plan to upgrade the pump to a Rio 6hf.

 

I didn't know that chemi-pur already came in its own bag.

 

I haven't started cycling my tank yet. Right now my live rock is still sitting in a tub of warm, circulating water. I thought I'd wait until I finished all the mods before I started cycling, but would it be ok to start cycling without the protein skimmer installed? When I do start cycling, should I keep the lights on or off (or on for a short period of time)? Of course I won't add livestock until it's fully cycled.

 

Regarding live sand--I plan on taking a few scoops of live sand from the established 125. Should I put this on top, below, or mixed in with the "dead" sand. Does it matter? I've seen various opinions on this.

 

Thanks again.

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crinus:

Good choice on the Biocube! I love mine!

 

I'll tell you what i'm planning to do with my tank. It's been running for over a year but i'm going to switch things up a bit. I'm purchasing the Tunze skimmer here pretty soon for the 2nd chamber and moving the refugium i built in #2 over to #1. i plan on either getting a submersible light or just scraping the paint of the back and hanging an old 10g striplight over it. I'll put the chemipure in the 3rd chamber to keep stuff from going through the pump. I'm still considering Stevie's media rack for the 2nd chamber as well. The thermometer i'm putting over in the 1st chamber.

 

That being said, I have a split locline on the pump output, and 2 Koralia Nano's on either side of the tank pointing at each other-it serves as a sort of random flow. It was posted in a previous reply that they're not recommended to be turned off and on. It's true, once they've been in the system for a while, i don't know if they get clogged or what, but they tend to just not turn back on all of a sudden. I've just ran them under hot water and/or white vinegar and it unclogs. The consensus for making random flow is using the Maxijets. They're perfect for that kind of set up and cheaper than the Koralias.

 

You're fine to start the cycling without the skimmer. You really don't want to run it anyway as it will do it's job as far as cleaning. you want that nasty stuff to build up so the system can work out how to take care of it. Everything will level on its own.

 

your fine to "seed the sandbed with live sand. It will take a much longer time before everything is alive and benificial than if you had just put in all *Live sand. Either way you're going to end up in the end with Live sand at one point.

 

 

 

Read my thread for more tweaks that i've done and if you have any questions just ask!! ;)

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The only problem I can see with putting Chemi Pure in the third chamber is that, if it some how gets sucked into your return pump then it will make a mess. I have StevieT’s Media Rack in the second chamber so all my media goes in the rack, except for my Phosegard that is in a smaller bag than Chemi. I put that where the sponge used to be. It’s smaller so I can push the whole thing in the slot, with no over hang. I tried this with the bag of the Chemi pure, and I could never get it to fit.

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