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Jkuhl

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Thanks seabass. I'm aware of the peppermint shrimp method but was concerned that my tank might still be too green for one? I'd prefer a natural method like an aiptasia eating shrimp for a lot of reasons. Suspecting upon first glance, that it was indeed aiptasia, I looked into eradication methods right away. Most information doesn't account for tank maturation though. As much as I'd love a new inhabitant, I really would, I worry about needing to remind myslef to slow down. Any idea what the green stuff is? Thank you!

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I'm aware of the peppermint shrimp method but was concerned that my tank might still be too green for one? I'd prefer a natural method like an aiptasia eating shrimp for a lot of reasons.

I get that you'd like to keep things as natural as possible, but there are actually quite few things we use which are natural (for example, lighting, flow, filtration, even water are typically artificial). So there's no shame in using something like Aiptasia X when you need it.

 

On the other hand there are peppermint shrimp. I've successfully used them twice in the past, but apparently they don't always work for everyone. I've read where there are different varieties and not all will eat aiptasia. I feel that they are more successful if kept hungry. I also have a suspicion that keeping multiple peppermint shrimp increases the chances of success.

 

That said, I have never kept peppermint shrimp for very long. They seem more prone to disturb other anemones, fan worms, even coral. Once they have finished their job I give them away.

 

As far as your tank being ready for them. I'd probably agree that it's a bit early for shrimp. But if this is your preferred method, I'd go for it. Waiting really isn't a good option. As long as there is no detectable ammonia, I think it should be alright.

 

Any idea what the green stuff is?

It's not such a bad picture, but it is very small and blends in to the background. If you touch it, does it retract quickly? If so, it could be another anemone (maybe a majano). However, you also mentioned a plate. Is that just it's shape or does it have a protective shell or calcium skeleton? As you know, an anemone wouldn't have either a shell or skeleton.

 

If it is soft and doesn't retract quickly, it is likely some sort of coral. I'd need a better pic to speculate further.

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Definitely aiptasia.

 

Get some aiptasia x, turn pumps off, smother the aiptasia, wait 15mins to turn pumps on.

 

Don't touch the aiptasia, it will close up and not be effected, just squirt the liquid all over it.

 

The other one looks like possibly ball anemone, strawberry anemone. Hard to see it but look those up and see if it looks like what you have

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So I went to the lfs this morning after an early morning water change and brought home a peppermint shrimp. Within 2 hrs the aiptasia was gone. I watched the shrimp for most of the initial 2 hrs but stepped out for maybe 20 mins and checked back in the nick of time. I watched him discover the aiptasia and then devour it, hahaha. Even grabbed a pic.

 

 

And clown, it is definitely a ball anemone good call!!

 

Now what to do with this shrimp?

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I'd say keep the shrimp. Outside of being coral food thieves they're excellent as scavengers. And since they're proven Aptaisia eaters you'll never have to worry about those again.

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Now what to do with this shrimp?

I'd leave him be until he proves to be pest. The anemone could have already multiplied. Also, if it didn't pick the area clean, the aiptasia could grow back. The longer you leave him in there, the better chance that your tank will remain aiptasia free.

 

I'd feed him a little fish food every other day. Unless you discover more aiptasia, then I'd cut back on feedings so he's encouraged to forage for food (aiptasia).

 

Edit: Pinner Reef beat me to it. :)

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I'd keep the shrimp but watch him when you add corals, they have been known to go after fleshy corals-unfortunately i had this experience with mine.

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Update. So I performed water change number 3 today and tests are still producing in a good range. I've added 3 cerith snails and the other inhabitants are all still going strong. The hermits, and shrimp have molted and at least 3 of the hermits have adopted new empty shells that I've provided. My lfs sold me a small zoa colony for 10 bucks and they've been doing well and remain open since last Tuesday. Starting to get the itch but know I need to keep it slow.

 

Which brings me to a question. My lfs is a 30 min drive and I'm wondering the best way to transport livestock. I purchased a drip acclimator the same day I got my hermits and use it for every new addition. Is a portable heater a worthy investment for my car? There is another store about 40 mins away with a much more diverse and abundant stock. I'd like the journey from store to tank to be as comfy as possible.

Zoa

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You'll see some deferring opinions on acclimating livestock. I usually just temperature acclimate by floating the bag for a half an hour. However there are a few sensitive inverts which benefit from drip acclamation, so it's good you have that when needed.

 

I wouldn't invest in a heater for transporting livestock. If anything, you could put them in an insulated cooler. The car should be heated, so it shouldn't be too big of a deal. Even if you transported them in your truck, you could pack the cooler with shipping peanuts and place a hand warmer on top (not having the bag actually touch the warmer, it's just to heat the air in the cooler). You shouldn't have a problem transporting anything from either shop.

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Just wanted to say thanks again to the members who've been so forthcoming and helpful with answering my questions. This forum is awesome and has been indispensable in my return to marine tank and reef husbandry. Everything is going great and I've added some more zoas, a mushroom and a branching green tipped frogspawn. I've also added 3 nassarius snails and a firefish. With the exception of my hermits knocking a zoa frag plug to to the sand everything has been great thus far. Tests are all in excellent ranges with a slight increase in nitrate (5ppm I assume from feeding and new bioload). If it weren't for my hermits and this forum, I wouldn't have popped my frag gluing cherry (zoa frag is now secure and fully open again). Tomorrow is water change day and I just finished mixing my salt water. An Rodi is on the way! So, thanks again everyone here at nanoreef forum this place rules!!!

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I do the same. I temp acclimate for 30mins by floating the bag.

 

If i did an online shipment i may consider doing drip acclimation.

 

I have purchased livestock over an hr away with no issues. I've used Styrofoam coolers just to keep temp stable.

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If i did an online shipment i may consider doing drip acclimation.

In my opinion/experience, online orders often accumulate ammonia while the pH level tends to drop. Simply drip acclimating (without using an ammonia detoxifier like Prime) can raise pH and convert the less toxic ammonium into free ammonia (killing your new arrivals). So for animals that are not especially sensitive to pH, salinity, or oxygen level swings, I still like to just temperature acclimate and get them out of their shipping water ASAP. This works for the majority of online orders (including most snails and coral); however, more sensitive creatures (like, for example, cleaner shrimp and starfish) may require less drastic changes in pH, specific gravity, and/or oxygen levels. For sensitive livestock, it would be advisable to add a dose of Prime to the shipping water before drip acclimating them.
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Thanks again guys you're the best.

 

So I think the koralia nano 240 is too much for this tank. I've noticed that when I turn it off for feeding that the zoas and frogspawn seem much happier. I've taken it out and will monitor the next few days to see if I'm right. When it's on the green furry shrooms at the bottom seem like they're getting blasted and don't open as much as they do when it's off. Same goes for a small kenya tree frag, much happier without the koralia. Now the stock return pump is rated at 106gph. Should I look to upgrade that to a more powerful pump. With the koralia and the stock pump my gph was approximately 346 and now I'm back to 106. I don't want to blast the corals but I also don't want dead spots in the tank. Thanks in advance.

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The tank and a new tank raised ocellaris added yesterday.The previous phosphate test is 2 days removed from a 2 gallon water change.

 

Edit: I really need to bust out the dslr.

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It depends on how you place the powerhead. I would try directing it upwards.

 

Another option is upgrading the pump and using a rotator on the return to give you a different type of flow.

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Thanks Clown. I did have the koralia pointed at the surface and it did help but it still seemed like too much flow. There is a 180gph hydor pico with a rotator that I'm considering and I'm definitely seriously considering your suggestion as well. I imagine 106gph alone is likely not enough. The brs 4 stage ro/di is on the way and I bought some matrix carbon, gfo and some media bags as well. I'll use those when its time to remove the chemi pure elite and purigen. Oh yeah, bought bottle of tigger pods too.

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I upgraded my pump in my 10g IM. I used a maxijet 900 and then i used the nanostream rotator on the return. It offered different flow which spread farther and kept the surface spotless.

 

Hydor also sells rotators.

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I run the IM spinstreams, they work flawlessly for me. Tad bulky, but have one going for over 6 months without any issues or cleanings. I have also tried the Hydra Aquatics nano vortex flow spinner, within a week they were causing issues left and right.

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