New member nano cube 12 led

[Jkuhl]

Hey all, new member here with a new 12 gallon nano cube led. I started my live rock/sand cycle on Monday of this week and daily tests finally showed a small ammonia spike yesterday. Haven't tested yet today but will in a few. On the way, I have a media baske with a year's supply of purigen, filter floss and chemipure. I also ordered an autoaqua smart micro ato. I'm looking for a skimmer that fits the rear chamber but am not having much luck. A sump may be in the works if I can't find a suitable skimmer. This is my first attempt at a reef system although I've had fowlr systems in the past with great success. After the tank cycles and the clean up crew are acclimated I plan on doing some easy softies to start, zoos, mushrooms, gsp etc. A firefish and a clown or possibly a pair of clowns will be the extent of the fish that this system will see. A couple of blue mushrooms have appeared on my rock and are spreading out nicely. Additionally I've spotted several pineapple sponges and a few spaghetti worms. Who know what else hitched a ride? Looking forward to getting to know you all here and I appreciate any input and advice from the members here. Thanks in advance.

[Jkuhl]

Few pics

[seabass]

Hi. Looks like a nice start.

[debbeach13]

Hi Happy New Year and Happy Reefing!

[WV Reefer]

Looks good so far

[Jkuhl]

Thanks guys. My ammonia test came back at 0. Gonna wait another week at least before adding some cleanup members and continue with daily tests. Any advice as to what corals to add first? I'm really smitten with zoas at the moment.

[seabass]

I'm really smitten with zoas at the moment.

Sure, get some. Zoanthids tend to be hardy, aren't very aggressive, and are good starter corals. There are a lot of very nice common zoas, so you shouldn't have to pay a premium for "rare" varieties (unless you really want them). But get what you really like, not just what's on sale or currently available (you'll have plenty of time to stock your tank).

[Jkuhl]

Today's test results.

 

Ammonia 0ppm

 

Nitrite 0ppm

 

Nitrate 10-15ppm

 

Hydrometer 1.023-1.024 (right in the middle)

 

Should I expect another ammonia spike and with the current nitrate reading, should I consider a water change at this point.? I know my salinity is low and should probably be 1.025, should this be corrected during the first water change or should I be trying to get to 1.025 before a change?

 

The blue shrooms are growing and unfurling more and more each day and as the day goes on. My plan for now is to continue with daily testing unless you all think my tank has cycled already.

 

I've read that cycles with live rock and sand are typically less dramatic than cycles with dead rock, true or false? I've introduced no ammonia and only dosed one TBSP of startsmart complete on Tuesday. So as far as I am aware, the live rock and sand are doing their jobs as biological filters. I also have nothing but sponges in the first chamber. I'm of the understanding that inserting the chemipure, purigen and floss should happen only after the tank has cycled and the first livestock has been added increasing the bio load?

 

I apologize for all the noobish questions but my goal is to harm as few creatures as possible and I will patiently bide my time to ensure that that goal is achieved to the best of my ability. Thank you for all the help, I love this site.

Sure, get some. Zoanthids tend to be hardy, aren't very aggressive, and are good starter corals. There are a lot of very nice common zoas, so you shouldn't have to pay a premium for "rare" varieties (unless you really want them). But get what you really like, not just what's on sale or currently available (you'll have plenty of time to stock your tank).

 

Thanks for the reply.

[seabass]

Should I expect another ammonia spike and with the current nitrate reading, should I consider a water change at this point.? I know my salinity is low and should probably be 1.025, should this be corrected during the first water change or should I be trying to get to 1.025 before a change?

Unless you add another ammonia source (or more organics), I wouldn't expect another ammonia spike.

 

Nitrate at around 10ppm (even as high as 15ppm) is fine. However, at this point (with ammonia being undetectable), you can perform a water change at any time.

 

Your specific gravity is also fine for now. However, I find that topping off with saltwater (instead of freshwater) is a pretty good way to slowly raise specific gravity.

 

The blue shrooms are growing and unfurling more and more each day and as the day goes on. My plan for now is to continue with daily testing unless you all think my tank has cycled already.

Looks like the cycle (for the current bio-load) has been established.

 

I've read that cycles with live rock and sand are typically less dramatic than cycles with dead rock, true or false? I've introduced no ammonia and only dosed one TBSP of startsmart complete on Tuesday. So as far as I am aware, the live rock and sand are doing their jobs as biological filters. I also have nothing but sponges in the first chamber. I'm of the understanding that inserting the chemipure, purigen and floss should happen only after the tank has cycled and the first livestock has been added increasing the bio load?

All cycles vary. However, locally purchased live rock is often pretty much cured (making the ammonia spikes less dramatic and being able to support larger initial bio-loads).

 

You shouldn't add ammonia to a tank with live rock or other livestock. It's simply not required and the toxicity can harm the non-bacterial live.

 

If using sponges, keep them clean so they don't become biological filters. I typically recommend mechanical filtration (filter floss) even during the cycle. Chemical filtration can be added as soon as the cycle has become established.

 

I apologize for all the noobish questions but my goal is to harm as few creatures as possible and I will patiently bide my time to ensure that that goal is achieved to the best of my ability. Thank you for all the help, I love this site.

Your questions have been good and show that you've done some research. That's a good attitude to have when caring for animals which are dependent on you.

[Jkuhl]

Unless you add another ammonia source (or more organics), I wouldn't expect another ammonia spike.

 

Nitrate at around 10ppm (even as high as 15ppm) is fine. However, at this point (with ammonia being undetectable), you can perform a water change at any time.

 

Your specific gravity is also fine for now. However, I find that topping off with saltwater (instead of freshwater) is a pretty good way to slowly raise specific gravity.

 

 

Looks like the cycle (for the current bio-load) has been established.

 

 

All cycles vary. However, locally purchased live rock is often pretty much cured (making the ammonia spikes less dramatic and being able to support larger initial bio-loads).

 

You shouldn't add ammonia to a tank with live rock or other livestock. It's simply not required and the toxicity can harm the non-bacterial live.

 

If using sponges, keep them clean so they don't become biological filters. I typically recommend mechanical filtration (filter floss) even during the cycle. Chemical filtration can be added as soon as the cycle has become established.

 

 

Your questions have been good and show that you've done some research. That's a good attitude to have when caring for animals which are dependent on you.

Thanks so much for the detailed response. It's like you read my mind, I actually just finished rinsing the sponges and have been topping with my salt mix as a way to gradually increase the salinity. Tomorrow I'll do my first water change. What % would you suggest? I also noticed this afternoon, that there is a slight covering of brown algae (diatom) I presume. Thanks again for your help, it's greatly appreciated.

[seabass]

At 10ppm of nitrate, a 10% water change will lower the value 1ppm (so not even noticeable on most nitrate tests). But like I said, I don't feel that 10ppm is really a problem. I normally suggest people start out by doing 15% water changes each week and see how it goes. So for your tank, I'd change about 2 gallons of water each week and monitor nutrient levels. I also suggest getting a low range phosphate test kit so you can monitor that important nutrient as well.

 

Diatoms are common for tanks with new sand. Usually they bloom after the cycle has been established and go away once the silicate has been used up. They are usually not a sign of poor water quality or high nutrient levels (although tap water can contribute to blooms).

[Jkuhl]

Thank you seabass, all very valuable information. I'll pick up a phosphate test kit tomorrow. Happy new year to everyone!!

[seabass]

Happy New Year.

 

Remember, API is a high range kit.

[Jkuhl]

Yes an important details to be sure hahaha. Is this a reliable instrument?

 

http://m.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=31949&cmpid=03cseYY&ref=6194&subref=AA&cmpid=PLA_G_6194&gclid=CIHQzfrgn9ECFQetaQod-KwIqw

[Clown79]

Sounds like you're on the right track.

 

Tank looks good.

 

My experience has been with liverock, very quick cycle without huge spike in ammonia or nitrates.

 

Your nitrates aren't very high so 10% should be good for your first waterchange. Weekly 10-20% is the average.

 

I agree with Seabass, don't add ammonia to a tank with liverock and to increase your salinity just too up with saltwater(mixed to 1.025) instead of fresh. That increaes it slowly.

 

You may want to invest in a refractometer, they are so much easier and more accurate than hydrometers.

 

Filterfloss is great to use but always replace it at least 1 time a week sometimes 2 times. My 15g i replace it once a week but my 10g needs it twice a week. Each tanks needs are different.

 

A good carbon like Seachem Matrix is helpful. You can buy it in bulk and add the qty you need to a media bag. Rinse the media bag with every water change(it gets gucky) and replace the carbon every 2-4wks(each tanks needs are different)

 

 

I always advise vacuuming the sand bed and blasting the rocks with a turkey baster with every water change. This really helps prevent nutrient issues.

 

As Seabass said, API phosphate kit is high range, by the time you get results, the phos is too high. Salifert is a low range kit.

 

Happy New Yr and Happy Reefing?

[Jkuhl]

Thanks for the tips clown. The advice is much appreciated. A Refractometer is on the list too. My next most pressing two pieces of equipment are an RO/DI, and hopefully a skimmer that will fit the rear chamber. I know most people would argue that a skimmer for a 12 gallon system is unnecessary, however, I'm of the mindset that any helpful filtration is worthwhile. I enjoyed the daily routine of cleaning the skim cup on my last tank and I think the inhabitants did too haha. I need to figure my water pressure situation here at home, as well as obtain a breakdown of my water content, to know which direction to go with an RO. Again, much obliged.

[seabass]

Here's a good RO/DI unit: http://spectrapure.com/Refurbished-90-GPD-RODI-System

[Jkuhl]

Thanks for the ro suggestion seabass!

 

So went to my lfs, whose website stated they'do be open today, only to drive up to a closed store. Doh! Since I was already out, I went to petco and grabbed, 150 g worth of salt,a scrubber wand, some additional filter floss and a powerhead for mixing my salt water. Their stock was miserable, no low range phosphate kit, no micro led for a chaeto set up and no refractometer to name a few. The lfs has everything I need so, no worries.

 

I'm really trying to figure out the best use for the back chambers. Currently I plan to use chamber one for the intank media basket with, floss, purigen and a suspended chemipure bag. Chamber 2 currently houses my heater and I was thinking of doing chaeto in that chamber with a mini fuge light. In chamber three, is the stock return pump and I thought this would make a good place for the ato sensor, with the ato's return running back into the first chamber. I've read of people sandwiching a bag of active carbon between floss in the third chamber as an extra polisher, is this advisable? Considering skimming seems to be a prohibitive option without modding my tank or running a sump, I'm hoping to maximize the use of the rear chambers. Any insight is truly appreciated.

[seabass]

Currently I plan to use chamber one for the intank media basket with, floss, purigen and a suspended chemipure bag... I've read of people sandwiching a bag of active carbon between floss in the third chamber as an extra polisher, is this advisable?

I wouldn't. It's basically redundant and won't provide much, if any, benefit.

[Jkuhl]

Thank you again Seabass.

 

So, tests are still in suitable ranges with nitrates taking a dip to 5ppm. I got the Salifert test kit but have not tested yet. I added a small crew of blue legged hermits (4, already named and being journaled by my 7yr.old, she's into it!) for the diatoms and bought a ball of chaeto to live in the display until my refugium light arrives next week. The chaeto will live in chamber 2 with my heater. The media basket, along with the purigen, chemipure elite and filter pads and floss also arrived. I'm still only running the sponges and rinsing them daily. Am I correct to assume that, waiting to employ the purigen and chemipure for a higher bio-load is the best course of action? Also I've read conflicting information (also contributing to my hesitancy) that chemipure elite rated for up to 25 gallon tanks (6.5 oz bag) is too much for a 12g system. Is this true? Intank specifically listed this dose for the 12g media basket.

 

And my final dilemna... I had planned to use the new smart micro ato sensor in my return chamber with the top off routed into chamber one. However, the chamber water depth varies so greatly depending upon the surface skimmer height (which can easily be jarred) that, I'm afraid that a surface skimmer bump, or flow impediment, could activate the ato into over filling/flooding the tank and throwing the salinity out of whack.?.? Would it make more sense to position the sensor inside the display tank? The level of the display, in the event of a surface skimmer nudge, or loss of flow seems to vary far less.

 

I feel like I have everything I need to be a good steward to this habitat but am still unsure 100% on how to use everything. Coming home to an overflowing tank, or one so imbalanced by a chemical overload has me putting on the brakes with this new gear. Any tips or info? Thanks as usual.

 

Oh yeah, my 7yr old daughter is enjoying this so much, that she literally spent her entire free time after school, journaling and drawing pictures of the evolving habitat. Who needs TV!!

[Clown79]

I wouldn't use sponges or filter pads, even when washed they become nutrient traps and factories. Filter floss is enough and changed out at least 2 times a week.

 

You are correct, using the larger chemipure elite on a 12g is not advised, it will strip your tank. Per the company themselves and others experience.

 

I would start using carbon and other media once you start adding livestock.

 

As far as I know, the ato is supposed to be set up in the return chamber, thats where the water level drops and thats where the top off is completed. Your display level won't change.

[seabass]

Chaeto won't help with diatoms. Diatoms will use up the available silicate then go away. Sometimes chaeto can be touchy, especially in new systems. Don't be surprised if it fails. If it does, you might wait a bit before trying again.

 

Personally I wouldn't wait to add chemical media. Steve @ inTank is pretty knowledgeable, so I typically trust his recommendations as to which products work in his media baskets for a specific tank. However, my personal recommendation would be to just run activated carbon and Phosguard, in media bags (they can even be mixed in one bag), based on your phosphate levels (and not use ChemiPure). This gives you greater flexibility as to how much of each product you wish to use and how long you use them before replacing them. For phosphate, you want the level between 0.01 and 0.03 ppm (just a slight blue tint on the Salifert phosphate kit, but not darker than 0.03 on the chart). Phosphate too low can be hard on corals, while phosphate too high can cause accelerated algae growth.

 

As Clown79 stated, definitely don't put your ATO sensor in the main display. The tank is designed to keep that steady. The chamber that changes water levels due to evaporation is the return chamber. Put the sensor there. I would also fill that chamber from your top off reservoir (instead of the first chamber). Even if you move the surface skimmer, it shouldn't cause a flood. However it could affect the specific gravity of your water. If you are very concerned about that, just top off manually.

[Jkuhl]

Thanks again to seabass and clown, both of you have been so helpful. I actually spoke with Steve a few days ago and he informed me that a 3.1 oz bag is the proper size for my tank. While he said the 6.5oz bag would likely be fine, he suggested mixing the chemipure by hand and halving it. Apparently when he wrote the text for the nano 12 basket the 3.1 oz bag was not yet to market. Since he was being so helpful on the phone, I didn't bother to ask to return the larger bags and decided to follow his instructions. Once I use this media I will look into running active carbon and phosguard as mentioned above.

 

My fuge light arrived much sooner than expected and has been running for 3 nights opposite my day cycl3. The chaeto is looking vibrant and getting denser by the day. Peeking into the fuge at night and watching all the critters is nearly as much fun as looking into the display.

 

Tomorrow I do another 20% water change and since I've notice some algae build up on both the return nozzle and power head, I'll be scrubbing those as well. I also intend to install the ato tomorrow and get a feel for it before any livestock is introduced. 2 weeks in and things are moving along.

 

Some things I've discovered...the first is really hard to photograph (need to bust out the dslr) but I tried. I would describe it as a closed plate that opens to what almost look like individual translucent green stems with with whitish heads. Not sure what it is, maybe someone could ID? The second, I'm hoping is not aiptasia. It's brownish has a clear base and has what look like anemone tentacles (it is an anemone after all hahaha). Again, did my best to get a photo, so the image isn't the best. If it is indeed aphasia, should I concern myself with removing asap? If so, what is the best method 2 weeks into a new system? The mushrooms seem to be happy as well as the hermits. I've also discovered several copepods on the tank glass! Anyway here are some photos. I tried to frame the subject in the center. I look forward to all the responses.

 

Edit: the photo order is reversed. The first image is what I hope isn't aiptasia. The second is a total mystery. It's location is parallel and to the right of the oval shaped hole in the rock.

[Jkuhl]

I relocated the bigger shroom to bottom of the tank and after several days seems to be happier than it was right at the top. The smaller shroom was also moved more to the middle of the tank and has tripled in size.

I relocated the bigger shroom to bottom of the tank and after several days seems to be happier than it was right at the top. The smaller shroom was also moved more to the middle of the tank and has tripled in size. I also rearranged the rocks and chiseled some down to more suitable sizes. Doubt I'm done with the scape though.

[seabass]

Yeah that's aiptasia. It can multiply, so I'd get rid of it as soon as you can. Do a search on aphasia and you'll get a lot of results. To get rid of it, peppermint shrimp often work, or Aiptasia X.