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Clownfish help


Canadianeh

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I moved my one and only clown fish into my DT last night which already finished cycling.

 

I noticed that he has not been eating, stay in the top corner and breathing hard. I also notice stringy poo.

 

What this could be?

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RIP Sebastian

He is in a new tank, give him a day or two. It very well maybe stressed. What are your parameters? What other inhabitants are in the tank?

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He is in a new tank, give him a day or two. It very well maybe stressed. What are your parameters? What other inhabitants are in the tank?

On small Xenia frag. No one else in the DT.

 

Few days ago Ammonia and Nitrite 0 and Nitrate was like 17 or lower. Salinity 1.026, temp 78

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RIP Sebastian

On small Xenia frag. No one else in the DT.

 

Few days ago Ammonia and Nitrite 0 and Nitrate was like 17 or lower. Salinity 1.026, temp 78

 

17? That's high.

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Clownfish are weird. That said the stringy poop concerns me. Did you quarantine the fish? Try treating with PraziPro. I have heard you may use it in your DT as long as you shut off your skimmer and take out your chemical filtration.

 

 

That's before I did 5 gallons WC
It's swimming in an angle too and just stay at the top corner

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I know you quaranteed the fish, did it exhibit any of this prior to the move?

 

Did you test the tank for ammonia before you moved him in?

 

It could be just stressed. Turn the lights off to ease his transition and monitor.

 

What colour is the poop?

 

17 nitrates is a tad high but ppl have had higher. Breathing heavy is normally a sign of stress or oxygen deprivation.

 

Clowns also act weird. Most find a place and bob around in that area.

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Mr clown went back to QT tank with freshly made saltwater and this time a dose of Prazipro. He wil stay there for one week then paraguard for one week.

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I don't think he is doing good. He is not improving :(

 

He is not eating his regular food, stay on the bottom not active at all, and this morning he was tilting to the side and not swimming straight. He is also breathing heavy. I don't know what else I can do now. I wonder if I should take him out from QT and put him into DT (maybe he does not like QT), or continue with QT for the full week and move to Paraguard the week after.

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RIP Sebastian

I don't think he is doing good. He is not improving :(

 

He is not eating his regular food, stay on the bottom not active at all, and this morning he was tilting to the side and not swimming straight. He is also breathing heavy. I don't know what else I can do now. I wonder if I should take him out from QT and put him into DT (maybe he does not like QT), or continue with QT for the full week and move to Paraguard the week after.

 

Try the DT.

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Try the DT.

 

the thing is the reason I moved him back to QT is because he was acting the same except he was staying on the top corner.

 

I don't know what else I need to do. Should I try frozen food on QT?

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RIP Sebastian

 

the thing is the reason I moved him back to QT is because he was acting the same except he was staying on the top corner.

 

I don't know what else I need to do. Should I try frozen food on QT?

 

If he's not eating, he's most likely a goner. If it gets worse, euthanize him using clove oil.

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I think I know why he is sick. I think he got ammonia poisoning. I remember I waited too long to change the water in QT tank and I remember seeing algae developed on the glass and also some left over food.

 

What can I do to help him with ammonia poisoning? Any medication that I can buy?

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If its ammonia poisoning the only way to know is with an ammonia test. You need to test the water.

 

Not changing the water and algae being in the qt doesn't mean ammonia is present.

Algae is a natural process in the ocean and in tanks.

 

There is no medication for ammonia, you have to use seachem prime to bind it but you need to test to see if there is ammonia in the tank.

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If its ammonia poisoning the only way to know is with an ammonia test. You need to test the water.

 

Not changing the water and algae being in the qt doesn't mean ammonia is present.

Algae is a natural process in the ocean and in tanks.

 

There is no medication for ammonia, you have to use seachem prime to bind it but you need to test to see if there is ammonia in the tank.

I can't test it since I did 100% WC on that day.

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When you do your waterchange, is it completely new water or from your dt?

 

If dt, then test that water.

 

Theres no way to really know if its ammonia causing the issue without testing for ammonia

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When you do your waterchange, is it completely new water or from your dt?

 

If dt, then test that water.

 

Theres no way to really know if its ammonia causing the issue without testing for ammonia

It was brand new saltwater. Not from DT.

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ClownTriggerDude

Most will say anything above 10 for nitrates is hitting high levels.

lol,..nope. A lot of soft & leather corals and even clams like/need some nitrates, and phosphates, even for sps corals, need use them as nutrients. Fish handle levels over 100, and most public aquariums have nitrates of 50 or more, consistently.

 

1.00 and a little less in the latter. A hand full of years ago, a lot of reefers wanted 0 and under, but scientists found those levels are too low, so now their creeping up back to sane levels.

 

There for a while, some people got on to the bang wagon of having all both at 1.0 or below, but found that to be detrimental to corals.

17 will do absolutely,....no harm to fish and most corals. Some sps's may be a little unhappy, but most ok.

 

Look at the latest scientific journals, not just us hobbyists, and you'll see the extra low pristine tanks, suffer. After all, nitrates, phosphates, hair algae and even cyanobacteria, exist in all coral reefs, but a lot of corals and clams keep the numbers in check. Clams do not do well in very low levels in our small tanks. They like the water a little, dirty.

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Large public aquariums have far more in depth filteration systems than a home aquarium and much larger bodies of water. The ocean can't be compared to home aquariums either.

 

Most of have learned that nitrates 2-5 is best and phos at 0.03 is optimal.

 

When ppl suffer from algae issues, the most common occurance is nitrates above 10 and high phos.

 

I don't do research on forums.

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so I did 60% WC on the 10 gl GT tank last night, and this week I am treating them with Paraguard

 

The clown still kicking but continue to swim on its side. Occasionally swim around but majority of time on its side on the top side.

 

The Seachem Paraguard bottle says we can add 5 ml dose everyday as long as you don't see distress on fish. For my purpose, should I keep adding 5 ml everyday for one week?

 

The other clown is healthy, active, and eating well in the same QT tank

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