Groot Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Hello I have Hanna Low Phosphate checked and I decided to put some sand in the vial to see what my reading would be. I always got 0 reading but this time I got ridiculous high reading. I believe I could have put a little to much sand in the vial. How much sand do you guys put in the vial? With my 0 readings all the time with out said should I run GFO or re test with less sand? I use Red Sea No Pox any advice would be appreciated. Link to comment
HarryPotter Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Hello I have Hanna Low Phosphate checked and I decided to put some sand in the vial to see what my reading would be. I always got 0 reading but this time I got ridiculous high reading. I believe I could have put a little to much sand in the vial. How much sand do you guys put in the vial? With my 0 readings all the time with out said should I run GFO or re test with less sand? I use Red Sea No Pox any advice would be appreciated. Um. Hello. Why are you putting sand in the vial?!?!?!??!?!?!?!?!!?!?!??!?! Link to comment
Groot Posted October 29, 2016 Author Share Posted October 29, 2016 Because I thought you get more true readings of phosphate that way. Link to comment
HarryPotter Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Because I thought you get more true readings of phosphate that way. You want your tank water's parameters, not sand. It works optically by adding sand you are messing with it and your reading will have zero accuracy. Link to comment
Groot Posted October 29, 2016 Author Share Posted October 29, 2016 Any one else try this putting sand in the vial? Link to comment
Clown79 Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 Actually I do the same thing. read quite a few articles stating that phos in the water column often produces 0 readings. but if you get some sand in the test it will show you the phos levels. I had 0 readings with water only using 3 different kits including salifert and 0 for a yr. until i tried the sand test...now i see a change. Link to comment
seabass Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 I'm with Harry on this. That tip isn't for optical tests. Even some particles in the water can throw off the results. Your NO3:PO4-X is working. No need for GFO. Link to comment
Groot Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 I'm with Harry on this. That tip isn't for optical tests. Even some particles in the water can throw off the results. Your NO3:PO4-X is working. No need for GFO. It just seems like everybody uses GFO. But yes I believe the particles from sand is throwing it off. Link to comment
seabass Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 It just seems like everybody uses GFO. That's because most people need some form of phosphate control. In your case it's carbon dosing (with NO3:PO4-X). Other people rely on export (via water changes, and sometimes refugiums or algae turf scrubbers). Still others use chemical media like GFO (or Phosguard). Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Or lanthanum chloride Link to comment
Nano sapiens Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 It just seems like everybody uses GFO. The use of GFO is relatively recent. Reef tanks were run successfully without it before it became a supposed 'necessity'. It was originally intended to be used occasionally to correct aquarist induced issues (typically overfeeding/insufficient waste export/overstocking) which resulted in an over abundance of phosphate (and other nutrients). Regular water changes and removal of detritus, along with reasonable stocking and feeding, are typically sufficent to keep NO3 and PO4 at reasonably low levels. Finding the right balance for your particular reef tank is part of the challenge of reef keeping Link to comment
Groot Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 That's because most people need some form of phosphate control. In your case it's carbon dosing (with NO3:PO4-X). Other people rely on export (via water changes, and sometimes refugiums or algae turf scrubbers). Still others use chemical media like GFO (or Phosguard). Yeah I just thought with the sand reading that the No3 Po4-x was not doing its job so I thought I might have to move to GFO. But ill just continuing just testing just the water and not the sand. Link to comment
Groot Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 The use of GFO is relatively recent. Reef tanks were run successfully without it before it became a supposed 'necessity'. It was originally intended to be used occasionally to correct aquarist induced issues (typically overfeeding/insufficient waste export/overstocking) which resulted in an over abundance of phosphate (and other nutrients). Regular water changes and removal of detritus, along with reasonable stocking and feeding, are typically sufficent to keep NO3 and PO4 at reasonably low levels. Finding the right balance for your particular reef tank is part of the challenge of reef keeping 42 gal, I do weekly water changes of 5 to10 gallons. I feed once a day unless Im off which ill feed twice a day im either off 3 days or four. I don't strain my frozen food I feed half cube along with some flakes. Feeding Three Green Chromis, One Occelious Clown and one Fat Head Anties a total of 5 fish looking to add a goby and a blennie in the future. Have a bunch of crabs and snails. Link to comment
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