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Saltwater new set up buy list


Canadianeh

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I am going to set up a new salt water tank and the following is what I am going to buy. Please let me know your thoughts and if I am missing anything clear.png

I will get the MP10 later when I decide to put LPS or SPS.
Now just the waiting game. :)
  • 3x 5G food grade container jug
  • Floating glass thermometer
  • Eheim (Ebo) Jager 150W Heater (13 inch)
  • Spectrapure MaxCap 90GPD-MF 5 stage RODI w/ dual tds, ASO and membrane flush
  • Tunze comline DOC Skimmer 9004
  • Tunze osmolator NANO 3152 - auto top off
  • 50 lbs of Marco Rock - Premium Dry Key Largo
  • Cobalt Aquatics MJ-1200 Multi-Purpose Powerhead/Pump (295 GPH)
  • Finnex HC-0800U Electronic Temperature Controller
  • Eheim 24 inch Tongs
  • Coralife Aqua Gloves (One Pair Shoulder Length Protective Gloves)
  • Milwaukee digital refractometer
  • Innovative MArine NUVO Aquarium - Fusion Mini 40
  • Tunze Care Magnet Nano Algae Cleaner
  • 2x Boyd Chemi-Pure Blue 11oz
  • Innovative Marine Auqa Gadget AccuDrip Acclimator
  • 2x Innovative Marine AUQA Gadget Spin Stream - Return Nozzle
  • Innovative Marine High Gloss Cabinet Stand for 25 and 40 Gallon- Obsidian Black
  • 2x CaribSea Arag Alive Special Grade Reef Sand 20 lbs - Live Sand (00790)
  • Finnex 150W heater, with electronic temp control & Guard
  • Seachem Ammonia alert
  • 10" fish net
  • 25kgs Aquaforest Reef Salt
  • Nanobox Duo Plus M with 15" gooseneck hang kit
  • Idip Marine Kit
  • 2x Intank Media basket
  • Innovative Marine Gourmet Gadgets Kit
  • 2x Innovative Marine Desktop Fish guard
  • Poly filter floss value pack
  • Innovative Marine Reef Rack 50 (got it for free from InTank)
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Looks like a pretty solid list... I could go either way on the skimmer and powerhead...

 

Don't forget the other stuff!

- lots of 5g buckets

- RO/DI filter

- Salt mix

- Hydrometer/refractometer

- Test kits

- Substrate (sand)

- Rock

- Various tubing

- Small "utility pump" for mixing water etc...

- Thermometer/heater controller

- ATO (auto top off)?

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Looks like a pretty solid list... I could go either way on the skimmer and powerhead...

 

Don't forget the other stuff!

- lots of 5g buckets

- RO/DI filter

- Salt mix

- Hydrometer/refractometer

- Test kits

- Substrate (sand)

- Rock

- Various tubing

- Small "utility pump" for mixing water etc...

- Thermometer/heater controller

- ATO (auto top off)?

RODI, Refractometer, and a decent test kit should be one of the first things you buy
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I added Spectrapure to my original list and 2 x 5 gallons container. One for ATO and the other for mixing water.

 

What do you guys mean by utility pump? You mean another powerhead to mix the water and salt? Any recommendation?

How about this one?

https://www.reefsupplies.ca/online-store/Maxi-Jet-Pro-400-Powerhead.html

 

Maxi-jet's make excellent utility pumps - can even just grab a cheap fountain pump from the hardware store. I use one mainly to mix salt but also for other stuff like if you need to transfer livestock to a temp holding container or even to pump water from a bucket into the tank to prevent sandstorms from dumping the bucket in.

 

One other thing I thought I mentioned in my first post but apparently forgot is the spin streams. I think that if you're getting a circulation pump you probably don't need the spin stream attachments.

 

Finally - would recommend a temperature controller since you're going with a 300w heater. I'm gradually moving all my tanks to heater controllers - but would have been better to do it from the start. There are a few sponsors on here that sell them for a great price - Inkbird and not sure if ReefSafeSolutions has any left for sale but their units are also based on Inkbird controllers.

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Why do I need controller for the heater? Can I just set it to a certain temperature on the heater device itself?

 

Is this Hydrometer accurate? https://www.reefsupp...Hydrometer.html

 

Do I really need refractometer? What do I use this for? Sorry for the newbie question?

 

what test kit do you guys use?

 

Maxi-jet's make excellent utility pumps - can even just grab a cheap fountain pump from the hardware store. I use one mainly to mix salt but also for other stuff like if you need to transfer livestock to a temp holding container or even to pump water from a bucket into the tank to prevent sandstorms from dumping the bucket in.

 

One other thing I thought I mentioned in my first post but apparently forgot is the spin streams. I think that if you're getting a circulation pump you probably don't need the spin stream attachments.

 

Finally - would recommend a temperature controller since you're going with a 300w heater. I'm gradually moving all my tanks to heater controllers - but would have been better to do it from the start. There are a few sponsors on here that sell them for a great price - Inkbird and not sure if ReefSafeSolutions has any left for sale but their units are also based on Inkbird controllers.

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Search "Aquarium heater malfunction" or a similar phrase and you'll pull up a bunch of posts... Most heaters rely on cheap mechanical thermostats that are prone to failure. Heater controllers are much more reliable and their costs have come down such that you can get one for $30-40. Seems like good insurance for our reef tanks.

 

Personally, I like hydrometers. Some (or many) will say that they suck and to get a refractometer, but you need to calibrate a refractometer more often and they cost more. Hydrometers are a tad less accurate, but IME are pretty consistent (which is more important IMO) and a lot cheaper. If you do get a hydrometer take a sample of SW to your LFS and have it checked with a calibrated refractometer. If for example the refractometer reads 1.023 and your hydrometer reads 1.025 S.G. on the same sample then you know that your hydrometer is calibrated a little high. So make a note that your device runs .002 high.

 

There are lots of opinions on test kits... I use Red Sea and like them quite a bit. Popular brands are Salifert, Seachem, Red Sea, and API. API are the cheapest but they work. None of the test kits are lab grade or anything though so they all have a degree of inaccuracy to them. What's more important is being able to follow the instructions the same for each test so you get consistent results each time. There's actually an experiment someone did where they took the same test kits and the same water samples and had different people perform water tests. Even though the same reagents were used on the same water samples people got different results. Apparently people were performing the tests differently.

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which all in one test kit that I can get that covers all chemical tests that I need to perform for tank with fish, shrimp, clean up crews, and soft corals, anemone?

 

Search "Aquarium heater malfunction" or a similar phrase and you'll pull up a bunch of posts... Most heaters rely on cheap mechanical thermostats that are prone to failure. Heater controllers are much more reliable and their costs have come down such that you can get one for $30-40. Seems like good insurance for our reef tanks.

 

Personally, I like hydrometers. Some (or many) will say that they suck and to get a refractometer, but you need to calibrate a refractometer more often and they cost more. Hydrometers are a tad less accurate, but IME are pretty consistent (which is more important IMO) and a lot cheaper. If you do get a hydrometer take a sample of SW to your LFS and have it checked with a calibrated refractometer. If for example the refractometer reads 1.023 and your hydrometer reads 1.025 S.G. on the same sample then you know that your hydrometer is calibrated a little high. So make a note that your device runs .002 high.

 

There are lots of opinions on test kits... I use Red Sea and like them quite a bit. Popular brands are Salifert, Seachem, Red Sea, and API. API are the cheapest but they work. None of the test kits are lab grade or anything though so they all have a degree of inaccuracy to them. What's more important is being able to follow the instructions the same for each test so you get consistent results each time. There's actually an experiment someone did where they took the same test kits and the same water samples and had different people perform water tests. Even though the same reagents were used on the same water samples people got different results. Apparently people were performing the tests differently.

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If you are going with the mp you won't need the spin streams.

 

I suggested them for if you didn't add a powerhead because they would cause turbulent flow from the returns which is better thsn the standard nozzle.

 

Controllers for heaters are good. Heaters are the 1 thing notorious for malfuntion. I myself don't use one though.

 

I personally prefer refractometer and would never do a hydrometer again. I find them more accurate. 1 bubble in hydrometer will change the sg reading and it must be rinsed before you do each reading, soaked in vingar water every mnth to remove residue salt.

 

The additional powerhead is for mixing saltwater and an additional heater for the same purpose is needed.

 

Test kits to start.

 

Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate - I've always used Api for those.

 

When corals are added

Calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, phosphates

 

I use Api Ca and Alk - my results were the same with Red Sea and Salifert so I now save my money.

 

Magnesium and Phosphates - Salifert.

 

You will need rocks and sand.

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So if I don't need the Ecotech MP10 since I can also use spinstream, then why people with the same set up don't just use spinstream as it WILL save them tons of money? Is there any downside for me to just use spinstream ONLY?

 

If you are going with the mp you won't need the spin streams.

I suggested them for if you didn't add a powerhead because they would cause turbulent flow from the returns which is better thsn the standard nozzle.

Controllers for heaters are good. Heaters are the 1 thing notorious for malfuntion. I myself don't use one though.

I personally prefer refractometer and would never do a hydrometer again. I find them more accurate. 1 bubble in hydrometer will change the sg reading and it must be rinsed before you do each reading, soaked in vingar water every mnth to remove residue salt.

The additional powerhead is for mixing saltwater and an additional heater for the same purpose is needed.

Test kits to start.

Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate - I've always used Api for those.

When corals are added
Calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, phosphates

I use Api Ca and Alk - my results were the same with Red Sea and Salifert so I now save my money.

Magnesium and Phosphates - Salifert.

You will need rocks and sand.

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They're two completely different products with the same solution. A car gets you from point a to point b, but why are you driving a Ferrari instead of a Toyota (not to say there's anything bad about Toyota's). It's all a matter of wants vs needs, what you can and can't afford, etc.


Ps. I would not recommend starting out with a lot of live rock. Dry, Base rock will be more than suitable and it will all turn live within the first month or two. This gives you 100% complete protection against pests, including algae's.

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I am not getting any live rock at all. I updated my buy list on post #1.

 

I can understand your analogy. Are you saying that using spinstream vs MP10 have no pros and cons? I have a feeling that it is not as simple as toyota vs ferrari though. Is the oxygen and water flow enough using the spinstream alone for 40 gallon reef tank?

 

 

They're two completely different products with the same solution. A car gets you from point a to point b, but why are you driving a Ferrari instead of a Toyota (not to say there's anything bad about Toyota's). It's all a matter of wants vs needs, what you can and can't afford, etc.


Ps. I would not recommend starting out with a lot of live rock. Dry, Base rock will be more than suitable and it will all turn live within the first month or two. This gives you 100% complete protection against pests, including algae's.

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As i said in one of my posts. The amount of flow and type of current depends on the needs of the corals you house.

 

Many don't add powerheads to their all in ones and use just the return flow with spin streams. Some will add a powerhead after when they decide its needed. Some will just upgrade the pumps and use the spin streams.

 

There is no rule, its deciding upon the need of the livestock.

Ppl with tanks full of sps need a lot of flow but a tank full of lps doesn't.

 

 

There are tons of pros and cons.

 

Too much flow- can cause corals to shrink up, can tear the flesh of certain ones, cause sand storms.

Too little flow- can cause certain corals to not expand, doesn't create enough movement for food, filteration, etc.

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thank you Clown! I will hold off buying the MP10 now then since I will start with a few clowns and softies coral. Maybe they have sale on MP10 on boxing day too :)

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Agree with clown - totally depends on what you have in the tank. I will say though that using spin-streams with the stock return pumps probably won't be enough flow for a 40g. It may make things move a bit but there are still going to be dead spots in all likelihood where detritus can settle.

 

A circulation pump on the other hand produces a lot more flow, but in a wider/more disbursed pattern. You don't have to get an MP10 - a simple koralia pump does the same thing. I've used the Jebao version and it's not very reliable but it's so cheap that I somehow keep gravitating toward it... lol

 

If I were designing a tank I would use the circulation pump as the primary means for flow in the tank with the returns playing a secondary role. for a 40g I would probably use 2 small to mid size koralias or a more powerful DC pump like the MP10, Jebao RW-8, Gyre, Tunze 6040, etc...

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Ok. So I finally placed the order all at Reefsupplies.ca Ouch for my wallet.


So far they are great to deal with, and were the only store that is willing to work out some package deal with me since I get everything from them. Everyone else flat out refused and asked me to pay for the sticker price.


I will get the MP10 later when I decide to put LPS or SPS. Now just the waiting game. :)



  • 3x 5G food grade container jug
  • Floating glass thermometer
  • Eheim (Ebo) Jager 150W Heater (13 inch)
  • Spectrapure MaxCap 90GPD-MF 5 stage RODI w/ dual tds, ASO and membrane flush
  • Tunze comline DOC Skimmer 9004
  • Tunze osmolator NANO 3152 - auto top off
  • 50 lbs of Marco Rock - Premium Dry Key Largo
  • Cobalt Aquatics MJ-1200 Multi-Purpose Powerhead/Pump (295 GPH)
  • Finnex HC-0800U Electronic Temperature Controller
  • Eheim 24 inch Tongs
  • Coralife Aqua Gloves (One Pair Shoulder Length Protective Gloves)
  • Milwaukee digital refractometer
  • Innovative MArine NUVO Aquarium - Fusion Mini 40
  • Tunze Care Magnet Nano Algae Cleaner
  • 2x Boyd Chemi-Pure Blue 11oz
  • Innovative Marine Auqa Gadget AccuDrip Acclimator
  • 2x Innovative Marine AUQA Gadget Spin Stream - Return Nozzle
  • Innovative Marine High Gloss Cabinet Stand for 25 and 40 Gallon- Obsidian Black
  • 2x CaribSea Arag Alive Special Grade Reef Sand 20 lbs - Live Sand (00790)
  • Finnex 150W heater, with electronic temp control & Guard
  • Seachem Ammonia alert
  • 10" fish net
  • 25 kgs Aquaforest Reef Salt
  • Nanobox Duo Plus M with 15" gooseneck hang kit
  • Idip Marine Kit
  • 2x Intank Media basket
  • Innovative Marine Gourmet Gadgets Kit
  • 2x Innovative Marine Desktop Fish guard
  • Poly filter floss value pack
  • Innovative Marine Reef Rack 50 (got it for free from InTank)
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Thanks but my wallet is hurting really bad. I just bought 2x intank media, feeding tools kit, free frag intank stand, nanobox duo plus M, and idip marine kit.

 

Cost me $$$$$

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sure. I'm saying if you are adding it down the line, look at the jebao instead. The spectrapure didn't help the wallet either, but I'm not sure about availability for cheaper units up north.

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I have $30 off from for my next order with reefsupplies.ca so I will use it to buy MP10

 

I updated the list on post #17 adding:

  • Nanobox Duo Plus M with 15" gooseneck hang kit
  • Idip Marine Kit
  • 2x Intank Media basket
  • Innovative Marine Gourmet Gadgets Kit
  • 2x Innovative Marine Desktop Fish guard
  • Poly filter floss value pack
  • Innovative Marine Reef Rack 50 (got it for free from InTank)
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