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Hello! NOT my first post, but...actually setting a tank up this time


AlmightyJoshaeus

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AlmightyJoshaeus

I am planning on setting up a 10 gallon split reef/macroalgae tank as a gift for my mother (needless to say, it will be percolating at my house for several months before giving it to her to ensure it is stable and we both know what we are doing). I realized something while planning this...I've done a decent amount of research on saltwater tanks over the several years I have been in the (freshwater) side of the hobby, but really don't know a lot about a lot of specifics for them. Here goes the round of questions! :)

 

1 - Is there any particular reason corals are not usually grown under daylight bulbs (5,000-6500k?)? From personal experience they work very well for plants, and my research suggests macroalgaes also use them well...I'm just not sure why corals are seldom grown under them. Is it just a matter of cosmetics?

2 - Where do I get live/dead rock?

3 - Would a turnover rate of 15-20 times per hour work for this tank with a HOB filter? In addition to the filter media, I was planning on adding activated carbon, chaeto, and maybe copepods. Might have an air dirven filter on the other side of the tank to back it up and drive more effective circulation.

4 - I understand that saltwater tanks need daily 'top offs' of distilled/RO/equivalently pure water. You stop all the pumps, add enough distilled water to reach the original water level, and then set them going again...right?

5 - Any recommendations for reasonably idiot proof corals for this tank? I was going to use reef salts rather than plain saltwater(also, any species with palytoxin I should worry about? Would hate to unintentionally poison my mother with a gift!)

6 - Any suggestions for fish for this layout? I was shooting for just 1 or 2 fish in here to make it easier to keep the water pristine. (Also, in case we go that route...would a mated pair of clownfish be comfy in a 10, or would they bicker incessantly?)

 

Thankx for all the replies!

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corals can grow but more survive than thrive under daylight

your local fish store or online (KP Aquatics for the win)

filtration ls sounding good (I reccomend aquaclear)

yes

zoas leathers and most softies

goby shrimp pair and single clown

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I am planning on setting up a 10 gallon split reef/macroalgae tank as a gift for my mother (needless to say, it will be percolating at my house for several months before giving it to her to ensure it is stable and we both know what we are doing). I realized something while planning this...I've done a decent amount of research on saltwater tanks over the several years I have been in the (freshwater) side of the hobby, but really don't know a lot about a lot of specifics for them. Here goes the round of questions! :)

 

1 - Is there any particular reason corals are not usually grown under daylight bulbs (5,000-6500k?)? From personal experience they work very well for plants, and my research suggests macroalgaes also use them well...I'm just not sure why corals are seldom grown under them. Is it just a matter of cosmetics?

2 - Where do I get live/dead rock?

3 - Would a turnover rate of 15-20 times per hour work for this tank with a HOB filter? In addition to the filter media, I was planning on adding activated carbon, chaeto, and maybe copepods. Might have an air dirven filter on the other side of the tank to back it up and drive more effective circulation.

4 - I understand that saltwater tanks need daily 'top offs' of distilled/RO/equivalently pure water. You stop all the pumps, add enough distilled water to reach the original water level, and then set them going again...right?

5 - Any recommendations for reasonably idiot proof corals for this tank? I was going to use reef salts rather than plain saltwater(also, any species with palytoxin I should worry about? Would hate to unintentionally poison my mother with a gift!)

6 - Any suggestions for fish for this layout? I was shooting for just 1 or 2 fish in here to make it easier to keep the water pristine. (Also, in case we go that route...would a mated pair of clownfish be comfy in a 10, or would they bicker incessantly?)

 

Thankx for all the replies!

 

Congrats of the tank!

 

Corals generally grow under a bluer light because of the ocean's blue tint. Keep in mind that most corals are cnidarians and not plants, so that's a factor, too. Macros are also not quite plants (they're protists) but do well under daylight bulbs.

 

For rock, your LFS may have it. If not, go to BRS or Reefcleaners. LIve rock comes straight from the ocean, complete with hitch hikers which may be bad. Dead rock is artificial and dead.

 

As for the filtration, if you're doing an AGA 10, (standard 10), I will recommend an Oceanbox Designs insert or SOB Mini Sump. It will keep everything neat and tidy. Otherwise, an AC 70 or 110 will suffice. However, consider an IM 10. If you factor in the cost of an insert or HOB filter/ sump, it makes economical sense. With the IM 10, you shouldn't need much more flow, especially for Macros and Softies.

 

For top offs, you don't even need to kill the pumps. Just dump in fresh water- dechlorinated or distilled or RO/DI. Alternatively, purchase an ATO system. It will top off automatically for you. All you have to do is keep the reservoir full.

 

For corals, since you are planning on doing macros, I recommend softies and maybe some LPS. The softies and macros complement each other nicely with their swaying movements. Some indestructible corals are:

 

Xenia- be careful, this is a fast grower and may take over your tank

Green Star Polyps- same as Xenia;- may take over

Kenya Tree- may also take over

Mushrooms- forgiving, don't get red ones though, those are nasty

Zoa/Palys- they do have Palytoxin. As long as you're not dumb when handling them, you should be fine. Don't tear them and wash your hands after handling them. If for whatever reason toxin is released, do a 30% water change a replace your carbon.

 

Two clowns are max you can do for a 10. Clowns are messy, so I'd change 2 gallons a week.

 

I am by no means a macro expert, so stella or FlowerMama will hopefully chime in.

 

Good luck,

Nick

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Corals grow under a different spectrum than plants. Violets and blues are the best.

You want 10,000k or higher.

 

For 10g here are a few ideas

 

Coral compulsion full spectrum par38 dimmable, 1 bulb is plenty, screws into any light fixture.

 

Aquamaxx marine

Ai Prime

 

 

I've used all 3 with good results

 

Liverock or dry rock - LFS but i hear BRS dry rock is the best.

 

Filteration- 1 hob filter is plenty. I've used Aquaclear and Api Superclean. Both are good but i like that the superclean has 2 intakes with a surface skimmer. I only use it for floss and chemical filteration so I only use the sizes up to 30g.

 

Powerhead hydor 240 should be enough with the filter

 

Corals

 

Leathers - toadstools are great.

 

Xenia - can grow and spread so keep them seperate but easily fragged. I've never had them take over in any tank

 

Gsp - these are pretty but do indeed take over and grow over things. Not easily removed.

 

Zoas - very pretty and easy. Always use gloves and eyewear when handling zoas

 

Yuma or ricordia mushrooms- very easy and really beautiful

 

Frogspawn, hammers, brains, blastos are all great lps and not difficult

There is no need to turn off equipment when topping up.

 

Ensure you are using ro/di or distilled water for mixing saltwater for weekly water changes and for your freshwater top ups.

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Fish.

 

A low bioload is the best option for smaller tanks.

 

2 clowns is max and pushing it imo.

 

You could do a clown and something else thats small

 

You could do the options of a watchman goby, clown gobies, a blenny.

 

Inverts: trochus snails, spiny stars are my fav for glass and rocks

 

Ceriths and nassarius for sand

 

Astreas- i don't like. If the topple over and you don't right them, they die.

 

Hermit crabs - love scarlets and halloweens. Blue legged and zebras are good to.

 

Pom pom crab - just a cool addition

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So in aquariums my understanding is that corals can do fine under 5-6k temp bulbs of the appropriate intensity - 5000k white still has a peak at 450nm so it's not like they produce the "wrong" spectrum... I think the reason why they're never used much is because corals generally look like poop under them... Pretty much any coral is going to look brownish.

 

Macros have lots of green and red though so IME they look great under that color spectrum. I bought some Phillips LED bulbs on clearance at Home Depot in "daylight" 5500k and chaeto looks great.

 

Agree with what others have said on your other questions. How many macros are you thinking? I would be doing a lot of research on the various types of macros so you have a good idea of what conditions you'll need (i.e. sand bed type/depth, dosing, etc...).

 

Good luck! Macros are quite beautiful in their own right. The SW hobby isn't as developed on the macro front so there's lots of room for really cool experimentation and new ideas.

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AlmightyJoshaeus

Leaning towards chiefly a macroalgae tank (think 'densely planted') with perhaps a few easy soft/LPS corals. All my freshwater tanks are heavily planted, so I naturally tend to lean towards their salty 'counterparts'. Side note...any way to get a rough idea of how much light to use without resorting to a costly PAR meter?

 

Anyhow, my mother's health may occasionally prevent her from getting to the 20% weekly water change on time, so I think I will stick with either 1 clownfish sized fish or 2 tiny goby-ish fishes to give a wider margin of error on water quality (another reason not to emphasize nitrogen hating corals).

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AlmightyJoshaeus

Just bought an aquaclear 70 from my LFS (which has neither a marine section nor the 100, alas :( ) and some extra activated carbon for it. Going to quickly set to work buying supplies before all out winter sets in...live and/or dead sand and rock, heater, lighting, protein skimmer (?)...

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AlmightyJoshaeus

Just bought online several macroalgae 'frags', a 10000k light, 15 lbs dry rock, 20 lbs live sand (pretty sure I only need 10 lbs for the tank...what to do with the remaining 10 lbs? Hmmm...). Will be buying heater, 10 gallon, and reef salt in person, and will be waiting on buying corals and fish until a month or two down the road.

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You will need to cycle the tank before adding any livestock to it. With dry rock you will need to cause a cycle to start. Most do the ammonia dosing method.

 

You are correct, you only need 1.5 inches of sandbed and 10lbs of liverock.

 

The ac70 on a 10g is plenty of filteration.

 

You will need teat kits as well

*Test kits*

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AlmightyJoshaeus

Thankx for the reminder on the test kits! I admit, my freshwater tanks are frequently filtered only with plants, but I won't be trying this here (even though it theoretically could work if you were careful). The one to two months is to let it cycle before trying to add livestock.

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Macroalgae is a great source of nutrient export.

 

Really the hob filter is used in sw for chemical filteration, added water volume, added water movement, and some mod it into refugiums. It not used for biological filteration as it is in fw because your liverocks are the bio filter.

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