GFO or bio pellets.

[Jayva]

I'm getting an IM desktop media reactor tomorrow. Wondering what to fill it with.

 

I don't have high nitrates. Their never over 10. Because I don't feed heavy and do weekly water changes.

The reason I want to run the reactor is to kill off any threat of undesirable algae. (Plus I'm getting it free from a friend) he's giving me a big bag of biomaxxx all in one. And another packet of GFO I don't know which brand.

 

But I read horror story's of pellets crashing tanks and creating clouds. Starving coral etc.

 

Please help. It's a IM fusion 20 gallon.

[seabass]

Generally phosphate is a bigger concern than nitrate when it comes to algae. What's your tank's current phosphate level? If using GFO, you should be testing because you don't want it too low, or too high. Also, carbon dosing can cause its own problems.

[Jayva]

Generally phosphate is a bigger concern than nitrate when it comes to algae. What's your tank's current phosphate level? If using GFO, you should be testing because you don't want it too low, or too high. Also, carbon dosing can cause its own problems.

I don't know I'm waiting for my phos kit to come in the mail. I am running a packet of Seachem phosgaurd tho. No ill effects corals are fine. Maybe I'll just run the pellets. Or pour the phosgaurd in the reactor.

[seabass]

Make sure you monitor it whenever using phosphate reducing media (you want phosphate detectable but no higher than 0.03ppm). Also, GFO can reduce alkalinity, so monitor that as well.

[mystersyster]

Make sure you monitor it whenever using phosphate reducing media (you want phosphate detectable but no higher than 0.03ppm). Also, GFO can reduce alkalinity, so monitor that as well.

+1 GFO is powerful stuff and will quickly strip out trace elements of overused. Water changes are definitely going to need to be done more often to replace trace elememts. I would start out with have the recommended amount once you are testing for GFO and see how that works.

[Najay343]

I debated this myself. Both have many cons. Many times I'm seeing people run both GFO and BioPellets. Personally I had nothing but problems with bio pellets. However they are the easiest to maintain, don't grind down like carbon or make a huge mess like GFO like I experience with my desktop IM reactor.

 

My latest setup I switched to Using Macro Algae and Mangroves. Huge improvement and all natural nitrate/phosphate removal. I did also add the BRS mini reactor and ran it mixed 2/3 carbon and 1/3 GFO. It works amazing! BUT, only for about a week and then the flow reduces drastically until week three it needs to be changed out. Huge waste of GFO and carbon because it should only need to be changed 1 month for carbon and 3 for GFO and I can't make it past 3 weeks if even that. I believe this is because the GFO and carbon get packed too tight and debris gets clogged easier.

 

Starting tomorrow I am setting up a Phosban 150 with GFO and running my Carbon in my old IM reactor. I should get more life out of both doing it this way. Otherwise, the macro and mangroves keep my tank in check and running smooth.

 

25 Gallon IM Fusion Lagoon - Six fish two shrimp and one RBTA

 

Hope this helps. If anything definitely definitely do A LOT of research on Biopellets. Can be very bad if you don't understand them fully.

[Jayva]

Maybe I won't get it from him. I'm running a skimmer and I do weekly water changes. I think that's enough. I don't want the tank sterile.

 

I'm running a bag of phosgaurd and everything seems okay. But that stuff only lasts a few days I'll probably toss it out tomorrow after the water change. I just don't want diatoms hair algae cyano etc. I have a small clump of chaeto in the back chamber. And in my display I have beautiful dragons breath macro. I feed fish/corals every other day.

 

Yeah I'm gonna skip the reactor. If I need carbon I'll toss a carbon bag in there a few days. Thanks everyone

[IronChefItaly]

I would go so far to say that the majority of poor experiences with GFO, pellets and other PO4/NO3 reducing additives are due to a lack of understanding and implementation. Each method has its pros and cons and while some work good in unison, others are not compatible. The most common upset seems to take place when a person too quickly implements a nutrient control method on a well established reef. There is simply no "best" method for everyone and some have much more room for error while others like GFO can be devastating in overdone. In my experiences, phosguard is simple and best applied to small systems or low bioloads as it quickly becomes costly. Next, you'll move into the range where GFO is most economical but somewhere around 100+ gallons pellets grow in popularity. If you want plainly unbiased information, see the links below and hopefully that will encourage you to find other articles of their like. Last bit of advice, when implementing nearly anything from activated carbon to a full on zeovit program start slow. Particularly if no incremental chart is provided with the product, start at say 20% of the recommended amount and work your way up while monitoring your system for issues. Best of luck!

 

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/2/chemistry