Brown hair algae?

[IBroughtPopcorn]

I have been fighting this and it appears I am losing the battle. I believe the problem is over feeding. My wife and I both feed the one fish twice a day. I didn't know she was and she didn't know I was. I have tried using my turkey baster and made most of the algae suspended in the water and then do a 50% water change. An hour ago I used the baster with the hopes it would be caught in the filter floss. It didn't work. I have the intank media basket with Filter floss->GFO->carbon. I change the floss 2-3 times a week. I have an intank fuge. I am running a 100w LED at 50% and have it set to auto sunrise and sunset.

 

I just used the baster about an hour ago and it looks worse now. Brown hair algae is taking over. I am new to the hobby, so any info is appreciated. How do I get this under control? Also my parameters are within recommendations, andI have 4 crabs 8 snails and a peppermint shrimp. I have tried to upload pics but they are too big.

[Sal10104]

I would try feeding only once a week. I would assume if you overfed for a while and now are removing the phosphate quickly that it is in your rock and needs to leach out. You said your new. Usually newer tanks grow algae. its good that you found out what is causing it. I would run a reactor if you have the money. They make the GFO a lot more effective by not allowing water to pass around the GFO. If you can't stand the look of the algae you always can take a toothbrush and some peroxide and brush it off. It shouldn't come back after that.

[Clown79]

How old is the tank?

What size is the tank?

 

Any fish and corals in it?

 

What water source are you using?

 

Do you vacuum your sand, if you have an hob do you clean it monthly?

 

 

What are your nitrate and phos levels?

 

There could be multiple factors for the nutrient levels in your tank, not just over feeding

[Cencalfishguy56]

I have been fighting this and it appears I am losing the battle. I believe the problem is over feeding. My wife and I both feed the one fish twice a day. I didn't know she was and she didn't know I was. I have tried using my turkey baster and made most of the algae suspended in the water and then do a 50% water change. An hour ago I used the baster with the hopes it would be caught in the filter floss. It didn't work. I have the intank media basket with Filter floss->GFO->carbon. I change the floss 2-3 times a week. I have an intank fuge. I am running a 100w LED at 50% and have it set to auto sunrise and sunset.

 

I just used the baster about an hour ago and it looks worse now. Brown hair algae is taking over. I am new to the hobby, so any info is appreciated. How do I get this under control? Also my parameters are within recommendations, andI have 4 crabs 8 snails and a peppermint shrimp. I have tried to upload pics but they are too big.

all questions above and where is your rock from?

[IBroughtPopcorn]

How old is the tank?

What size is the tank?

Any fish and corals in it?

What water source are you using?

Do you vacuum your sand, if you have an hob do you clean it monthly?

What are your nitrate and phos levels?

There could be multiple factors for the nutrient levels in your tank, not just over feeding

Its a 29 BioCube

One royal gramma

2 small frags of Green Star Polyp

RO/DI

I do not vacuum my sand, I thought that was bad because of dietris.

I change the media in my InTank once a month. I change the filter floss 2-3 weekly

Nitrate is 10 now, but it has been 20-40 for a month

Phosphate is 0

I was told that my tank completed the cycle June 10th. So I guess my tank is 2 months old if you don't consider the 4-5 weeks for cycling.

My rock was from the LFS and that's all I know about it.

[NYfishies]

Toss a few Turbo Snails in there. They will mow it down.

[Clown79]

If the sandbed isn't deep, lightly vacuuming it is beneficial.

 

If you don't vacuum the sandbed and choose to do so now, start slowly, small sections with each water change until its routine.

 

You will need to scrape and syphon out the algae

 

What phos test kit are you using?

Try outting some aand in when you test phos.

That was, try putting some sand in the test tube when testing phos.

 

Your tests will be 0 because the algae is absorbing it.

[IBroughtPopcorn]

Ok so I turned my light off yesterday before I left for work. Last night when I go home, there was a huge improvement. This morning I turned the lights to 10% and I noticed that it appears the "algae" is suspended in the water. The new filter loss was a shade of brown, so I changed it. Will there be any repercussions for leaving my lights off for a few days? I wish I could upload a video for you to see what I am talking about. I am sure the video would be helpful in this situation.

 

Thank you all for your help. This hobby is proving to be stressful. I hope it gets better soon.

[Cencalfishguy56]

Ok so I turned my light off yesterday before I left for work. Last night when I go home, there was a huge improvement. This morning I turned the lights to 10% and I noticed that it appears the "algae" is suspended in the water. The new filter loss was a shade of brown, so I changed it. Will there be any repercussions for leaving my lights off for a few days? I wish I could upload a video for you to see what I am talking about. I am sure the video would be helpful in this situation.

 

Thank you all for your help. This hobby is proving to be stressful. I hope it gets better soon.

my beginning was rough, look at my current build, in time it will worth it!

[xAyanex]

I also have a 29 Biocube that is also very new! Just started in May.

 

My tank went through a somewhat similar phase, with lots of brown algae (diatoms) as you can see in the pictures in my thread. I don't particularly overfeed a huge amount, but I do feed every other day to every day which is overfeeding. Part of the reason I feed so often is I have nassarius snails that otherwise wouldn't get food since I feed in such tiny pinches (because my clown is really a pig that would eat forever! )

 

I didn't mind the diatoms, but eventually the tank had brown hair algae like you've decribed, and it felt like a losing battle. I cut back on feeding, kept on my regular water changes/maintenance, and cut back on my hours of light. Eventually, the algae ran its course and is finally dying off (hence I'm finally posting pictures again-I was embarrassed because I know it was partly my fault the algae was thriving, and partly because the tank is new and just goes through ugly stages for a long time).

 

To sum this up, feeding less, water changes, less light, and time helped my tank. Patience is the name of the game. Again, I am NEW and don't know half the stuff seasoned reefers know, but I do have a very recent and similar experience so I thought it would be worthwhile to share anyway.

[IBroughtPopcorn]

This morning I turned my lights on. The tank looked great again! I decided to leave the lights on at 40% and I checked the parameters. I am very happy my parameters are fine. However, after 3-4 hours of light, the enemy started to make its return. My sand started turning brown again. I shut off the lights and I came to work. I haven't feed my royal gramma in 3 days. I will feed him tonight when I get home. I only feed him Mysis shrimp, which are mostly water. BRS has a video that said to cut back on my red and yellow spectrum. What do you guys think? I hope my tank finds a medium and I can leave my light on for longer than a few hours a day. I hoped to get some more soft corals and maybe some LPS. Would it be silly to buy some zoanthids? Are there any corals I should buy that could help with eliminating diatoms?

[Cencalfishguy56]

This morning I turned my lights on. The tank looked great again! I decided to leave the lights on at 40% and I checked the parameters. I am very happy my parameters are fine. However, after 3-4 hours of light, the enemy started to make its return. My sand started turning brown again. I shut off the lights and I came to work. I haven't feed my royal gramma in 3 days. I will feed him tonight when I get home. I only feed him Mysis shrimp, which are mostly water. BRS has a video that said to cut back on my red and yellow spectrum. What do you guys think? I hope my tank finds a medium and I can leave my light on for longer than a few hours a day. I hoped to get some more soft corals and maybe some LPS. Would it be silly to buy some zoanthids? Are there any corals I should buy that could help with eliminating diatoms?

i honestly think it's your rock, LFS is suspect, my first build was with LFS dry rock and it was a nightmare

[xAyanex]

You just have to do everything you can, and then it's just a waiting game. Called patience.

[seabass]

I guarantee that you have a phosphate problem. Did you know that all food (uneaten and eaten) introduces phosphate into your system?

 

And while algae blooms consume available inorganic phosphate from the water, I'd still be surprised if the phosphate level was 0.00ppm.

 

You need a low range phosphate test kit. API's kit is a high range kit and goes up in 0.25ppm increments. The target range is 0.03ppm phosphate (10ppb phosphorus) or less, but still detectable.

 

I recommend either a Salifert phosphate test kit, or Hanna ULR Phosphorus Checker. The Hanna has a digital readout and let's you know where in the recommended range you are at. The Salifert just allows you to check against 0.03ppm (so you want a blueish tinge, but not any darker than 0.03ppm on the chart).

 

It's important not to strip too much phosphate out of the water, as the zooxanthellae in coral use it to produce energy for the coral. Therefore, you have to monitor phosphate when using phosphate reducing media (in order to know when to change it out, and when to stop using it).

 

Brown hair algae? Can you please post a picture of it for us? Could be dinos or something else, which might require a different approach.

[metrokat]

I use Brightwell Xport-PO4 for phosphate control. Does not require a reactor and you can place it in the media basket.

[IBroughtPopcorn]

I guarantee that you have a phosphate problem. Did you know that all food (uneaten and eaten) introduces phosphate into your system?

 

And while algae blooms consume available inorganic phosphate from the water, I'd still be surprised if the phosphate level was 0.00ppm.

 

You need a low range phosphate test kit. API's kit is a high range kit and goes up in 0.25ppm increments. The target range is 0.03ppm phosphate (10ppb phosphorus) or less, but still detectable.

 

I recommend either a Salifert phosphate test kit, or Hanna ULR Phosphorus Checker. The Hanna has a digital readout and let's you know where in the recommended range you are at. The Salifert just allows you to check against 0.03ppm (so you want a blueish tinge, but not any darker than 0.03ppm on the chart).

 

It's important not to strip too much phosphate out of the water, as the zooxanthellae in coral use it to produce energy for the coral. Therefore, you have to monitor phosphate when using phosphate reducing media (in order to know when to change it out, and when to stop using it).

 

Brown hair algae? Can you please post a picture of it for us? Could be dinos or something else, which might require a different approach.

 

Thank you seabass. I will be getting a low range Testing device asap. I watched a video by BRS and in the video he suggests the yellow and red channels could be turned down. I tried it. In fact I turned all five of my channels down and now the algae is nearly gone, and my fish are more visable. I guess 50% of a 100W LED chip is too much. I am down to about 30% with the red and yellow channels to about 10%.

 

I still think you're right and I have phosphate in my tank. I don't understand why API would not include a low range test kit in the salt water master kit.

[Clown79]

The lighting isn't the cause of the algae, it just contributes to it growth and spread.

Nutrient levels are usually the main cause of algae and other things like light, fuel it.

 

Everyone who has had an algae issue will notice that during photosynthetic periods- the algae worsens.

 

I had this with diatoms and cyano.

Lights off=pristine tank

Lights on= algae everywhere and worse as the hours grew.

 

Preventative measures, locating the cause, and diligent maintenance will help.

[IBroughtPopcorn]

I was told that doing 50% water changes every week is causing my tank to continually cycle. I have a 29 BC and it is about 20 gal of SW. I have been changing 10 gal every week. He said that is why I am having the diatom problem. Is this legit?

[seabass]

I was told that doing 50% water changes every week is causing my tank to continually cycle. I have a 29 BC and it is about 20 gal of SW. I have been changing 10 gal every week. He said that is why I am having the diatom problem. Is this legit?

This person doesn't know what they are talking about. A "cycle" is commonly referred to as an ammonia spike. While this is an incorrect usage of the term, it is still widely understood. But unless your tank has had detectable ammonia for the last 3 months, your tank isn't continually "cycling". Although it's true that water changes, during the initial "cycle", will extend the time it takes before ammonia becomes undetectable.

 

 

The nitrogen cycle is actually a continuous thing (a cycle). It is the process where ammonia is broken down (by nitrifying bacteria) into nitrite, then the nitrite is broken down into nitrate. Then finally, nitrate is broken down (by denitrifying bacteria) into nitrogen gas. This last step (denitrification) is often incomplete in our nano reefs, and we export excess nitrate via water changes.

 

Most salt mixes (due to contaminants in magnesium chloride and calcium chloride) produce a little ammonia when mixed. It's often enough to detect with our test kits. However, this generally isn't a problem, as a healthy biofilter can usually process this ammonia in relatively short order. But if your salt mix produces a larger than normal amount of ammonia, it could potentially help fuel algae growth.

 

However, diatom blooms are fueled by silicate. This could come from a new sand bed or a bad water source. If your RO/DI unit is poorly maintained, you could be adding silicate with every water change. What is the TDS of your RO/DI water?

 

The other question is, do you have a diatom bloom, dinoflagellates, cyanobacteria, or some other brownish (macro or micro) algae? They are different, have different causes, and require different methods of resolution.

 

But to specifically answer your question (in general, assuming good salt and good water), weekly 50% water changes shouldn't be causing any problems. Many pico owners do 100% water changes every week without issues.

[Clown79]

^ exactly.

[seabass]

One more thing. If you have dinos, it is reported that water changes can help fuel the bloom.

 

Can you post a picture for us, so that we can better know what you are dealing with?

[Clown79]

Please post pic. It will help determine what algae you have and how to proceed.

 

I have heard the same about dino's. Wc can fuel them, I found the same with diatoms when i set up my 15g.

[IBroughtPopcorn]

I turned down the intensity of my red/violet and yellow spectrum on my 100W led chip. In fact I turned the other channels down also. I am now running about 10% on the red/violet and yellow channels and about 30% on the other three channels. I have been doing this for about a week and it has help tremendously.

 

As far as a picture goes, I will take one the next time it gets bad. I am now 95% sure it is Dino because of the pics you guys provided me. Also it produces bubbles, another trait of Dino. Thank you guys for the help. I am sure the change in light doesn't get rid of the problem, but it seems to prevent it from growing faster than my tank can handle.

[seabass]

It is important to make a positive ID, since treatments can get a little extreme (and potentially cause losses to beneficial life and other livestock). Dinos are a single celled protozoa, so you can't think of them as you would algae (seeing less of them doesn't necessarily indicate they are dwindling on numbers). Your changes in lighting might be affecting how they are grouped together, but they are probably still fine and are just free swimming, waiting for conditions to be right for another bloom. This could come from a water change, disturbing the substrate, improved lighting...

 

I wish I had the magic bullet for getting rid of it, as I'm dealing with it myself (currently no signs of it, but I've fallen for that before). It's sort of like an alcoholic that's not currently drinking, it doesn't mean he's not an alcoholic anymore.

 

A lot of smart reefers will tell you to pitch everything (rocks, corals, sand, and water) and start from scratch. However, I still remain hopeful. I've tried Dino X, reducing the photo period, running just blue lights, blackouts, UV, peroxide, cleaning, not cleaning, water changes, no water changes, etc. I haven't tried increasing pH levels yet.

 

Not all varieties of dinos are the same or respond to the same treatment protocols. However, here is what I've personally found.

• Dino X did nothing positive to improve my particular situation.
• Cleaning and water changes only temporarily improve how your tank looks, but you are better off avoiding these disruptions while you fight it off. However, doing nothing is not a cure either.
• A UV pond filter does seem to help, but it didn't eradicate the dinos (this is a good addition to any treatment protocol).
• Dipping the rocks in a salty peroxide solution made the rocks free of dinos, but it did not make my tank free of dinos (so it returned).
• Lighting changes just affected how they group together, but don't get rid of them. However, lighting and the light cycle is very important in how/when you fight this pest. They are much more susceptible to treatment when they are free swimming.
• Dosing peroxide has to be done with the lights out (when they are free swimming). I only use food grade peroxide, as it doesn't contain potentially harmful stabilizers. 1ml per 10 gallons of tank water is considered safe for fish and many corals and anemones. There are, however, peroxide sensitive creatures like pods and shrimp which could be harmed with peroxide treatments. I have been dosing an equivalent of 2ml of 3% peroxide per 10 gallons of tank water during lights out.

Remember this is an alternative to breaking down my tank, so I am willing to be a little more extreme and risk some losses. Also, activated carbon might help reduce the toxicity of the dying dinos, so I would consider running fresh GAC during treatments (although I'm not currently doing this).

[IBroughtPopcorn]

 

It is important to make a positive ID

 

 

I am not so sure it's Dino after seeing another post from today. Now I understand what you are referring to when you say stick together and free swim in the dark.

 

I turned my lights back to the settings that I was using when I had the bloom. I also turned the auto sunrise and sunset back on. I had it off and was leaving my lights on for 8 hrs a day.

 

As much as I don't want to see the stuff come back, I want to be able to identify the problem. I am having trouble producing a quality picture of my tank in general. I can't seem to get a picture that looks life like. I am using an iPhone 6, is there is a setting I can change? Or do I need to buy a camera?