Choosing equipment for NUVO 10 - new build. Advice?

[anizato]

Hey everyone,

 

I am starting to choose things for a NUVO 10... I haven't purchased anything yet, but will begin shopping in about 10 days , so none of these items are final ...yet.

 

This nano will house a Flurry Snowflake Clownfish and a large 6" Acid Rain Anemone. Maybe later a Mandarin Goby Dragonet (pod factory in basement) haven't decided if this is a good idea.

 

But I need help and advice on selecting the equipment. Any input, suggestions, comments are very much welcomed and appreciated (:

 

LIGHTING : AI Prime HD $225 vs Kessil A160 $239 (I already have a spectral controller running on my larger system, only using one channel, since they will be placed next to each other, it makes it possibly a good idea)

 

HEATER : Undecided

 

FLOW: MJ1200 (295GPH) $40.99 vs Compact+ 2000 Eheim (264-528GPH) $80.96 vs. Syncra Sicce 1.5 (357GPH) $70.99

Ideally the flow should come from the return strong enough to not need a powerhead in the display. How to accomplish this without having cyano problems or making sure detritus doesn't sink in display. Otherwise a used MP10 or MP40 (so I can use the MP10 I already have) would have to do it.

 

ATO : Aqua Gadget Titanium Controller $69.99 + Aqua Lifter Vaccum Pump $18.99 ($88.98) vs Osmolator Tunze Nano $99.37 vs AutoAqua Smart Ato Micro $124.99

 

Think I am missing something?

 

Happy reefing!

[Hexilios]

Have this tank

 

No to the mandarin goby, absolutely not!

 

200gph is the max you want on your return with a spin stream, get a ball valve : little fishies 1/2" ball valve is best.

 

This tank is to small to handle anything more then a total turn over of 35x or 40x. Makes keeping a mixed reef really hard.

 

No more then 2 table spoons of carbon + purigen, do not use chemipure elite or blue.

 

!!!Smart micro ATO!!!

 

Unless you have an RODI system forget it.

[Mariaface]

Sicce Syncra Silent 1.0? You really don't want the return to be TOO fast, because it'll cause the display to rise in level, cause a bigger difference in height when the water falls into the back (splashing noises), etc. Slower flow through filtration can also be more efficient, up to a certain point? And the anemone likely won't appreciate SPS level flow.

 

For the footprint of the Fusion 10, I think either light will treat you just fine.

 

Cobalt Neotherm 50 to 75W, depending on how much space you have (75W jumps in height, if I remember correctly). I love the thin profile.

 

Tunze nano or Smart Micro ATO. Micro may be much better for your tank, with the smaller evaporation window before it kicks in. And if you keep the smaller ceriths at all, trust me when I say they'll get through the overflow teeth..

[anizato]

Have this tank

 

No to the mandarin goby, absolutely not!

 

 

Boo. Glad I asked. Why, is the tank too small? I have plenty of pods, 3 buckets producing thousands a week. My large system is overdosed on pods, not a bad thing. My 2 leopard wrasse are all about it.

 

Sicce Syncra Silent 1.0? You really don't want the return to be TOO fast, because it'll cause the display to rise in level, cause a bigger difference in height when the water falls into the back (splashing noises), etc. Slower flow through filtration can also be more efficient, up to a certain point? And the anemone likely won't appreciate SPS level flow.

...

Tunze nano or Smart Micro ATO. Micro may be much better for your tank, with the smaller evaporation window before it kicks in. And if you keep the smaller ceriths at all, trust me when I say they'll get through the overflow teeth..

 

 

So maybe Ill keep the stock pump and see how that works. I don't think I will keep any SPS in there. I want to focus on getting an anemone fat and happy. Maybe some Zoas and GSP to help with parameters.

What pump would you add to avoid putting anything in the display?

 

So the Micro sensor is more precise than the Tunze?

[Cencalfishguy56]

Have this tank

 

No to the mandarin goby, absolutely not!

 

200gph is the max you want on your return with a spin stream, get a ball valve : little fishies 1/2" ball valve is best.

 

This tank is to small to handle anything more then a total turn over of 35x or 40x. Makes keeping a mixed reef really hard.

 

No more then 2 table spoons of carbon + purigen, do not use chemipure elite or blue.

 

!!!Smart micro ATO!!!

 

Unless you have an RODI system forget it.

absolutely not can be disproven, on this very forum lol

[Hexilios]

What specifically Cencal? Not much of an actual response . . . lol

 

If you got the pods go for it but still it's a small tank, you're only going to want a few fish.

[Tamberav]

 

Boo. Glad I asked. Why, is the tank too small? I have plenty of pods, 3 buckets producing thousands a week. My large system is overdosed on pods, not a bad thing. My 2 leopard wrasse are all about it.

 

 

 

So maybe Ill keep the stock pump and see how that works. I don't think I will keep any SPS in there. I want to focus on getting an anemone fat and happy. Maybe some Zoas and GSP to help with parameters.

What pump would you add to avoid putting anything in the display?

 

So the Micro sensor is more precise than the Tunze?

 

I would still do supplemental feeding which may be an issue to keep water quality with your nem. When dosing pods, most end up in the filter floss where the mandy can't get to them. You also need a way to catch a large number. It will outgrow the tank if you keep it alive long enough. Be aware of the challenges.

 

I would personally focus on either the nem or the mandarin. Mostly because I feel they both thrive under different conditions.

[anizato]

 

I would personally focus on either the nem or the mandarin. Mostly because I feel they both thrive under different conditions.

 

 

The focus of the tank is the nem and the clownfish, so then I will definitely pass on the Mandarin. Maybe I will add a goby pistol shrimp pair instead, to keep it entertaining ...because of course, a clownfish and a nem are not entertainment enough... Unless anybody has any suggestions otherwise. Would you keep it only clown+nem?

[n0rcal2wheeler]

Have this tank

 

No to the mandarin goby, absolutely not!

 

200gph is the max you want on your return with a spin stream, get a ball valve : little fishies 1/2" ball valve is best.

 

This tank is to small to handle anything more then a total turn over of 35x or 40x. Makes keeping a mixed reef really hard.

 

No more then 2 table spoons of carbon + purigen, do not use chemipure elite or blue.

 

!!!Smart micro ATO!!!

 

Unless you have an RODI system forget it.

curious about the no chemipure elite or blue?

[Hexilios]

Chemipure blue is just chemipure with purigen in it, elite has resins that do nothing in saltwater. Either way certain things exhaust faster in both products, resulting in less then optimal stability in the long run.

[anizato]

So I am about to make the plunge into this tank.

So far in my shopping cart I have:

 

IM Nuvo 10 Tank Only - $99.99

10lb Fiji Pink Sand - $23.99

100ml Bio-Spira - $14.99

100w Finnex Heater - $34.99

AI Prime HD LED White - $225

AI Prime Tank Mount - $29.99 (this is theft)

Smart ATO Micro - $124.99

1/2" Ball Valve $3.99

Spin Stream Nozzle $23.99

 

TOTAL (so far) $580.92

 

I am still considering leaving the stock pump and maybe add or replace it with something down the road, or not, we will see.

 

What do you guys think? Aside from the rock from my LFS, the Nem and the Flurry Clownfish I should be set right?

How much rock should I put in this puppy? Since I won't have a skimmer or anything fancy for filtration but a MediaBasket how can I have a proper balance between rock/water volume?

 

Happy reefing!

[Hexilios]

I'd recommend :

 

2 feet of 1/2" tubing just in case you mess up your cuts, measure twice cut once!

 

50W heater instead of 100w, maybe cobalt 50w, much smaller and more reliable ( less stuff can break/fail ).

 

200gph pump for the return, the 1/2" ball valve will let you tune this to the optimal flow pattern ( the spin stream rotation speed directly correlates to the amount of flow through the device! ).

 

160gph power head for inside the display to create more turbulence ( generally aimed upwards from beneath the live rock pile ), mine is on a random timer.

[Obsessed Reefer]

I would definitely recommend replacing the stock pump. For amount of rock, it's what looks best to you. Different types of rocks will get you more weight for less amount of rock, depending on how pourus it is. Typically though, 8-12 pounds is a place to start.

[anizato]

I would definitely recommend replacing the stock pump. For amount of rock, it's what looks best to you. Different types of rocks will get you more weight for less amount of rock, depending on how pourus it is. Typically though, 8-12 pounds is a place to start.

 

What would you replace the stock pump with?

I was considering adding an MP10 in the display, but ideally I would love to figure out a way to avoid having ANY equipment in the display at all. Hopefully the spin stream Nozzle will do the job with a proper return pump.

 

 

I'd recommend :

 

2 feet of 1/2" tubing just in case you mess up your cuts, measure twice cut once!

 

50W heater instead of 100w, maybe cobalt 50w, much smaller and more reliable ( less stuff can break/fail ).

 

200gph pump for the return, the 1/2" ball valve will let you tune this to the optimal flow pattern ( the spin stream rotation speed directly correlates to the amount of flow through the device! )

When you say 'measure' & 'cut' do you mean replace the stock return tube for the flexible tubing altogether or what?

 

I thought the Cobalt heater melted constantly and wasn't such a reliable heater, is this not the case? I have heard so many mixed reviews but mostly bad, which is why I am having such a difficult time selecting one.

[Tamberav]

 

 

What would you replace the stock pump with?

I was considering adding an MP10 in the display, but ideally I would love to figure out a way to avoid having ANY equipment in the display at all. Hopefully the spin stream Nozzle will do the job with a proper return pump.

 

 

 

When you say 'measure' & 'cut' do you mean replace the stock return tube for the flexible tubing altogether or what?

 

I thought the Cobalt heater melted constantly and wasn't such a reliable heater, is this not the case? I have heard so many mixed reviews but mostly bad, which is why I am having such a difficult time selecting one.

 

I saw the melting issue too. I have two of these I bought used and no issues so far. I haven't seen anyone complain on nano-reef even though many many people use colbalt here. When looking at the BRS website reviews, it seems to be the 200w that is causing most of the problems. I don't even see the 200w listed for sale on BRS or Marine Depot anymore. I wonder if they recalled it?

 

I totally get your concern though. Whichever heater you go with, I would do something less powerful.

[Hexilios]

The Cobalt's that were melting down were not 50W and that was ~6 years ago mostly, there was a recall, they don't really have that problem anymore for the most part.

[Cencalfishguy56]

What specifically Cencal? Not much of an actual response . . . lol

 

If you got the pods go for it but still it's a small tank, you're only going to want a few fish.

should have tagged me, I barely saw this but there was a thread on here of someone with a standard ten who ran a macro only tank dense with macros and sustained a mandarin for 1.5 years, I can't find it, I'll keep looking, it's doable but definitely would have to be a dedicated tank or pods gallore

[Cintax]

should have tagged me, I barely saw this but there was a thread on here of someone with a standard ten who ran a macro only tank dense with macros and sustained a mandarin for 1.5 years, I can't find it, I'll keep looking, it's doable but definitely would have to be a dedicated tank or pods gallore

 

 

Was it Altolamprologus?

[Hexilios]

should have tagged me, I barely saw this but there was a thread on here of someone with a standard ten who ran a macro only tank dense with macros and sustained a mandarin for 1.5 years, I can't find it, I'll keep looking, it's doable but definitely would have to be a dedicated tank or pods gallore

 

Ahh kk, yea no debate there! I wouldn't really consider that a desirable setup personally.

[anizato]

PURCHASE HAS BEEN MADE!!

[Cencalfishguy56]

 

Ahh kk, yea no debate there! I wouldn't really consider that a desirable setup personally.

i feel you on that lol but I mean I love mandarins, guess I'll just wait for a big tank once I'm done with grad school lol nice excuse if you ask me

 

 

Was it Altolamprologus?

might have been I can't remember lol

[anizato]

So while the tank arrives, we have to figure out what filtration method to use. I am completely open to suggestions on this.

 

I was thinking an InTank media basket, or the IM filter sock (but how do you clean it without breaking the plastic of felt?) was also thinking of a zeovit media (but am not familiar with this company besides Youtube vids). As for carbon I will be using Bulk's Carbon ROX, same as my larger system, every other month. God without a reactor? (Is gfo necessary?) I don't want a skimmer since it will be lightly stocked.

I'm curious about your suggestions.

[Hexilios]

Your primary method of driving the nitrogen cycle is your live rock. That's why I intermittently run a power head of about ~160gph inside the rock work, it's a night and day difference, although I don't have sand.

 

Too many people try and rely on mechanical filtration ( ala freshwater ) and leave their medium in too long ( sock or filter floss, etc ), creating a nitrate factory or over doing the carbon . . . or not changing the carbon.

[anizato]

So if I wanted to create a pod population, how would we accomplish this? Would I have to go the InTank fuge basket route with chaeto? Or is there a better way?

As for the filter sock I am unsure of using it because I wouldn't know how to clean it every week. I use the washing machine for the large tank filter socks, but they don't have a plastic holder that could break.

First I was considering the Media Basket but I came up with the pod route instead. Which is why the Fuge Basket idea popped into my head. I was imagining the Chaeto route with the Fuge light etc, but problem is, I don't know how to get them from population into the display without ending up in the filter floss. Is this possible? Any ideas?

I figure the tank will cycle about 3 weeks with live rock, should give me a window of enough time to figure something out.

[Hexilios]

You have to replace your mechanical filtration every 2 - 3 days, not once a week! I do not reuse filter floss because it's cheep and rinsing it doesn't dislodge all the detritus which will continue to break down into nitrates.

 

Cleaning a filter sock can be done with bleach or hydrogen peroxide, let dry, rinse in RODI, let dry, rinse again, etc. Some people throw theirs in the washing machine. You will need more then one sock to rotate with.

 

Look up HOB DIY Refuges