BlueAcro Led's

[Reefkid88]

https://blueacro.com/acrostar/

 

Anyone heard of them,seen 'em ? I firstsy them today advertised on Instagram. Besides the layout the diode choice isn't too bad and the price is even better.

[Horerczy]

They're interesting.

 

Would rather see the Luxeon C line used for the dedicated thermal pad. And the freshwater mix is weird.

 

Though I do like the idea of large numbers of small arrays.

[HM3105]

https://blueacro.com/acrostar/

 

Anyone heard of them,seen 'em ? I firstsy them today advertised on Instagram. Besides the layout the diode choice isn't too bad and the price is even better.

 

I'm thinking about using 11 of these for my new build. I PM'd the guy on R2R and he's been very helpful. He has some PAR maps and such which might help. They seem interesting...

[Reefkid88]

 

I'm thinking about using 11 of these for my new build. I PM'd the guy on R2R and he's been very helpful. He has some PAR maps and such which might help. They seem interesting...

I just feel like the array should be evenly dispersed as much as possible,like on the bigger arrays instead of clustered together,no ? All in all,not too shabby though.

They're interesting.

 

Would rather see the Luxeon C line used for the dedicated thermal pad. And the freshwater mix is weird.

 

Though I do like the idea of large numbers of small arrays.

I do give them credit though for using better whites than most (excluding Dave).

[HM3105]

I just feel like the array should be evenly dispersed as much as possible,like on the bigger arrays instead of clustered together,no ? All in all,not too shabby though.

 

I do give them credit though for using better whites than most (excluding Dave).

 

Negative, you want those LEDs clustered together otherwise you get color banding. It's the same concept behind Evil Clusters, Radions, etc. The BlueAcro guys include an optional 50 degree reflector with a diffuser that is supposed to help with the shadowing. I've yet to try these but I am intrigued by it. I think the reason I like these is just because they're round which can make for some interesting mounting options. Horerczy or JBB can probably correct me on all this though..

[Rural]

Looked neat. Any ideas on total price for build and that par map?

[Reefkid88]

 

Negative, you want those LEDs clustered together otherwise you get color banding. It's the same concept behind Evil Clusters, Radions, etc. The BlueAcro guys include an optional 50 degree reflector with a diffuser that is supposed to help with the shadowing. I've yet to try these but I am intrigued by it. I think the reason I like these is just because they're round which can make for some interesting mounting options. Horerczy or JBB can probably correct me on all this though..

So,youre saying the way the guys cluster the whites together,blues,ect us better than how we typically situate and array ? The reflector and diffuser isn't all that bad to be bought seperately although whole kit and price would be nice.

Looked neat. Any ideas on total price for build and that par map?

I would assume relatively cheap depending on what side tank you're trying to light.

[HM3105]

So,youre saying the way the guys cluster the whites together,blues,ect us better than how we typically situate and array ? The reflector and diffuser isn't all that bad to be bought seperately although whole kit and price would be nice.

 

I would assume relatively cheap depending on what side tank you're trying to light.

 

I believe it fits with how certain arrays are built. Even if you think about the Evergrow fixtures, those are clustered its just a bigger cluster =P. I currently run an Evil Cluster and love it so I am biased on the whole cluster thing.

 

The diffuser and reflector is just an add on. You can purchase it all in one go. I think it adds like $2-$3 depending on which array you build.

[Horerczy]

Multiple tight clusters is best. Keeps color banding to a minimum.

 

With these arrays I'd rather use the weaker arrays as I feel that having multiple arrays with lower output trump a few with higher output.

[theatrus]

Hiya! Looks like someone found my LEDs. Its an outgrowth of my own builds, polished, what I'm running on my tanks (including the planted - I agree its a weird sounding mix). I don't have a nano currently so I haven't been active here recently, but always itching to unmothball the ADA cube or get something a bit bigger. Happy to answer any questions, and since they are manufactured locally I can customize LED load outs (just with some longer lead time).

 

First off, I have preliminary PAR maps available - I'm being careful and taking a few units and multiple measurements to make sure there aren't any outliers, so these aren't final yet. These are all taken with an SQ-500 at 12inch height. to the reflector top (so about 2" beyond the LED). The sensor was kept vertical at all times, not pointed at the light source (so the further out from the LED, the reading given here is 10-20% lower than if the sensor was tilted to the LED). These are based on percentages - multiply in the percentage with the maximum PAR on the product list.

 

I also don't have a PAR map (yet) specific to the 16-up Mega4Z or one without the reflector mounted - the former is very very similar (same dimensions), and the latter is TBD.

 

 

As for the Luxeon C - we have a series of 2 channel 3 LED per channel, 4x0.5" mini-strips coming up featuring those LEDs - they weren't readily available in distribution (i.e., where low volume folks like aquarium lighting makers buy LEDs ) until pretty recently. We may switch the Half-Mega stars with them at some point, but not quite yet. The strips would be a better choice if you are mounting a light very close to the water and don't want to use a dense array due to the extreme shimmer it may produce, or are filling in with a single spectrum light. They feature the same push-in connectors (so no soldering, easy in, somewhat easy removal).

 

There are a few other projects in the works ancillary to the LEDs, including our Bluetooth-configured PWM lighting controller at significant discount to the normal wireless models.

[Horerczy]

Yay I love when creators get involved.

 

I have many questions that should help facilitate some discussion.

 

One thing I noticed when going back over the arrays shown. It lists the channels with the Lime Luxeon Z as having a max current of 1A but the Luxeon Z Color datasheets list the Lime Luxeon Z as having a max current of 700mA. I'm sure they can handle that level of overdriving with adequate heatsinking but it might not hurt to make that reflect manufacturer recommended spec.

 

As for the freshwater array I'm curious as to the use of the neutral white high CRI chips. Everything I've read on the freshwater forums has mixed lower CRI cool whites with high CRI warm whites with a blue or two to keep a cooler look.

 

I can totally understand the lack of availability of the Luxeon C being a driving force to use the Z.

[Reefkid88]

Hiya! Looks like someone found my LEDs. Its an outgrowth of my own builds, polished, what I'm running on my tanks (including the planted - I agree its a weird sounding mix). I don't have a nano currently so I haven't been active here recently, but always itching to unmothball the ADA cube or get something a bit bigger. Happy to answer any questions, and since they are manufactured locally I can customize LED load outs (just with some longer lead time).

 

First off, I have preliminary PAR maps available - I'm being careful and taking a few units and multiple measurements to make sure there aren't any outliers, so these aren't final yet. These are all taken with an SQ-500 at 12inch height. to the reflector top (so about 2" beyond the LED). The sensor was kept vertical at all times, not pointed at the light source (so the further out from the LED, the reading given here is 10-20% lower than if the sensor was tilted to the LED). These are based on percentages - multiply in the percentage with the maximum PAR on the product list.

 

I also don't have a PAR map (yet) specific to the 16-up Mega4Z or one without the reflector mounted - the former is very very similar (same dimensions), and the latter is TBD.

 

 

As for the Luxeon C - we have a series of 2 channel 3 LED per channel, 4x0.5" mini-strips coming up featuring those LEDs - they weren't readily available in distribution (i.e., where low volume folks like aquarium lighting makers buy LEDs ) until pretty recently. We may switch the Half-Mega stars with them at some point, but not quite yet. The strips would be a better choice if you are mounting a light very close to the water and don't want to use a dense array due to the extreme shimmer it may produce, or are filling in with a single spectrum light. They feature the same push-in connectors (so no soldering, easy in, somewhat easy removal).

 

There are a few other projects in the works ancillary to the LEDs, including our Bluetooth-configured PWM lighting controller at significant discount to the normal wireless models.

Its awesome that you are on here !!! Do you think that 1 24w 18k or 20k would good for a 8"x8" cube and have good par and spread ? Im trying to come up with as many viable lighting options for that particular tank and no I can add you guys to the very short list lok.

[HM3105]

Hiya! Looks like someone found my LEDs. Its an outgrowth of my own builds, polished, what I'm running on my tanks (including the planted - I agree its a weird sounding mix). I don't have a nano currently so I haven't been active here recently, but always itching to unmothball the ADA cube or get something a bit bigger. Happy to answer any questions, and since they are manufactured locally I can customize LED load outs (just with some longer lead time).

 

First off, I have preliminary PAR maps available - I'm being careful and taking a few units and multiple measurements to make sure there aren't any outliers, so these aren't final yet. These are all taken with an SQ-500 at 12inch height. to the reflector top (so about 2" beyond the LED). The sensor was kept vertical at all times, not pointed at the light source (so the further out from the LED, the reading given here is 10-20% lower than if the sensor was tilted to the LED). These are based on percentages - multiply in the percentage with the maximum PAR on the product list.

 

I also don't have a PAR map (yet) specific to the 16-up Mega4Z or one without the reflector mounted - the former is very very similar (same dimensions), and the latter is TBD.

 

 

As for the Luxeon C - we have a series of 2 channel 3 LED per channel, 4x0.5" mini-strips coming up featuring those LEDs - they weren't readily available in distribution (i.e., where low volume folks like aquarium lighting makers buy LEDs ) until pretty recently. We may switch the Half-Mega stars with them at some point, but not quite yet. The strips would be a better choice if you are mounting a light very close to the water and don't want to use a dense array due to the extreme shimmer it may produce, or are filling in with a single spectrum light. They feature the same push-in connectors (so no soldering, easy in, somewhat easy removal).

 

There are a few other projects in the works ancillary to the LEDs, including our Bluetooth-configured PWM lighting controller at significant discount to the normal wireless models.

 

On the max par for these, is that corrected for the heavy blue lights we use? I thought it was interesting that the other half mega which has the violet in it had a lower par then the 18k mega.

 

How does the PAR hold up at depth?

 

Also will these heatsinks be able to handle the half or full mega build outs with active cooling?

 

Extruded Aluminum Heatsink

Alloy: 6063-T5

Diameter: 2.00"

Circumference: 2.062"

Outer Perimeter: 24.353"

C/W/3": approximately 6.22

Weight per Inch: .18

 

Sorry I have a lot of questions

[theatrus]

PAR: The Apogee SQ-500 has a very flat response curve, and when comparing it to my SQ-120 sensor head (also used in most other PAR sensors from Apogee before the 500 series), it reads 450nm LEDs about 12% LOWER than the old SQ-120 (Electric Calibration).

 

As for PAR at depth, its pretty well directed downwards with the reflector. I'd expect a bit more spread than a lens design (less center hot spot). Taking some more numbers in various setups is still on my list.

 

As for those heatsinks, with active cooling, should be ok. You will have hot-spots where the LEDs are mounted since it only has two directions to travel - The full four channel is a pretty dense heat generator.

 

I've been qualifying a variant of the Half-Megas on a 2"round x 2" long chunk of the circular profile from HeatsinkUSA. With active cooling it actually does pretty well at 100% power, though I would need to be careful with airflow (and it turns into a molten slag of metal without active cooling .

 

 

On the max par for these, is that corrected for the heavy blue lights we use? I thought it was interesting that the other half mega which has the violet in it had a lower par then the 18k mega.

 

 

How does the PAR hold up at depth?

 

Also will these heatsinks be able to handle the half or full mega build outs with active cooling?

 

Extruded Aluminum Heatsink
Alloy: 6063-T5
Diameter: 2.00"
Circumference: 2.062"
Outer Perimeter: 24.353"
C/W/3": approximately 6.22
Weight per Inch: .18

 

Sorry I have a lot of questions

Its awesome that you are on here !!! Do you think that 1 24w 18k or 20k would good for a 8"x8" cube and have good par and spread ? Im trying to come up with as many viable lighting options for that particular tank and no I can add you guys to the very short list lok.

 

And yeah, for an 8x8x8 cube I think you'll be pretty happy with a Half-Mega. Plenty of PAR to the bottom even when mounted up about 6". You could also mount it closer if you went sans reflector.

 

Also, as to the violets: they just aren't as efficient as a 450nm, and start to fall on the falloff curve of the PAR sensor curves: they aren't major PAR generators. A lime will outshine them when read by the sensor.

[Reefkid88]

 

 

As for the Luxeon C - we have a series of 2 channel 3 LED per channel, 4x0.5" mini-strips coming up featuring those LEDs

 

Do you happen to have a rough eta on when the "mini-strips" will be available and what leds will be ran on them ?

[theatrus]

 

Do you happen to have a rough eta on when the "mini-strips" will be available and what leds will be ran on them ?

 

Expect to see them launched in about two weeks. My first target is a supplement strip, which is 3x royal blue on one channel, royal blue + 90 CRI 5700k white + Blue on the other channel. A 5x RB + 1x Blue (just the blues!) option is also ready.

 

The full gamut of LED colors are available, including Mint (a more blue lime) and a 720nm red (if someone wants to experiment with this unique spectrum). I can't mix in Luxeon UV however - those only are in the Z footprint.

 

Some early prototype shots:

 

 

[Reefkid88]

That blue mint led sounds interesting,probably around the blue/cyan spectrum even though you said some where near limeish ? Those are pretty damn small. Would you guys have the time to dabble into custom spectrum is a buyer asks,or just staying with the stock line up ?

[theatrus]

Happy to dabble with custom spectrum

 

The Mint is the Lime phosphor with more base-LED leaking through. The base LED is around a 440nm LED and has more of a violet tail.

 

See Page 7: http://www.lumileds.com/uploads/571/DS144-pdf, the light pink line.

 

In my above picture, the Mint is the bottom left LED, a Royal Blue is directly above it.

[HM3105]

Happy to dabble with custom spectrum

 

The Mint is the Lime phosphor with more base-LED leaking through. The base LED is around a 440nm LED and has more of a violet tail.

 

See Page 7: http://www.lumileds.com/uploads/571/DS144-pdf, the light pink line.

 

In my above picture, the Mint is the bottom left LED, a Royal Blue is directly above it.

 

So random question, I noticed you offer the Ledil Brooke 50 degree to go with these, I was just curious if the Brooke 86 degree might also work?

[theatrus]

 

So random question, I noticed you offer the Ledil Brooke 50 degree to go with these, I was just curious if the Brooke 86 degree might also work?

 

While I haven't confirmed fitting, it should work just fine. The Brooke-XW is basically the Brooke-W without the metalized coating and just white plastic.

[HM3105]

 

While I haven't confirmed fitting, it should work just fine. The Brooke-XW is basically the Brooke-W without the metalized coating and just white plastic.

 

sorry one more question, the PAR maps above, are those running at 1A?

[theatrus]

The PAR maps were taken at full power (1A). In the normal range of the LED (350mA to 1A) I would not expect the distribution to change.

[tarunteam]

On 8/11/2016 at 11:45 PM, theatrus said:

The PAR maps were taken at full power (1A). In the normal range of the LED (350mA to 1A) I would not expect the distribution to change.

How many would you say for a Fusion 20? Do you have comparison shots between yours, nanobox, and other brands? I

[sprite]

Maybe this helps

 

https://blueacro.com/diyhelp/howmany